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Neapolitan Tailoring
Neapolitan tailoring was born as an attempt to loosen up the stiffness of Savile Row tailoring, English tailoring, which did not suit the Neapolitan lifestyle or climate. Vincenzo Attolini, the master tailor at London House in Napoli, created the Neapolitan look featuring slim lines, high armholes, and soft-shouldered jackets. His son, Cesare Attolini, helped to promote the Neapolitan silhouette beyond Italy. Characteristics * The Shoulders: the Neapolitan jacket has no shoulder padding. Neapolitan tailors removed the shoulder padding from their jackets to provide more movement freedom. For this reason, the Neapolitan shoulder on informal jackets is sewn like a shirt sleeve (), and it follows the natural curve of the human body rather than giving it shape. This type of sleeve is cut about 10 cm larger than the armhole, and it can be finished with the – that shirring the tailor creates with the extra fabric. This little flair is known as and gives the jacket a "rugged" ap ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Savile Row Tailoring
Savile Row tailoring is men and women's bespoke tailoring that takes place on Savile Row and neighbouring streets in Mayfair, Central London. In 1846, Henry Poole, credited as being the "Founder of Savile Row", opened an entrance to his tailoring premises at No. 32 Savile Row. The term ''bespoke'' is understood to have originated in Savile Row when cloth for a suit was said to "be spoken for" by individual customers. The short street has been termed the "golden mile of tailoring", where customers have included Charles III, Winston Churchill, Lord Nelson, Napoleon III, Muhammad Ali Jinnah, Laurence Olivier and Duke Ellington. In 1969, Nutters of Savile Row modernised the style and approach of the traditional tailors; a modernisation which continued in the 1990s with the arrival of designers including Richard James, Ozwald Boateng and Timothy Everest. With increasing rents the number of tailoring businesses on Savile Row had declined to 19 by 2006. There were also critici ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Napoli
Naples ( ; ; ) is the regional capital of Campania and the third-largest city of Italy, after Rome and Milan, with a population of 908,082 within the city's administrative limits as of 2025, while its province-level municipality is the third most populous metropolitan city in Italy with a population of 2,958,410 residents, and the eighth most populous in the European Union. Its metropolitan area stretches beyond the boundaries of the city wall for approximately . Naples also plays a key role in international diplomacy, since it is home to NATO's Allied Joint Force Command Naples and the Parliamentary Assembly of the Mediterranean. Founded by Greeks in the first millennium BC, Naples is one of the oldest continuously inhabited urban areas in the world. In the eighth century BC, a colony known as Parthenope () was established on the Pizzofalcone hill. In the sixth century BC, it was refounded as Neápolis. The city was an important part of Magna Graecia, played a major ro ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Cesare Attolini
Cesare Attolini is a high-luxury menswear brand founded in Casalnuovo di Napoli the 1930s by Vincenzo Attolini, the creator of the Neapolitan tailoring style. Overview Vincenzo Attolini created the Neapolitan silhouette featuring a slim waist, high armholes, generous sleeve-head, and minimal shoulder padding. His son Cesare Attolini established the system to produce at scale and market the brand. The brand is run by Vincenzo Attolini's grandsons Giuseppe and Massimiliano Attolini, who are responsible for the brand's expansion internationally. Shops Retail locations are in Milan on Via Bagutta, Miami Beach at the Bal Harbour Shops, New York City on Madison Avenue, London on Mount Street in Mayfair, Monaco, and Moscow (Tverskaya Street Tverskaya Street ( rus, Тверская улица, p=tvʲɪrˈskajə ˈulʲɪt͡sə), known between 1935 and 1990 as Gorky Street (), is the main radial road, radial street in Moscow. The street runs Northwest from the central Mane ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Lapels
A lapel ( ) is a folded flap of cloth on the front of a jacket or coat below the collar. It is most commonly found on formal clothing and suit jackets. Usually it is formed by folding over the front edge of the jacket or coat and sewing it to the collar, an extra piece of fabric around the back of the neck. There are three basic forms of lapel: notched, peaked, and shawl. The notched lapel, the most common, is usually seen on business suits, and on more casual jackets like blazers and sport coats. The peaked lapel is more formal, and nearly always used on double-breasted jackets, but also frequently appears on single breasted ones.Flusser (2002). p. 85 The shawl lapel is usually carried by tuxedos and mess jackets.Antongiavanni (2006). p. 172 Types Notched The notched lapel (American English), step lapel or step collar (British English) is sewn to the collar at an angle, creating a step effect. This is the standard on single-breasted suits, and is used on nearly all suit ja ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Dart (sewing)
Darts are folds (tucks coming to a point) sewn into fabric to take in ease and provide shape to a garment, especially for a woman's bust. They are used frequently in all sorts of clothing to tailor the garment to the wearer's shape, or to make an innovative shape in the garment. Fabric may be thought of as flat, and a dart has the effect of removing a wedge shaped piece and pulling the edges of that wedge together to create a shallow cone. This effect can be seen quite easily with a paper pattern by pulling together the edges of a dart intake as it would be sewn. Since fabric is generally more flexible than paper, the fabric will shift around the apex of the cone and form a softer, but still curved, shape. In a garment, a dart ends in a point at a full area of the body. A dart in a flat pattern has two important properties: its point, or the point in the pattern at which the dart aims or converges, and the intake, or the amount of fabric taken in or removed. Since the dart can ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Buttonhole
A buttonhole is a reinforced hole in fabric that a Button (clothing), button can pass through, allowing one piece of fabric to be secured to another. The raw edges of a buttonhole are usually finished with stitching. This may be done either by hand or by a sewing machine. Some forms of button, such as a Frog (fastening), frog, use a loop of Textile, cloth or rope instead of a buttonhole. The term buttonhole can also refer to a flower worn in the lapel buttonhole of a coat or jacket, which is referred to simply as a "buttonhole" or "boutonnière". History Buttonholes for fastening or closing clothing with buttons appeared first in Germany during the 13th century. They soon became widespread with the rise of snug-fitting garments in 13th- and 14th-century Europe. Aspects of buttonholes Buttonholes often have a ''bar'' of stitches at either side of them. This is a row of perpendicular hand or machine stitching to reinforce the raw edges of the fabric, and to prevent it from frayi ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
ISAIA Napoli
Isaia is a Neapolitan tailoring luxury brand founded by Enrico Isaia in Casalnuovo di Napoli in 1920. The brand is recognized by its tiny red coral logo, which is a good-luck charm in Naples. The brand describes its clientele as "passionate, sophisticated, irreverent, eclectic and elegant." Gianluca Isaia is the chief executive officer. Stores Isaia has monobrand stores in Naples, Baku, Bal Harbour, Beverly Hills, Capri, Chicago, Cyprus, Ekaterinburg, Hong Kong, Kuwait city, Kyiv, London, Macao, Milan, Moscow, Ulaanbaatar, New Delhi, New York City, Riyadh, St. Petersburg, St. Moritz, San Francisco, Rome, Toronto and Minato-ku, Tokyo, Tokyo. History Isaia was founded in Naples, Napoli by Enrico Isaia, who opened a fabric store for Neapolitan tailoring, and later a small atelier next to the store. In 1957 the brothers Enrico, Rosario and Corrado Isaia moved the business to Casalnuovo di Napoli, Casalnuovo, a village near Napoli where tailoring was a large part of the econo ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
