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Pateh ( fa, پته, IPA: pæte; also
Romanize Romanization or romanisation, in linguistics, is the conversion of text from a different writing system to the Roman (Latin) script, or a system for doing so. Methods of romanization include transliteration, for representing written text, and ...
d as ''pateh'') is an Iranian traditional
needlework Needlework is decorative sewing and textile arts handicrafts. Anything that uses a needle for construction can be called needlework. Needlework may include related textile crafts such as crochet, worked with a hook, or tatting, worked with ...
folk art Folk art covers all forms of visual art made in the context of folk culture. Definitions vary, but generally the objects have practical utility of some kind, rather than being exclusively decorative. The makers of folk art are typically tr ...
. It originated in and is largely associated with Kerman province, where it is produced by women. A wide piece of wool fabric (''ariz'') is needleworked with colored thread. Pateh needlework is done in
silk Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the ...
and with flourishes of
paisley pattern Paisley or paisley pattern is an ornamental textile design using the '' boteh'' ( fa, بته) or ''buta'', a teardrop-shaped motif with a curved upper end. Of Persian origin, paisley designs became popular in the West in the 18th and 19th centu ...
s. Popular designs include the cypress tree and the sun, both of which are traditional pre-Islamic Persian symbols.


History

Pateh originated and developed in Kerman province. Although its exact origin is unclear, it is assumed that it was influenced by Kerman rug weaving and thus does not predate the latter. The oldest pateh known is dated to the 18th century. Many valuable pateh pieces are held in art museums, particularly in Tehran. The oldest and most valuable pateh known is kept in the Astaneh Museum in Mahan, Kerman and dates to 1294 AH (1877 CE). It was created over the course of three years by twelve women. Governor Shahab al-Mulk ordered its creation so that it could be dedicated to the shrine of
Shah Nimatullah Wali Shāh Nimatullāh or Shāh Ni'matullāh Wali, ( fa, شاه نعمت‌الله ولی ''Shāh Ne'matullāh-i Valī''), also spelled as ''Ne'matollah'' and ''Ni'matallah'' was the spiritual leader or Qutb of the Ni'matullah Order in Iran from th ...
, a
dervish Dervish, Darvesh, or Darwīsh (from fa, درویش, ''Darvīsh'') in Islam can refer broadly to members of a Sufi fraternity (''tariqah''), or more narrowly to a religious mendicant, who chose or accepted material poverty. The latter usage ...
and poet who was born in Kerman.


Structure

Pateh mainly consists of two parts: "shawl" (''ariz'') and thread. The ''ariz'' is a thick cloth, usually wool, and the thread that is worked into it is colored wool. Threads are dyed naturally, usually with
henna Henna is a dye prepared from the plant '' Lawsonia inermis'', also known as the henna tree, the mignonette tree, and the Egyptian privet, the sole species of the genus ''Lawsonia''. ''Henna'' can also refer to the temporary body art resulting ...
,
pomegranate The pomegranate (''Punica granatum'') is a fruit-bearing deciduous shrub in the family Lythraceae, subfamily Punicoideae, that grows between tall. The pomegranate was originally described throughout the Mediterranean Basin, Mediterranean re ...
, madder or the
walnut A walnut is the edible seed of a drupe of any tree of the genus '' Juglans'' (family Juglandaceae), particularly the Persian or English walnut, '' Juglans regia''. Although culinarily considered a "nut" and used as such, it is not a tru ...
's green
husk Husk (or hull) in botany is the outer shell or coating of a seed. In the United States, the term husk often refers to the leafy outer covering of an ear of maize (corn) as it grows on the plant. Literally, a husk or hull includes the protective ...
. The patterns which are used in Pateh are normally divided into two main groups: "The Paisley" and "The Tree". One of the most popular patterns consists of four Paisleys on the corners and a '' toranj'' at the center. Sometimes flower bouquets are being used instead of paisley. Another common design is called ''
mihrab Mihrab ( ar, محراب, ', pl. ') is a niche in the wall of a mosque that indicates the '' qibla'', the direction of the Kaaba in Mecca towards which Muslims should face when praying. The wall in which a ''mihrab'' appears is thus the "qibla ...
'' in which an
arch An arch is a vertical curved structure that spans an elevated space and may or may not support the weight above it, or in case of a horizontal arch like an arch dam, the hydrostatic pressure against it. Arches may be synonymous with vau ...
is being made on the top of the pateh. However, one of the essential parts in a design for pateh is margin which is typically filled with flowers or different kinds of paisley.


See also

*
Iranian handicrafts Iranian handicrafts are handicraft or handmade crafted works originating from Iran. Basketry and wickerwork * , a bamboo wickerwork or textile, used to make floor mats, stools, and fans. * , a palm leaf basketry. * , an indigenous boat made of ...
* Handicrafts of Kerman *
Persian embroidery Persian embroidery is a Persian art and handicraft. History It has been speculated that Persian embroidery existed from ancient times and at least from the time of the Sasanian Empire, based on numerous designs are visible on rock sculptures a ...
* Rasht embroidery


References

{{Reflist, colwidth=30em Persian handicrafts Needlework Kerman Province Textile arts of Persia