Ray Brown (born 27 September 1959) is an Australian tailor and clothing designer.
He has designed custom clothing for numerous celebrity
rock musicians, and operates his own
brand for stage wear, ''It's a Ray!''
Early life
Brown was born in
Darwin
Darwin may refer to:
Common meanings
* Charles Darwin (1809–1882), English naturalist and writer, best known as the originator of the theory of biological evolution by natural selection
* Darwin, Northern Territory, a territorial capital city i ...
, Australia to Ron Brown, a labor rights activist for the building trades, and Clarice Brown, a housewife. As a child, Brown learned carpentry from his father. He completed a four-year training course in
shop fitting
Shop fitting (shopfitting) is the trade of fitting out retail and service Retailing, shops and Retailing, stores with equipment, fixtures and fittings. The trade applies to all kinds of outlets from small corner shops to hypermarkets. A shop fitte ...
which included carpentry. When he was fifteen years old, Brown used his mother's sewing machine to re-design the
jeans
Jeans are a type of pants or trousers made from denim or dungaree cloth. Often the term "jeans" refers to a particular style of trousers, called "blue jeans", with copper-riveted pockets which were invented by Jacob W. Davis in 1871 and paten ...
he had bought in local shops.
Melbourne and London
Brown relocated to
Melbourne, and worked as a designer in a leather store. He was later promoted to a partner in the business, but eventually left to open a Western-style clothing store after seeing the
Nudie Cohn-designed shirts worn by
Elvis Presley.
Brown relocated to
London, where he rented rooms in the
Rainbow Theatre
The Rainbow Theatre, originally known as the Finsbury Park Astoria, is a Grade II*-listed building in Finsbury Park, London. The theatre was built in 1930 as a cinema. It later became a music venue. Today, the building is used by the Universa ...
. He continued making custom hand-colored Western-style shirts, which he sold through
King's Road boutiques. Just before shipping a large order to Germany, thieves broke into his room during a
Bob Marley concert show and stole the order. When Brown complained about the security to the management of The Rainbow, he was given the job of caretaker of the building, which required him to live in a flat at the top of the theatre. He continued making clothing and was promoted to
Front of House
In the performing arts, front of house (FOH) is the part of a performance venue that is open to the public. In theatres and live music venues, it consists of the auditorium and foyers, as opposed to the stage and backstage areas. In a theatre, t ...
manager.
While living and working there he became friends with
John Lydon
John Joseph Lydon (; born 31 January 1956), also known by his former stage name Johnny Rotten, is an English singer and songwriter. He was the lead singer of the late-1970s punk band the Sex Pistols, which lasted from 1975 until 1978, and aga ...
, then known as Johnny Rotten, singer of the
Sex Pistols
The Sex Pistols were an English punk rock band formed in London in 1975. Although their initial career lasted just two and a half years, they were one of the most groundbreaking acts in the history of popular music. They were responsible for ...
. After the Sex Pistols broke up, Lydon formed
Public Image Ltd ( PIL) and wanted his first UK shows with the new band to be at the Rainbow. Brown helped him organize to have the seats removed from the downstairs area of the Theatre for PIL's first London performances in December 1978.
He began making outfits for musicians including Australians
Bon Scott and the
Little River Band, as well as
Adam Ant and the British rock group
Charlie
Charlie may refer to:
Characters
* "Charlie," the head of the Townsend Agency', from the ''Charlie's Angels'' franchise
* Charlie, a character on signs for the CharlieCard, a smart card issued by the Massachusetts Bay Transportation Authority
* ...
. When the Rainbow's lease was coming to an end, the extensive renovations the building needed were precluded by a preservation order, and Brown left.
Los Angeles
Brown moved to
Los Angeles with 300 US dollars in his pocket. He rented a room in
Hollywood
Hollywood usually refers to:
* Hollywood, Los Angeles, a neighborhood in California
* Hollywood, a metonym for the cinema of the United States
Hollywood may also refer to:
Places United States
* Hollywood District (disambiguation)
* Hollywood, ...
and began making jeans on a rented sewing machine.
His first commission was for video producer Jerry Kramer. When Brown delivered the jeans to the studio where Kramer was editing a
Styx
In Greek mythology, Styx (; grc, Στύξ ) is a river that forms the boundary between Earth (Gaia) and the Underworld. The rivers Acheron, Cocytus, Lethe, Phlegethon, and Styx all converge at the centre of the underworld on a great marsh, whic ...
video he met the band's guitarist
Tommy Shaw. Of similar stature to Brown, Shaw complained of the difficulty he had in finding stageworthy clothing that fit. Shaw commissioned Brown to make his red
jumpsuit, and then flew him to Chicago, where he was commissioned to make all the clothing for the band's upcoming ''
Paradise Theatre'' tour, which began in early 1981.
Brown's next clients included
Ozzy Osbourne, the band
Judas Priest
Judas Priest are an English heavy metal band formed in Birmingham in 1969. They have sold over 50 million albums and are frequently ranked as one of the greatest metal bands of all time. Despite an innovative and pioneering body of work in th ...
,
Cher
Cher (; born Cherilyn Sarkisian; May 20, 1946) is an American singer, actress and television personality. Often referred to by the media as the Honorific nicknames in popular music, "Goddess of Pop", she has been described as embodying female ...
,
The Pointer Sisters,
Barry Manilow
Barry Manilow (born Barry Alan Pincus; June 17, 1943) is an American singer and songwriter with a career that spans seven decades. His hit recordings include "Could It Be Magic", " Somewhere Down the Road", " Mandy", "I Write the Songs", " Can ...
, and
Brian Setzer. He also created off-stage wear for a number of his clients, including wedding outfits for
Jon Bon Jovi
John Francis Bongiovi Jr. (born March 2, 1962), known professionally as Jon Bon Jovi, is an American singer, songwriter, guitarist, and actor. He is best known as the founder and frontman of the rock band Bon Jovi, which was formed in 1983. He ...
,
Vince Neil
Vincent Neil Wharton (born February 8, 1961), best known by the stage name Vince Neil, is an American musician. He is the lead vocalist and occasional rhythm guitarist of heavy metal band Mötley Crüe, which he fronted from their 1981 forma ...
,
Tommy Lee and
John Mellencamp, as well as a black
wedding dress for the cover of
Lita Ford's never-completed ''The Bride Wore Black'' album. He created an elaborate diamond-studded leather jacket for the film ''
This Is Spinal Tap
''This Is Spinal Tap'' (also known as ''This Is Spınal Tap: A Rockumentary by Martin Di Bergi'') is a 1984 American mockumentary film co-written and directed by Rob Reiner (in his feature directorial debut). The film stars Christopher Guest, M ...
'', and in 1998 designed and made the first jackets for the then-new
Arizona Diamondbacks baseball team.
Brown designed his clothes to be durable enough for use onstage . After
Graham Bonnet ripped one of his suits onstage with Brown in the audience, Brown developed techniques aimed to ensure that his clothing would not come apart during live performances. When
Bruce Dickinson
Paul Bruce Dickinson (born 7 August 1958) is an English singer who has been the lead vocalist of the heavy metal band Iron Maiden from 1981 to 1993 and 1999–present. He is known for his wide-ranging operatic vocal style and energetic stage ...
attempted onstage to rip the sleeves from a new shirt made by Brown, the sleeves repeatedly failed to come away in front of several thousand people.
Brown began working with a new type of washable
synthetic leather
Artificial leather, also called synthetic leather, is a material intended to substitute for leather in upholstery, clothing, footwear, and other uses where a leather-like finish is desired but the actual material is cost
prohibitive or unsuitab ...
, which he found to be more durable than real leather, and less likely to rip. If the fabric got baggy at the joints, this could be easily remedied by washing it in a washing machine. Bands that preferred real leather such as
Mötley Crüe
Mötley Crüe is an American heavy metal band formed in Los Angeles in 1981. The group was founded by bassist Nikki Sixx, drummer Tommy Lee, lead guitarist Mick Mars and lead singer Vince Neil. Mötley Crüe has sold over 100 million albums ...
and Judas Priest were not wearing real leather at all while touring.
He developed a pyramid-studded type of leather with Judas Priest, and was the first to design for artists like Mötley Crüe leather clothing with skulls and crosses, commonly used as ornaments on leather today. He invented lace front leather pants for Jon Bon Jovi; lacing up the side of leather pants for Mötley Crüe, and large banners on the backs of jackets and coats, not seen outside of
motorcycle gangs before the concept was developed with Mötley Crüe. Early adopters included
Axl Rose and Jon Bon Jovi. One jacket he designed for Jon Bon Jovi was exhibited in
The Smithsonian.
Present day
Brown relocated to London in August 2008, where he has created tour clothing for
The Struts,
Muse, the
Arctic Monkeys' singer
Alex Turner, Liverpool mod
Miles Kane,
Jamiroquai,
Rival Sons,
The Darkness
Darkness is the absence of light.
Darkness or The Darkness may also refer to:
Film and television
* ''Dark'' (TV series), a 2017 German-language TV series produced by Netflix
* Darknss, a character from the film ''Legend'' (1985)
* ''Darkne ...
,
Lady Starlight
Colleen Martin (born December 23, 1975), known professionally as Lady Starlight, is an American DJ and musical performer. Based in New York City's Lower East Side, she is best known for her numerous collaborations with Lady Gaga. Starlight rele ...
, and
Thirty Seconds to Mars' singer
Jared Leto
Jared Joseph Leto ( ; born December 26, 1971) is an American actor and musician. Known for his method acting in a variety of roles, he has received numerous accolades over a career spanning three decades, including an Academy Award and a Golde ...
.
He made the outfit for
Lady Gaga for her performance with the
Rolling Stones
The Rolling Stones are an English Rock music, rock band formed in London in 1962. Active for six decades, they are one of the most popular and enduring bands of the album era, rock era. In the early 1960s, the Rolling Stones pioneered the g ...
in New Jersey on 16 December 2012.
On Brown's work,
Tony Iommi,
Black Sabbath guitarist said in 2007,
"Considering Ray only has one color (black) to work with when designing my clothes, he is always able to come-up with interesting and adventurous pieces. For over 25 years Ray has been creating my outfits for both on and off stage, yet he is still able to produce new ideas and concepts."
Exhibitions
Brown's work has been featured in exhibitions and books on the style and fashion of rock and roll. Four of his outfits were featured in
Tommy Hilfiger's book ''Rock Style: How Fashion Moves to Music''. Outfits made for Bon Jovi, Tony Iommi and Brian Setzer are with the
Rock and Roll Hall of Fame
The Rock and Roll Hall of Fame (RRHOF), sometimes simply referred to as the Rock Hall, is a museum
A museum ( ; plural museums or, rarely, musea) is a building or institution that cares for and displays a collection of artifacts and othe ...
. His work was displayed in the
Phoenix Art Museum's 1997 exhibit commemorating 1980s rock fashion:
*Judas Priest: Jacket (1991)
*Nelson Twins: Jacket, Vest and Pants (1992)
*Cher: Pair of Jeans (1993)
*
Yngwie Malmsteen: Jacket (1994)
In June 2011 the
Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery featured a display called "Home of Metal", featuring music from
Birmingham and the
Black Country
The Black Country is an area of the West Midlands county, England covering most of the Metropolitan Boroughs of Dudley, Sandwell and Walsall. Dudley and Tipton are generally considered to be the centre. It became industrialised during its ro ...
. Of the four bands featured, Judas Priest and
Black Sabbath had been clients of Brown's for 29 years. Clothing made by Brown for these two bands, plus design sketches, were part of the exhibit.
His outfits are displayed in several
Hard Rock Cafes:
*Mumbai, India, Alice Cooper display:; White Tux & Tails Used on every tour from 1986 until some fairly recent shows in North America in 1998. Worn at each concert during the performance of 'School's Out'. Can be seen on the front cover of the video 'Prime Cuts' and in the 'Alice Cooper - Trashes the World' concert video.
*Munich, Germany:
Nikki Sixx display:; Black and White Polka Dotted Outfit from "Theatre of Pain" Tour
References
*Blackman, Liz; "Styling A La Hollywood", ''L.A. Weekly'' (California), 11–17 October 1985, Full page feature in "Style" section
*Cherry, Jim; "House of Brown: Rock and Roll Costumer", ''L.A. Weekly'' (California), 26 September – 2 October 1986
*Da Cunha, Shelly; "Tailor to the Best-Dressed Bands", ''Musik Express Sounds'' (Germany), October 1986
Judas Priest InterviewKrokus Discography*White, Carrie; "Valley designer's costumes for rock 'n' roll's elite has put him A Cut Above", ''Arizona Tribune Newspapers'', Thursday 17 April 1997,
Wedding Fashions, Mother Of The Groom Wedding Fashions
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Brown, Ray
Australian fashion designers
Living people
1959 births