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Prinzip Hoffnung
''Prinzip Hoffnung'' (in English: ''Principle Hope'' or ''Principle of Hope''), is a long traditional climbing route on a thin crack up a conglomerate rock slab on the "Bürs plate cliff" (german: Bürser Platte) overlooking the village of Bürs in Vorarlberg, Austria. The route was greenpointied by Austrian climber in 2009, and was one of the earliest traditional climbing routes to be graded at 5.14 R (American), 8b/+ (French), X/X+ (UIAA), or E9-E10 (British); it is still considered one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world. History In 1997, Austrian climber Marco Wasina made the first redpoint of the lower part of the route up the length of the first thin crack that splits the face, which he did as a bolted sport climb. A few months later, his friend repeated Wasina's route, and then made the difficult moves to extend the route rightwards into another set of even smaller fissure cracks through an almost blank featureless section of to create an ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Bürs
Bürs is a municipality in the district of Bludenz in the Austrian state of Vorarlberg Vorarlberg ( , ; gsw, label= Vorarlbergisch, Vorarlbearg, , or ) is the westernmost state () of Austria. It has the second-smallest geographical area after Vienna and, although it also has the second-smallest population, it is the state with the .... Climate Population References Cities and towns in Bludenz District {{Vorarlberg-geo-stub ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
First Female Free Ascent
In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges and recognition than climbing a route pioneered by others. The person who performs the first ascent is called the first ascensionist. In free climbing, a first ascent (or first free ascent, abbreviated FFA) of a climbing route is the first successful, documented climb of a route without using equipment such as anchors or ropes for aiding progression or resting. History The details of the first ascents of even many prominent mountains are scanty or unknown; sometimes the only evidence of prior summiting is a cairn, artifacts, or inscriptions at the top. Today, first ascents are generally carefully recorded and usually mentioned in guidebooks. The term is also used when referring ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Traditional Climbing Routes
A tradition is a belief or behavior (folk custom) passed down within a group or society with symbolic meaning or special significance with origins in the past. A component of cultural expressions and folklore, common examples include holidays or impractical but socially meaningful clothes (like lawyers' wigs or military officers' spurs), but the idea has also been applied to social norms such as greetings. Traditions can persist and evolve for thousands of years—the word ''tradition'' itself derives from the Latin ''tradere'' literally meaning to transmit, to hand over, to give for safekeeping. While it is commonly assumed that traditions have an ancient history, many traditions have been invented on purpose, whether that be political or cultural, over short periods of time. Various academic disciplines also use the word in a variety of ways. The phrase "according to tradition", or "by tradition", usually means that whatever information follows is known only by oral tradition, ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Cobra Crack
''Cobra Crack'' is a long traditional climbing route on a thin crack up an overhanging granite rock face on Stawamus Chief, in Squamish, British Columbia. The route was first ascended by Peter Croft and Tami Knight in 1981 as an aid climb. After rebuffing many attempts by leading climbers – most notably by Swiss crack climber Didier Berthod in 2005 – Canadian climber Sonnie Trotter made the first free ascent in 2006. With subsequent ascents, the consensus grade has settled at which ranked ''Cobra Crack'' as one of the hardest crack climbs in the world, and almost two decades later, it is still considered one of the world's hardest traditional climbing routes. History In 1981, Canadian climbers and Squamish regulars, Peter Croft and Tami Knight, made the first ascent of ''Cobra Crack'', as an A2-graded aid climbing route. The route was named after the distinctive Cobra silhouette of the groove that leads into the main crack. By the 2000s, the route had become an ope ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Separate Reality (climb)
''Separate Reality'' is a traditional climbing route in Yosemite National Park in California. The route is known for its exposed and dramatic crux that consists of a long crack in its horizontal roof. When it was first freed by Ron Kauk in 1978, it was one of the first climbs in the world to have a grade of (it was later downgraded one notch when a hold broke in the mid-1980s). In 1986, German climber Wolfgang Güllich free soloed the route, and the photographs by Austrian become iconic in rock climbing history. History The route was first climbed by Ron Kauk in 1978 and given a difficulty grade of ; it was later downgraded to when a block fell off near the lip, sometime in the mid-1980s, exposing a new handhold. At the time of Kauk's ascent, it was one of the first climbs in the world to have a grade of . Kauk named the route after the 1971 novel ''A Separate Reality'' by Carlos Castaneda. Kauk's partner, Lucy Parker, told '' Alpinist'' magazine that the book was ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Indian Face
''Indian Face'' is a rhyolite rock climbing route on the "Great Wall" of the East Buttress of Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, in Wales. When English climber Johnny Dawes completed the first free ascent of the route on 4 October 1986, it was graded E9 6c or (5.13a X), the first-ever E9-graded route, and was considered one of the hardest traditional climbing routes in the world. ''Indian Face'' is still considered one of the world's most intimidating traditional climbs, and even decades after its first ascent, it is rarely repeated. The ascent was an historic moment in the transition from traditional climbing as the dominant form of extreme rock climbing (in Britain, and elsewhere), to the safer form of sport climbing, which became the focus for the leading climbers. History Clogwyn Du'r Arddu has long been considered a "crucible" of British traditional climbing, with many of Britain's leading climbers creating iconic routes on its buttresses; and the most challenging section is t ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Climbing (magazine)
''Climbing'' is a major US-based rock climbing magazine first published in 1970. In 2007, it was bought by Skram Media, the publisher of ''Urban Climber Magazine''. The headquarters of the magazine is in Boulder, Colorado. It is published nine times a year. Climbing was purchased by '' Outside'' in 2021. See also * ''Alpinist'' magazine * ''Summit'' magazine * ''Rock & Ice ''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became ...'' References External links * Online magazines published in the United States Sports magazines published in the United States Climbing magazines Magazines established in 1970 Magazines published in Colorado {{sport-mag-stub ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
FFFA
In mountaineering, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books) is the first successful, documented attainment of the top of a mountain or the first to follow a particular climbing route. First mountain ascents are notable because they entail genuine exploration, with greater risks, challenges and recognition than climbing a route pioneered by others. The person who performs the first ascent is called the first ascensionist. In free climbing, a first ascent (or first free ascent, abbreviated FFA) of a climbing route is the first successful, documented climb of a route without using equipment such as anchors or ropes for aiding progression or resting. History The details of the first ascents of even many prominent mountains are scanty or unknown; sometimes the only evidence of prior summiting is a cairn, artifacts, or inscriptions at the top. Today, first ascents are generally carefully recorded and usually mentioned in guidebooks. The term is also used when referrin ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Desnivel
''Desnivel'' is Spain´s first monthly independent climbing and mountaineering magazine, published since 1981. History and profile ''Desnivel'' was founded in 1981 by Spanish mountaineer and journalist Darío Rodríguez.www.up-climbing.com''Mr. Desnivel (2008)''. Retrieved 20 June 2015.www.irishmountaineeringclub.org''Magazines - Desnivel'' Retrieved 20 June 2015. Under the leadership of Rodríguez the magazine became very influential in Spanish climbing circles. Alpinist (2011)Serkhe Khollu(" .Isabel Suppe - ''Starry Night'' was a finalist for ''Premio Desnivel'', a notable mountain literature award in the international climbing community"). Retrieved 20 June 2015.www.climbingtechnology.com''Desnivel, the leading Spanish climbing and mountaineering magazine'' Retrieved 20 June 2015. The magazine is published monthly in Madrid and is focused on mountaineering (Pyrenees, Alps, expeditions) and climbing (Iberian Peninsula). Today the ''Editorial Desnivel'' is publishing mountaineer ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
The Daily Telegraph
''The Daily Telegraph'', known online and elsewhere as ''The Telegraph'', is a national British daily broadsheet newspaper published in London by Telegraph Media Group and distributed across the United Kingdom and internationally. It was founded by Arthur B. Sleigh in 1855 as ''The Daily Telegraph & Courier''. Considered a newspaper of record over ''The Times'' in the UK in the years up to 1997, ''The Telegraph'' generally has a reputation for high-quality journalism, and has been described as being "one of the world's great titles". The paper's motto, "Was, is, and will be", appears in the editorial pages and has featured in every edition of the newspaper since 19 April 1858. The paper had a circulation of 363,183 in December 2018, descending further until it withdrew from newspaper circulation audits in 2019, having declined almost 80%, from 1.4 million in 1980.United Newspapers PLC and Fleet Holdings PLC', Monopolies and Mergers Commission (1985), pp. 5–16. Its ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Multi-pitch Climbing
Multi-pitch climbing is the ascent of climbing routes with one or more stops at a belay station. Each section of a climb between stops at belay stations is called a pitch. The leader ascends the pitch, placing gear and stopping to anchor themselves to the belay station. The general purpose of these stops is to allow the second climber to ascend to the point of the lead climber while collecting the protective gear from the route in the course of the lead climber's ascent. At the belay station, the protective gear is collected, possibly exchanged to a new leader, and the leader of the next pitch ascends the route. Reasons for invoking stops Climbers invoke stops either by choice, convention or necessity. Examples include: *The rope is too short to do the entire route in one pitch. *The leader has run out of protective gear. *There is a convenient protectable ledge, or fixed bolts placed by previous climbers, at the location for a belay station. *The leader chooses to rest or ex ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
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