Ekiben

are a specific type of ''bento'' boxed meals, sold on trains and at train stations in Japan. They come with disposable chopsticks (when necessary) or spoons. ''Ekiben'' containers can be made from plastic, wood, or ceramic. Many train stations have become famous for their ''ekiben'' made from local food specialties (''tokusanhin'').

''Ekiben'' were first sold in railway stations in the late 19th century, and developed at a time when meals on train were necessary during a long train journey. The popularity of ''ekiben'' reached a peak in the 1980s, but declined as air travel became more affordable and trains became faster. However, numerous types of ''ekiben'' can still be purchased at stands in the station, on the platform, or on the train itself, some of which may be presented in unique containers that can serve as souvenirs or collectibles. Despite undergoing a decline in popularity in the 1990s and 2000s, ''ekiben'' remains popular among travelers, and gained popularity on the Shinkansen ever since the dining car service that replaced it was discontinued when Japan's asset price bubble burst in the early 1990s, leading to the Lost Decades.

History

The word ''ekiben'' comes from "''eki''", meaning railway station, and "''ben''", which is short for ''bento'' (box meal). Before the introduction of rail travel, travellers would prepare their own meal or buy meals kept in wooden ''bento'' boxes sold in tea houses. During the intermission of kabuki theatre performances, '' makunouchi-bento'' ("between-acts box lunches") were also sold. These would evolve into ''ekiben'' with the coming of railways. The first sale of ''ekiben'' is generally believed to have been at the Utsunomiya Station in 1885 which opened when the Nihon Tetsudo line linked the station to Ueno Station in Tokyo. In the beginning the ''ekiben'' offered were simple fare, the ''ekiben'' offered at Utsunomiya Station were simply ''onigiri'' (rice balls) wrapped in young bamboo leaves. The idea of selling ''ekiben'' quickly spread to railway stations around the country, and in 1888, the first standard ''ekiben'' with rice and a few side dishes were sold at Himeji Station.

At the beginning of the 20th century, many stations began to offer ''ekiben'' that served meals prepared from local specialties, and ''ekiben'' then evolved into a form of meal distinct from other ''bento'' boxes. These may be developed specially and are unique to each region, and often found only at the local railway stations. A well-known example is '' ikameshi'', squid stuffed with rice, served at the Mori Station in Hokkaido. It was first produced as an ''ekiben'' meal but has since become a noted regional dish. In many places, ''ekiben'' have become souvenirs of local specialty for tourists with unique containers and attractive packaging.

Rail travel in Japan boomed after the Second World War, and with it the popularity of ''ekiben''. Sales of ''ekiben'' was further spurred on in the 1970s by '' Ekiben Hitoritabi'', a drama based on a manga about a person who travelled round Japan to taste the ''ekiben'' in different parts of the country. At its height in the mid 1980s, it was estimated that twelve million boxes were consumed daily. This "Golden Age" of ''ekiben'', however, ended in the 1980s when air travel became popular and the introduction of faster trains became more widespread. Prior to the 1980s, air travel was expensive and travelers tended to use trains which were then much slower, therefore ''ekiben'' were necessary during their long train journeys. Faster trains such as the Shinkansen also eliminated many stops along a railway journey, which contributed to its decline, and some stations no longer offer ''ekiben''. From 1987 to 2008, there was a 50% decline in the number of ''ekiben'' makers. However, the popularity of the ''ekiben'' increased when the dining car was discontinued in the 1990s, eventually gaining popularity on the Shinkansen aside from remaining popular on the slower but cheaper commuter trains.

''Ekiben'' are now also available outside of railway station in department stores and airports. Annual ''ekiben'' fairs are held at various department stores, the first of which was held in 1966. The largest of these are the ones at the Keio Department Store in Shinjuku Station, Tokyo, and Hanshin Department Store in Osaka. Japanese railfans who have a particular enthusiasm for ''ekiben'' are known as ''ekiben-tetsu''.

Types

There many types of different ''ekiben'' available. The standard ''ekiben'' available throughout Japan is known as '' makunouchi-bento'', which typically features rice, grilled fish, fish cakes, pickles, and other standard elements. There are also regional varieties of ''ekiben'' that incorporate elements of the local cuisine. For example, '' masuzushi'' is a variety of ''ekiben'' from Toyama Prefecture that features trout '' oshizushi'' (pressed sushi) wrapped in bamboo leaves.

A similar style of meal is also popular in Taiwan, known as Taiwan Railway Bento.

Gallery

File:巡回強化中 (19719167566).jpg, A variety of ''ekiben'' on sale at a railway station
File:KatsuSando6515.jpg, '' Katsu-sando'' served as an ''ekiben'' aboard a Shinkansen service
File:Ofuna ken ekiben booth.jpg, ''Ekiben'' shop on a platform at Kamakura Station
File:Chicken Bento Box - Shinkansen (42174775622).jpg, A bento box sold at Hiroshima Station
File:発熱ユニット (5512967989).jpg, Sukiyaki bento sold at Yonezawa Station, with the heating pack used to heat the contents visible

See also

*''Kyaraben'': elaborately arranged ''bento''
*'' Ikameshi'': a regional dish composed of squid cooked with rice inside
* '' Kamameshi'': dish of rice, meat, and vegetables cooked in a pot

References

{{Authority control
Bento
Japanese cuisine
Railway culture in Japan
Food and drink culture in railway
Rail tourism