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Crack Climbing
In rock climbing, a crack climb is a type of climbing route that follows a system of crack(s) or fissure(s) which the climber uses to ascend the route. The width of the crack dictates the techniques needed, and crack-climbs are further differentiated by the body parts that can be 'jammed' into them, such as finger cracks (the narrowest), hand/fist cracks, arm cracks, and body (also called chimney) cracks. Off-width cracks are some of the most awkward, being too wide for the hands or arms, but too narrow to accommodate the body. A top-to-bottom uniform-width crack is known as a splitter crack. Crack climbing routes require a broad range of techniques, but most importantly emphasize the techniques of ' laybacking' and of ' jamming'. Laybacking requires the crack to be off-set (i.e. one side protrudes) or in a corner, to create the opposing forces needed for the technique. 'Jamming' is where the climber physically "jams" a body-part(s) into the crack which they then pull on to gain ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Rock Climbing
Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending climbing routes, routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in climbing guidebook, guidebooks, and on online databases, detailing how to climb the route (called the beta (climbing), beta), and who made the first ascent (or FA) and the coveted First ascent#In rock climbing, first free ascent (or FFA). Climbers will try to ascend a route onsight, however, a climber can spend years projecting (climbing), projecting a route before they make a redpoint (climbing), redpoint ascent. Routes range from a few metres to over a in height, and traverse (climbing), traverses can reach in length. They include slab climbing, slabs, face climbing, faces, crack climbing, cracks and overhang (climbing), overhangs/roofs. Popular rock types are granite (e.g. El Capitan), limestone (e.g. Verdon Gorge), and sandstone (e ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Big Wall Climbing
Big wall climbing is a form of rock climbing that takes place on long and sheer multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch climbing routes, routes (of ''at least'' 6–10 pitches or 300–500 metres) that require a full day, if not several days, to ascend. Big wall routes are sustained and exposed and the climbers remain suspended from the continuously sheer and vertical rock face, even sleeping hanging from the face, with limited options to sit down or escape unless they abseil down the route—a complex and risky action. It is therefore a physically and mentally demanding form of climbing. Big wall climbing is typically done in pairs in a traditional climbing format, but with the distinction that the non-lead climber usually ascends by jumaring up a fixed rope to save time and energy. It requires an extensive range of supplies and equipment over and above that of traditional climbing that is carried in haul bags, including portaledges, aid climbing equipment, poop tubes, and food and ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Dave MacLeod
Dave MacLeod (born 17 July 1978) is a Scottish rock climber, ice climber, mixed climber, and climbing author. MacLeod is known for being the second-ever person to free solo a graded route (''Darwin Dixit'' in Margalef, in 2008), and for climbing one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world ('' Rhapsody'' on Dumbarton Rock, graded E11 7a, in 2006). Climbing career Rock climbing In April 2006, MacLeod established the climb '' Rhapsody'' on Dumbarton Rock which, at a grade of E11 7a, was the hardest traditional climbing route in the world at the time. The ascent of ''Rhapsody'' is the subject of the movie ''E11'' (2006) directed by Paul Diffley and produced by Hot Aches Productions. In 2008, MacLeod became the second-ever person free solo an graded route (''Darwin Dixit'' in Margalef). In 2008, MacLeod completed the traditional rock climb ''Echo Wall'', an extreme and as-yet ungraded rock climb on Ben Nevis, which took two years of preparation. MacLeo ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Cobra Crack
Cobra Crack is a long traditional climbing route on a thin crack up an overhanging granite rock face on Stawamus Chief, in Squamish, British Columbia. The route was first ascended by Peter Croft and Tami Knight in 1981 as an aid climb. After it rebuffed many leading climbers, most notably Swiss climber Didier Berthod in 2005, the Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter made the first free ascent in 2006. With subsequent ascents, the consensus grade has settled at , which ranked the route as one of the hardest crack climbs in the world, and almost two decades later, it is still considered one of the world's hardest traditional climbing routes. History Canadian climbers and Squamish regulars, Peter Croft and Tami Knight, made the first ascent of Cobra Crack in 1981, a route that is located at the 'Cirque of the Uncrackables' behind Stawamus Chief, in Squamish. They used aid and graded it at A2. The route was named after the distinctive cobra silhouette of the groove that leads int ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Traditional Climbing
Traditional climbing (or trad climbing) is a type of free climbing in rock climbing where the lead climber places removable protection while simultaneously ascending the route; when the lead climber has completed the route, the second climber (or belayer) then removes this protection as they ascend the route. Traditional climbing differs from sport climbing where the protection equipment is already pre-drilled into the rock in the form of bolts. Traditional climbing is still the dominant format on longer multi-pitch routes, including alpine and big wall. Traditional climbing carries a much higher level of risk than bolted sport climbing as the climber may not have placed the protection equipment correctly while ascending the route, or there may be few opportunities to insert satisfactory protection (e.g. on very difficult routes). Traditional climbing was once the dominant form of free climbing but since the mid-1980s, sport climbing — and its related form of competition ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Desnivel
''Desnivel'' is Spain's first monthly independent climbing and mountaineering magazine, published since 1981. History and profile ''Desnivel'' was founded in 1981 by Spanish mountaineer and journalist Darío Rodríguez.www.up-climbing.com''Mr. Desnivel (2008)''. Retrieved 20 June 2015.www.irishmountaineeringclub.org''Magazines - Desnivel'' Retrieved 20 June 2015. Under the leadership of Rodríguez the magazine became very influential in Spanish climbing circles. Alpinist (2011)Serkhe Khollu(" .Isabel Suppe - ''Starry Night'' was a finalist for ''Premio Desnivel'', a notable mountain literature award in the international climbing community"). Retrieved 20 June 2015.www.climbingtechnology.com''Desnivel, the leading Spanish climbing and mountaineering magazine'' Retrieved 20 June 2015. The magazine is published monthly in Madrid and is focused on mountaineering (Pyrenees, Alps, expeditions) and climbing (Iberian Peninsula). Today the ''Editorial Desnivel'' is publishing mountaineer ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Prinzip Hoffnung
''Prinzip Hoffnung'' (in English: ''Principle Hope'' or ''Principle of Hope''), is a long traditional climbing route on a thin crack up a conglomerate rock slab on the "Bürs plate cliff" () overlooking the village of Bürs in Vorarlberg, Austria. The route was greenpointed by Austrian climber in 2009, and was one of the earliest traditional climbing routes to be graded at 5.14 R (American), 8b/+ (French), X/X+ (UIAA), or E9-E10 (British); it is still considered one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world. History The blank south-facing black conglomerate slab on the "Bürs plate cliff" that overlooks the village of Bürs in Vorarlberg, had been known to climbers in the region as a possible project. In 1997, Austrian climber Marco Wasina made the first redpoint (i.e. after several failed attempts, the first free ascent without falling during that ascent) of the lower part of the route up the length of the first thin crack that splits the face, whi ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Alpinist (magazine)
''Alpinist'' is a quarterly American magazine focused on mountain literature and mountaineering ascents worldwide. History and profile ''Alpinist'' was founded in 2002 and was originally published out of Jackson, Wyoming. It was resurrected in 2009 and is now based in Jeffersonville, Vermont. The magazine often focuses on "fast and light" ascents and advocates a rigorous clean-climbing style (not leaving gear behind). ''Alpinist'' won the Maggie Award for Best Overall Design/Consumer Category from the Western Publication Association (WPA) for its Autumn issue (Issue 8) in 2005, and the Maggie Award for the Best Quarterly/Consumer Division in April 2004 for its Winter 2003–2004 issue (Issue 5). On October 16, 2008 the magazine announced that it was closing operations due to financial problems. The magazine was re-launched on April 15, 2009, with Michael Kennedy as the new Editor-in-Chief, by Height of Land Publications, home of ''Telemark Skier'' and ''Backcountry'' m ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Sonnie Trotter
Sonnie Trotter (born 15 November 1979) is a Canadian professional climber, known for his strength in many rock climbing disciplines – particularly traditional climbing – and contributing to hundreds of first free ascents around the world. Climbing career Trotter began climbing in 1997 at age 16 and became the first Canadian to climb at grade 5.14c, and the third North American to make the first free ascent of a graded route. In later years, Trotter became known for his traditional climbing routes, and his first free ascent of the '' Cobra Crack'' in Squamish, British Columbia. In 2006, Trotter and climbing partner Matt Segal, connected ''The Shadow'' (5.13b), ''The Grand Wall'' (5.13b), and ''The Black Dyke'' (5.13b), on the Stawamus Chief in Squamish, in a single 12-hour push. Personal He currently works at Elevation Place in Canmore, Alberta. He lives in Canmore with his wife, daughter and son. Filmography 'Trotter has been featured in three award-winning films. ' ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Bolt (climbing)
In rock climbing, a bolt is a permanent anchor fixed into a hole drilled in the rock as a form of climbing protection. Most bolts are either self-anchoring expansion bolts or fixed in place with liquid resin. Climbing routes that are bolted are known as sport climbs, and those that do not use (or allow) bolts, are known as traditional climbs. Description While bolts are commonplace in rock and gym climbing there is no universal vocabulary to describe them. Generally, a bolt hanger (or a fixed hanger) is a combination of a fixed bolt and a specialized stainless steel hanger designed to accept a carabiner, whereas in certain regions a bolt runner (or a carrot) describes a hangerless bolt (where the climber must provide their own hanger bracket such as a rivet hanger). A climbing rope is then clipped into the carabiner. Generally quickdraws or slings are employed between bolt hangers and the rope to reduce drag when ascending, belaying and rappelling. Types Variations of ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Greenpoint (climbing)
Glossary of climbing terms relates to rock climbing (including aid climbing, lead climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing), mountaineering, and to ice climbing. ebook: The terms used can vary between different English-speaking countries; many of the phrases described here are particular to the United States and the United Kingdom. A B C D E F G ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Didier Berthod
Didier Berthod (born 1981) is a Swiss rock climber and priest. He specializes in traditional climbing, and crack climbing in particular. Climbing career In 2003, Berthod came to international prominence when he pinkpointed the unfinished sport climbing route ''Greenspit'' in the Orco Valley in Italy, as a traditional climbing route. Converting a sport route to a traditional route is known as " greenpointing" (although the route's name came from its green colored sport bolts). In 2005, Berthold returned to do the route without any pre-placed protection, and ''Greenspit'' was recognized as one of the hardest traditional crack climbs in the world. Berthod then made trips to America where he put up new traditional climbing routes such as ''Learning to Fly'' and ''From Switzerland with Love'', both at grade 5.13+ in Indian Creek in Utah. The 2006 cult climbing film ''First Ascent'', followed Berthod's unsuccessful efforts to make the first free ascent of '' Cobra Crack'', a -gr ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
