Sindhi Embroideries
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Sindhi embroidery ( Sindhi: سنڌي ٿرت) comes from the arid province of
Sindh Sindh ( ; ; , ; abbr. SD, historically romanized as Sind (caliphal province), Sind or Scinde) is a Administrative units of Pakistan, province of Pakistan. Located in the Geography of Pakistan, southeastern region of the country, Sindh is t ...
in southern
Pakistan Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of over 241.5 million, having the Islam by country# ...
, which has always been famed for its embroidery.


Background

The girls of the various farming, herding and merchant castes of Sindh have a
dowry A dowry is a payment such as land, property, money, livestock, or a commercial asset that is paid by the bride's (woman's) family to the groom (man) or his family at the time of marriage. Dowry contrasts with the related concepts of bride price ...
tradition in which the girl to be married will create with the help of her female relatives an embroidered trousseau consisting of costumes for herself, for the bridegroom, hangings for the home,
quilt A quilt is a multi-layered textile, traditionally composed of two or more layers of fabric or fiber. Commonly three layers are used with a filler material. These layers traditionally include a woven cloth top, a layer of padding, batting or w ...
s, and even trappings for the domestic animals: camels, horses and oxen. All these will be presented at the wedding ceremony to show her prowess with a needle and to prove that she is ready to take up her duties as wife, mother and homemaker. Pieces are decorated in a bewildering variety of techniques. Applying tiny
mirrors A mirror, also known as a looking glass, is an object that reflects an image. Light that bounces off a mirror forms an image of whatever is in front of it, which is then focused through the lens of the eye or a camera. Mirrors reverse the ...
attached with buttonhole and other stitch is the technique most characteristic of Sindhi work, but
couching In embroidery, couching and laid work are techniques in which yarn or other materials are laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different yarn. The couching threads may be eithe ...
,
appliqué Appliqué is ornamental needlework in which pieces or patches of fabric in different shapes and patterns are sewn or stuck onto a larger piece to form a picture or pattern. It is commonly used as decoration, especially on garments. The technique ...
and metal thread work are also very popular. Each caste has its own designs and motifs and favored color schemes particular array to such a degree that embroidery becomes a mark identification. A certain style of needlework becomes a badge of cultural identity. What is worn indicates caste, status and often the very village to which one belongs. It is seen as the duty of the mother to pass on the embroidery styles of a particular community to her daughter unchanged through the generations to maintain this particular identity. Fine embroidered dowry textiles are still part of life all over Sindh through the regions in which they are worked in profusion are the deserts of Sindh, such as Thar Parkar and Nagar Parkar. Other parts of Sind such as
Thano Bula Khan Thana Bulla Khan or Thano Bula Khan (, Sindhi: ٿاڻو بولا خان) is a town and Taluka headquarter in Jamshoro District, Sindh, Pakistan. Thana Bula Khan Taluka (Formally '' Kohistan Mahal Taluka''). The name of the taluka, Mahal Kohist ...
area have very strong embroidery traditions linked to ostentatious marriage display, a custom of certain merchant castes. Sindhi embroidery is profuse, vibrant and still very much alive.


History

Sindhi women excelled in needlework. The thin bronze needles (resembling those used for embroidery) from the excavations of
Mohenjo-Daro Mohenjo-daro (; , ; ) is an archaeological site in Larkana District, Sindh, Pakistan. Built 2500 BCE, it was one of the largest settlements of the ancient Indus Valley Civilisation, and one of the world's earliest major city, cities, contemp ...
are witness to this craft and this support the evidence of embroidery in that era. Sindhi women make fantastic patterns of rich, brilliant colours gleaming with mirrors, shells and beads. Zardosi, a special type of embroidery with a silver or golden thread, is also very famous throughout Sindh.


Mirrorwork

Mirrorwork (Shishe jo kam/Kawan jo kam) in Sindhi. The tradition of mirrorwork embroidery is one of the major features of regional embroideries of Sindh. Sindh along with its neighbour regions are considered to be the hub of mirrorwork. Sindh provides diverse examples of mirror work. Almost every community practices its own unique style of embroidery. Thus the styles of mirror embroidery also vary from one community to another. The style, colour, shape and even some times stitchery of mirror embroidery are also different from one region to another and from one community to another. Much of these aspects have evolved through modifications and enhancements from time to time. Foreign invasions and migrations of people from other regions have further enriched the work by intermixing of different cultures in this region. Researchers from different parts of the world have worked on the indigenous embroideries of Sindh. Several authors described the mirror embroideries of different regions of Sindh, which includes:
Ghotki Ghotki (; ) is a city in northern Sindh, Pakistan, and the headquarter of Ghotki District. Its population as of 2023 is . Ghotki is famous for its date palm ''Phoenix dactylifera'', commonly known as the date palm, is a flowering-plant spec ...
,
Shikarpur Shikarpur or Shakkarpur or Sikarpur may refer to the following places: India *Shikarpur, Bihar (Vidhan Sabha constituency) * Shikarpur, Gujarat, a village and Harappan archeological site in Kutch district of Gujarat * Shikarpur, Shimoga, a town in ...
,
Jacobabad Jacobabad, also known as Khanger, is a city in Sindh, Pakistan, serving as both the capital city of Jacobabad District and the administrative centre of Jacobabad Taluka, an administrative subdivision of the district. The city itself is subd ...
,
Khairpur Khairpur ( Sindhi, ) is a city and the capital of the Khairpur Mirs District of Pakistan's Sindh province. History The Talpur dynasty was established in 1783 by Mir Fateh Ali Khan, who declared himself the first ''Rais'', or ruler of Sindh, a ...
,
Sukkur Sukkur is a city in the Pakistani province of Sindh along the western bank of the Indus River, directly across from the historic city of Rohri. Sukkur is the List of cities in Sindh by population, third largest city in Sindh after Karachi and H ...
,
Mirpur Mathelo Mirpur Mathelo ( Sindhi:) is a city in Ghotki District, Sindh province, Pakistan. The city is administratively subdivided into ten union councils. It is the 97th largest city in Pakistan. It is also the location of the archaeological site, Moomal ...
,
Thano Bula Khan Thana Bulla Khan or Thano Bula Khan (, Sindhi: ٿاڻو بولا خان) is a town and Taluka headquarter in Jamshoro District, Sindh, Pakistan. Thana Bula Khan Taluka (Formally '' Kohistan Mahal Taluka''). The name of the taluka, Mahal Kohist ...
,
Thatta Thatta is a city in the Pakistani province of Sindh. Thatta was the medieval capital of Sindh, and served as the seat of power for three successive dynasties. Its construction was ordered by Jam Nizamuddin II in 1495. Thatta's historic signif ...
,
Badin Badin ( Sindhi and ) is the main city and capital of Badin District in Sindh, Pakistan. It lies east of the Indus River. It is the 105th largest city in Pakistan. Badin is often called 'Sugar State' due to its production of sugar. Badin Dist ...
,
Hyderabad Hyderabad is the capital and largest city of the Indian state of Telangana. It occupies on the Deccan Plateau along the banks of the Musi River (India), Musi River, in the northern part of Southern India. With an average altitude of , much ...
, Hala,
Nawabshah Nawabshah is a headquarter of Nawabshah Tehsil in Shaheed Benazirabad District of Sindh province, Pakistan. This city is situated in the middle of Sindh province. It is the List of most populous cities in Pakistan, 27th most populous city in P ...
,
Mirpurkhas Mirpur Khas ( Sindhi and ; ''meaning "Town of the most-high Mirs"'') is a city in Sindh province, Pakistan. The city was built by Talpur rulers of Mankani branch. According to the 2017 Census of Pakistan, its population was 205,913. Mirpur Khas ...
,
Sanghar Sanghar (; English: Sānghar) is a city in Sanghar District, Sindh, Pakistan. Sanghar is the headquarters of Sanghar District and Sanghar Taluka (a subdivision of the district). The driving distance of Sangher from Karachi is 268 kilometers ...
, Kashmore and multiple regions of Thaparkar particularly
Umarkot Umerkot (Urdu: ; Dhatki : عمرڪوٽ; Sindhi: عمرڪوٽ; IPA: mərkoːʈ formerly known as Amarkot) is a city in the Sindh province of Pakistan. The Mughal emperor Akbar was born in Amarkot in 1542. The Hindu folk deities Pabuji and ...
, Chachro,
Diplo Thomas Wesley Pentz (born November 10, 1978), known professionally as Diplo, is an American DJ and music producer. He is a co-creator and lead member of the electronic dancehall music project Major Lazer; a member of the supergroup LSD (group), ...
,
Nagarparkar Nagarparkar (, ) is a tehsil in at the base of the Karoonjhar Mountains in Tharparkar District in Sindh province of Pakistan. The historic Churrio Jabal Durga Mata Temple is situated here. The taluka is located at a distance of 129 km from ...
and
Mithi Mithi (; , ) is a city and the administrative capital of Tharparkar District in the Sindh province of Pakistan. It became the district headquarter of Tharparkar District in 1990, after the area's separation from Mirpur Khas. Mithi is one of the v ...
. In older times a mirror was assumed to frighten the evil spirits away, by terrifying them, by their own reflections. Also in ancient civilizations when sun was worshiped. The people see the gigantic sun as a sign of divine, hope or deity in itself. Askari and Crill surveyed different regions of Sindh which produce mirror embroidery and also have catalogued the communities which produce mirror embroidery such as
Mahar Mahar is one of the Indian caste found largely in the state of Maharashtra and neighbouring areas. Most of the Mahar community followed B. R. Ambedkar in converting to Buddhism in the middle of the 20th century. As of 2017 the Mahar caste w ...
community near Shikarpur and Ghotki,
Jat The Jat people (, ), also spelt Jaat and Jatt, are a traditionally agricultural community in Northern India and Pakistan. Originally pastoralists in the lower Indus river-valley of Sindh, many Jats migrated north into the Punjab region in l ...
community in
Badin Badin ( Sindhi and ) is the main city and capital of Badin District in Sindh, Pakistan. It lies east of the Indus River. It is the 105th largest city in Pakistan. Badin is often called 'Sugar State' due to its production of sugar. Badin Dist ...
, farming groups of Hyderabad, Hala and Nawabshah
Lohana Lohana are a Hindu ''jāti, caste'', a trading or mercantile community mostly residing in India and some also in Pakistan. The Lohanas are divided into many separate cultural groups as a result of centuries apart in different regions. Thus th ...
, Pallari and Burfat groups from Thano Bula Khan and a number of communities of Tharparkar region. Yacopino identified the Umarkot, Hyderabad, Sanghar and Kashmore, as some of the most important centres of mirror embroidery in Sindh. Earlier, the mirror embroidery was mainly used for making Gaj (A solid embroidery over the woman's shirt it usually covers the area, starting from neck up to the stomach. It incorporates variety of stitches and colors. Sometimes, it is made on separate piece of cloth and then attached to the garment). Earlier, the mirror embroidery was limited to the adornment of women's attire But some of the men's products like
Sindhi Topi The Sindhi cap, locally called Sindhī ṭopī () is a skullcap worn predominantly by Sindhis in Sindh, Pakistan. Together with Ajrak, the Sindhi cap is regarded as an essential part of Sindhi culture. History The Sindhi cap originated during t ...
, Agath (drawstring used in traditional pants) and Ganji are also adorned with mirror embroidery.


Embroidery products

* Gaj: are traditional embroidery fronts with mirrorwork, pompoms,
sequins A sequin ( ) is a small, typically shiny, generally disk-shaped ornament. Sequins are also referred to as paillettes, spangles, or ''diamanté'' (also spelled ''diamante''). Although the words sequins, paillettes, lentejuelas, and spangles can ...
,
cowries Cowrie or cowry () is the common name for a group of small to large sea snails in the family Cypraeidae. Cowrie shells have held cultural, economic, and ornamental significance in various cultures. The cowrie was the shell most widely used wo ...
, shells,
beads A bead is a small, decorative object that is formed in a variety of shapes and sizes of a material such as stone, bone, shell, glass, plastic, wood, or pearl and with a small hole for threading or stringing. Beads range in size from under 1 ...
and
buttons A button is a fastener that joins two pieces of fabric together by slipping through a loop or by sliding through a buttonhole. In modern clothing and fashion design, buttons are commonly made of plastic but also may be made of metal, wood, o ...
over the woman's shirt it usually covers the area, starting from neck up to the stomach. * Abochhini: embroidered wedding shawls for brides. * Sindhi rawa/chadars: Sindhi long, wide veils are beautifully embroidered with mirrorwork on plain, printed or bandhani cloth, which are mostly worn, when women go outdoors to cover their head and body, other embroidered chadars are also offered on tombs of sufi saints. * Akhiyo: traditional embroidered veil for brides, which is worn during days of Wanha/Wanhwa ritual times. * Bujki: traditional Sindhi embroidered dowry purse for bride. * Bokhano: a long embroidered narrow scarf worn on shoulders by grooms. * Doshalo: a heavy embroidered shawl for groom on wedding day, that he wears over his shoulders. * Gothro: is traditional embroidered sack, used for putting stuff and materials. * Thalposh: is a coverlet, it is embroidered cover for food, fruits etc. * Jhalposh: another type of coverlet used for the foods items. * Ganji: traditional vests worn underneath the kamis by Sindhi men, it is usually embroidered with mirrorwork. * Sindhi topi and top/toplo: traditional Sindhi caps, hats and hoodies are embroidered with different stitches, mirrorwork and gemstones. * Ralli/Bedsheets: many rallis, chadars, coverlets for tables, bedsheets and pillows are embroidered with mirrorwork and
sequins A sequin ( ) is a small, typically shiny, generally disk-shaped ornament. Sequins are also referred to as paillettes, spangles, or ''diamanté'' (also spelled ''diamante''). Although the words sequins, paillettes, lentejuelas, and spangles can ...
. * Agath: are traditional drawstring used for tying salwar/suthan and kancha (pants), these are heavily embellished hand knitted. * Animal ornamentations: different products like Ghani, Andheri are embroidered for animals like cows, camels, horses etc.


Types of Sindhi Embroideries

There are so many Sindhi Stitches, some of them are mentioned below: * Hurmuch/Hurmucho * Pakko * Kacho * Mukko * Marori * Kundhi * Aar * Kharak * Soof * Pani work * Gulkari * Band * Reso * Bakhiyo * Gano * Maahi * Kashmiro * Aaoka * Bijja * Seera * Kunh * Kambiri * Zanjeeri tako * Viz


See also

*
The crafts of Sindh The crafts of Sindh and its craftsmen are held in high esteem and their works are notable not only in Sindh but also in many other places. Pottery The history of pottery in the Sindh region originates from Indus Valley Civilisation, Indus Civi ...


References

{{reflist Sindhi culture Culture of Pakistan Pakistani embroidery