
Pateh (, IPA:
pæte; also
Romanize
In linguistics, romanization is the conversion of text from a different writing system to the Roman (Latin) script, or a system for doing so. Methods of romanization include transliteration, for representing written text, and transcription, ...
d as ''pateh'') is an Iranian traditional
needlework
Needlework refers to decorative sewing and other textile arts, textile handicrafts that involve the use of a Sewing needle, needle. Needlework may also include related textile crafts like crochet (which uses a crochet hook, hook), or tatting, ( ...
folk art
Folk art covers all forms of visual art made in the context of folk culture. Definitions vary, but generally the objects have practical utility of some kind, rather than being exclusively decorative art, decorative. The makers of folk art a ...
. It originated in and is largely associated with
Kerman province
Kerman province () is the largest of the 31 provinces of Iran. Its capital is the city of Kerman.
The province is in the southeast of Iran. In 2014 it was placed in Region 5. Mentioned in ancient times as the Achaemenid satrapy of Carma ...
, where it is produced by women. A wide piece of wool fabric (''ariz'') is needleworked with colored thread.
Pateh needlework is done in
silk
Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), c ...
and with flourishes of
paisley pattern
Paisley or paisley pattern is an ornamental textile design using the '' boteh'' () or ''buta'', a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end. Of Persian origin, paisley designs became popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centuries, follo ...
s. Popular designs include the cypress tree and the sun, both of which are traditional Persian symbols.
History
Pateh originated and developed in Kerman province. Although its exact origin is unclear, it is assumed that it was influenced by Kerman
rug weaving and thus does not predate the latter.
The oldest pateh known is dated to the 18th century.
Many valuable pateh pieces are held in art museums, particularly in Tehran. The oldest and most valuable pateh known is kept in the Astaneh Museum in
Mahan, Kerman and dates to 1294
AH (1877 CE). It was created over the course of three years by twelve women. Governor Shahab al-Mulk ordered its creation so that it could be dedicated to the shrine of
Shah Nimatullah Wali
Shāh Nimatullāh or Shāh Ni'matullāh Wali ( ''Shāh Ne'matullāh-i Valī''), also spelled as ''Ne'matollah'' and ''Ni'matallah'' was the spiritual leader or Qutb of the Ni'matullah Order in Iran from the 14th and 15th centuries. He is rever ...
, a
dervish
Dervish, Darvesh, or Darwīsh (from ) in Islam can refer broadly to members of a Sufi fraternity (''tariqah''), or more narrowly to a religious mendicant, who chose or accepted material poverty. The latter usage is found particularly in Persi ...
and poet who was born in Kerman.
The length of this work is 355 and its width is 210 cm, which was woven by Kermani women. In Kerman province, there are currently more than 50,000 artisans employed in this sector.
Employment in Pateh needlework
Retrieved 25 April 2024.
Structure
Pateh mainly consists of two parts: "shawl" (''ariz'') and thread. The ''ariz'' is a thick cloth, usually wool, and the thread that is worked into it is colored wool. Threads are dyed naturally, usually with henna
Henna is a reddish dye prepared from the dried and powdered leaves of the henna tree. It has been used since at least the ancient Egyptian period as a hair and body dye, notably in the temporary body art of mehndi (or "henna tattoo") resulti ...
, pomegranate
The pomegranate (''Punica granatum'') is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punica, Punicoideae, that grows between tall. Rich in symbolic and mythological associations in many cultures, it is thought to have o ...
, madder or the walnut
A walnut is the edible seed of any tree of the genus '' Juglans'' (family Juglandaceae), particularly the Persian or English walnut, '' Juglans regia''. They are accessory fruit because the outer covering of the fruit is technically an i ...
's green husk
Husk (or hull) in botany is the outer shell or coating of a seed. In the United States, the term husk often refers to the leafy outer covering of an Ear (botany), ear of maize (corn) as it grows on the plant. Literally, a husk or hull includes t ...
.
The patterns which are used in Pateh are normally divided into two main groups: "The Paisley" and "The Tree". One of the most popular patterns consists of four Paisleys on the corners and a '' toranj'' at the center. Sometimes flower bouquets are being used instead of paisley. Another common design is called ''mihrab
''Mihrab'' (, ', pl. ') is a niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the ''qibla'', the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca towards which Muslims should face when praying. The wall in which a ''mihrab'' appears is thus the "''qibla'' wall".
...
'' in which an arch
An arch is a curved vertical structure spanning an open space underneath it. Arches may support the load above them, or they may perform a purely decorative role. As a decorative element, the arch dates back to the 4th millennium BC, but stru ...
is being made on the top of the pateh. However, one of the essential parts in a design for pateh is margin which is typically filled with flowers or different kinds of paisley.
See also
* Iranian handicrafts
Iranian handicrafts are handicraft or handmade crafted works originating from Iran.
Basketry and wickerwork
* , a bamboo Wicker, wickerwork or textile, used to make floor mats, stools, and fans.
* , a palm leaf basketry.
* , an indigenous boat ...
* Handicrafts of Kerman
Kerman are types of traditional Iranian artwork relating to the culture and history of Iran from the province of Kerman. Handicrafts include traditional embroidery known as Pateh, Kerman carpet, carpets, fretwork on wood, jajeems (loosely wove ...
* Persian embroidery
* Rasht embroidery
References
{{Reflist
Persian handicrafts
Needlework
Kerman province
Textile arts of Persia