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Khasa (cloth)
Khasa (Cossa, Cossaes) was a high-quality variety of calico cloth that was manufactured and used for clothing in the Mughal Empire. Name Khasa or means special. Khasa was termed “kashak” in the Ain-i-Akbari, and was also known as 'jangal klasa' for its fine close weave. Khasa is one of seven cotton cloths named in the Ain-i-Akbari. Features Khasa was a cotton fabric softer than longcloth and more closely woven than muslin. It is described as having been soft and closely woven, with a fine texture. In the 16th-century emperor Akbar's time, khasa was considered to be one of the best and most expensive types of cotton cloth. It was commonly used for turbans in the Mughal era. Dimensions Khasa, like other piece goods, were produced with specific dimensions; regular khasas were having dimensions of 20 x 1 or 1.5 yards. The number of threads was in warp direction were 1400–2800 with the weight of 595 grams /pc (with 2800 threads). Production centers Khasa made in ...
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Calico
Calico (; in British usage since 1505) is a heavy plain-woven textile made from unbleached, and often not fully processed, cotton. It may also contain unseparated husk parts. The fabric is far coarser than muslin, but less coarse and thick than canvas or denim. However, it is still very cheap owing to its unfinished and undyed appearance. The fabric was originally from the city of Calicut in southwestern India. It was made by the traditional weavers called cāliyans. The raw fabric was dyed and printed in bright hues, and calico prints became popular in Europe. History Origins Calico originated in Calicut, from which the name of the textile came, in South India, now Kerala, during the 11th century, where the cloth was known as "chaliyan". It was mentioned in Indian literature by the 12th century when the polymath and writer Hemachandra described calico fabric prints with a lotus design.''Encyclopædia Britannica'' (2008)"calico" Calico was woven using Gujarati cotton from Su ...
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Mughal Empire
The Mughal Empire was an Early modern period, early modern empire in South Asia. At its peak, the empire stretched from the outer fringes of the Indus River Basin in the west, northern Afghanistan in the northwest, and Kashmir in the north, to the highlands of present-day Assam and Bangladesh in the east, and the uplands of the Deccan Plateau in South India.. Quote: "The realm so defined and governed was a vast territory of some , ranging from the frontier with Central Asia in northern Afghanistan to the northern uplands of the Deccan plateau, and from the Indus basin on the west to the Assamese highlands in the east." The Mughal Empire is conventionally said to have been founded in 1526 by Babur, a Tribal chief, chieftain from what is today Uzbekistan, who employed aid from the neighboring Safavid Iran, Safavid and Ottoman Empires Quote: "Babur then adroitly gave the Ottomans his promise not to attack them in return for their military aid, which he received in the form of the ...
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Ain-i-Akbari
The ''Ain-i-Akbari'' (), or the "Administration of Akbar", is a 16th-century detailed document regarding the administration of the Mughal Empire under Emperor Akbar, written by his court historian, Abu'l Fazl, in the Persian language. It forms Volume III and the final part of the much larger document, the '' Akbarnama'' (''Account of Akbar''), also by Abu'l-Fazl, and is itself in three volumes. Contents The ''Ain-i-Akbari'' is the third volume of the ''Akbarnama'' containing information on Akbar's reign in the form of administrative reports, similar to a gazetteer. In Blochmann's explanation, "it contains the 'āīn' (i.e. mode of governing) of Emperor Akbar, and is the administrative report and statistical return of his government as it was about 1590."Blochmann, H. (tr.) (1927, reprint 1993). ''The Ain-I Akbari by Abu'l-Fazl Allami'', Vol. I, Calcutta: The Asiatic Society, preface (first edition) The ''Ain-i-Akbari'' is divided into five books. The first book called manzil- ...
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Longcloth
Longcloth (or long cloth) refers to a plain cotton cloth originally made in comparatively long pieces. The name was applied particularly to cloth made in India. The long cloth made at Coromandel Coast was of the length of 37 yards. Longcloth, which is now commonly bleached, includes several various qualities. It is heavier than cambric, and finer than medium or Mexican. In the early 1900s, as it was used principally for underclothing and shirts, most of the longcloth sold in Great Britain passed through the shirt and underclothing manufacturers' hands who sold it to the shopkeepers. However, there was still considerable if decreasing retail trade-in piece-goods. In the UK in the early 20th century, the lower kinds of longcloth, which were made from American cotton, corresponded in quality to the better kinds of shirting made for the East, but the best longcloths were made from Egyptian cotton and were fine and fairly costly goods. Nowadays, longcloth designates a cotton fabric w ...
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Muslin
Muslin () is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. It is commonly believed that it gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq. Muslin was produced in different regions of the Indian subcontinent; Bengal Region was the main manufacturing area and the main centers were Sonargaon (near Dhaka), Shantipur and Murshidabad. Muslin was also produced in Malda and Hooghly. The muslin produced at Sonargaon and its surrounding areas was of excellent quality, which is popularly known as ''Dhaka Muslin''. The muslin produced in Shantipur came to be known as ''Shantipuri Muslin'', which was recognized by the East India Company. Muslin was made in Dhaka (Sonargaon) from very fine yarn, which is made from cotton called '' Phuti karpas''; while in Malda, Radhanagar and Burdwan, muslin was made from fine yarn made from ''nurma'' or ''kaur'' cotton. A minimum of 300-count yarn was used for the muslin, making the muslin as t ...
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Woven Fabric
Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics, often created on a loom, are made of many threads woven in a warp and weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Woven fabrics can be made of natural fibers, synthetic fibers, or a mixture of both, such as cotton and polyester. Woven fabrics are used for clothing, garments, decorations, furniture, carpets and other uses. Production process Yarn preparation Fibers are spun into yarns and prepared with specific properties tailored for either the warp (longitudinal yarns) or the weft (transverse yarns). Warping The warp yarns are arranged on a beam to prepare for weaving. The warp threads are held taut and parallel, and as such must be strong and durable. Weaving During weaving, the weft yarn passes over and under the warp yarns in various patterns. The primary types of weaves are plain weave, twill weave, and satin weave. These basic ...
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Akbar
Akbar (Jalal-ud-din Muhammad Akbar, – ), popularly known as Akbar the Great, was the third Mughal emperor, who reigned from 1556 to 1605. Akbar succeeded his father, Humayun, under a regent, Bairam Khan, who helped the young emperor expand and consolidate Mughal domains in the Indian subcontinent. He is generally considered one of the greatest emperors in Indian history and led a successful campaign to unify the various kingdoms of '' Hindūstān'' or India proper. Quote: "Akbar, The greatest Mughal emperor of India." Akbar gradually enlarged the Mughal Empire to include much of the Indian subcontinent through Mughal military, political, cultural, and economic dominance. To unify the vast Mughal state, Akbar established a centralised system of administration and adopted a policy of conciliating conquered rulers through marriage and diplomacy. To preserve peace and order in a religiously and culturally diverse empire, he adopted policies that won him the support of his no ...
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Piece Goods
Piece goods were the textile materials sold in cut pieces as per the buyer's specification. The piece goods were either cut from a fabric roll or produced with a certain length, also called yard goods. Various textiles such as cotton, wool, silk, etc., were traded in terms of piece goods. The prices were determined as per the fabric quality. John Forbes Watson classified Indian textiles into two types: piece goods and loom goods. Piece goods are materials that must be cut and sewn before they can be used, whereas loom goods, such as scarves and Saris, are ready to use after leaving the loom. Production Many Indian clothes were ready to wear after leaving the loom. These were simple pieces of cloth of dimensions suited to the purposes. Lungi, Dhoti, and Sari are few specific examples of Draped garment, drape clothes. Other cloths produced according to specified dimensions are: * Longcloth made at Coromandel Coast was of the length of 37 yards or 37 to 40 yards. * Qutni at Damas ...
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Sonargaon
Sonargaon (; ; Literary translation, lit. ''Golden Hamlet (place), Hamlet'') is a historic city in central Bangladesh. It corresponds to the Sonargaon Upazila of Narayanganj District in Dhaka Division. Sonargaon is one of the old capitals of the historic region of Bengal and was an administrative center of eastern Bengal. It was also a river port. Its hinterland was the center of the muslin trade in Bengal, with a large population of weavers and artisans. According to Greco-Roman world, ancient Greek and Roman accounts, an Emporium (antiquity), emporium was located in this hinterland, which archaeologists have now identified with the Wari-Bateshwar ruins of the Gangaridai, Gangaridai Empire. The area was a base for the Vanga Kingdom, Vanga, Gangaridai, Samatata, Sena dynasty, Sena, and Deva dynasty, Deva dynasties. Sonargaon gained importance during the Delhi Sultanate. It was the capital of the Sonargaon Sultanate ruled by Fakhruddin Mubarak Shah and his son Ikhtiyaruddin Gha ...
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Dacca
Dhaka ( or ; , ), List of renamed places in Bangladesh, formerly known as Dacca, is the capital city, capital and list of cities and towns in Bangladesh, largest city of Bangladesh. It is one of the list of largest cities, largest and list of cities proper by population density, most densely populated cities in the world with a density of about 34,000 citizens per square kilometers within a total area of approximately 300 square kilometers. Dhaka is a megacity, and has a population of 10.2 million residents as of 2024, and a population of over 23.9 million residents in Greater Dhaka, Dhaka Metropolitan Area. It is widely considered to be the most densely populated built-up urban area in the world. Dhaka is an important cultural, economic, and scientific hub of Eastern South Asia, as well as a major list of largest cities in the Organisation of Islamic Cooperation member countries, Muslim-majority city. Dhaka ranks list of cities by GDP, third in South Asia and 39th in the worl ...
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Malda District
Malda district, also spelt Maldah or Maldaha (, , often ), is a district in West Bengal, India. The capital of the Bengal Sultanate, Gauda and Pandua, was situated in this district. Mango, jute and silk are the most notable products of this district. The special variety of mango, Fazli, produced in this region is popularly known by the name of the district and is exported across the world and is internationally acclaimed. The folk culture of gombhira is a feature of the district, being a unique way of representation of joy and sorrow in daily life of the common people, as well as the unique medium of presentation on national and international matters. According to the National Investigation Agency Malda is believed to be a hub of a fake currency racket. It is reported that 90 per cent of the fake currency that enters India originates in Malda. The headquarters of Malda district is in English Bazar, also known as ''Malda'', which was once the capital of Bengal. The dist ...
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Shantipur
Shantipur is a city and a municipality in the Ranaghat subdivision of Nadia district in the Indian States and territories of India, state of West Bengal. The fort area of this city, also known as Daak-Garh (calling or gathering room) is thought to have been built by Raja Krishnachandra of Nadia. Geography Location Santipur is located at . It has an average elevation of 15 metres (49 feet). Santipur is famous for handloom sarees from ancient times. After the partition of India, many weavers came from Dhaka of Bangladesh and started to reside here in Phulia region, which is a Panchayat area of Santipur. Area overview Nadia district is mostly alluvial plains lying to the east of Hooghly River, locally known as Bhagirathi. The alluvial plains are cut across by such distributaries as Jalangi, Churni and Ichhamati. With these rivers getting silted up, floods are a recurring feature. The Ranaghat subdivision has the Hooghly River, Bhagirathi on the west, with Purba Bardha ...
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