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Piece Goods
Piece goods were the textile materials sold in cut pieces as per the buyer's specification. The piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or produced with a certain length, also called yard goods. Various textiles such as cotton, wool, silk, etc., were traded in terms of piece goods. The prices were determined as per the fabric quality. John Forbes Watson classified Indian textiles into two types: piece goods and loom goods. Piece goods are materials that must be cut and sewn before they can be used, whereas loom goods, such as scarves and Saris, are ready to use after leaving the loom. Production Many Indian clothes were ready to wear after leaving the loom. These were simple pieces of cloth of dimensions suited to the purposes. Lungi, Dhoti, and Sari are few specific examples of Draped garment, drape clothes. Other cloths produced according to specified dimensions are: * Longcloth made at Coromandel Coast was of the length of 37 yards or 37 to 40 yards. * Qutni at Damas ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Shawls
A shawl (from ''shāl'') is a simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular piece of cloth, but can also be square or triangular in shape. Other shapes include oblong shawls. History Kashmir was a pivotal point in the history of the shawl, serving as the birthplace of one of the most coveted garments in the world. Perhaps the most widely known woven textiles are the famed Kashmir shawls. The ''Kanikar'', for instance, has intricately woven designs that are formalized imitations of nature. The ''Chinar'' leaf (plane tree ''Platanus'' ( ) is a genus consisting of a small number of tree species native to the Northern Hemisphere. They are the sole living members of the family Platanaceae. All mature members of ''Platanus'' are tall, reaching in height. The type ... leaf), ''apple and cherry blossoms'', the ''rose and tulip'', the ''almond and pear'', the ''nightingale''—these a ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Chautar
Chautar or Chaotaer (Cotton cloth) is an old cotton fabric of the Mughal period. The chautar was a mulmul variety, and the finest mulmul was termed as "Mulmul Shahi" in Hindi and Persian languages. It was produced in Eastern India. Way back, Chittagong was exporting this cloth. Conceivably then cloths were produced in smaller pieces only since the Chautar is described as a piece good. It has been recorded with specific dimensions, i.e., length 12.44 meters and width 77.75 centimeters. Chautar was compared with ''sansuo'', which was a three shuttle cloth, type of fine cotton variety produced at Songjiang . Cloths with similar names "Chowtars" (means four wires) were characterised as cloth made with four warp and weft threads on both sides. "Chautahi" a "four folded cloth" was a quality more often used in the Punjab region. Special mentions * Ma Huan a Chinese voyager also referred Chautar. In the 1431 expedition, he visited Bengal, Chittagong, Sonargaon, Gaur and Calicut ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Ghalta
was an old Hindustani fabric made of silk and cotton. Additionally, it was given the name " Azamgarh Satinette." According to John Shakespear, Ghalta was also referred to "a thick sort of cloth." Weave Ghalta was a mixed cloth made of silk and cotton yarns. Ghalta had a standard length of 9 yards and a width of 26 inches. The word "Ghalta" derives from the Persian which means "to roll." The cloth was finished with hot cylinders to give it a smooth glazed aesthetic. It was calendered and pressed so firmly on the surface that no cotton yarns could be seen, while the back side of the fabric shows all cotton yarns with little silk. Ghalta has a characterised check pattern that is bound with one, two, or three lines, and the portion in between the one direction may be filled with another (different than the rest of the fabric) coloured silk that creates a combination of checks and stripes. There were more patterns as well. Use Ladies preferred plain Ghalta in pink shades, whi ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Northern Circars
The Northern Circars (also spelt Sarkars) was a division of British India's Madras Presidency. It consisted of a narrow slip of territory lying along the western side of the Bay of Bengal from 15° 40′ to 20° 17′ north latitude, in the present-day Indian states of Andhra Pradesh and Odisha. The Subah of Deccan (Hyderabad/Golconda) consisted of 22 circars. These northern circars were five in number and the most prominent ones in the Subah. They became British in a protracted piecemeal process lasting from 1758 to 1823, involving diplomacy and financial settlements rather than military conquest. The annexation by the British of the Northern Circars deprived Hyderabad State, the Nizam's dominion, of the considerable coastline it formerly had, assuming the shape it is now remembered for that of a landlocked princely state with territories in Central Deccan, bounded on all sides by British India. Etymology ''Circar'' was an English spelling of ''sarkar'', a Mughal term ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Punjum
Punjum (panjam, pŭn′jŭm; pun jum) was a type of Indian cotton cloth. It was produced in the Northern Circars, on the Coromandel Coastal region in South East India. Punjum was a kind of cotton longcloth that was produced in a variety of thread counts. Varieties of punjum Punjum was a woven fabric structure with an unusually strong texture. It was manufactured with a variety of widths from coarser to finer qualities (The finer the threads the greater number of punjums were contained in the breadth up to 40). There were Punjums available with a 120-thread count . A Punjum was regarded as a sign of quality, there were different numbers assigned for different grades ranging from 10,12,14,16, 18 up to 40.The lowest and coarse was called number 10. Later, Baramauhal successfully duplicated an imitation of Punjum which was a cloth with a lower thread count and half the length of the former. It was named Salampore. Dimensions John Forbes Watson used sample 466 to show Punjum ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Man-cheti
Man cheti was a “ginger yellow” cotton cloth made in India in the 15th century. Made in lengths of fifty feet and a width of four feet or more, it was a closely woven cloth with a sturdy construction. Mentions (Ma Huan's account of Bengal) Chinese translator, voyager and writer Ma Huan Ma Huan (, Xiao'erjing: ) ( 1380–1460), courtesy name Zongdao (), pen name Mountain-woodcutter (會稽山樵), was a Chinese explorer, translator, and travel writer who accompanied Admiral Zheng He on three of his seven expeditions to the We ... noted ''Man - chê - ti'' in addition to other Indian cotton varieties in his account of Bengal. References Woven fabrics Cotton {{Textile-stub ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Muslin
Muslin () is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. It is commonly believed that it gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq. Muslin was produced in different regions of the Indian subcontinent; Bengal Region was the main manufacturing area and the main centers were Sonargaon (near Dhaka), Shantipur and Murshidabad. Muslin was also produced in Malda and Hooghly. The muslin produced at Sonargaon and its surrounding areas was of excellent quality, which is popularly known as ''Dhaka Muslin''. The muslin produced in Shantipur came to be known as ''Shantipuri Muslin'', which was recognized by the East India Company. Muslin was made in Dhaka (Sonargaon) from very fine yarn, which is made from cotton called '' Phuti karpas''; while in Malda, Radhanagar and Burdwan, muslin was made from fine yarn made from ''nurma'' or ''kaur'' cotton. A minimum of 300-count yarn was used for the muslin, making the muslin as t ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Mulboos Khas
Mulboos khas was a special kind of mulmul cloth made for the King and used for Royal clothing in the Mughal Empire. The Mulboos khas was a kind of first-grade muslin exclusively manufactured in Royal Karkhanas (''Mulboos khas kootees'') notedly in places like Dacca, Sonargaon, Jangalbaree. Nur Jahan, the empress, was a great admirer of Dacca muslins. Mulboos khas was the finest and most expensive type of muslin, and it was used exclusively in Imperial use. History Mulboos Khas was an item of gift exchanged between the emperors and nobles. Murshid Quli Khan who was the first Nawab of Bengal was used to send Mulboos khas to Aurangzeb. It was also sent to Delhi for the Royal use. The contemporary quality was "Sarkar-i-Ali," which was used for lower hierarchy. Characteristics Mulboos khas was a piece material with 10 yards X 1-yard dimensions when produced of half-length. It was having 1800-1900 threads in warp. "Malmal khas" was the successor of Mulbool khas. See also * ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Khasa (cloth)
Khasa (Cossa, Cossaes) was a high-quality variety of calico cloth that was manufactured and used for clothing in the Mughal Empire. Name Khasa or means special. Khasa was termed “kashak” in the Ain-i-Akbari, and was also known as 'jangal klasa' for its fine close weave. Khasa is one of seven cotton cloths named in the Ain-i-Akbari. Features Khasa was a cotton fabric softer than longcloth and more closely woven than muslin. It is described as having been soft and closely woven, with a fine texture. In the 16th-century emperor Akbar's time, khasa was considered to be one of the best and most expensive types of cotton cloth. It was commonly used for turbans in the Mughal era. Dimensions Khasa, like other piece goods, were produced with specific dimensions; regular khasas were having dimensions of 20 x 1 or 1.5 yards. The number of threads was in warp direction were 1400–2800 with the weight of 595 grams /pc (with 2800 threads). Production centers Khasa made in ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Sussi (cloth)
Sussi or susi (Soosey, Sousae) is a term for multicolored Stripe (pattern), striped or Check (pattern), checked cloth produced mainly in Sindh. Sussi is thin Loom, handloom fabric made of cotton, silk, or a blend of the two, with colored Warp and weft, warp stripes. Sindh region was known for its production and exports during the Mughal Empire, Mughal period. Sussi was most often made with red and blue, blue and white, or green and white stripes, but other patterns were also produced. The fabric was exported to England, where sousaes were in great demand in the 18th century. Name Sussi was the Hyponymy and hypernymy, umbrella term used for all striped fabrics. Texture Sussi is a plain fabric with Warp and weft, warp vertical Stripe (pattern), stripes. Sussi is produced with cotton, with silk, or with Textile, blended cotton and silk. Dimensions The fabric was 10 to 20 yards long and one yard in width. Sussi Types and Production Sussi along with other cotton varieties is ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Salampore
Salampore (salempore) was a kind of cotton cloth produced in India. It had been in use since the 17th century and was exported to Europe and Africa.''There were three staple varieties of cotton cloth manufactured in Coromandel - longcloth, salempores and moris . These three varieties accounted for by far the largest volume of export and were extensively woven in looms from North to South ...''Merchants, Companies, and Commerce on the Coromandel Coast Page 98 Exports Salempores was part of a varied collection of cloths such as long cloth, moris, and cloth with gold thread exported to various foreign locations like Bantam, Manila, and London from the Coromandel Coast. It was also exported to Africa and South America. Production Salampore was produced at various locations of India from north to down south. Pattern It was a colored woven cloth with stripe and check designs. Few sources also describe it as broad white or blue cotton fabric. Cloth for slaves It was also call ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Gulbadan (silk Cloth)
''Gulbadan'' (silk cloth) was a kind of striped silk produced in Hindustan. The gulbadan ( literal meaning a body like the rose ) was a light textured cloth of silk and cotton. Gulbadan has vertical variegated stripes with a different color than the base color of the cloth. In appearance, it was similar to a glazed calico, unlike ''Mashru'', which has the satin (lustrous) surface.The contemporary silk piece goods were ''Daryai'' (plain silk) and ''Dhupehan'' (shot silk). Gulbadan was available in many color combinations and sizes. Gulbadan of Amritsar and Lahore were famous. "Sufi" was another name for Gulbadan striped fabric. A type Sohren Gulbadan was prepared with specific dimensions, i.e., 36 feet long and 1 foot and 4 inches wide. Texture Unlike its name, the fabric was ordinary and usually thick. The surface feels like a peach with no to less luster. Use Gulbadan was mainly used for pajamas. Sohren Gulbadan was used in ladies' shirts and trousers. See also * Kimkhwa ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
