A climbing competition (or comp) is usually held indoors on purpose built

climbing wall A climbing wall is an artificially constructed wall with grips for hands and feet, usually used for indoor climbing, but sometimes located outdoors. Some are brick or wooden constructions, but on most modern walls, the material most often used ...

s. There are three main types of climbing competition: lead, speed, and bouldering. In lead climbing, the competitors start at the bottom of a route and must climb it within a certain time frame in a single attempt, making sure to clip the rope into pre-placed quickdraws along the route.

Bouldering Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help sec ...

competitions consist of climbing short problems without rope, with the emphasis on number of problems completed and the attempts necessary to do so.

Speed climbing Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers. Competition speed climbing, which takes place on a ...

can either be an individual or team event, with the person or team that can climb a standardized route the fastest winning. The

International Federation of Sport Climbing The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competitive climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. It was founded in Frankfurt on 27 ...

(IFSC) organizes some of the most important international sport climbing competitions, including the Climbing World Championships and the Climbing World Cup. Sport climbing was featured at the

Summer Olympics The Summer Olympic Games (french: link=no, Jeux olympiques d'été), also known as the Games of the Olympiad, and often referred to as the Summer Olympics, is a major international multi-sport event normally held once every four years. The ina ...

for the first time in

2020 2020 was heavily defined by the COVID-19 pandemic, which led to global social and economic disruption, mass cancellations and postponements of events, worldwide lockdowns and the largest economic recession since the Great Depression in ...

Disciplines

Lead climbing

In lead climbing, competitors climb a long, difficult route designed and set by the

route setter A routesetter is a person who designs artificial rock climbing wall routes, or problems. Also known as "setters", these professionals combine technical craft with an artistic representation of real rock climbing moves. They do this with modul ...

and attempt to reach the top. The climber's performance is determined by the highest hold reached and whether or not that hold was "controlled", meaning the climber achieved a stable position on that hold, or "used", meaning the climber used the hold to make a controlled climbing movement in the interest of progressing along the route. In the case of a tie between athletes, the climber's score from the previous round and/or the time taken to ascend the route is used to break the tie. At championship-level events, lead climbers must climb the route '' on sight''. This means that they are allowed only one attempt, and they are not allowed to see other climbers on the route, or receive any form of advice (

beta Beta (, ; uppercase , lowercase , or cursive ; grc, βῆτα, bē̂ta or ell, βήτα, víta) is the second letter of the Greek alphabet. In the system of Greek numerals, it has a value of 2. In Modern Greek, it represents the voiced labi ...

) from others after the competition has started. Otherwise, later climbers would be able to learn from previous competitors' mistakes, giving them a considerable advantage. Climbers are usually given a limited amount of time to visually inspect the route from ground level before being sequestered.

Speed climbing

Kids climbing competition in Mashhad (4)

Speed is the only factor that counts in a speed climbing event. It is top rope climbing in which competitors climb a slightly overhanging (at 5°) IFSC-certified vertical piste with belaying from the top. Since 2007 the IFSC has created a standard wall layout for the world record. The climbing time is determined by mechanical-electric timing (the competitor strikes a switch at the top of the route); manually timing was allowed as a backup solution until 2018. , Indonesian climber Veddriq Leonardo, holds the men's 15-meter speed world record; 5.208 seconds, set at IFSC World Cup Salt Lake City, USA on 28 May 2021, breaking the record from the fellow Indonesian climber, Kiromal Katibin; 5.258 seconds, at the same day.

Yulia Kaplina Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina (russian: Юлия Владимировна Каплина; born 11 May 1993) is a Russian sport climber who has won multiple speed climbing events and set multiple world records. She was the world record holder in wom ...

from Russia, holds the women's 15-meter speed world record at 6.964 seconds, which was set at IFSC European Championships in Moscow, Russia on 21 November 2020. The team speed discipline was introduced as a medal showcase for the 2011 World Championship. It is a relay competition with teams of three. The teams are made up of 3 athletes of the same sex. Before the 2012 set of rules was introduced, the teams had to be mixed sexes. The race is held on the world record wall split into four lanes, two for each team. The first athlete races to hit the button at the top of the wall, at which point the second athlete climbs the second leg to release the third and final athlete whose final button marks the total time. Speed climbing has been a part of the Combined format in the 2020 Summer Olympics, and will be a standalone event in the

2024 Summer Olympics ) , nations = TBA , athletes = 10,500 ''(quota limit)'' , events = 329 in 32 sports (48 disciplines) , opening = 26 July 2024 , closing = 11 August 2024 , opened_by = , stadium = Stade de France Jardins du Trocadéro and River Seine , summer ...

Bouldering

A bouldering competition consists of climbing on short walls without belay ropes. It differs from lead climbing competitions in that the climber can attempt a route more than once, but like lead climbing they cannot see other climbers on the boulder or receive from others any form of advice after the competition has started. In IFSC and Olympic competitions climbers are given a time of 4 minutes to give as many attempts as they want. Each competitor's score is determined by the overall number of routes finished and the number of attempts needed. Ranking is further subdivided by either a lead-style scoring system or with the use of a "bonus" hold. In a lead-style scoring system the climber is awarded a certain number of points for each hold they reach, with the highest points awarded for a finished route. The IFSC and Olympic competitions use a bonus hold called the "Zone"; the number of attempts to reach the Zone (if reached) further stratifies the competitors.

Main competitions

Some of the most widely known international competitions are administered by the

, including: * The Climbing World Championship * The Climbing World Cup * The European Championships. Other widely known international competitions are: * Sportroccia, the first-ever full International climbing competition, held in 1985, 1986, 1988, and 1989. *

Rock Master Rock Master is an international climbing competition held every year in Arco, Italy. The event takes place in two rounds: the first is an on-sight __NOTOC__ This glossary of climbing terms is a list of definitions of terms and jargon related ...

Sport climbing at the World Games Sport climbing is part of the World Games The World Games are an international multi-sport event comprising sports and sporting disciplines that are not contested in the Olympic Games. They are usually held every four years, one year after a S ...

Melloblocco Melloblocco is an international bouldering competition, which is held annually in Val Masino and Val di Mello since 2004. History The 2011 edition, the eighth time the competition was hosted, had 2600 participants from 22 different countries. Th ...

In the

United States The United States of America (U.S.A. or USA), commonly known as the United States (U.S. or US) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It consists of 50 U.S. state, states, a Washington, D.C., federal district, five ma ...

, the

American Bouldering Series USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. It promotes competition climbing in the United States in the disciplines of bouldering, lead climbing, and speed climbing, in elite, youth and ...

organizes regional, divisional and national events.

Olympic games

In August 2016 it was announced that climbing would be included in the 2020 Olympics. Athletes were be competing in a combined format; their lead, speed, and bouldering results were combined to determine the winners. The winners of the combined format were Alberto Ginés López for men and Janja Garnbret for women. For 2024 the format will be changed and divide the three disciplines into two events - one with combined bouldering and lead climbing, and one with speed climbing as a standalone event. The point awarding system will also be changed, with points being awarded based on individual performances instead of position based system used in the sports' debut at the event.

Youth climbing

The main international youth climbing competitions are organized by the

, including: * The IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships * The IFSC Climbing European World Cup In the United States, youth climbing is organized by USA Climbing (USAC).

References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Climbing competition * Individual sports Types of climbing