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Tailoring
A tailor is a person who makes or alters clothing, particularly in men's clothing. The Oxford English Dictionary dates the term to the thirteenth century. History Although clothing construction goes back to prehistory, there is evidence of tailor shops in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome, Rome, as well as tailoring tools such as Clothes iron, irons and Scissors, shears. The profession of tailor in Europe became formalized in the High Middle Ages through the establishment of guilds. Tailors' guilds instituted a system of master craftsman, masters, journeyman, journeymen, and apprentices. Guild members established rules to limit competition and establish quality standards. In 1244, members of the tailor's guild in Bologna established statutes to govern their profession and required anyone working as a tailor to join the guild. In England, the Statute of Artificers 1562, Statute of Artificers, passed in 1563, included the profession of tailor as one of the trades that could be ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Neapolitan Tailoring
Neapolitan tailoring was born as an attempt to loosen up the stiffness of Savile Row tailoring, English tailoring, which did not suit the Neapolitan lifestyle or climate. Vincenzo Attolini, the master tailor at London House in Napoli, created the Neapolitan look featuring slim lines, high armholes, and soft-shouldered jackets. His son, Cesare Attolini, helped to promote the Neapolitan silhouette beyond Italy. Characteristics * The Shoulders: the Neapolitan jacket has no shoulder padding. Neapolitan tailors removed the shoulder padding from their jackets to provide more movement freedom. For this reason, the Neapolitan shoulder on informal jackets is sewn like a shirt sleeve (), and it follows the natural curve of the human body rather than giving it shape. This type of sleeve is cut about 10 cm larger than the armhole, and it can be finished with the – that shirring the tailor creates with the extra fabric. This little flair is known as and gives the jacket a "rugged" ap ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Frederick Scholte
Friedrich "Frederick" Petrus Scholte (19 July 1865 – 2 December 1948) was a Dutch-born British tailor known for the drape suit, a cut he introduced in the 1930s while a master tailor on London's Savile Row. He was considered a pioneer in 20th-century menswear as tailor to fashion icon Edward VIII from 1919–1948. Early life Scholte was born in Amsterdam to Johann Friedrich Scholte, who was of paternal German descent, and Johanna Cornelia Jacoba van Klaveren. He emigrated to London in the 1880s. Viscount Ridley sponsored his naturalisation process in 1899. Career Scholte operated his own tailoring house on Savile Row in Mayfair, London. He served as an apprentice tailor to the Household Cavalry and adapted three characteristics of their military uniform into: wide shoulders, roomy armholes, and narrow waists. In 1917, '' Tailor & Cutter'' magazine praised the outstanding craftsmanship of Scholte's tailoring at his shop on Savile Row, which overlooked Henry Poole & Co.: ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Henry Poole & Co
Henry Poole & Co. is a bespoke tailor located on Savile Row in London, United Kingdom. In the 1860s, it is widely-believed to have designed the first modern-style dinner jacket, according to specifications provided by the Prince of Wales (later Edward VII). Some call the company “the founding father of Savile Row”. Its headquarters is at 15 Savile Row. History The business first opened in Brunswick Square in 1806, originally specializing in military tailoring around the Battle of Waterloo. After the death of founder James Poole, it relocated to Savile Row in 1846. Henry Poole ran the business until his death in 1876, after which his cousin, Samuel Cundey, took over. The company has remained in the control of the Cundey family through five generations, with current chairman Simon Cundey having assumed the position after the passing of his father in August 2024. The company holds royal warrants of appointment and supplies the Lord Chamberlain’s office with court dres ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Cesare Attolini
Cesare Attolini is a high-luxury menswear brand founded in Casalnuovo di Napoli the 1930s by Vincenzo Attolini, the creator of the Neapolitan tailoring style. Overview Vincenzo Attolini created the Neapolitan silhouette featuring a slim waist, high armholes, generous sleeve-head, and minimal shoulder padding. His son Cesare Attolini established the system to produce at scale and market the brand. The brand is run by Vincenzo Attolini's grandsons Giuseppe and Massimiliano Attolini, who are responsible for the brand's expansion internationally. Shops Retail locations are in Milan on Via Bagutta, Miami Beach at the Bal Harbour Shops, New York City on Madison Avenue, London on Mount Street in Mayfair, Monaco, and Moscow (Tverskaya Street Tverskaya Street ( rus, Тверская улица, p=tvʲɪrˈskajə ˈulʲɪt͡sə), known between 1935 and 1990 as Gorky Street (), is the main radial road, radial street in Moscow. The street runs Northwest from the central Mane ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Drape Suit
Drape suits are a British variation of the three-piece suit introduced in the 1930s, in which the cut is full and "drapes". It is also known as the blade cut or London cut. The design of the athletic aesthetic of the drape suit is attributed to the London tailor Frederick Scholte. The new suit cut was softer and more flexible in construction than the suits of the previous generation; extra fabric in the shoulder and armscye, light padding, a slightly nipped waist, and fuller sleeves tapered at the wrist resulted in a cut with folds, or "drapes," front and back that created the illusion of the broad-shoulders and tight-waist "V" figure of the very fit. Historical background Most changes in menswear occur slowly and subtly, until the shift becomes noticeably different. This noticeably different change occurs some time after the transition had begun. In comparison, changes in women's fashions are fast and each alteration noticeable almost immediately as it occurs. English tailoring ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Seamstress At Work
A dressmaker, also known as a seamstress, is a person who makes clothing for women, such as dresses, blouses, and evening gowns. Dressmakers were historically known as mantua-makers, and are also known as a modiste or fabrician. Notable dressmakers * Cristóbal Balenciaga * Pierre Balmain *Coco Chanel *Christian Dior * David Emanuel * Norman Hartnell, royal dressmaker * Elizabeth Keckley, modiste and confidante to Mary Todd Lincoln * Jean Muir, fashion designer * Madame Palmyre, a favorite designer and dressmaker of Eugénie, empress of France * Anna and Laura Tirocchi, Providence, Rhode Island * Isabel Toledo * Madeleine Vionnet * R'Bonney Gabriel, fashion designer and beauty queen of Miss Universe 2022 * Mak Tumang, fashion designer * Michael Cinco, fashion designer * Janet Walker, costumier and dress-making-bust inventor * Charles Frederick Worth Related terms * "Dressmaker" denotes clothing made in the style of a dressmaker, frequently in the term "dressmaker detail ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Penal Transportation
Penal transportation (or simply transportation) was the relocation of convicted criminals, or other persons regarded as undesirable, to a distant place, often a colony, for a specified term; later, specifically established penal colonies became their destination. While the prisoners may have been released once the sentences were served, they generally did not have the resources to return home. Origin and implementation Banishment or forced exile from a polity or society has been used as a punishment since at least the 5th century BCE in Ancient Greece. The practice of penal transportation reached its height in the British Empire during the 18th and 19th centuries. Transportation removed the offender from society, mostly permanently, but was seen as more merciful than capital punishment. This method was used for criminals, debtors, military prisoners, and political prisoners. Penal transportation was also used as a method of colonization. For example, from the earliest day ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Italy
Italy, officially the Italian Republic, is a country in Southern Europe, Southern and Western Europe, Western Europe. It consists of Italian Peninsula, a peninsula that extends into the Mediterranean Sea, with the Alps on its northern land border, as well as List of islands of Italy, nearly 800 islands, notably Sicily and Sardinia. Italy shares land borders with France to the west; Switzerland and Austria to the north; Slovenia to the east; and the two enclaves of Vatican City and San Marino. It is the List of European countries by area, tenth-largest country in Europe by area, covering , and the third-most populous member state of the European Union, with nearly 59 million inhabitants. Italy's capital and List of cities in Italy, largest city is Rome; other major cities include Milan, Naples, Turin, Palermo, Bologna, Florence, Genoa, and Venice. The history of Italy goes back to numerous List of ancient peoples of Italy, Italic peoples—notably including the ancient Romans, ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Anderson & Sheppard
Anderson & Sheppard is a bespoke tailor on Savile Row, London, established in the Row in 1906. In 2005, its shop moved to Old Burlington Street and has remained there since. It also sells ready-made menswear from its shop in nearby Clifford Street and online. Since 2004, it has been owned by Anda Rowland who inherited it from her father. Clientele Former clients have included Fred Astaire, Gary Cooper, Noël Coward, and Bryan Ferry. Anderson & Sheppard kept Prince Charles in double breasted suits for years. In 2004, Tom Ford became a customer of the firm, commissioning suits that would later appear in a ''W'' magazine photo shoot. Female clients have included Fran Lebowitz and Marlene Dietrich Marie Magdalene "Marlene" DietrichBorn as Maria Magdalena, not Marie Magdalene, according to Dietrich's biography by her daughter, Maria Riva ; however, Dietrich's biography by Charlotte Chandler cites "Marie Magdalene" as her birth name . (, ; .... References External links ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Masculine
Masculinity (also called manhood or manliness) is a set of attributes, behaviors, and roles generally associated with men and boys. Masculinity can be theoretically understood as socially constructed, and there is also evidence that some behaviors considered masculine are influenced by both cultural factors and biological factors. To what extent masculinity is biologically or socially influenced is subject to debate. It is distinct from the definition of the biological male sex, as anyone can exhibit masculine traits. Standards of masculinity vary across different cultures and historical periods. In Western cultures, its meaning is traditionally drawn from being contrasted with femininity. Overview Standards of manliness or masculinity vary across different cultures, subcultures, ethnic groups and historical periods. Traits traditionally viewed as masculine in Western society include strength, courage, independence, leadership, dominance, and assertiveness.Thomas, R. ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
United Kingdom
The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom (UK) or Britain, is a country in Northwestern Europe, off the coast of European mainland, the continental mainland. It comprises England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. The UK includes the island of Great Britain, the north-eastern part of the island of Ireland, and most of List of islands of the United Kingdom, the smaller islands within the British Isles, covering . Northern Ireland shares Republic of Ireland–United Kingdom border, a land border with the Republic of Ireland; otherwise, the UK is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean, the North Sea, the English Channel, the Celtic Sea and the Irish Sea. It maintains sovereignty over the British Overseas Territories, which are located across various oceans and seas globally. The UK had an estimated population of over 68.2 million people in 2023. The capital and largest city of both England and the UK is London. The cities o ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
History Of Sewing Patterns
A sewing pattern is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto woven or knitted fabrics before being cut out and assembled. Patterns are usually made of paper, and are sometimes made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to withstand repeated use. Before the mid-19th century, many women sewed their own clothing by hand. Factory-produced fabrics were affordable and available in the early 19th century, but easy-to-use dress patterns and sewing machines for the home seamstress were not sold in the United States until the 1850s. Early publications The earliest sewing patterns for the public were published in books, trade magazines, journals, and other periodicals. Full-size pattern sheets suitable for tracing were sometimes included in women's periodicals from around 1770 on. In 1808, ''The Lady's Economical Assistant'' was published in England, providing full-sized sewing patterns that could be traced. Other early pu ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
