Vercors Cave System
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The Vercors massif (; ) is a
mountain range A mountain range or hill range is a series of mountains or hills arranged in a line and connected by high ground. A mountain system or mountain belt is a group of mountain ranges with similarity in form, structure, and alignment that have aris ...
in eastern
France France, officially the French Republic, is a country located primarily in Western Europe. Overseas France, Its overseas regions and territories include French Guiana in South America, Saint Pierre and Miquelon in the Atlantic Ocean#North Atlan ...
consisting of rugged
plateau In geology and physical geography, a plateau (; ; : plateaus or plateaux), also called a high plain or a tableland, is an area of a highland consisting of flat terrain that is raised sharply above the surrounding area on at least one side. ...
s and mountains straddling the '' départements'' of
Isère Isère ( , ; ; , ) is a landlocked Departments of France, department in the southeastern French Regions of France, region of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Named after the river Isère (river), Isère, it had a population of 1,271,166 in 2019.
and
Drôme Drôme (; Occitan: ''Droma''; Arpitan: ''Drôma'') is the southernmost department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of Southeastern France. Named after the river Drôme, it had a population of 516,762 as of 2019.
in the French Prealps. It lies west of the
Dauphiné Alps The Dauphiné Alps () are a group of mountain ranges in Southeastern France, west of the main chain of the Alps. Mountain ranges within the Dauphiné Alps include the Massif des Écrins in Écrins National Park, Belledonne, Le Taillefer range ...
, from which it is separated by the rivers Drac and
Isère Isère ( , ; ; , ) is a landlocked Departments of France, department in the southeastern French Regions of France, region of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Named after the river Isère (river), Isère, it had a population of 1,271,166 in 2019.
. The
cliff In geography and geology, a cliff or rock face is an area of Rock (geology), rock which has a general angle defined by the vertical, or nearly vertical. Cliffs are formed by the processes of weathering and erosion, with the effect of gravity. ...
s at the massif's eastern limit face the city of
Grenoble Grenoble ( ; ; or ; or ) is the Prefectures in France, prefecture and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of the Isère Departments of France, department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Regions of France, region ...
.


Background

Over time, various features of the complex geography have been recognised including, the Quatre Montagnes (four mountains), the Coulmes (gorges), the Vercors Drômois (Drome Vercors), the Hauts-Plateaux (high plateaus) and, in the foothills, Royans, Gervanne, Diois, and Trièves. The massif is sometimes called the "fortress". The movement of people tends to be between the massif and the surrounding plains rather than between the various parts of the massif itself. Until the mid twentieth century, the name ''Vercors'' was used to describe only the township of La Chapelle-en-Vercors (with Royans), and the northern area around Lans-en-Vercors, Villard-de-Lans,
Autrans Autrans () is a former Communes of France, commune in the Isère Departments of France, department in the Rhône-Alpes region of south-eastern France. On 1 January 2016, it was merged into the new commune of Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors. At the 19 ...
, and
Méaudre Méaudre () is a former commune in the Isère department in southeastern France. On 1 January 2016, it was merged into the new commune of Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors.Grenoble Grenoble ( ; ; or ; or ) is the Prefectures in France, prefecture and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of the Isère Departments of France, department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Regions of France, region ...
) and was known as the ''Four Mountains'' area. In June and July 1944, the massif became important in
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
with the establishment of the Free Republic of Vercors, led by the
Maquis du Vercors The Battle of Vercors in July and August 1944 was between a rural group of the French Forces of the Interior (FFI) Maquis_(World_War_II).html" ;"title="'Maquis (World War II)">maquis''and the armed forces of Nazi Germany which had occupied Franc ...
, a base for the
French Resistance The French Resistance ( ) was a collection of groups that fought the German military administration in occupied France during World War II, Nazi occupation and the Collaboration with Nazi Germany and Fascist Italy#France, collaborationist Vic ...
against German occupation. A major German offensive extinguished the new Republic in the Battle of Vercors that followed. The battle included the last glider-borne operation of the war. The Vercors includes the largest alpine karst area in the Northern French pre-alps, and contains a number of large and deep cave systems. These include Gouffre Berger, which is over deep, and the Réseau de Coufin-Chevaline (grotte de Choranche), a show cave in the Bourne Gorge which has almost of mapped passages. The Vercors has several resorts for
cross-country skiing Cross-country skiing is a form of skiing whereby skiers traverse snow-covered terrain without use of ski lifts or other assistance. Cross-country skiing is widely practiced as a sport and recreational activity; however, some still use it as a m ...
and for down-hill skiing. Villard-de-Lans is the biggest down-hill ski resort. This sporting area is environmentally protected, and although the natural environment has been drastically altered throughout history for the purposes of agriculture and forestry, plans for
afforestation Afforestation is the establishment of a forest or stand of trees in an area where there was no recent tree cover. There are three types of afforestation: natural Regeneration (biology), regeneration, agroforestry and Tree plantation, tree plan ...
will make it one of the major forests of
Metropolitan France Metropolitan France ( or ), also known as European France (), is the area of France which is geographically in Europe and chiefly comprises #Hexagon, the mainland, popularly known as "the Hexagon" ( or ), and Corsica. This collective name for the ...
and a reserve for species such as the southern tulip and black grouse, two symbols of the park, as well as the re-introduced griffon vulture and the alpine ibex. The differences in climate and altitude across the Vercors are reflected in the high level of diversity in the fauna and flora. Members of the cult the Order of the Solar Temple infamously committed mass murder-suicide in the Vercors in 1995.


Etymology

The name ''Massif du Vercors'' is derived from the name of a local tribe who lived in the area at the time of the Roman conquest of Gaul, who were known as the Vertamocorii (also spelled Vertamocori, Vertacomicorii, or Vertacomocorii), meaning ''excellent troops'' or ''troops of the summit''. Modern inhabitants are referred to as ''Vertacomiriens''. Prior to the 1900s, the name Vercors referred only to the upper valleys of the Vernaison near the township of La Chapelle-en-Vercors. At the beginning of the 20th century, Henri Ferrand explored the massif, taking numerous photographs, publishing books, and describing the geology of the mountains. Ferrand was the first to use the term ''Vercors'' in its extended contemporary sense. The geographers
Raoul Blanchard Raoul Blanchard (4 September 1877 – 24 March 1965) was a French geographer. He taught at the University of Grenoble from 1906 and devoted most of his research to Alpine and Canadian geography. Early life The son of an inspector of the Depart ...
and Jules Blache, popularised the term in the late 1920s and early 1930s. By the 1950s, the term was ubiquitous.


Geography


Location

The Vercors Massif lies in the Prealps, in the south-east France, straddling the departments of Drôme and Isère, both of which are part of the
Rhône-Alpes Rhône-Alpes () was an administrative region of France. Since 1 January 2016, it is part of the new region Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. It is located on the eastern border of the country, towards the south. The region was named after the river Rhône a ...
region, about south-east of Lyon. The massif covers with a north–south length of and an east–west width of . The massif is surrounded by the
Chartreuse Mountains The Chartreuse Mountains ( ) are a mountain range in southeastern France, stretching from the city of Grenoble in the south to the Lac du Bourget in the north. They are part of the French Prealps, which continue as the Bauges to the north and ...
to the north, the Matheysine area of the
Dauphiné Alps The Dauphiné Alps () are a group of mountain ranges in Southeastern France, west of the main chain of the Alps. Mountain ranges within the Dauphiné Alps include the Massif des Écrins in Écrins National Park, Belledonne, Le Taillefer range ...
to the east, and the Diois Massif to the south. In the far south-east, the massif joins with the col de Menée. The massif is drained in the north-east and the north-west by the
Isère Isère ( , ; ; , ) is a landlocked Departments of France, department in the southeastern French Regions of France, region of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes. Named after the river Isère (river), Isère, it had a population of 1,271,166 in 2019.
, in the east by the Drac, and in the south by the
Drôme Drôme (; Occitan: ''Droma''; Arpitan: ''Drôma'') is the southernmost department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of Southeastern France. Named after the river Drôme, it had a population of 516,762 as of 2019.
. The western side overlooks the Rhône Valley.


Topography


Geomorphology

The Vercors Massif is known as ''the fortress'' or as ''the French dolomites'' because of its geomorphology. The massif is likened to a plateau: the fall from the massif to its inner valleys is a few hundred metres, while the fall to the surrounding areas is between and . The crest of the eastern edge has several summits over . The interior varies between and . The massif also has wide valleys including the valley of Lans-en-Vercors, the regions around
Autrans Autrans () is a former Communes of France, commune in the Isère Departments of France, department in the Rhône-Alpes region of south-eastern France. On 1 January 2016, it was merged into the new commune of Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors. At the 19 ...
, and La Chapelle-en-Vercors, and plateaus including forêt des Coulmes, forêt de Lente, and the high plateau. There are a number of deeply incised gorges, including the Bourne and Furon Gorges. These have imposing cliffs often exceeding such as the Combe Laval and the Cirque d'Archiane.
Mont Aiguille Mont Aiguille () is a mountain in the Vercors Massif of the French Prealps, located south of Grenoble, in the commune of Chichilianne, and the département of Isère. The mountain, known as one of the Seven Wonders of Dauphiné, is a rel ...
stands apart from the rest of the massif as the result of erosion. Other parts are isolated from the rest of the massif due to its relief. For example, to reach Gresse-en-Vercors in the south, one must travel via the col de Rousset or journey via Saint-Nizier-du-Moucherotte in the north. The villages at the far northern end were isolated by a landslide near the Mortier tunnel. Another example is the Peuil plateau in the east. During the
Ice Age An ice age is a long period of reduction in the temperature of Earth's surface and atmosphere, resulting in the presence or expansion of continental and polar ice sheets and alpine glaciers. Earth's climate alternates between ice ages, and g ...
, the Grésivaudan glacier reached the Peuil plateau leaving a marsh.


Sub-divisions

The central part of the Vercors Massif is divided into several regions.Les régions
Parc naturel régional du Vercors
The Coulmes, in the north-west, are heavily covered in forest. Folds of Urgonian limestone are rounded, making the area appear mountainous. The four mountains area has been developed for tourism and skiing but is also known for its traditional activities such as the breeding of dairy cows and cheese making. The main villages,
Autrans Autrans () is a former Communes of France, commune in the Isère Departments of France, department in the Rhône-Alpes region of south-eastern France. On 1 January 2016, it was merged into the new commune of Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors. At the 19 ...
,
Méaudre Méaudre () is a former commune in the Isère department in southeastern France. On 1 January 2016, it was merged into the new commune of Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors.Lans-en-Vercors, and Villard-de-Lans, are spread over two plateaus covered by wooded hills. The Drômois Vercors is an area made up of a number of smaller plateaus. In the north of the Drômois Vercors there are several gorges which are traversed by roads cut into the cliffs. Grassy areas are used as pastures in the summer months, and the biannual migration (
transhumance Transhumance is a type of pastoralism or Nomad, nomadism, a seasonal movement of livestock between fixed summer and winter pastures. In montane regions (''vertical transhumance''), it implies movement between higher pastures in summer and low ...
) of animals is a period of celebration for the people of Die. The ''Haut-Plateaux'' (high plateaus) are the highest
wilderness area Wilderness or wildlands (usually in the plural) are Earth's natural environments that have not been significantly modified by human activity, or any nonurbanized land not under extensive agricultural cultivation. The term has traditionally ...
s of the massif. The area is managed and the pastures are used for grazing in the summer. At the fringes of the massif, the Vercors regional park has four geographical areas. The Royans, the north-west foothills are the location of
walnuts A walnut is the edible seed of any tree of the genus ''Juglans'' (family Juglandaceae), particularly the Persian or English walnut, '' Juglans regia''. They are accessory fruit because the outer covering of the fruit is technically an invo ...
growing. Three valleys descend to the edge of the Royans: the Gorges de la Bourne, the cirque of the Combe Laval, and the Échevis valley, including the Grands and the Petits Goulets. The Gervanne, in the south-west, is a rugged area of hills at the foot of the plateau, with picturesque villages. It looks towards Crest. The Diois is a part of the Drôme valley around Die. This region has a Mediterranean character, with vineyards and fields of
lavender ''Lavandula'' (common name lavender) is a genus of 47 known species of perennial flowering plants in the sage family, Lamiaceae. It is native plant, native to the Old World, primarily found across the drier, warmer regions of the Mediterranean ...
. It acts as a buffer between Gervanne and the interior of the massif. The Trièves, in the east, is a low hilly plateau, which lies between the highest summits of the Vercors and the gorge carved out by the Drac.


Principal summits

From north to south: * Le Moucherotte, m, the summit which dominates
Grenoble Grenoble ( ; ; or ; or ) is the Prefectures in France, prefecture and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of the Isère Departments of France, department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Regions of France, region ...
, most northerly of the
massif A massif () is a principal mountain mass, such as a compact portion of a mountain range, containing one or more summits (e.g. France's Massif Central). In mountaineering literature, ''massif'' is frequently used to denote the main mass of an ...
* Le Pic Saint-Michel, m * Roc Cornafion, m * Les Arêtes du Gerbier, m * La Grande Moucherolle, m * La Petite Moucherolle, m * La Tête des Chaudières, m * Les Rochers de la Balme, m * Le Sommet de Malaval, m * Le Grand Veymont, m, highest point of the massif * Le
Mont Aiguille Mont Aiguille () is a mountain in the Vercors Massif of the French Prealps, located south of Grenoble, in the commune of Chichilianne, and the département of Isère. The mountain, known as one of the Seven Wonders of Dauphiné, is a rel ...
, m, with its characteristic silhouette, its first ascent in 1492 was the birth of alpinism * Le Dôme ou Pié Ferré, m, to the east of Die, in the Glandasse uplands.


Principal road cols

By descending altitude: * Col du Mont Noir, m, between Malleval-en-Vercors and Rencurel * Col de l'Allimas, m, between Gresse-en-Vercors and Saint-Michel-les-Portes * Col de la Chau, m, between Vassieux-en-Vercors and Bouvante * Col de la Bataille, m, between Léoncel and Bouvante * Col de Rousset, m (tunnel altitude), between Die and Saint-Agnan-en-Vercors * Col de Saint-Alexis, m, between Vassieux-en-Vercors and Saint-Agnan-en-Vercors * Col de la Croix-Perrin, m, between Lans-en-Vercors and
Autrans Autrans () is a former Communes of France, commune in the Isère Departments of France, department in the Rhône-Alpes region of south-eastern France. On 1 January 2016, it was merged into the new commune of Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors. At the 19 ...
-
Méaudre Méaudre () is a former commune in the Isère department in southeastern France. On 1 January 2016, it was merged into the new commune of Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors.Col de Carri, m, between La Chapelle-en-Vercors and Bouvante * Col de la Portette, m, in Bouvante * Col de l'Arzelier, m, between Château-Bernard and Le Gua * Col de Tourniol, m, between Léoncel and Barbières * Col de Proncel, m, between Vassieux-en-Vercors and La Chapelle-en-Vercors * Col des Limouches, m, between Léoncel and Peyrus * Col de Romeyère, m, between Rencurel and Saint-Gervais * Col de la Machine, m, between Saint-Jean-en-Royans and Bouvante. The Tunnel du Mortier links Montaud with Autrans, at an altitude of . It was closed on 20 April 1992 after a landslide of 20,000 m3 of rock which involved part of the slope to the north of the route. The instability of the slopes have proved an impediment for the realisation of further work below the site, particularly work on the gorges d'Engins to Sassenage road, the D531.


Principal caves

The commune in which the cave is situated is given in italics. * Réseau du Gouffre Berger, ''d'Engins en Isère'', long, deep. *
, ''Autrans-Méaudre en Vercors,'' long, deep. * Réseau du Clot d'Aspres
, ''Villard-de-Lans,'' long, deep. *
, ''Choranche,'' long, deep. *
, ''Choranche,'' long, deep. *
, ''Corrençon-en-Vercors,'' long, deep. *
, ''Saint-Agnan-en-Vercors'', long, deep. * Réseau des Chuats, ''Bouvante'', long, deep. The Grotte de Bournillon, located in the commune of Châtelus, has the highest cave opening in Europe at .


Climate

The climate of the Vercors due to its elevation is much more rigorous than the lowlands surrounding the massif. The village of La-Chapelle-en-Vercors, approximately in the center of the massif, has a Dfb climate under the
Köppen Classification Köppen is a German surname. Notable people with the surname include: * Bernd Köppen (1951–2014), German pianist and composer * Carl Köppen (1833-1907), German military advisor in Meiji era Japan * Edlef Köppen (1893–1939), German author ...
system. Winters are cold; summers are warm; and precipitation, often snow in the winter, is abundant in all seasons.


Geology

The constituent rocks of the Vercors were formed by sedimentation about 165 million years ago, in the middle
Jurassic The Jurassic ( ) is a Geological period, geologic period and System (stratigraphy), stratigraphic system that spanned from the end of the Triassic Period million years ago (Mya) to the beginning of the Cretaceous Period, approximately 143.1 Mya. ...
period, at the bottom of the Piemont-Liguria Ocean. The deposition of animal material formed limestone, with detritus rocks, formed primarily from the erosion of
marl Marl is an earthy material rich in carbonate minerals, Clay minerals, clays, and silt. When Lithification, hardened into rock, this becomes marlstone. It is formed in marine or freshwater environments, often through the activities of algae. M ...
from the Variscan orogeny formed the massif in a period marked by changing climatic conditions and ocean depth. At Diois and Trièves is a layer of the massif, formed in the
Tithonian In the geological timescale, the Tithonian is the latest age (geology), age of the Late Jurassic Epoch and the uppermost stage (stratigraphy), stage of the Upper Jurassic Series. It spans the time between 149.2 ±0.7 annum, Ma and 143.1 ±0.6 (mi ...
age Age or AGE may refer to: Time and its effects * Age, the amount of time someone has been alive or something has existed ** East Asian age reckoning, an Asian system of marking age starting at 1 * Ageing or aging, the process of becoming older ...
. Then, about 130 million years ago, in the
Cretaceous The Cretaceous ( ) is a geological period that lasted from about 143.1 to 66 mya (unit), million years ago (Mya). It is the third and final period of the Mesozoic Era (geology), Era, as well as the longest. At around 77.1 million years, it is the ...
period, a rise in temperatures combined with shallow waters led to the development of coral reefs, which abounded with
molluscs Mollusca is a phylum of protostome, protostomic invertebrate animals, whose members are known as molluscs or mollusks (). Around 76,000 extant taxon, extant species of molluscs are recognized, making it the second-largest animal phylum ...
, particularly
rudists Rudists are a group of extinct box-, tube- or ring-shaped Marine (ocean), marine Heterodonta, heterodont bivalves belonging to the order Hippuritida that arose during the Late Jurassic and became so diverse during the Cretaceous that they were m ...
. These were the origin of the Urgonian Limestone which forms the upper part of the massif, more prominently in the northern half. This primitive fauna left numerous fossils, some of which have been found at a site near Rencurel in the Coulmes. In the
Paleogene The Paleogene Period ( ; also spelled Palaeogene or Palæogene) is a geologic period and system that spans 43 million years from the end of the Cretaceous Period Ma (million years ago) to the beginning of the Neogene Period Ma. It is the fir ...
period, the Tethys ocean closed up and at the start of the
Miocene The Miocene ( ) is the first epoch (geology), geological epoch of the Neogene Period and extends from about (Ma). The Miocene was named by Scottish geologist Charles Lyell; the name comes from the Greek words (', "less") and (', "new") and mea ...
, the raising of the Alps involved the thrusting of a
nappe In geology, a nappe or thrust sheet is a large sheetlike body of rock that has been moved more than or above a thrust fault from its original position. Nappes form in compressional tectonic settings like continental collision zones or on the ...
to the west. Sedimentary rocks were raised above the current location of the
Massif des Écrins Massif des Écrins (; Écrins Massif) are a massif in the French Alps. They form the core of Écrins National Park in Hautes-Alpes and Isère.faulted and folded in the process. Subsequent marine transgressions were responsible for secondary sedimentation in the basins. There was widening of the gorges and erosion of the cliffs from runoff, leading to the formation of the
molasse __NOTOC__ In geology, "molasse" () are sandstones, shales and conglomerates that form as terrestrial or shallow marine deposits in front of rising mountain chains. The molasse deposits accumulate in a foreland basin, especially on top of flys ...
in the Royans and also in the valleys of Lans, Autrans, and Rencurel. At the close of the
Miocene The Miocene ( ) is the first epoch (geology), geological epoch of the Neogene Period and extends from about (Ma). The Miocene was named by Scottish geologist Charles Lyell; the name comes from the Greek words (', "less") and (', "new") and mea ...
, a new period of uplifting brought about the final receding of the sea. Once formed, the massif underwent severe erosion, which accentuated the relief. The different synclines grew larger, eventually forming valleys including those of Autrans,
Méaudre Méaudre () is a former commune in the Isère department in southeastern France. On 1 January 2016, it was merged into the new commune of Autrans-Méaudre-en-Vercors.Corrençon, the Col de Romeyère and the Col de Rousset. The water hollowed out the
cirque A (; from the Latin word ) is an amphitheatre-like valley formed by Glacier#Erosion, glacial erosion. Alternative names for this landform are corrie (from , meaning a pot or cauldron) and ; ). A cirque may also be a similarly shaped landform a ...
of Archiane, the
steephead valley A steephead valley, steephead or blind valley is a deep, narrow, flat bottomed valley with an abrupt ending. Such closed valleys may arise in limestone or karst landscapes, where a layer of permeable rock lies above an impermeable substrate such ...
of Bournillon, and the Combe Laval.


In popular culture

The Vercors have appeared in many films, including; * '' La Bride sur le cou'' (1961) * '' Wish Me Luck'' (1987) Season 3 * '' Une hirondelle a fait le printemps'' (2001) * '' The Butterfly'' (2002) * '' To Paint or Make Love'' (2006) * '' My son'' (2017)


See also

* Battle of Vercors * Villard-de-Lans (cattle breed)


References

Sources
{{Authority control Dauphiné Prealps Plateaus of Metropolitan France Landforms of Drôme Mountains of Isère Landforms of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Geography of Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes Geography of Isère Geography of Drôme Western Alps