Kevin Jorgeson (born October 7, 1984) is an American
rock climber
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in guidebooks, and ...
. In 2015, with
Tommy Caldwell
Tommy Caldwell (born August 11, 1978) is an American rock climber who has set records in sport climbing, traditional climbing, and in big-wall climbing. Caldwell made the first free ascents of several major routes on El Capitan in Yosemite Na ...
, he successfully completed the first-ever
free climb of ''
The Dawn Wall'' on the southeast face of
El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...
in
Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a List of national parks of the United States, national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The p ...
.
Biography
Jorgeson was born to Eric and Gaelena Jorgeson. His father was an employee of the Santa Rosa Parks and Recreation Department, and helped to instill Kevin and his younger brother Matt with a love of the outdoors, and encouraged an 11-year-old Kevin to pursue climbing when an indoor climbing facility opened in the city.
He began competing in international climbing contests at 16.
Jorgeson is known for being able to
free climb, using no equipment other than gear to protect from falling, and is well known for being able to
high ball large boulders.
He graduated from
Maria Carrillo High School in 2003, and has returned to speak there various times. After high school, he went to the
University of California Berkeley
The University of California, Berkeley (UC Berkeley, Berkeley, Cal, or California), is a public land-grant research university in Berkeley, California, United States. Founded in 1868 and named after the Anglo-Irish philosopher George Berkeley ...
to study
civil engineering
Civil engineering is a regulation and licensure in engineering, professional engineering discipline that deals with the design, construction, and maintenance of the physical and naturally built environment, including public works such as roads ...
, but he continued his passion of
rock climbing
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending climbing routes, routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in c ...
.
Jorgeson and his climbing partner
Tommy Caldwell
Tommy Caldwell (born August 11, 1978) is an American rock climber who has set records in sport climbing, traditional climbing, and in big-wall climbing. Caldwell made the first free ascents of several major routes on El Capitan in Yosemite Na ...
were the first two climbers to successfully complete a free climb of ''The Dawn Wall'' on the southeast face of
El Capitan
El Capitan (; ) is a vertical Rock formations in the United States, rock formation in Yosemite National Park, on the north side of Yosemite Valley, near its western end. The El Capitan Granite, granite monolith is about from base to summit alo ...
in
Yosemite National Park
Yosemite National Park ( ) is a List of national parks of the United States, national park of the United States in California. It is bordered on the southeast by Sierra National Forest and on the northwest by Stanislaus National Forest. The p ...
, completing the 3,000 ft climb between December 28, 2014, and January 14, 2015. ''The Dawn Wall'' is one of the most difficult big-wall climbs in the world, with multiple pitches rated 5.14 in the
Yosemite Decimal System
The Yosemite Decimal System (YDS) is a five-part Grade (climbing), grading system used for rating the difficulty of rock climbing climbing routes, routes in the United States and Canada. It was first devised by members of the Sierra Club in Southe ...
. The climb had been planned since shortly after the release of the documentary film ''Progression'' in 2009, in which Caldwell, who had previously free climbed other, easier routes on El Capitan, surveyed the Dawn Wall to consider if it was possible to free climb. Jorgeson wrote to Caldwell after seeing the film, and the two men began to plan out and practice for the ascent.
''
The Dawn Wall'', a documentary following Jorgeson and Caldwell on their free climb of ''The Dawn Wall'', was released on September 19, 2018. The documentary was directed by Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer.
Kevin Jorgeson is sponsored by
Adidas
Adidas AG (; stylized in all lowercase since 1949) is a German athletic apparel and footwear corporation headquartered in Herzogenaurach, Bavaria, Germany. It is the largest sportswear manufacturer in Europe, and the second largest in the ...
and
Five Ten.
As of July 2019, Jorgeson was working toward opening a new climbing facility called Session, in
Sonoma County, California
Sonoma County ( ) is a county located in the U.S. state of California. As of the 2020 United States census, its population was 488,863. Its seat of government and largest city is Santa Rosa.
Sonoma County comprises the Santa Rosa-Petaluma ...
. The project broke ground in 2018.
He is also a cofounder of 1Climb, an organization focused on introducing children to climbing.
In addition to climbing, Jorgeson performs as a keynote speaker for various corporate events, such as for
The Gap,
Samsung
Samsung Group (; stylised as SΛMSUNG) is a South Korean Multinational corporation, multinational manufacturing Conglomerate (company), conglomerate headquartered in the Samsung Town office complex in Seoul. The group consists of numerous a ...
, and
Alcon Laboratories.
See also
*
History of rock climbing
In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, Pitch (climbing), single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing, big wall (and multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch) climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-ce ...
*
List of first ascents (sport climbing)
In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint (climbing), redpoint, onsight or flash (climbing), flash of a pitch (ascent/descent), single-pitch, multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch or bouldering, bouldering climbing route that ...
References
External links
*
IMDb
{{DEFAULTSORT:Jorgeson, Kevin
1984 births
American rock climbers
Living people
People from Santa Rosa, California
Sportspeople from California