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Sangi (cloth)
Sangi was a kind of silk produced in Hindustan. It was a mixed woven cloth, a common cloth in the nineteenth century. The fabric was constructed with a cotton warp and a silk weft, or vice versa. Name Sangi is derived from the word , which means (together) two warp yarns woven as one. Khajari ( Sangi was classified as a silk fabric; it was similar to Mashru but of a lesser quality. All three, Sangi, Mashru, and Gulbadan, have a wavy pattern running along their width. In Sanghi, the peculiar khanjari (Chevron, often relating to V-shaped) pattern is obtained by the arrangements of the dyed yarns in the warp, unlike in Mashru, where the effect is a result of dyeing the warp portions. The striped (wavy yarn) appears as a stitch in Sangi. In contrast, Gulbadan had an expensive, close, and fine texture. Sangi's distinguishing trait was a green or yellow warp (and, as a result, green and yellow khanjari) with a red weft. Although Muslims of the upper classes preferred cotton mixed, ...
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Hindustan
''Hindūstān'' ( , from '' Hindū'' and ''-stān''), also sometimes spelt as Hindōstān ( ''Indo-land''), along with its shortened form ''Hind'' (), is the Persian-language name for the Indian subcontinent that later became commonly used by its inhabitants in the Hindi–Urdu language. Hindustan was the Persian word for ''India'', but when introduced to the subjects under Persianate rule, the subsequent culture which resulted from these events gave it another specific meaning that of the cultural region between the river Sutlej (end of Northwestern India) and the city Varanasi (start of Eastern India). As the area where Ganga-Jamuni Tehzeeb and the Hindustani language traces its origins, it corresponds to the plains where the river Yamuna flows or the regions/states encompassing Haryana, Delhi, Harit Pradesh, and Awadh. Other toponyms for the subcontinent include '' Jambudvīpa'' and ''Bharata Khanda''. Since the Partition of India in 1947, although limitedly, ''H ...
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Blend (textile)
A blend is a mixture of two or more fibers. In yarn spinning, different compositions, lengths, diameters, or colors may be combined to create a blend. Blended textiles are fabrics or yarns produced with a combination of two or more types of different fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits and aesthetics. Blending is possible at various stages of textile manufacturing. The term, ''blend'', refers to spun fibers or a fabric composed of such fibers. There are several synonymous terms: a combination yarn is made up of two strands of different fibers twisted together to form a ply; a mixture or mixed cloth refers to blended cloths in which different types of yarns are used in warp and weft sides. Union or union fabric was a 19th century term for a blended fabric. It is no longer used. History Blending in textiles is an old practice which became more widespread after around 1980. Recognizing the growing popularity of blends, the Wool Bureau introduced the "Wool blend" mark in ...
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Mashru
Mashru (also historically spelled mashroo, misru, mushroo or mushru) is a woven cloth that is a blend of silk and cotton. It was historically a hand-woven satin silk fabric variety found in the Indian subcontinent, and its proper use is described in the 16th-century ''Ain-i-Akbari''. History Mashru is explicitly mentioned in the administrative document, the ''Ain-i-Akbari'', of the 16th-century Mughal Empire, under silken kinds of stuff: "... the ordinary orthodox Muslim was only anxious to wear clothes of simple material like linen and to avoid silk, velvet, brocade, or fur and coloured ... Mashru." Mixed silk-and-cotton textiles were worn, because, by canon, a Muslim must not wear a dress of pure silk.61 ''Ain-i-Akbari'', Blochmann, I, 89". Se''A Social History of Islamic India'' Yasin, Mohammad; via: books.google.co.in; (1958); p. 39 Varieties containing silk and cotton admixtures gained greater currency in the empire, more particularly after the issuance of the ''Ain-i-Akba ...
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Gulbadan (silk Cloth)
''Gulbadan'' (silk cloth) was a kind of striped silk produced in Hindustan. The gulbadan ( literal meaning a body like the rose ) was a light textured cloth of silk and cotton. Gulbadan has vertical variegated stripes with a different color than the base color of the cloth. In appearance, it was similar to a glazed calico, unlike ''Mashru'', which has the satin (lustrous) surface.The contemporary silk piece goods were ''Daryai'' (plain silk) and ''Dhupehan'' (shot silk). Gulbadan was available in many color combinations and sizes. Gulbadan of Amritsar and Lahore were famous. "Sufi" was another name for Gulbadan striped fabric. A type Sohren Gulbadan was prepared with specific dimensions, i.e., 36 feet long and 1 foot and 4 inches wide.FOUND INSIDE – PAGE 222 ''Sohrén gulbadan is made in pieces 36 feet long by 1 foot 4 inches wide . The ground is scarlet with thin yellow and green lines . It is made either of silk or cotton , and is in common use for shirts and trousers among the ...
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Jalaun
Jalaun is a city and a municipal board in Jalaun district in the Indian States and territories of India, state of Uttar Pradesh. History In early times Jalaun seems to have been the home of kurmi clans, the jalaunya kurmi in the east and the Kachwahas in the west. The village Garghgawan was the estate of the Bhadauria clan, the historic monument of this clan still exists in this village. The town of Kalpi on the Yamuna was conquered by the armies of Muhammad Ghori in 1196. In the early 14th century, the Bundelas occupied the greater part of Jalaun and even succeeded in holding the fortified post of Kalpi. That important possession was soon recovered by the Delhi Sultanate and was then passed on to the Mughal Empire. Akbar's governors at Kalpi maintained a nominal authority over the surrounding district, and the Bundela chiefs were in a state of chronic revolt, which culminated in the war of independence under Maharaja Chhatrasal. On the outbreak of his rebellion in 1671, he occu ...
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Allahabad
Allahabad (), officially known as Prayagraj, also known as Ilahabad, is a metropolis in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh.The other five cities were: Agra, Kanpur (Cawnpore), Lucknow, Meerut, and Varanasi (Benares). It is the administrative headquarters of the Allahabad district—the most populous district in the state and 13th most populous district in India—and the Allahabad division. The city is the judicial capital of Uttar Pradesh with the Allahabad High Court being the highest judicial body in the state. As of 2011, Allahabad is the seventh most populous city in the state, thirteenth in Northern India and thirty-sixth in India, with an estimated population of 1.53 million in the city. In 2011 it was ranked the world's 40th fastest-growing city. Allahabad, in 2016, was also ranked the third most liveable urban agglomeration in the state (after Noida and Lucknow) and sixteenth in the country. Hindi is the most widely spoken language in the city. ...
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Azamgarh
Azamgarh is a city in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is the headquarters of Azamgarh division, which consists of Ballia, Mau and Azamgarh districts. Azamgarh is situated on the bank of Tamsa River (Tons). It is located east of the state capital Lucknow and 809 km from national capital, Delhi. History Azamgarh, one of the easternmost districts(a district in Purvanchal sub-region) of Uttar Pradesh, once formed a part of the ancient Kosala kingdom, except its north-eastern part. Azamgarh is also known as the land of the sage Durvasa whose ashram was located in Phulpur tehsil, near the confluence of Tamsa and Majhuee rivers, north of the Phulpur. The district is named after its headquarters town, Azamgarh, which was founded in 1665 by Azam, son of Vikramajit. Vikramajit was a descendant of Gautam Rajputs of Mehnagar in Pargana Nizamabad who like some of his predecessors had embraced the faith of Islam. He had a Muslim wife who bore him two sons Azam and Az ...
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Daryayi
Daryayi was an old silk fabric. It could have gotten its name from the fabric's wavy or striped pattern, like a Darya, which means river. Daryayi silk was made in Meerut and Lucknow until the late eighteenth century by weavers known as daryayi baff. These weavers, most likely migrated to India from Central Asia, a well-known silk-weaving region between the Syr and Amu Darya rivers. This twelve-inch-wide fabric comes in a range of colors like red, yellow, blue, green, and white. Daryayi was used as a patka in Hindu wedding ceremonies, or as a border for women's clothing. Abul Fazl included Daryayi silk in his list of contemporary silk textiles. Daryayi silk has 480 single warp yarn Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, used in sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery, ropemaking, and the production of textiles. Thread is a type of yarn intended for sewing by hand or machine. Modern manufact ...s or 280 double warp yarns in its weave structure. ...
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Ghalta
was an old Hindustani fabric made of silk and cotton. Additionally, it was given the name " Azamgarh Satinette." According to John Shakespear, Ghalta was also referred to "a thick sort of cloth." Weave Ghalta was a mixed cloth made of silk and cotton yarns. Ghalta had a standard length of 9 yards and a width of 26 inches. The word "Ghalta" derives from the Persian which means "to roll." The cloth was finished with hot cylinders to give it a smooth glazed aesthetic. It was calendered and pressed so firmly on the surface that no cotton yarns could be seen, while the back side of the fabric shows all cotton yarns with little silk. Ghalta has a characterised check pattern that is bound with one, two, or three lines, and the portion in between the one direction may be filled with another (different than the rest of the fabric) coloured silk that creates a combination of checks and stripes. There were more patterns as well. Use Ladies preferred plain Ghalta in pink shades, whil ...
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Woven Fabrics
Woven fabric is any textile formed by weaving. Woven fabrics are often created on a loom, and made of many threads woven on a warp and a weft. Technically, a woven fabric is any fabric made by interlacing two or more threads at right angles to one another. Woven fabrics can be made of both natural and synthetic fibres, and are often made from a mixture of both. E.g. 100% Cotton or 80% Cotton & 20% polyester. 60% spandex and 40% cotton could also be woven together. Woven fabric is typically used in clothing, garments, for decoration, furniture or covering purposes such as carpets. In the Midwest, it is popular to have woven wicker furniture in sitting areas such as a patio or a dining room. Qualities Woven fabrics only stretch diagonally on the bias directions (between the warp and weft directions), unless the threads used are elastic. Woven fabric cloth usually frays at the edges, unless techniques are used to counter it, such as the use of pinking shears or hemming. Differen ...
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