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Sportroccia
Sportroccia was the very first international climbing competition. Four annual Sportroccia editions were held in 1985, 1986, 1988, and 1989, in the village of Bardonecchia and Arco, Trentino, Arco, Italy. History The first edition of Sportroccia was organized in 1985 on the initiative of Andrea Mellano, a strong climber of the '60s and a member of the Italian Academic Alpine Club, and the journalist and writer Emmanuel Cassara. The jury was composed of Riccardo Cassin, Oscar Soravito, Maurizio Zanolla and Heinz Mariacher. The competition was contested on the Parete dei Militi (Wall of the Soldiers) in Valle Stretta, near Bardonecchia. The fact that the races were held on the rock and not on artificial walls put the organizers in the vanguard of several issues that eventually led to moving climbing competitions to artificial walls only. * In 1985 and 1986, Sportroccia was also used to proclaim the Italian champion, giving the title to the best Italian athletes in the competition. ...
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Catherine Destivelle
Catherine Destivelle (born 24 July 1960) is a French rock climbing, rock climber and Mountaineering, mountaineer who is considered one of the greatest and most important female climbers in the history of rock climbing, history of the sport. She came to prominence in the mid-1980s for sport climbing by winning the first major female climbing competitions, and by being the List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Redpointed by women, first female to redpoint (climbing), redpoint a sport climbing route with ''Fleur de Rocaille'' in 1985, and an route with ''Choucas'' in 1988. During this period, she was considered the strongest female sport climber in the world along with Lynn Hill, however, in 1990 she retired to focus on alpine climbing. In 1990, she made the first female alpine ascent of the ''Bonatti Pillar'' on the Aiguille du Dru, Petit Dru, which she followed up in 1991, by becoming the first female to create a new extreme alpine route, also on the Petit Dru, which was named ...
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Lynn Hill
Carolynn Marie Hill (born January 3, 1961) is an American rock climber. Widely regarded as one of the leading competition climbers, traditional climbers (and particularly big wall climbers), sport climbers, and boulderers in the world during the late 1980s and early 1990s, she is famous for making the first free ascent of the difficult sheer rock face of '' The Nose'' on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, and for repeating it the next year in less than 24 hours. She has been described as both one of the best female climbers in the world and one of the best climbers in the history of the sport. Hill was the first-ever female in history to redpoint a , and graded sport climbing route. Hill shaped rock climbing for women and became a public spokesperson, helping it gain wider popularity and arguing for sex equality. Hill has publicized climbing by appearing on television shows and documentaries and writing an autobiography, '' Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World''. Hil ...
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Patrick Edlinger
Patrick Edlinger (15 June 1960 – 16 November 2012) was a professional French rock climber. Edlinger is considered a pioneer and a legend of sport climbing. He was the second-ever climber in history to ascend routes of grade with ''Nymphodalle'' (1979), and grade with ''Le Toit'' (1981). He was the first-ever climber in history to onsight routes of grade with ''Captain crochet'' (1982), and grade with ''La Polka des Ringards'' (1982). Early life Patrick Edlinger was born in 1960 in Dax, Landes, in southwestern France. He was barely a teenager when he began climbing and, after obtaining his first job as a truck driver, decided he loved cliffs more than highways.Davison, Phil (2 December 2012)"Patrick Edlinger: ‘The god of free climbing’ who became a national hero in France" ''The Independent''. Career In 1983 he made the first ascent of ''Ça Glisse Au Pays des Merveilles'' at Buoux, one of the first in France. He won some of the first climbing competitions in hist ...
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Stefan Glowacz
Stefan Glowacz (born March 22, 1965, in Tittmoning) is a German professional rock climber and adventurer. He started climbing at the age of 12 and advanced to one of the world's strongest competition climbers and sport climber a few years later. Since 1993 he has been devoted to natural challenges such as expeditions to remote places in Canada, Patagonia and Antarctica. Competition climbing * 1985 Sportroccia * 1987, 1988, 1992 Rock Master * Winner of the Olympic Games' demonstration challenge in Albertville * 1993 Vice World Champion Notable ascents * In 1994, Glowacz freed ' (translated: ''The Emperor's new Clothes'') in the Kaiser Mountains at (X+/8b+/5.14a), one of the hardest-ever big wall climbing routes in world. * First ascents of big walls at the Una Peaks (Cape Renard Towers) in Antarctica; Tupilak and Ulamartorsuaq, respectively in Eastern and Southern Greenland; and Mount Harrison Smith in Canada * In 2001, Glowacz became the first-ever person to complete t ...
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Climbing Competitions
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner (or the "combined" winner). Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing. In competition lead climbing, competitors start at the bottom of a pre-bolted sport climbing route and lead-climb to touch or secure the highest climbing hold possible within a set time limit on a single attempt, making sure to clip the rope into pre-placed quickdraws while ascending. In competition bouldering, competitors climb short bouldering problems without a rope, with an emphasis on the number of problems completed, and the attempts necessary to do ...
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Climbing Competition
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition climbing disciplines are lead climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. The result of multiple disciplines can be used in a "combined" format to determine an all-round winner (or the "combined" winner). Competition climbing is sometimes called "sport climbing", which is the name given to pre-bolted lead climbing. In competition lead climbing, competitors start at the bottom of a pre-bolted sport climbing route and lead-climb to touch or secure the highest climbing hold possible within a set time limit on a single attempt, making sure to clip the rope into pre-placed quickdraws while ascending. In competition bouldering, competitors climb short bouldering problems without a rope, with an emphasis on the number of problems completed, and the attempts necessary to do so. ...
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Rock Master
Rock Master is an international competition climbing event that is held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight session and the second is called "after work". The final classification is given by the sum of the two events. On Friday the athletes are given a chance to survey the work route, and the actual climbing takes place on Saturday and Sunday. At the competition, two prestigious awards, known as the "Oscars of climbing", are presented: the Salewa Rock Award, and the La Sportiva Competition Award. History In 1985 it was disputed for the first time Sportroccia to Bardonecchia. The following year the event was tied to a stop at the side of the Colodri of Arc. Right on the wall of the Colodri in 1987, played in the first Rock Master. The following year, the race left the rock and from that moment is played only on artificial in a large open space at the base of Colodri. Since 1999, in addition to lead climbing, bouldering and s ...
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Isabelle Patissier
Isabelle Patissier (born March 1, 1967) is a French world champion rock climber and more recently a rally driver. She is known for winning two Lead Climbing World Cups (1990, 1991) and for being the first-ever woman in history to climb an route Climbing career Patissier started climbing at age 5 or 6 with her parents. At 14 she practised mountaineering in Chamonix and also slalom and downhill skiing. In 1986 at the age of 19, she won the first French official climbing competition, taking place in the sportshall in Vaulx-en-Velin only steps from her highschool, climbing barefoot. After this she devoted herself full-time to climbing and in 1988 became both the first woman to climb an 8b (''Sortilèges'' at Cimaï) and French champion. She subsequently won this title a further 3 times. Personal life Between 1993 and 1996 she was married to Nicolas Hulot a TV presenter and writer. In 1995 she retired from climbing. In 2000, she made her motorsport debut in the Rallye Aicha des ...
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Simon Nadin
Simon Nadin (born 10 July 1965) is a British rock climber and professional photographer, who won the first ever IFSC Climbing World Cup in 1989. Climbing Nadin was a climbing all-rounder and pioneered routes which set new levels in climbing. He started climbing on gritstone outcrops, such as The Roaches, near his home in Buxton and using nuts made in his school metalwork lessons. Within a year of starting climbing he was climbing at E6 level and in later years frequently onsight-soloed E4, E5 or harder routes. In 1989, having only been a professional climber for six months, he became the first IFSC Climbing World Cup champion, beating Didier Raboutou at the final round in Lyon, with an audience of 8000 people (Jerry Moffatt finished 3rd). He also came first in that round of the World Cup winning £3000 for this. Nadin was nearly disqualified twice for late arrival due to not seeing instructions put up in the official hotel, as the UK team was staying in a youth hostel. Later ...
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Jerry Moffatt
Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the mid-1980s, and an important climber in the history of the sport. As a sport climber, Moffatt was one of the first climbers in history to onsight routes of grade , , and , and also the first in history to climb routes of grade , and probably . As a competition climber, Moffatt won several of the nascent tour events, and retired ranked first in the world. As a boulder climber, Moffatt was one of the first-ever to solve problems of boulder grade , and . As a traditional climber, Moffatt established some of the most intimidating routes at the time in Britain, which are still rarely repeated, and in particular, the '' Master's Wall'' (E7 6b) in 1983. Moffatt was noted for the intensity of his training, and the co-development of train ...
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Bardonecchia
Bardonecchia (; ; , ) is an Italian town and ''comune'' located in the Metropolitan City of Turin, in the Piedmont region, in the western part of Susa Valley. It grew out of a small village with the works for the Fréjus Rail Tunnel, the first crossing the Alps. The town hosted the Snowboarding at the 2006 Winter Olympics, snowboarding events of the 2006 Winter Olympics. Geography The town, which is located about from Turin at the intersection of four valleys, is surrounded by mountains, including several whose peaks surpass . The historic center is set back and elevated (Borgo Vecchio), while the new part of town was built around the train station (Borgo Nuovo). The town has grown thanks to activities related to customs, logistics, and tourism; as a result, it has incorporated some neighboring villages and thus is one of the largest towns in the Susa Valley. Bardonecchia is at one end of both the Fréjus Road Tunnel and the Fréjus Rail Tunnel, part of a TGV Paris to Mila ...
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Nanette Raybaud
Nanette is a feminine given name, a Dutch language, Dutch, English language, English, and German language, German hypocorism for Anne that is also used as an independent given name. Notable people with the name include: *Nanette Barragán (born 1976), American attorney and politician *Nanette le Besnerais (1896–1981), French tennis player *Nanette Bordeaux (1911–1956), Canadian-born American actress *Nanette Burstein (born 1970), American film and television director *Nanette Carter (born 1954), American artist *Nanette Salomons Cohen (1764–1833), grandmother of Karl Marx *Nanette Cameron (1927–2023), New Zealand interior designer and educator *Nanette Comstock (1866–1942), American actress *Nanette M. DeRenzi, United States Navy admiral *Nan Doak-Davis, Nanette "Nan" Doak-Davis (born 1962), American runner *Nanette Duncan (born 1947), Australian swimmer *Nanette Fabray (1920–2018), American actress, comedian, singer, dancer and activist *Nanette Gartrell, American psych ...
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