Black Rocks (Derbyshire)
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Black Rocks (Derbyshire)
Black Rocks (or Stonnis Rocks), is a small outcrop of Roaches Grit, ashover gritstone, between Cromford and Wirksworth in Derbyshire, the Peak District, England. It is an important crag in the history of British rock climbing, and has some of the most extreme climbing routes in Britain, including ''Gaia'' Grade (climbing)#British, E8 6c. Climbing history The crag has been a well-known traditional climbing venue since the 1890s, and features in the early 1913 guidebook, ''Some Gritstone Climbs''. Black Rocks has some easier traditional climbing routes of grades Grade (climbing)#British, Diff to VS 4c, and a selection of short bouldering problems of grades to , however, it is most noted for its historic extreme traditional climbing routes put up in the mid-1980s to the early 2000s. Its northerly aspect means that it is frequently in damp condition (and even covered in green algae), however, the sandstone-like gritstone rock dries reasonably quickly. Important names in British cli ...
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Grade (climbing)
Many climbing routes have grades for the technical difficulty, and in some cases for the risks, of the route. The first ascent, first ascensionist can suggest a grade but it will be amended for the ''consensus view'' of subsequent ascents. While many countries with a tradition of climbing developed their own grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, and which has led to the standardization of grading worldwide. Over the years, grades have List of grade milestones in rock climbing, consistently risen in all forms of climbing, helped by improvements in climbing technique and climbing equipment, equipment. In free climbing (i.e. climbing rock routes with no aid), the most popular grading systems are the French numerical or sport system (e.g. f7c+), the American YDS system (e.g. 5.13a), and latterly the UIAA scale (e.g. IX+). These systems grade technical difficulty being the main focus of the lower-risk a ...
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Fred Pigott
Alfred Sefton "Fred" Pigott (1895 – 28 July 1979) was a leading English rock climber of the 1920s and 1930s. Personal life Fred Pigott attended Manchester Grammar School and in World War I joined the Royal Fusiliers. While serving as a sniper, he received a gangrenous wound that deformed his hand and caused his discharge from the army. He became a sugar merchant in Stockport and had two sons, Geoffrey and Hugh, with his wife Frances. Climbing Pigott climbed extensively with Morley Wood, mostly leading. They pioneered many routes in the Peak District including Stanage Edge and The Roaches and he later moved to mountains including new routes at Glen Coe, Ben Nevis, the Inaccessible Pinnacle and the 3rd ascent of the central buttress of Scafell in 1923. ''Pigott's Climb'' (VS, 5a, 1924) on the East Buttress of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu set new standards for exposure. Jack Longland wrote 'it was impossible to ruffle him or to imagine him flustered, much less frightened'. Pigott was a m ...
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Big UP Productions
Big UP Productions is an American film production company based in New York City who are particularly known for work in the area of rock climbing. The company is led by Josh Lowell, and films include titles such as: ''Rampage'' (1999), ''Dosage Volume 1'' (2001), ''Pilgrimage'' (2003), ''Dosage Volume 2'' (2004), ''Dosage Volume 3'' (2005), and ''King Lines'' (2007). Rock climbers profiled in Big UP Production films included leading names such as: Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, and Tim Emmett. In 2006, Big UP Productions and Sender Films received a Sports Emmy for "Outstanding Camera Work" for their work filming American climber Chris Sharma's first ascent of deep-water soloing route '' Es Pontàs'', in Mallorca Spain Spain, or the Kingdom of Spain, is a country in Southern Europe, Southern and Western Europe with territories in North Africa. Featuring the Punta de Tarifa, southernmost point of continental Europe, it is the largest country in Southern Eur ...; it was pa ...
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Crux (climbing)
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook: The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. A B C D E F G ...
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The Guardian
''The Guardian'' is a British daily newspaper. It was founded in Manchester in 1821 as ''The Manchester Guardian'' and changed its name in 1959, followed by a move to London. Along with its sister paper, ''The Guardian Weekly'', ''The Guardian'' is part of the Guardian Media Group, owned by the Scott Trust Limited. The trust was created in 1936 to "secure the financial and editorial independence of ''The Guardian'' in perpetuity and to safeguard the journalistic freedom and liberal values of ''The Guardian'' free from commercial or political interference". The trust was converted into a limited company in 2008, with a constitution written so as to maintain for ''The Guardian'' the same protections as were built into the structure of the Scott Trust by its creators. Profits are reinvested in its journalism rather than distributed to owners or shareholders. It is considered a newspaper of record in the UK. The editor-in-chief Katharine Viner succeeded Alan Rusbridger in 2015. S ...
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Glossary Of Climbing Terms
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook: The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. A B C D E F G ...
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Free Solo
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs Solo climbing, solo (or alone) without Climbing rope, ropes or other Rock climbing equipment#Protection devices, protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their liquid chalk, climbing chalk. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and, unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can be fatal. Though many climbers have free soloed Grade (climbing), climbing grades they are very comfortable on, only a tiny group free solo regularly, and at grades closer to the limit of their abilities. Some climbers' profiles have been increased by free soloing (e.g. Alex Honnold and John Bachar), but others question the ethics of this, and whether the risks they are undertaking should be encouraged and commercially rewarded. "Free solo" was originally a term of climber slang, but after the popularity of the 2018 Academy Awards, Os ...
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Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his Free solo climbing, free solo ascents of Big wall climbing, big walls. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a full route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park (via the 2,900-foot route ''Freerider (climb), Freerider'' at Grade (climbing)#American YDS grade, 5.13a, the List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Free-soloed, first-ever big wall free solo ascent at that grade), a climb described in ''The New York Times'' as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever." In 2015, he won a Piolet d'Or in alpine climbing with Tommy Caldwell for their completion of the enchainment (known as the ''Fitz Traverse'') of the Fitz Roy, Cerro Chaltén Group (or Fitzroy Group) in Patagonia over 5 days. Honnold is the author (with David Roberts (climber), David Roberts) of the memoir ''Alone on the Wall'' (2015) and the subject of the 2018 biographical docu ...
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Kevin Jorgeson
Kevin Jorgeson (born October 7, 1984) is an American rock climber. In 2015, with Tommy Caldwell, he successfully completed the first-ever free climb of '' The Dawn Wall'' on the southeast face of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. Biography Jorgeson was born to Eric and Gaelena Jorgeson. His father was an employee of the Santa Rosa Parks and Recreation Department, and helped to instill Kevin and his younger brother Matt with a love of the outdoors, and encouraged an 11-year-old Kevin to pursue climbing when an indoor climbing facility opened in the city. He began competing in international climbing contests at 16. Jorgeson is known for being able to free climb, using no equipment other than gear to protect from falling, and is well known for being able to high ball large boulders. He graduated from Maria Carrillo High School in 2003, and has returned to speak there various times. After high school, he went to the University of California Berkeley to study civil engineerin ...
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Lisa Rands
Lisa Rands (born October 21, 1975) is an American rock climber. She is known for her bouldering for which in 2002, she became the first American female to win IFSC World Cup bouldering competitions, and topped the IFSC world boulder rankings in 2002. Rands was the first American female to climb boulders of grade , and , and was the second-ever female in history to climb a boulder. As well as making first female ascents (FFAs) of boulders such as '' The Mandala'' , Rands was the first female in history to do an E8-graded traditional climbing route, ''The End of the Affair'' (E8 6c). Early life Rands was born in Southern California in 1975, where she grew up. She described herself as a "tomboy" in high school, where she initially focused on athletics and gymnastics, however, in her junior year, a boyfriend introduced her to climbing and bouldering. Rands went on to study geology at California State Polytechnic University, and after moving to Colorado for a new job after ...
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Hard Grit
''Hard Grit'' is a 1998 British rock climbing film directed by Richard Heap and produced by Slackjaw Film, featuring traditional climbing, free soloing, and bouldering on gritstone routes in the Peak District in Northern England. It is considered an important film in the genre and regarded as a historic and iconic film. The film starts with a dramatic fall by French climber Jean–Minh Trinh-Thieu on ''Gaia'' at Black Rocks. Hard Grit won ten international film festival awards. Content The film dramatically opens with French climber Jean–Minh Trinh-Thieu taking a large fall from the top of the Johnny Dawes's gritstone test-piece, ''Gaia'' ( E8 6c) at Black Rocks, from which Trinh-Thieu broke his leg. ''Rock & Ice'' called it "the most iconic rock climbing whipper allof all time". Shortly after the opening, film narrator Niall Grimes gives a brief and humorous overview of the history of gritstone climbing. As well as traditional climbing routes, the film also includes ascen ...
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Rock & Ice
''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became equal partners in September of that year. The magazine was bought out within the first year by George Bracksieck, who remained publisher and editor until the end of December 1997. His company, Eldorado Publishing, sold Rock & Ice to North-South Publications, an investment group led by Dougald MacDonald. After a few years, it was sold to Big Stone. The magazine is published eight times a year. It was headquartered in Boulder, Colorado until 2002, when it moved to Carbondale, Colorado. Rock & Ice was purchased by Outside in 2021. The cover of the first issue featured Alex Lowe climbing the first ascent In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documente ...
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