Noseriding
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Noseriding is the act of riding the front end of a
surfboard A surfboard is a narrow plank used in surfing. Surfboards are relatively light, but are strong enough to support an individual standing on them while riding an ocean wave. They were invented in ancient Hawaii, where they were known as ''papa hee ...
. It is one of the most accomplished maneuvers in surfing. Some advanced maneuvers include:
hang ten "hang ten" is a nickname for any of several maneuvers used in sports, especially surfing, wherein all ten toes or fingers are used to accomplish the maneuver. * surfing: the surfer stands and hangs all their toes over the nose of the board. Us ...
toes, hang five toes, stretch-five, front foot/heel hang, and back foot/heel hang. Noseriding is a functional maneuvers best performed on waves around head high or less in size. Noseriding is performed mainly on noserider-style surfboards, which are generally or more in length, with larger surface area and higher water displacement to provide a more stable walking surface.


Background

American surfer and writer Matt Warshaw wrote, "Noseriding wasn't identified as a maneuvers unto itself until the early 1950s, after the
surfboard fin A surfboard fin or skeg is a hydrofoil mounted at the tail of a surfboard or similar board to improve directional stability and control through foot-steering. Fins can provide lift (force), lateral lift opposed to the water and stabilize the b ...
had grown big enough to really anchor the tail." According to most surfing historians, the fin was invented by Tom Blake around 1935, for the purpose of anchoring the
tail The tail is the elongated section at the rear end of a bilaterian animal's body; in general, the term refers to a distinct, flexible appendage extending backwards from the midline of the torso. In vertebrate animals that evolution, evolved to los ...
and giving the surfboard direction from the tail to the tip. The fin enabled skilled surfers to walk to the front of the board without the tail skipping out from the wave. In 1947, Joe Quigg recorded, in drawings and words, the noseriding skill of Rabbit Kekai on waves at "Outer Queens" near Waikiki,
Hawaii Hawaii ( ; ) is an island U.S. state, state of the United States, in the Pacific Ocean about southwest of the U.S. mainland. One of the two Non-contiguous United States, non-contiguous U.S. states (along with Alaska), it is the only sta ...
. One of the first commercial surfboard manufacturers, Dale Vezy, is credited as being the first to get to the nose to hang five and hang ten in the early 1950s. Noseriding is widely considered the origin of "extreme" surfing and had become such a popular trick by the late 1950s that Surfer Magazine publisher
John Severson John Severson (SEA-ver-son, 1933–2017) was an American editor, author, filmmaker and artist, widely known as the founder of '' Surfer'', a magazine focused on the sport and culture of surfing. Severson also created a diverse body of artwork ded ...
devoted a regular feature to it called "Toes on the Nose", starting with his debut issue of Surfer in 1960. Noseriding defined the surfers of the 1950s led by Rabbit Kekai, Matt Kivlin and Joe Quigg. Then came the champion surfers of the 1960s including Lance Carson, Phil Edwards,
Dewey Weber David Earl Weber (August 18, 1938, in Denver, Colorado – January 6, 1993), known as Dewey Weber, was an American surfer, a popular surfing film subject, and a successful surfboard manufacturing businessman. Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, he d ...
, Mickey Muñoz, Joey Cabell,
Donald Takayama Donald Moke Takayama (November 16, 1943 – October 22, 2012) was an American professional surfer and surfboard shaper. Originally a longboard surfer, Takayama won the Master's division of the United States Surfing Champions in 1971, 1972 and ...
,
Skip Frye Skip Frye (born Harry Richard Frye; September 7, 1941 in San Diego, California) is an American surfer, surfboard designer and shaper, and environmental activist. Background Frye attended Mission Bay High School and began his professional surfin ...
,
David Nuuhiwa David Kealohalani Nuuhiwa III (more commonly known as David Nuuhiwa; born 1948) is an American Hawaiian surfer. Life Nuuhiwa was born in 1948 in Honolulu, Hawaii, Territory of Hawaii. He is the son of a Waikiki beachboy and martial arts instr ...
, Gary Proper, Claude Codgen and Bob Purvey. The modern generation of noseriding surfer champions include
Joel Tudor Joel Tudor is an American surfer, primarily known for longboarding, and a competitive grappler from San Diego, California. Biography Professional Surf career Tudor became a professional surfer at 14 and won his first professional ASP competi ...
, CJ Nelson and
Chad Marshall Chad Marshall (born August 22, 1984) is an American former professional soccer player. During his 16-year career, he played for Columbus Crew and Seattle Sounders FC in Major League Soccer. Regarded as one of the league's greatest players of a ...
. Current toe-pointing women Association of Surfing Professional's World Tour champions include Kelia Moniz from Hawaii, Belinda Baggs from
Australia Australia, officially the Commonwealth of Australia, is a country comprising mainland Australia, the mainland of the Australia (continent), Australian continent, the island of Tasmania and list of islands of Australia, numerous smaller isl ...
, Chloe Calmon from
Brazil Brazil, officially the Federative Republic of Brazil, is the largest country in South America. It is the world's List of countries and dependencies by area, fifth-largest country by area and the List of countries and dependencies by population ...
and Kassia Meador from the
USA The United States of America (USA), also known as the United States (U.S.) or America, is a country primarily located in North America. It is a federal republic of 50 states and a federal capital district, Washington, D.C. The 48 contiguous ...
. Throughout the 1950s and 1960s, surfboard designers experimented with a variety of components to make the nose hold up longer, and noserider surfboard designs became popularly-sold items during the 1960s. The combinations of template (outline shape), thickness, weight, rocker, rail shape, concaves, convexes, flats and fins vary with the individual surfer's style and size, and continue to be an experiment. To this day, noserider designs continue to be refined. So far the knowledge bank has established certain
principle A principle may relate to a fundamental truth or proposition that serves as the foundation for a system of beliefs or behavior or a chain of reasoning. They provide a guide for behavior or evaluation. A principle can make values explicit, so t ...
s: Concave under the nose creates an air pocket that helps the nose stay up longer; complementing the concave nose is a kicked-up tail that would catch water to keep the tail down. While an accomplished surfer can nose ride a narrow shortboard nose, a wide nose (about wide) is considered a better platform for stability and lift. Rail shape can significantly affect the maneuverability from the nose. Rail shapes vary from turned up rails, which are found in most of today's noseriders, to turned down rails. Turned-up rails allow the board to turn easier from the tip, while the turned-down rail forces the board to stay in a trim and limits the turning ability from the tip. Of course, placement of the turned up or turned down rail is important. Turned up rails work best around the nose, while turned down rails work best around the tail. How much turn-down or turn up is measured in percentages, i.e., 70/30 means 70% down and 30% up. Lighter board weights enable the board to stay higher on the water, so it can travel faster and allow the board to respond quicker, and a lighter board allows for a thinner board. Single fins are preferred, albeit, fin configurations have a wide open frontier, as are weights and thickness. Noseriding is achieved mostly when the surfer positions themselves and the board where the wave is formed into the most vertical wall, just before the wave breaks.
Point Break ''Point Break'' is a 1991 American action film directed by Kathryn Bigelow and written by W. Peter Iliff. It stars Patrick Swayze, Keanu Reeves, Lori Petty and Gary Busey. The film's title refers to the surfing term " point break", where a ...
waves are ideal for noseriding because the wave travels from the point to the cove and gives the surfer a long ride where a "hook" is formed with the most vertical wall that travels down the line, like a
zipper A zipper (N. America), zip, zip fastener (UK), formerly known as a clasp locker, is a commonly used device for binding together two edges of textile, fabric or other flexible material. Used in clothing (e.g. jackets and jeans), luggage and oth ...
, from one end to the other. Immediately after the hook is the
white water Whitewater forms in the context of rapids, in particular, when a river's gradient changes enough to generate so much turbulence that air is trapped within the water. This forms an unstable current that froths, making the water appear opaque ...
, where the wave implodes. It is best to avoid the white water but with a noserider surfboard, an accomplished surfer can ride through or manoeuvre around the imploding wave while remaining on the nose. One of the most difficult noseriding manoeuvres is to get tubed while on the tip. It is not impossible to stay on the nose while out on the flat shoulder of the wave either. A noserider surfboard with a deep concave can carry a surfer on a wave that does not have a steep wall. The surfer must be prepared to back off the nose in this flat area of the wave because it has the least air traveling under the nose, so riding onto the flat of the wave while on the nose could cause the nose to suddenly dip into the water under the full weight of the surfer. In 1965,
Tom Morey Tom Hugh Morey (15 August 1935 – 14 October 2021), also known by the moniker Y, was a musician, engineer, surfboard shaper, and surfer responsible for several technological innovations that have heavily influenced modern developments in surfin ...
(inventor of the "Morey-Boogie" body board) devised the first professional surf contest around timing nose rides. The "nose" area was defined as the front 25% of the board. While success at this subgenre is grossly measured in proximity to the tip of the board and time spent there, the acknowledged stylists move forward and backward fluidly on the board by cross-stepping or "walking" foot-over-foot and/or shuffling with poise and economy of movement, resolving changes in upward pressure with subtle adjustments to their
center of gravity In physics, the center of mass of a distribution of mass in space (sometimes referred to as the barycenter or balance point) is the unique point at any given time where the weighted relative position of the distributed mass sums to zero. For ...
using knees, waist and hips (upper bodies ever quiet) and position on the board; never the arms waving.


See also

*
Glossary of surfing This glossary of surfing includes some of the extensive vocabulary used to describe various aspects of the sport of surfing as described in literature on the subject. In some cases terms have spread to a wider cultural use. These terms were origi ...


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Nose ride Surfing Surfing terminology