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Didier Berthod (born 1981, in Bramois,
Valais Valais ( , , ; frp, Valês; german: Wallis ), more formally the Canton of Valais,; german: Kanton Wallis; in other official Swiss languages outside Valais: it, (Canton) Vallese ; rm, (Chantun) Vallais. is one of the 26 cantons forming the S ...
), is a Swiss
rock climber Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically an ...
and priest. He specializes in
traditional climbing Traditional climbing (or Trad climbing) is a style of rock climbing in which the climber places all the necessary protection gear required to arrest any falls as they are climbing, and then removes it when the pitch is complete (often done ...
, and crack climbing in particular.


Climbing career

In 2003, Didier free-climbed ''Greenspit'' at in the Orco Valley in
Italy Italy ( it, Italia ), officially the Italian Republic, ) or the Republic of Italy, is a country in Southern Europe. It is located in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, and its territory largely coincides with the homonymous geographical ...
, which was at that time considered to be one of the hardest traditional crack-climbs in the world. Berthod made trips to the America where he put up new traditional climbing routes such as ''Learning to Fly'' and ''From Switzerland wit Love'', both at grade 5.13+ in Indian Creek in Utah. The 2006 cult climbing film ''First Ascent'', followed Didier's unsuccessful efforts to make the first free ascent of ', graded in
Squamish, British Columbia Squamish (; Sḵwx̱wú7mesh sníchim: Sḵwx̱wú7mesh, ; 2016 census population 19,512) is a community and a district municipality in the Canadian province of British Columbia, located at the north end of Howe Sound on the Sea to Sky Highway. ...
, Canada; then the world's hardest traditional crack climb (it was later freed by Sonnie Trotter). The film also documented Berthod’s other climbs in Europe and his frugal lifestyle such as working in a hostel between attempts.


Religious life

After completing ''First Ascent'', Berthod, then aged 25 and carrying a serious knee injury, decided to completely abandon rock climbing and joined 's
Franciscan , image = FrancescoCoA PioM.svg , image_size = 200px , caption = A cross, Christ's arm and Saint Francis's arm, a universal symbol of the Franciscans , abbreviation = OFM , predecessor = , ...
-community, the fraternity, in
Saint-Maurice, Switzerland Saint-Maurice is a city in the Swiss canton of Valais and the capital of the district of Saint-Maurice. On 1 January 2013, the former municipality of Mex merged into the municipality of Saint-Maurice. On his return to climbing, he told German TV: "In recent years I quit this onasticway of being Christian and I embraced a way more humanistic way of being Christian". By 2020, Berthod had completed a new bolted route on Petit Clocher du Portalet.


Filmography

* Documentary featuring Berthod on ''Cobra Crack'' in
Squamish, British Columbia Squamish (; Sḵwx̱wú7mesh sníchim: Sḵwx̱wú7mesh, ; 2016 census population 19,512) is a community and a district municipality in the Canadian province of British Columbia, located at the north end of Howe Sound on the Sea to Sky Highway. ...
: * Documentary on Berthod:


See also

* Dave MacLeod, Scottish traditonal climber * Sonnie Trotter, Canadian traditional climber


References


External links

*
FISSURE: The story of Didier Berthod
"Alp & Ism" Trento Film Festival (2020)

''PlanetMountain'' (2021) {{DEFAULTSORT:Berthod, Didier 1981 births Living people Swiss rock climbers People from Valais Swiss priests