Notable First Free Ascents

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch or bouldering climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting — the ascent must thus be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated overall grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional-climbing, free-solo-climbing, onsighted & flashed-ascents, are also listed.

A climbing route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated it to establish a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, '' Realization'' was considered the world's first , however, the first repeat of the 1996 route ', which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first . ''Open Air'' has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas ''Realization'' has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Thus, the 2nd to 4th ranked candidates are also recorded.

As of June 2025, the technically hardest single-pitch redpointed route is at the grade of for men and the grade of for women. The technically hardest onsight is at the grade of for men and for women. The technically hardest boulder solved is at the boulder grade of for men and for women. The technically hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of . The technically hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of , and the technically hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at .

Single-pitch routes

Redpointed by men

:

:* ''Silence'' – Flatanger Municipality ( NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route. Is unrepeated (June 2025).

:*' – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to '' Bibliographie'', ''Move'', ''Beyond ntegral', it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Is unrepeated (June 2025).

:* ''B.I.G.'' (also ''Project Big'') – Flatanger Municipality ( NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert who worked on it with Adam Ondra, and after consulting with him, proposed 9c saying it was "definitely harder" than ''Perfecto Mundo'', a "benchmark" 9b+ route. Is unrepeated (June 2025).

:

:*' – Flatanger Municipality ( ) – October 4, 2012 – First-ever 9b+ in history, by Adam Ondra; grade confirmed by Stefano Ghisolfi (2020). Third ascent was by Seb Bouin (2022), who felt a kneebar made the grade closer to (5.15b/c).

:* ''La Dura Dura'' – Oliana ( ESP) – February 7, 2013 – Second-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra; first-ever 9b+ repeat by Chris Sharma (March 23, 2013).

:* ''Vasil Vasil'' – Moravský Kras ( CZE) – December 4, 2013 – Third-ever 9b+, by Adam Ondra. Remains unrepeated (January 2025).

:*''Perfecto Mundo'' – Margalef ( ESP) – May 9, 2018 – Fourth 9b+, by Alexander Megos; repeat by Stefano Ghisolfi (2018), and Jakob Schubert (2019); considered a "benchmark" 9b+ route.

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:* ''Jumbo Love'' – Clark Mountain ( US) – September 11, 2008 – First-ever in history, by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Ethan Pringle (2015), Jonathan Siegrist (2018), and Seb Bouin (2022).
:* ' – Siurana ( ESP) – December 17, 2008 – Second-ever , by Chris Sharma. First-ever 9b repeat by Adam Ondra (2010) (was Ondra's first 9b).
:* ''Neanderthal'' – Santa Linya ( ESP) – December 18, 2009 – Third-ever , by Chris Sharma. Repeated by Jakob Schubert (2018), and Adam Ondra (2019).

:

:* ' – Schleier Waterfall (AUT) – 1996 – First ascent by Alexander Huber, who proposed ; it has only been repeated once in 2008 by Adam Ondra who felt it was , but the breaking of holds means it is uncertain whether Ondra did the same route.
:* ''Mutation'' – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1998 – First ascent by Steve McClure, who graded it . Will Bosi completed the first repeat in October 2021 and suggested the route is , or even harder.
:* '' Realization'' – Céüse (FRA) – July 2001 – First ascent by Chris Sharma. First consensus in history.
:* '' La Rambla'' – Siurana ( ESP) – March 2003 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué. Second consensus in history.

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:* '' Action Directe'' – Frankenjura ( ) – 1991 – First-ever consensus 9a in history, by Wolfgang Güllich, who originally graded it 8c+ (it held back other potential 9as), but it is now the "benchmark" for 9a.
:* ''Om'' – Schleier Waterfall (AUT) – 1992 – Second-ever consensus 9a, by Alexander Huber.
:* ' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1993 – Third-ever consensus 9a, by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Hugh'' – Les Eaux-Claires (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever consensus 9a, by Fred Rouhling.

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:* ''Liquid Ambar'' – Pen Trwyn, (WAL) – May 1990 – First ascent by Jerry Moffatt who graded , but subsequent repeats have regraded it to 8c+.
:* '' Hubble'' – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – June 1990 – Considered first-ever consensus in history, by Ben Moon; later considered a possible first 8c+/9a, or even the first-ever 9a.
:* ''Just Do It'' – Smith Rock ( US) – 1992 – Considered second-ever consensus (after ''Hubble''), by Jean-Baptiste Tribout.
:* ''Super Plafond'' – Volx, (FRA) – 1994 – Considered third-ever consensus , by Jean-Baptiste Tribout.

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:* ' – Frankenjura ( DEU) – 1987 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich.
:* ''Anaïs et le canabis'' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1988 – Second-ever consensus , by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Agincourt'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever consensus , by Ben Moon.
:* ''Maginot Line (Plafond)'' – Volx (FRA) – 1989 – Fourth-ever consensus , by Ben Moon.

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:* ''Punks in the Gym'' – Mount Arapiles ( AUS) – 1985 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich.
:* ''La Rage de Vivre'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Second-ever consensus , by .
:* ''To Bolt or Not to Be'' – Smith Rock ( US) – 1986 – Third-ever consensus , by Jean-Baptiste Tribout.
:* ''Le Minimum'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1986 – Fourth-ever consensus , by .

:

:* ''Kanal im Rücken'' – Frankenjura ( DEU) – 1984 – First-ever consensus in history, by Wolfgang Güllich.
:* ''Les Mains Sales'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Second-ever consensus , by .
:* ''Le fluide enchanté'' – Mouriès (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever consensus , by .
:* ''La Rose et le Vampire'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1985 – Fourth-ever consensus , by .

:*' – Altmühltal ( DEU) – 1983 – First-ever consensus in history, by Jerry Moffatt.
:* ''Le Bidule'' – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever consensus , by .

Pre-sport era

The notable first ascents that set a new highest-grade prior to ''The Face'' were traditional climbing routes:

:*''Grand Illusion'' – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA ( US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus in history, by Tony Yaniro.
:*''Cosmic Debris –'' Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price.
:*''Sphinx Crack –'' South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong.
:*''13 Boulevard du Vol'' – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus , by Arnould t'Kint.

:*''The Phoenix'' – Yosemite, CA ( US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams).
:*''Le Toit'' – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Edlinger.
:*''Le Haine'' – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Berhault.
:*''Chimpanzodrome'' – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.

:*''Psycho Roof'' – Eldorado, CO ( US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975.
:*''The Pirate'' – Suicide Rock, CA – ( US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro.
:*''Iron Cross'' – Shawangunks, NY – ( US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg.
:*''Genesis'' – Eldorado, CO – ( US) – 1979 May – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins.
:*''Nymphodalle'' – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus in history, by Patrick Edlinger.

:*''Paisano Overhang'' – Suicide Rock, ( US) – 1974 – First-ever consensus climbs, by John Long.
:*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks, ( US) – 1974 Oct – Long considered the first-ever consensus by Steve Wunsch.
:*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks, ( US) – 1977 – First-ever repeat of a consensus , by Ron Kauk.

:*''English Hanging Gardens'' – Big Rock, Lake Perris, California, ( US) – 1970 – Regraded as possible first in history, by John Gosling.
:*''Kansas City'' – Shawangunks, NY ( US) – 1973 – One of the first-ever 5.12b/c climbs in history, by John Bragg.
:*''Constable's Overhang'' – Wilton, (ENG) – 1973 – Possible early 7b (5.12b), as is graded "hard" E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.
:*''Fish Crack'' – Yosemite ( US) – 1975 May – One of the first-ever climbs in history, by Henry Barber.

:*''Thimble'' – Needles, SD, ( US) – 1961 – First-ever in history, by John Gill. Free soloed.
:*''Macabre Roof –'' Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe.
:*''Orchrist'' – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.
:*''The Throne'' – Shawangunks, NY ( US) – 1973 – Very early climb, led by John Stannard.

:*''Goliath'' – Burbage South Edge, (ENG) – 1958 – Possible first-ever at E4 6a (6c+ to 7a), by Don Whillans.
:*''Foops'' – Shawangunks, NY ( US) – 1967 October – Often considered a first-ever consensus , by John Stannard.
:*''Messner Slab'' – Pilastro di Mezzo, Sas dla Crusc/ Heiligkreuzkofel, ( ITA) – 1968 July – Contemporary re-grading implies it may be a very early , led on sight by Reinhold Messner.
:*''Schwager Nordwand'' – Schrammsteine, Saxon Switzerland, ( DEU) – 1970 – Considered a notable early IXb, by Bernd Arnold.

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:* ''Demon Rib'' – Black Rocks (ENG) – May 13, 1949 – Sometimes considered the first-ever lead at 6c (E3 5c) by Peter Harding.
:* ''Schwager Talweg'' – Schrammsteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – August 31, 1952 – Even with shoulder stands at all three cruxes, 6c (Saxon VIIIc) free climbing was led by Harry Rost.

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:* ''Suicide Wall, Route 1'' – Idwal Slabs Ogwyn Valley (WAL) –1945 – One of the first-ever 6b+ (E2 5c, 5.10d) leads by Chris Preston.
:* ''Rebitsch-Spiegl'' (Pitch Two) – Fleischbank Wilder Kaiser (AUT) – June 20 1946 – Early 6b+ (UIAA VII) lead by Mathias Rebitsch.

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:* ''Rostkante'' – Hauptwiesenstein Bielatel Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) –1922 – First consensus 6b lead (Saxon VIIIb, UIAA VII) by Hans Rost.

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:* ''Westkante'' – Wilderkopf Affensteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – 1918 – Usually considered the first-ever 6a+ climb (Saxon VIIIa) by Emanuel Strubich.

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:* ''Perrykante'' – Spannagelturm, Bielatel, Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – June 1, 1906 – Often considered the first-ever 5b, even with two shoulder stands (Saxon VIIb then, harder if redpointed), by Oliver Perry Smith.
:* ''Alter Weg'' – Teufelsturm Schmilka Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – Sept 1, 1906 – Likely the second-ever 5b, utilizing one shoulder stand at Saxon VIIb, harder if done all free, by Oliver Perry Smith.

Redpointed by women

:* ''Excalibur'' – Arco, Trentino ( ITA) – April 5, 2025 – First-ever female ascent of a 9b+ route, by Brooke Raboutou.

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:* ''La Planta de Shiva'' – Villanueva del Rosario ( ESP) – October 22, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9b route, by Angela Eiter. Repeated by Anak Verhoeven in 2024, making her only the fourth-ever female to redpoint a 9b route.
:* ''Eagle–4'' – Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FRA) – November 7, 2020 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9b, by Julia Chanourdie.
:* ''Madame Ching'' – Tyrol (AUT) – December 16, 2020 – Third female 9b and first-ever female FFA of a 9b, by Angela Eiter. Remains unrepeated (January 2025).
:* ''Erebor'' – Eremo di San Paolo, Arco ( ITA) – October 2, 2021 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9b (downgraded from 9b+), by Laura Rogora.

:

:* '' La Rambla'' – Siurana ( ESP) – February 26, 2017 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes.
:* ''Sweet neuf'' – Pierrot Beach (FRA) – September 11, 2017 – Second-ever female ascent, and first-ever female FFA of a 9a+, by Anak Verhoeven. Confirmed by (2019).
:* '' Realization'' – Céüse (FRA) – September 24, 2017 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes.
:* ''Papichulo'' – Oliana ( ESP) – March 22, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a+ route, by Margo Hayes.

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:* ''Bimbaluna'' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – 1 May 2005 – World's first-ever female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Open your Mind direct'' – Santa Linya ( ESP) 17 March 2015 – Second female ascent of a 9a/9a+ route, by Ashima Shiraishi.

:

:*' – Saint Loup ( SUI) – October 29, 2002 – First-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Logical Progression'' – Jo Yama ( JPN) – November, 2004 – Second-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Les 3 P'' – La grotte du Galetas, Verdon Gorge (FRA) – August, 2011 – Third-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by ; initially disputed, later verified.
:* ''PuntX'' – Gorges du Loup, (FRA) – November, 2013 – Fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a route, by Muriel Sarkany.

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:* ''Honky Tonk Mix'' – Onate ( ESP) – June, 2000 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Noia'' – Andonno ( ITA) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Na Nai'' – Baltzola (ESP) – June 18, 2003 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Powerade'' – Vadiello (ESP) – May 21, 2007 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c+ route, by Josune Bereziartu.

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:* ''Honky Tonky'' – Onate ( ESP) – May, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''White Zombie'' – Baltzola ( ESP) – May, 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Raz'' – Baltzola ( ESP) – May, 1999 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.
:* ''Welcome to Tijuana'' – Rodellar ( ESP) – May, 2000 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8c route, by Josune Bereziartu.

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:* ''Masse Critique'' – Cimai (FRA) – 1990 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b+ route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''No Sika, No Crime'' – Lehn ( CHF) – 1993 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Suzi Good.
:* ''Silence Vertical'' – Troubat (FRA) – 1993 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Robyn Erbesfield.
:* ''Attention on vous regarde'' – Saint-Antonin-Noble-Val (FRA) – 1993 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Robyn Erbesfield.

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:* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Isabelle Patissier.
:* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Sortilèges'' – Le Cimai (FRA) – 1989 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8b route, by .

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:* ''Choucas'' – Buoux (FRA) – March 1988 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a+ route, by Catherine Destivelle.

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:* ''Come Back'' – Val San Nicolò ( ITA) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by .
:* ''Rêve de Papillon'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by .
:* ''Rêve de Papillon'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Rêve de Papillon'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1988 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Catherine Destivelle.

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:* ''Fleur de Rocaille'' – Mouriès, (FRA) – 1985 – First-ever female ascent of an 7c+/8a route, by Catherine Destivelle; was first 8a, but grade softened.

Pre-sport era

The notable first female ascents that set a new highest-grade pre ''Fleur de Rocaille'' were traditional climbing routes:

:
:* ''Vandals'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( US) – 1984 – First-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Artificial Intelligence'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( US) – 1985 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Chimpanzodrome'' – Le Saussois (FRA) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c+ route, by .

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:* ''Ophir Broke'' – Telluride ( US) – 1979 – First free ascent and first-ever female lead of a 7c route (subsequently upgraded), by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Organic Iron'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( US) – 1984 – Second-ever female ascent of a 7c route (was considered first), by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Katapult'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1985 – Third-ever female ascent of a 7c route, by Isabelle Patissier.

:

:* ''Super Crack'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( US) – 1983 July – Early female ascent of a 7b+ route, by Barbara Devine.
:* ''Yellow Crack Variation'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( US) – 1984 – Early female ascent of a 7b+ route, by Lynn Hill.
:* ''Pichenibule (en libre)'' – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1985 – First free ascent and early female lead of a 7b+ route, by Catherine Destivelle.

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:*''Kansas City'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( US) – 1977 – Early female ascent of a 7b route, by Barbara Devine.
:*''Tales of Power'' – Yosemite Valley CA (US) – 1981 – Redpoint of a 7b route by Louise Shepherd

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:*''Foops'' – Shawangunk Mountains ( US) – 1976 – Early female ascent of a 7a route, by Barbara Devine.

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

:

:* ''Super Crackinette'' – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra.

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:* ''Southern Smoke Direct'' – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra.
:* ''Estado Critico'' – Siurana ( ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos.
:* ''Cabane au Canada'' – Rawyl ( SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.
:* ''Il Domani'' – Baltzola ( ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.

:

:*''Bizi Euskaraz'' – Etxauri ( ESP) – December 11, 2007 – First-ever 8c+ onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga.
:* ''Kidetasunaren Balio Erantsia'' – Etxauri ( ESP) – March 6, 2011 – Second-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.
:*''Bizi Euskaraz'' – Etxauri ( ESP) – March 7, 2011 – Third-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.
:* ''Powerade'' – Vadiello (La Caverna) ( ESP) – March 9, 2011 – Fourth-ever 8c+ onsight, by Adam Ondra.

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:* ''White Zombie'' – Baltzola ( ESP) – October 6, 2004 – First-ever 8c onsight, by Yuji Hirayama.
:* ''Pata Negra'' – Rodellar ( ESP) – August 10, 2005 – Second-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek.
:* ''Gaua'' – Lezaia ( ESP) – October 10, 2005 – Third-ever 8c onsight, by Patxi Usobiaga.
:* ''La Teoria Dell'8a'' – Grotta dell'Aeronauta ( ITA) – November 23, 2005 – Fourth-ever 8c onsight, by Tomáš Mrázek.

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:*''Massey Fergusson'' – Calanques (FRA) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by .
:*''Maldita María'' – Cuenca ( ESP) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by .

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:*''Liaisons Dangereuses'' – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by
:*''Public Enemy'' – Cuenca, ( ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b.

:

:(unknown)

:

:*''Samizdat'' – Cimai (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by .

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:*''Pol Pot'' – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – 1984 – First-ever 7c+ onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.
:*''The Phoenix'' – Yosemite (FRA) – 1984 – Second-ever 7c+ onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.
:*''Yesterday Direct'' – Mount Arapiles ( AUS) – 1985 – Third-ever 7c+ (Australia 28) onsight, by Wolfgang Güllich.

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:*''Equinox'' – Joshua Tree ( US) – 1982 – First-ever 7c flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt (originally considered 7b+).
:*''La Polka des Ringards'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1982 – First-ever 7c onsight, by Patrick Edlinger.
:*''Heisse Finger'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1983 – Second-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.
:*''Chasin' the Trane'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1983 – Third-ever 7c onsight, by Jerry Moffatt.

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:*''Super Crack'' – Shawangunks ( US) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ flash (not onsight), by Jerry Moffatt.
:*''Captain crochet'' – Buoux (FRA) – 1982 – First-ever 7b+ onsight, by Patrick Edlinger.

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

:

:* ''La Fabelita -–'' Santa Linya ( ESP) – December 31, 2015 – First-ever female 8c flash, by Janja Garnbret (her flash of ''Rollito Sharma'' two days earlier was downgraded to 8b+).
:*''Fish eye'' – Oliana ( ESP) – November 1, 2021 – First-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret
:*''American Hustle'' – Oliana ( ESP) – November 4, 2021 – Second-ever female 8c onsight, by Janja Garnbret
:*''L'Antagonista'' – Montsant ( ESP) – November 25, 2022 – Third-ever female (and the second female) 8c onsight, by Chaehyun Seo.

:

:*''Hidrofobia'' – Montsant ( ESP) – April, 2006 – First-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu (later considered possible 8b).
:*''Humildes pa casa'' – Oliana ( ESP) – April, 2010 – Second-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Maja Vidmar (later considered possible 8b+/c).
:*''Les Rois du Pétrole'' – Pic Saint-Loup (FRA) – July, 2010 – Third-ever female 8b+ onsight, by (once considered the first 8c, but the route was downgraded).
:*''Omaha Beach'' – Red River Gorge ( US) – March, 2011 – Fourth-ever female 8b+ onsight, by Sasha Digiulian.

:

:*''Steroid Performance'' – Horai ( JPN) – December, 2004 – First-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
:*''Il Veccho et il Mare'' – Millennium Cave, Sardinia ( ITA) – July, 2005 – Second-ever female 8b onsight, by .
:*''La Réserve'' – Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux, (FRA) – October, 2005 – Third-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
:*''Fuente de Energia'' – La Caverna, Vadiello ( ESP) – November, 2005 – Fourth-ever female 8b onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.

:

:*''Bon Vintage'' – Terradets ( ESP) – April, 2000 – First-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
:*''Naska'' – Apellániz ( ESP) – October, 2001 – Second-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.
:*''Déversé Satanique'' – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – October, 2001 – Third-ever female 8a+ onsight, by Josune Bereziartu.

:

:*''Overdose'' – Lourmarin (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever female 8a/+ onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield.
:*''Simon'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1992 – First-ever female 8a onsight, by Lynn Hill.
:*''Rampaneu'' – Frankenjura ( GER) – 1992 – Second-ever female 8a onsight, by Robyn Erbesfield.

Free-solo by men

:
:* ''Panem et Circenses'' – Length: – Arco ( IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.

:
:* ''Kommunist'' – Length: – Tyrol (AUT) – 2004 – The first-ever 8b+ free solo, by Alexander Huber.
:* ''Darwin Dixit'' – Length: – Margalef ( ESP) – March 2008 – Originally 8c, but downgraded to 8b+, by Dave MacLeod.

:

:* ''Compilation'' – Omblèze (FRA) – 1993– First-ever 8b free solo, by Alain Robert.
:* ''Der Opportunist'' – Schleierfall (AUT) – 2003 – Second-ever 8b free solo, by Alexander Huber.

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:* ''Rêve de gosse'' – La Roche-des-Arnauds (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a+ free solo, by Jean-Christophe Lafaille.

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:* ''Revelations'' – Length: 15 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by .

:* ''Weed Killer'' – Length: 8 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1986 – First-ever 7c free solo, by Wolfgang Güllich.

:* ''Baby Apes'' – Length: 15 meters – Joshua Tree National Park ( US) – 1982 – First-ever 7b free solo, by John Bachar.
:* ''Mickey's Beach Crack'' – Length: 18 meters – Mickey's Beach, San Francisco, CA (US) – 1983 – 7b free solo by Dan Goodwin.

:*''Thimble'' – Length: 9 meters – Needles, SD, ( US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ free solo by John Gill.Ament, Pat (2002). ''Wizards of Rock: A History of Free Climbing in America'', Wilderness Press

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:* ''Spider Line'' – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First-ever free solo at 7a by John Yablonski.

:

:* ''Wall of Horrors'' – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First-ever free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin.
:* ''Slip N Slide'' – Length: 8 meters – Peak District, (ENG) – 1976 – First-ever free solo at E6 6a by Ron Fawcett.

:

:* ''Western Front'' – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff (ENG) – July 9,1958 – One of the first-ever free solos at E3 5c, unrehearsed, by Allan Austin.

Boulder problems

Solved by men

:

:*''Burden of Dreams'' – Lappnor ( ) – October 2016 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival; confirmed by Will Bosi in April 2023.

:* ''Return of the Sleepwalker'' – Red Rock Canyon ( US) – April 2021 – First ascent by Daniel Woods; a sit start into Jimmy Webb's ''Sleepwalker'' ; confirmed by Will Bosi in February 2024.

:* '' Alphane'' – Chironico ( SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou, and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on ''Burden of Dreams''. William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of ''Honey Badger'' 8C+, later felt it was still at .

:* ''Megatron'' – Eldorado Canyon State Park ( US) – 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou. The route adds a seven-move sequence from a sit start into ''Tron'', an route first ascended by Daniel Woods.

:

:*' – Varazze ( ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever , by Christian Core. First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with ''Terranova'' (see below). Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade. In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade. In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).

:*''Livin' Large'' – Rocklands ( ZAF) – August 2009 – First ascent by Nalle Hukkataival who graded it , and first repeat in 2015 Jimmy Webb who confirmed an 8C; however, a second and third repeat by Shawn Raboutou (2018) and Ryuichi Murai (2023), suggests it is one of the first-ever boulders.

:* ''Hypnotized Minds'' – Rocky Mountain ( US) – October 2010 – Considered one of the first-ever consensus boulders, by Daniel Woods who initially proposed V15; first repeat by (2016), and a second repeat by Dave Graham (2019), confirmed it as V16.

:* ''Terranova'' – Holstejn ( Moravsky Kras, CZE) – November 2011 – Considered an early , by Adam Ondra. Remains unrepeated (January 2025)

:

:*''Monkey Wedding'' – Rocklands ( ZAF) – August 2002 – First-ever consensus in history, by Fred Nicole.
:*''Black Eagle SDS'' – Rocklands ( ZAF) – August 2002 – Second-ever consensus in history, by Fred Nicole.
:*''Viva l'Evolution'' – Tyrol (AUT) – September 2002 – Third-ever consensus in history, by .
:*''Walk Away SDS'' – Lake District, (ENG) – October 2002 – Considered the fourth-ever in history, by John Gaskins. Remains unrepeated (January 2025)

:

:* ''Radja'' – Branson, Valais ( SUI) – January 1996 – First-ever consensus , by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Nanuk'' – Königsee ( GER) – 1997 – After repeated in 2012, considered the second-ever , by Klem Loskot.
:* ''Coeur de Lion'' – Hueco Tanks ( US) – 1998 – Third-ever consensus , by Fred Nicole.

:* ''Dreamtime'' – Cresciano ( SUI) – October 28, 2000 – First ascent by Fred Nicole who proposed it as the world's first , but later settled at ''Dreamtime'' became as iconic as ''Midnight Lightning'' due to its beauty and challenge; a broken hold in 2009 regraded it closer to .

:
:* ''La Danse des Balrogs'' – Branson, Valais, ( SUI) – 1992 – First-ever consensus , by Fred Nicole.
:* ''Enigma'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1992 – Considered the second-ever , by Philippe le Denmatt.
:* ''Fatman'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1993 – Considered important early , by .
:* ''The Dominator'' – Yosemite, ( US) – 1993 – Considered important early , by Jerry Moffatt.

:

:* ''Trice'' – Boulder, Colorado ( US) – 1975 – Ungraded and unrepeated for 32 years, but is now considered the world's first , by Jim Holloway.
:* ''Slapshot'' – Flatirons ( US) – 1977 – Ungraded and unrepeated for years, but considered one of the world's first , by Jim Holloway, and possibly .
:* ''L’à Plat du Gain'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by Alain Ghersen.
:* ''Superman'' – Cressbrook (ENG) – 1988 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by Jerry Moffatt; now a possible 8B.

:
:* ''C’était Demain'' – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1984 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by .
:* ''Careless Torque'' – Stanage Edge (ENG) – 1987 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of an , by Ron Fawcett; now at 8A.

:
:* ''The Groove'' – Pueblo, Colorado ( US) – 1978 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by John Gill.

:
:* ''Red Cross Overhang'', or ''Gill Problem'' – Teton Range ( US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by John Gill.
:* ''Double Clutch –'' Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams.
:* ''Speed of Light Dyno'' – Black Mountains ( US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a , by John Long.
:* ''L'Abbé Résina'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a , by Pierre Richard.

:

:* ''Le Carnage'' – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever ascent of a , by Jérôme Jean-Charles.
:* ''Midnight Lightning'' – Camp 4, Yosemite ( US) – 1978 – Second-ever ascent of a , by Ron Kauk.

:
:* ''Gill Right Problem'' – Teton Range ( US) – 1958 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by John Gill.

:
:* ''Le Joker'' – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1953 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by .

:
:* ''Marie-Rose'' – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1946 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a , by .

Solved by women

:

:* ''The Dark Side'' – Yosemite National Park, ( US) – April 2025 – First-ever female ascent of a consensus , by Katie Lamb.

:
:* ''Box Therapy'' – RMNP, ( US) – 28 July 2023 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Katie Lamb. Originally solved by Daniel Woods in 2018 who graded it , and upheld by repeaters, Brooke Raboutou suggested it was at after repeating it in October 2023.

:
:* ''E la nave va'' – Lindental, ( SUI) – 2003 – First-ever female ascent of an boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu.

:*''Horizon'' – Mount Hiei, ( JPN) – March 22, 2016 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Ashima Shiraishi.
:* ''Sleepy Rave'' – Hollow Mountain Cave, ( AUS) – 2 August 2016 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by Ashima Shiraishi.
:* ''Kryptos'' – Morchelstock, Balsthal, ( SUI) – June, 2018 – Third-ever female ascent of an , by Kaddi Lehmann.
:* ''Byaku-dou'' – Mount Hurai, ( JPN) – May 5, 2019 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an , by Mishka Ishi.

:
:* ''La traversia De Balzola'' – Balzola, ( ESP) – 2002 – First-ever female ascent of an boulder traverse, by Josune Bereziartu.

:* ''Catharsis'' – Shiobara, ( JPN) – 20 October 2012 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Tomoko Ogawa.
:* ''Golden Shadow'' – Rocklands, ( RSA) – 11 July 2014 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by Ashima Shiraishi.
:* ''New Base Line'' – Magic Wood, ( SUI) – 12 July 2014 – Third-ever female ascent of an , by Shauna Coxsey.

:

:* ''The Automator'' – RMNP, ( US) – 17 August 2010 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Angie Payne.
:* ''The Riverbed'' – Magic Wood, ( SUI) – 16 September 2010 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by Anna Stöhr.
:* ''Crow of Aragorn'' – Hueco Tanks, ( US) – 20 March 2012 – Third-ever female ascent of , by Ashima Shiraishi, and youngest (age 10).

:
:* ''Liaison Futile'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 13 April 1999 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Catherine Miquel.
:* ''Atomic Playboy'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 2 March 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of an , by Catherine Miquel.
:* ''Solaris'' – Baltzoia, (SPA) – 15 April 2003 – Third-ever female to ascend a , by Josune Bereziartu.

:
:* ''Duel'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – October, 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Catherine Miquel.
:* ''Berezi'' – Larraona, (SPA) – 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus , by Josune Bereziartu.

:
:* ''Sale gosse assis'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1998 – First-ever female ascent of an , by Catherine Miquel.
:* ''Plain High Drifter'' – The Buttermilks, ( US) – March, 2001 – Second-ever female ascent of a consensus , by Lisa Rands.

:
:* ''Halloween'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1997/96 – First-ever female ascent of a , by Catherine Miquel.
:* ''Le Grande Bleu'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1999 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by Catherine Miquel.

:
:* ''Miss World'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – First-ever female ascent of a , by Catherine Miquel.
:* ''Mayonnaise de Passion'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1996 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by Catherine Miquel.

:
:* ''Le Carnage'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1989 – First-ever female ascent of a , by Catherine Miquel.
:* ''Trois graines d'éternité'' – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1995 – Second-ever female ascent of a , by Dany Riche.
:* ''Midnight Lightning'' – Camp 4, Yosemite, ( US) – 1998 – Notable female ascent of a famous , by Lynn Hill.

Multi-pitch routes

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the ''Salathé Wall'' and ''Dawn Wall''), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

:

:* ''Valhalla'' (405-meters, 14 pitches) – Grand Arch, Getu Valley National Park (CHN) – 4 March 2019 – The world's longest continuous roof climb and the first-ever multi-pitch redpoint at , by .

:

:* ''The Dawn Wall'' (3,000-feet, 32-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 14 January 2015 – First-ever big wall redpoint at , by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 19 days. First repeat on 21 November 2016 by Adam Ondra in 8 days, leading all 32-pitches.

:* ''Wu Wei'' (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at , by Alessandro Zeni.

:

:* ''Lurgorri'' (250-metres, 6-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 13 August 2006 – First-ever multi-pitch redpoint at , by brothers and .

:* ''Nirwana'' (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at , by Alexander Huber.

:

:* ' (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at , by Alexander Huber; repeating the route in 2007 (to create ''Pan Aroma'', also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+.

:* ' (450-metres, 9-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 26 July 2007 – Second-ever big wall redpoint at , by Alexander Huber; shares the first 5 pitches of ''Bellavista'' to the great roof and then follows famous aid climbing route.

:* ' (250-metres, 7-pitches) – Rätikon ( SUI) – 26 July 2008 – Third-ever multi-pitch redpoint at , by a 15-year old Adam Ondra; created by who never fully freed the line.

:* ''Orbayu'' (510-metres, 13-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 2009 – Fourth-ever multi-pitch redpoint at , by brothers and .

:

:* ''Neverending Story'' (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon ( SUI) – 1991 – First multi-pitch at , by .

:* ''The Nose (El Capitan), The Nose'' (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at , by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill led it all in under 24 hours;.

:* After ''The Nose'', the were the next graded multi-pitch routes to be fully freed:
::* ', (250-metres, 9-pitches) – Fleischbank (AUT) – 1994 – Multi-pitch at , by Stefan Glowacz.
::* ' (350-metres, 11-pitches) – Berchtesgaden (GER) – 1994 – Multi-pitch at , by Thomas Huber.
::* ' (185-metres, 6-pitches) – Rätikon (SWZ) – 1993/94 – Multi-pitch at , by .

:

:* ''New Age'' (150-metres, 5-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon ( SUI) – 1989 – First multi-pitch at , by .

:

:* ''Salathé Wall'' (870-metres, 35-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at , by Todd Skinner and Paul Piana (alternating leads). In 1995, Alexander Huber Lead climbing, led all 35-pitches to become the first individual to free a big wall route at the grade.

:

:* ''Via Acacia'' (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon ( SUI) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at , by .

:

:* ''Regular Northwest Face'' (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at Grade (climbing), 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson. 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
:* ''Hall of Mirrors'' (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) –1980 – Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole.
:* ''Amarcord'' (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon ( SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at , by .

Free-soloed

:

:* ''Freerider (climb), Freerider'' (915-meters, 30-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite ( US) – 3 June 2017 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by Alex Honnold; took 3 hours, 56 minutes.

:

:* ' (850-meters, 37-pitches) – Marmolada, Dolomites (Italy) – April 2007 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by Hansjorg Auer; took 2 hours, 55 minutes.
:* ''The Moonlight Buttress'' (364-meters, 10-pitches) – Zion National Park (USA) – 1 April 2008 – Likely the second-ever big wall free solo at , by Alex Honnold; took 83 minutes.

:
:* ''Romantic Warrior'' (305-meters, 9-pitches) – Needles, California (USA) – 2005 – Climbed on sight. First-ever big wall free solo at , by Michael Reardon (climber), Michael Reardon;

:
:* ''Brandler-Hasse Direttissima'' (580-meters, 17-pitches) – Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Cima Grande, Dolomites (Italy) – 2002 – First-ever big wall free solo at , by Alexander Huber.

:
:* ''Naked Edge'' (210-meters, 7-pitches) – Eldorado Canyon State Park (USA) – 1978 – First-ever multi-pitch free solo at 5.11b by Jim Collins.
:* ''Nabisco Wall'' (via ''Butterballs'') (110-meters, 3-pitches) – Yosemite Valley, (USA) – 1979 – First-ever multi-pitch free solo at , by John Bachar.
:* ''Astroman'' (300-meters, 12-pitches) – Yosemite Valley, California, Yosemite Valley, (USA) – 1987 – First-ever Big Wall free solo at 5.11c by Peter Croft.

See also

*History of rock climbing
*Deep-water soloing#Notable ascents and milestones, Notable ascents and grade milestones in deep-water soloing
*Traditional climbing#Hardest routes, Hardest routes in traditional climbing
*Dry-tooling#Evolution of grade milestones, Evolution of grade milestones in dry-tooling
*Mixed climbing#Evolution of grade milestones, Evolution of grade milestones in mixed climbing
*Ice climbing#Evolution of grade milestones, Evolution of grade milestones in ice climbing

Notes

References

Further reading

* Italian climbing website, ''Planet Mountain'', has an excellent chronological list of world-first, single-pitch, male and female, redpoints, onsights, free solos, and boulder problems (1914–2012):
* Czech climbing magazine, ''eMontana'', on men's redpointing milestones from 6a to 9c:
* ''Big Wall Climbing'' Scott, Doug (1974) London, Kay and Ward Ltd. Special:BookSources/0718209672, ISBN 0-7182-09672. A comprehensive history of world Big Wall climbs, both free and aid, 1492 to 1973.

External links

*
*
* "100 Years of Big Wall Free Climbing". Well-researched chronology of world milestones in ''Gripped'' magazine from 2015. https://gripped.com/news/100-years-big-wall-free-climbing/

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