Jimmy Chin
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Jimmy Chin (born October 12, 1973) is an American professional mountain athlete, photographer, skier, film director, and author. Chin has been a professional climber and skier on
The North Face The North Face is an American outdoor recreation products company. The North Face produces outdoor clothing, footwear, and related equipment. Founded in 1968 to supply climbers, the company's logo draws inspiration from Half Dome, a distinct ...
Athlete team for over 20 years. In 2006, Chin achieved the first successful American ski descent from the summit of
Mount Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
with Kit and Rob DesLauriers. Five years later, Chin, Conrad Anker, and Renan Ozturk captured the first ascent of "Shark's Fin", a granite wall on India's Meru Peak. Chin's work documenting expeditions and climbs has been featured in numerous publications, including ''
National Geographic ''National Geographic'' (formerly ''The National Geographic Magazine'', sometimes branded as ''Nat Geo'') is an American monthly magazine published by National Geographic Partners. The magazine was founded in 1888 as a scholarly journal, nine ...
'', ''
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'', '' Vanity Fair'', ''Outside'' magazine and others. In 2019, Chin was awarded the ''National Geographic'' "Photographer's Photographer Award" by his peers. His first book of photography documenting his career in the mountains, ''There and Back'', became a ''New York Times'' Best Seller in 2021. Chin co-directs with his wife
Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi ( ; born ) is an American documentary filmmaker. She was the director, along with her husband, Jimmy Chin, for the film ''Free Solo'', which won the 2019 Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature. The film profiled Ale ...
. Together they directed the documentary ''Meru'', which won numerous awards including the Audience Award at the
Sundance Film Festival The Sundance Film Festival is an annual film festival organized by the Sundance Institute. It is the largest independent film festival in the United States, with 423,234 combined in-person and online viewership in 2023. The festival has acted ...
and was shortlisted for an
Academy Award The Academy Awards, commonly known as the Oscars, are awards for artistic and technical merit in film. They are presented annually by the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences (AMPAS) in the United States in recognition of excellence ...
, and ''
Free Solo Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs Solo climbing, solo (or alone) without Climbing rope, ropes or other Rock climbing equipment#Protection devices, protective equipmen ...
'', which won an
Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature The Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature Film is an award for documentary films. In 1941, the first awards for feature-length documentaries were bestowed as Academy Honorary Award, Special Awards to ''Kukan'' and ''Target for Tonight''. The ...
, a
BAFTA The British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA, ) is an independent trade association and charity that supports, develops, and promotes the arts of film, television and video games in the United Kingdom. In addition to its annual awa ...
and seven
Primetime Emmys The Primetime Emmy Awards, or Primetime Emmys, are part of the extensive range of Emmy Awards for artistic and technical merit for the American television industry. Owned and operated by the Academy of Television Arts & Sciences (ATAS), the P ...
. ''Free Solo'' had the highest-grossing opening weekend in history for a documentary. The film eventually grossed $29 million in the box office. Chin and Chai's 2021 documentary, '' The Rescue'', chronicles the Tham Luang cave rescue. ''The Rescue'' won numerous awards, including the People's Choice Award at
Toronto International Film Festival The Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF, often stylized as tiff) is one of the most prestigious and largest publicly attended film festivals in the world. Founded in 1976, the festival takes place every year in early September. The organi ...
, and was also shortlisted for an Academy Award. In 2022, they released their documentary '' Return to Space'' about
Elon Musk Elon Reeve Musk ( ; born June 28, 1971) is a businessman. He is known for his leadership of Tesla, SpaceX, X (formerly Twitter), and the Department of Government Efficiency (DOGE). Musk has been considered the wealthiest person in th ...
and
SpaceX Space Exploration Technologies Corp., commonly referred to as SpaceX, is an America, American space technology company headquartered at the SpaceX Starbase, Starbase development site in Starbase, Texas. Since its founding in 2002, the compa ...
. Their first scripted feature '' Nyad'', about
Diana Nyad Diana Nyad (née Sneed; born August 22, 1949) is an American author, journalist, motivational speaker, and long-distance swimming, long-distance swimmer. Nyad gained national attention in 1975 when she swam around Manhattan () in record time. ...
's historic swim from Cuba to Florida, starred
Annette Bening Annette Carol Bening (born May 29, 1958) is an American actress. With a career spanning over four decades, she is known for List of Annette Bening performances, her versatile work across screen and stage. Bening has received List of awards an ...
and
Jodie Foster Alicia Christian "Jodie" Foster (born November 19, 1962) is an American actress and filmmaker. Foster started her career as a child actor before establishing herself as leading actress in film. She has received List of awards and nominations re ...
and premiered in 2023.


Climbing career

From 1999 to 2001, Chin organized climbing expeditions to
Pakistan Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of over 241.5 million, having the Islam by country# ...
's
Karakoram Mountains The Karakoram () is a mountain range in the Kashmir region spanning the border of Pakistan, China, and India, with the northwestern extremity of the range extending to Afghanistan and Tajikistan. Most of the Karakoram mountain range is withi ...
. He signed a sponsorship agreement with
The North Face The North Face is an American outdoor recreation products company. The North Face produces outdoor clothing, footwear, and related equipment. Founded in 1968 to supply climbers, the company's logo draws inspiration from Half Dome, a distinct ...
in 2001. In 2002, he was asked to join a ''
National Geographic ''National Geographic'' (formerly ''The National Geographic Magazine'', sometimes branded as ''Nat Geo'') is an American monthly magazine published by National Geographic Partners. The magazine was founded in 1888 as a scholarly journal, nine ...
'' expedition to make an unsupported crossing of the remote Chang Tang Plateau in Tibet with
Galen Rowell Galen Avery Rowell (August 23, 1940 – August 11, 2002) was an American wilderness photographer, adventure photojournalist and mountaineer. Born in Oakland, California, he became a full-time photographer in 1972. Early life and education Rowe ...
, Rick Ridgeway and Conrad Anker. The expedition was featured in ''National Geographic''s April 2003 issue and documented in Rick Ridgeway's book ''The Big Open''. In 2003, Chin headed to Everest with Stephen Koch. They attempted the direct North Face via the Japanese Couloir to the Hornbein Couloir in alpine style (eschewing supplemental oxygen, fixed ropes, and camps). They were unsuccessful and both were nearly killed in an avalanche. In May 2004, Chin climbed Everest with David Breashears and Ed Viesturs while filming for
Working Title A working title is a preliminary name for a product or project. The usage is especially common in film and TV, gaming, music and publishing. It is often styled in trade publications as (wt) and is synonymous with production title and tentative ...
on a feature film project with
Stephen Daldry Stephen David Daldry Commander of the Order of the British Empire, CBE (born 2 May 1960) is an English director and producer of film, theatre, and television. He has won three Tony Awards for his work on Broadway theatre, Broadway and an Olivie ...
. Chin later accompanied Ed Viesturs to Annapurna in 2005. Viesturs successfully climbed Annapurna and finished his quest to climb all of the world's 8000-metre peaks without oxygen. Chin photographed the expedition and the story was featured in the September 2005 issue of ''
Men's Journal ''Men's Journal'' was an American men's lifestyle magazine focused on outdoor recreation and comprising editorials on the outdoors, environmental issues, health and fitness, style and fashion, and gear. It was founded in 1992 by Jann Wenner of ...
''. In October 2006, he achieved the first successful American ski descent of Mount Everest with Kit DesLauriers and Rob DesLauriers. They skied from the summit and are the only people to have skied the South Pillar Route on the Lhotse Face. In May 2007, Chin joined the Altitude Everest Expedition as a climber and expedition photographer in an attempt to retrace
George Mallory George Herbert Leigh-Mallory (18 June 1886 – 8 or 9 June 1924) was an English Mountaineering, mountaineer who participated in the first three British Mount Everest expeditions from the early to mid-1920s. He and climbing partner An ...
and Sandy Irvine's fateful last journey up the North Face of Everest. In 2007, Chin ventured to Borneo with Mark Synnott, Conrad Anker, and
Alex Honnold Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his Free solo climbing, free solo ascents of Big wall climbing, big walls. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a f ...
to make the first ascent of a 2,500-foot overhanging alpine big wall at an elevation of 14,000 feet on Mount Kinabalu. In 2008, Chin, Conrad Anker, and Renan Ozturk made their first attempt on the "Shark's Fin", a 1,500-foot blade of granite leading to the summit of 21,000-foot Meru Central, in India's Garhwal Himalaya range. They spent 19 days on the wall but were forced to turn back just 100 meters short of the summit. In 2009, on an expedition to Chad's remote Ennedi Desert, Chin, Alex Honnold, Renan Ozturk, Mark Synott, and James Pearson made numerous first ascents of sandstone towers and arches. Outside of major Himalayan expeditions, Chin has participated in numerous exploratory climbing and skiing expeditions to Baffin Island, Borneo, Mali, Chad, the Pitcairn Islands, Antarctica, and other remote regions of the planet. In April 2011, Chin survived a class-4 avalanche in the Grand Tetons, his home mountain range. In October 2011 Chin, Conrad Anker and Renan Ozturk made the first ascent of the Shark's Fin route on Meru Central in the Garhwal Himalayas in India. They had tried the same climb in 2008, but were forced to turn around 100m from the summit. His film of the climb, '' Meru'', was released in theaters in 2015. In 2017, Chin and Anker established a new route on Ulvetanna Peak, called ''The Wolf's Fang'', in
Queen Maud Land Queen Maud Land () is a roughly region of Antarctica Territorial claims in Antarctica, claimed by Norway as a dependent territory. It borders the claimed British Antarctic Territory 20th meridian west, 20° west, specifically the Caird Coast, ...
, in
Antarctica Antarctica () is Earth's southernmost and least-populated continent. Situated almost entirely south of the Antarctic Circle and surrounded by the Southern Ocean (also known as the Antarctic Ocean), it contains the geographic South Pole. ...
. In 2020, Chin, Anker, Jim Morrison, and Hilaree Nelson climbed and skied
Mount Vinson Vinson Massif () is a large mountain massif in Antarctica that is long and wide and lies within the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains. It overlooks the Ronne Ice Shelf near the base of the Antarctic Peninsula. The massif is located a ...
, the highest peak in Antarctica, in a one-day push. The team spent less than 48 hours at the mountain. They then attempted to climb and ski the French Route on Mount Tyree, the second-highest peak in Antarctica but turned around due to avalanche danger.


The Finding of Andrew Irvine's Remains

In 2024, exactly a century after Irvine's disappearance, an expedition led by Chin recovered a detached foot inside a boot and sock on Rongbuk Glacier. The sock was embroidered with 'A.C. Irvine' and is believed to be Andrew Irvine's. Per Chin, it is suspected the remains had melted out of the glacier about a week prior to discovery. Due to the presence of scavenging birds, Chin and his team removed the foot and turned it over to the China Tibet Mountaineering Association, the governmental agency which oversees the North Side of Mount Everest.


Filmmaking career

Chin began filming in 2003 under the mentorship of Rick Ridgeway. He was a cinematographer for the National Geographic television special ''Deadly Fashion''. He later worked with David Breashears, shooting Ed Viesturs climbing to the summit of Mount Everest. He worked as a cinematographer with Chris Malloy of Woodshed films on the feature documentary ''180 South''. In 2010, Chin started the commercial production company Camp 4 Collective with Tim Kemple and Renan Ozturk. He sold the company to his partners in 2014. Chin collaborated with his wife
Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi ( ; born ) is an American documentary filmmaker. She was the director, along with her husband, Jimmy Chin, for the film ''Free Solo'', which won the 2019 Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature. The film profiled Ale ...
to produce and direct the feature-length documentary '' Meru'', about his 2011 climb. It premiered at the
2015 Sundance Film Festival The 2015 Sundance Film Festival took place from January 22 to February 1, 2015. ''What Happened, Miss Simone?'', a biographical documentary film about American singer Nina Simone, opened the festival. Comedy-drama film '' Grandma'', directed by ...
, winning the US Audience Documentary Award.
Alex Honnold Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his Free solo climbing, free solo ascents of Big wall climbing, big walls. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a f ...
and Chin started climbing together in 2009 but it was not until 2015 that Honnold chose Chin and wife Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi to film his process of climbing up El Capitan. On June 3, 2017, Chin led a team that filmed Alex Honnold on the first ever rope-free ascent of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. Collaborating again with Vasarhelyi, they produced and directed the feature-length documentary ''
Free Solo Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs Solo climbing, solo (or alone) without Climbing rope, ropes or other Rock climbing equipment#Protection devices, protective equipmen ...
''. ''Free Solo'' went on to win the People's Choice Award: Documentaries at the 2018 Toronto International Film Festival, the 2018
BAFTA Award for Best Documentary The BAFTA Award for Best Documentary is a film award presented annually by the British Academy of Film and Television Arts (BAFTA) at the British Academy Film Awards. It was formerly known as the Robert Flaherty Documentary Award. In the followi ...
, and the 2018
Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature The Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature Film is an award for documentary films. In 1941, the first awards for feature-length documentaries were bestowed as Academy Honorary Award, Special Awards to ''Kukan'' and ''Target for Tonight''. The ...
. Chin and Chai's 2021 documentary, '' The Rescue'', chronicles the 2018 Tham Luang cave rescue, during which twelve boys belonging to an
association football Association football, more commonly known as football or soccer, is a team sport played between two teams of 11 Football player, players who almost exclusively use their feet to propel a Ball (association football), ball around a rectangular f ...
team and their assistant coach were rescued from inside a flooded cave in northern Thailand. The film, which premiered in select theaters in October 2021, won the People's Choice Documentary Award at the
Toronto International Film Festival The Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF, often stylized as tiff) is one of the most prestigious and largest publicly attended film festivals in the world. Founded in 1976, the festival takes place every year in early September. The organi ...
and received generally positive reviews. Their 2022 documentary '' Return to Space'' centered on
Elon Musk Elon Reeve Musk ( ; born June 28, 1971) is a businessman. He is known for his leadership of Tesla, SpaceX, X (formerly Twitter), and the Department of Government Efficiency (DOGE). Musk has been considered the wealthiest person in th ...
and
SpaceX Space Exploration Technologies Corp., commonly referred to as SpaceX, is an America, American space technology company headquartered at the SpaceX Starbase, Starbase development site in Starbase, Texas. Since its founding in 2002, the compa ...
. The 8-part documentary series ''Edge of the Unknown with Jimmy Chin'' premiered on Disney Plus on September 7, 2022. Chin and Chai co-directed and produced 2 episodes, while Chin was featured throughout the series. Chin and Chai's 2023 National Geographic documentary ''Wild Life'' follows
Kristine Tompkins Kristine "Kris" Tompkins (born June 1950) is an American conservationist. Tompkins is the president and co-founder of Tompkins Conservation and was CEO of Patagonia for 20 years, leaving the company in 1993. Early life Born Kristine McDivitt ...
and
Doug Tompkins Douglas Rainsford Tompkins (March 20, 1943 – December 8, 2015) was an American businessman, conservation movement, conservationist, outdoorsman, philanthropist, filmmaker, and agriculturalist. He founded the The North Face, North Face Inc, co ...
for decades of their love story, life of entrepreneurial and conservation work, culminating with their visionary effort to create national parks in Chile and Argentina through the largest private land donation in history. Co-directed with Natalie Hewit, Chin and Chai's 2024 National Geographic documentary, ''Endurance'', tells the story of
Ernest Shackleton Sir Ernest Henry Shackleton (15 February 1874 – 5 January 1922) was an Anglo-Irish Antarctic explorer who led three British expeditions to the Antarctic. He was one of the principal figures of the period known as the Heroic Age of Antarcti ...
's Trans-Antarctic expedition in the 1910's and the 2022 rediscovery of his ship, which had sunk to the bottom of the
Weddell Sea The Weddell Sea is part of the Southern Ocean and contains the Weddell Gyre. Its land boundaries are defined by the bay formed from the coasts of Coats Land and the Antarctic Peninsula. The easternmost point is Cape Norvegia at Princess Martha C ...
, by the Endurance22 mission. The film includes preserved film footage from the original expedition's photographer,
Frank Hurley James Francis "Frank" Hurley (15 October 1885 – 16 January 1962) was an Australian photographer and adventurer. He participated in a number of expeditions to Antarctica and served as an official photographer with Australian forces durin ...
.


Personal life

Chin was born and raised in
Mankato, Minnesota Mankato ( ) is a city in Blue Earth County, Minnesota, Blue Earth, Nicollet County, Minnesota, Nicollet, and Le Sueur County, Minnesota, Le Sueur counties in the U.S. state of Minnesota. It is the county seat of Blue Earth County, Minnesota. The ...
, and graduated from Wayland Academy. Both his parents are from
China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. With population of China, a population exceeding 1.4 billion, it is the list of countries by population (United Nations), second-most populous country after ...
, his father was born in
Wenzhou Wenzhou; Chinese postal romanization, historically known as Wenchow is a prefecture-level city in China's Zhejiang province. Wenzhou is located at the extreme southeast of Zhejiang, bordering Lishui, Zhejiang, Lishui to the west, Taizhou, Zheji ...
, and his mother was born in
Harbin Harbin, ; zh, , s=哈尔滨, t=哈爾濱, p=Hā'ěrbīn; IPA: . is the capital of Heilongjiang, China. It is the largest city of Heilongjiang, as well as being the city with the second-largest urban area, urban population (after Shenyang, Lia ...
. They both worked as librarians. He is a 1996 alumnus of
Carleton College Carleton College ( ) is a Private college, private Liberal arts colleges in the United States, liberal arts college in Northfield, Minnesota, United States. Founded in 1866, the main campus is between Northfield and the approximately Carleton ...
, where he received a BA in Asian Studies. He first became involved in climbing while at Carleton. After college, he became a climbing " dirtbag", despite his parents' disapproval. He serendipitously discovered photography when he borrowed his sleeping climbing partner's camera to take a photo. They sold the picture for $500, and this started his photography career. On May 26, 2013, Chin married film director and producer
Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi ( ; born ) is an American documentary filmmaker. She was the director, along with her husband, Jimmy Chin, for the film ''Free Solo'', which won the 2019 Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature. The film profiled Ale ...
. As of 2015, Chin splits his time between
New York City New York, often called New York City (NYC), is the most populous city in the United States, located at the southern tip of New York State on one of the world's largest natural harbors. The city comprises five boroughs, each coextensive w ...
and
Jackson, Wyoming Jackson is a resort town in Teton County, Wyoming, United States. The population was 10,760 at the 2020 census, up from 9,577 in 2010. It is Teton County's only incorporated municipality and county seat, and it is the largest incorporated town ...
. Chin and Vasarhelyi have two children: Marina and James.


Notable ascents

Climbing *Meru-Sharks Fin, FA of East Face VII 5.10 A4 M7, India *Mt. Everest, South Col Route, Nepal *Ulvetanna, FA of the Anker Chin Route, VII 5.10, A3, Antarctica *Mt. Kinabalu, FA V 5.12 A2, Borneo *Kaga Pomori, FA IV; 5.11R South Face, Mali, Africa *Chiru Mustagh, first ascent Southeast Ridge, 21,000 ft., Xinjiang, China *Free solo of the Grand Traverse, Grand Teton National Park, 12 hours car to car *Tahir Tower, FA VII 5.11 A3, Kondus Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan *15 one day ascents of El Capitan *Native Son, VI 5.9 A4, Pacific Ocean Wall, VI 5.10, A3+ *Beatrice Tower, FA VII 5.10+ A3+, Charakusa Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan *Fathi Brakk, FA VI 5.10+ A3 WI4, Charakusa Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan Ski mountaineering *Mt. Everest, South Pillar Route, first American ski descent *Tai Yang Peak, first ascent and ski descent, Xinjiang, China * Chang Zheng Peak (22,800 ft.), first ski descent, Central Rongbuk, Tibet *25 ski descents of the Grand Teton *First solo winter ski descent of the Grand Teton *Skied the Grand Teton, Middle Teton and South Teton 10 hours car to car *Skied multiple lines off all the primary peaks in the Teton Range including the Newcomb Couloir on the north face of Buck Mountain, the Spooky Face on Nez Perce, the Amore Vida on the South Teton, the Glacier Route on the Middle Teton, the Colvin on Mount Owen, the East Face of Teewinot and the Skillet on Mount Moran among others. *Denali, West Buttress, Rescue Gully


Publications

*''There and Back'' (2021)


Filmography


Feature film director

*'' Nyad'' (2023)


Feature documentary producer / director

*'' Meru'' (2015) *''
Free Solo Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs Solo climbing, solo (or alone) without Climbing rope, ropes or other Rock climbing equipment#Protection devices, protective equipmen ...
'' (2018) *'' The Rescue'' (2021) *'' 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible'' (2021) *'' Return to Space'' (2022) * ''Wild Life'' (2023) *''Endurance (2024)''


Instructor

*
MasterClass Yanka Industries, Inc., doing business as MasterClass, is an American online education subscription platform on which students can access tutorials and lectures pre-recorded by experts in various fields. The concept for MasterClass was conceiv ...
' ''Jimmy Chin Teaches Adventure Photography''


Film awards and honors


Awards

*Navy SEAL Foundation Fire in the Gut Award (2024) *Nominee Piolet D'Or International Climbing award *Outside Magazine's Adventurers of the Year 2012 *American Society of Magazine Editors (ASME) Sports and Adventure Winner *Society of American Travel Writers (SATW) Foundation's Award *National Geographic and Microsoft Emerging Explorers Grant *Galen Rowell Memorial Photography Award *Lyman Spitzer Adventure Award: K7 Climbing Expedition *Polartec Grant Recipient: K7 Climbing Expedition *Honorary Doctorate, Sustainability Science, Unity College, Unity, Maine *Carleton College Alumni Award for Distinguished Achievement *National Geographic Photographer's Photographer Award (2020) *National Geographic Further Award (2020) *Murie Spirit of Conversation Award (2019) *Audience Award at Sundance Film Festival for ''Meru'' (2015) *
Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature The Academy Award for Best Documentary Feature Film is an award for documentary films. In 1941, the first awards for feature-length documentaries were bestowed as Academy Honorary Award, Special Awards to ''Kukan'' and ''Target for Tonight''. The ...
for ''Free Solo'' (2018) *GQ Man of the Year (2021) *Ken Burn's American Heritage Prize (2022)


See also

*
List of Mount Everest summiters by number of times to the summit This list consists of people who reached the summit of Mount Everest more than once. By 2013, 6,871 summits had been recorded by 4,042 people. By the end of 2016 there were 7,646 summits by 4,469 people. In 2018 about 800 people summited, breaking ...


References


External links

* * {{DEFAULTSORT:Chin, Jimmy 1970s births American mountain climbers American people of Chinese descent American people of Taiwanese descent Carleton College alumni Directors of Best Documentary Feature Academy Award winners Living people National Geographic photographers People from Wilson, Wyoming Primetime Emmy Award winners Sportspeople from Mankato, Minnesota American summiters of Mount Everest Wayland Academy, Wisconsin alumni Year of birth missing (living people)