Niche Perfume
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Niche perfume is an alternative to mass perfume production. Niche is limited by the clientele and therefore with a limited sale range, thus the goal of niche houses is not to sell as much as possible. These companies are generally smaller than the major fragrance firms like Coty Inc.,
Puig Puig () is a word and surname of Catalan origin, meaning "hill" or "peak". The word derives from Latin ''podium'' meaning "balcony". Geographical features * Puig-l'agulla, a mountain of Catalonia * Puig de l'Àliga (Sant Pere de Torelló), a mo ...
, and
Firmenich Firmenich SA was a Swiss company in the fragrance and flavor business. The company has created perfumes for over 125 years and produced a number of well-known flavors. Founded in 1895, it merged in May 2023 with the Dutch company DSM to form ...
, but bigger than "indie perfume" lines that are generally owned and operated by the perfumer themselves. Especially since the 2010s, however, the distinction has blurred as more and more niche perfume brands have been purchased by a larger parent corporation.


History

In the last decades of the 20th century and first years of the 21st, niche perfumery gained a following especially in Europe and North America among people looking for unique scents, as niche houses generally made smaller batches than designer or celebrity fragrances and were thus less ubiquitous at a given moment. In
Luca Turin Luca Turin (born 20 November 1953) is a biophysicist and writer with a long-standing interest in bioelectronics, the sense of smell, perfumery, and the fragrance industry. Early life and education Turin was born in Beirut, Lebanon on 20 November ...
and Tania Sanchez's '' Perfumes: The A-Z Guide'' (2010), Turin pinpoints
L'Artisan Parfumeur L'Artisan Parfumeur is a French niche perfume house owned by Puig company from Spain, which also owns British perfume house Penhaligon's. History L’Artisan Parfumeur was established in 1976 by Jean Laporte. In 1982, he left the company, going o ...
, founded 1976, as "the first niche firm", and in the series’ second volume, names the opening of New York City perfume boutique Aedes de Venustas in 1995 as marking "the earliest days of the Cambrian Explosion of Niche." In the 2010s, following a decade of decline for mass market fragrances, international luxury conglomerates purchased many niche lines and put them into wider distribution. Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. was an early entrant to this sector, buying the British niche brand
Jo Malone London Jo Malone London is a British multinational cosmetics company, perfume and scented candle brand, founded by Jo Malone in 1990. It has been owned since 1999 by Estée Lauder. The brand is known for its perfumes, candles, bath products, and roo ...
in 1999 (the founder, Jo Malone, stayed on as creative director until 2006, then left and eventually formed a new niche line called Jo Loves.) Estée Lauder's niche acquisitions accelerated in the 2010s, buying Éditions de Parfums Frédéric Malle and
Le Labo Le Labo ( French: "the lab") is a slow perfumery brand born in Grasse, France, based in New York City and owned by Estée Lauder. History Le Labo was founded in 2006 in New York City by two friends. Le Labo was purchased by Estée Lauder ...
in 2014 and By Kilian in 2016. Also in 2016, Spanish perfume conglomerate Puig purchased
Penhaligon's Penhaligon's is a British perfume house founded in the late 1860s by William Henry Penhaligon, a Cornish barber who moved to London and became Court Barber and Perfumer to Queen Victoria. History William Penhaligon started his working life as ...
and L'Artisan Parfumeur and
L'Oréal L'Oréal S.A. () is a French multinational personal care corporation registered in Paris
acquired Atelier Cologne. In 2017,
LVMH LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton SE (), commonly known as LVMH, is a French multinational holding company and conglomerate that specializes in luxury goods and has its headquarters in Paris, France. The company was formed in 1987 through the ...
bought
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Maison (French for "house") may refer to: People * Edna Maison (1892–1946), American silent-film actress * Jérémy Maison (born 1993), French cyclist * Leonard Maison, New York state senator 1834–1837 * Nicolas Joseph Maison (1771–1840), M ...
. These changes complicated the concept of niche perfumery as many niche perfumes became as widely available and ubiquitous as designer perfume—where the latter had sometimes been termed "department store perfume", now many niche lines became frequently available in department stores as well. A September 2020 article in ''
Marie Claire ''Marie Claire'' (stylized in all lowercase; ) is a French international monthly magazine first published in France in 1937. Since then various editions are published in many countries and languages. The feature editions focus on women aro ...
'' touting "Niche Perfumes That'll Set You Apart From the Crowd" mentioned
Chanel No. 5 Chanel No. 5 is the first perfume launched by French couturier Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel in 1921. The scent formula for the fragrance was compounded by French-Russian chemist and perfumer Ernest Beaux. The design of its bottle has been an imp ...
and Le Labo
Santal 33 Santal 33 is a 2011 sandalwood perfume by niche perfume line Le Labo. It was initially proposed as a personal fragrance by perfumer Frank Voelkl, but Le Labo founders Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi cut it from the perfume line for their 2006 lau ...
–the latter a formerly exclusive niche scent—together as now broadly familiar fragrances to avoid in favor of more obscure niche lines.


See also

*
Olivia Giacobetti Olivia Giacobetti (born 1966) is a French perfumer. She has an independent line called Iunx and has also created fragrances for Diptyque, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Guerlain, and Hermès, among other lines. She is particularly known for a refined styl ...
*
Bertrand Duchaufour Bertrand Duchaufour () is a French perfumer. He has had a prolific career, beginning in Grasse at Lautier Florasynth and continuing for a number of fragragrance firms as well as working independently and as the house perfumer for L'Artisan Parfumeu ...
*
Jean-Claude Ellena Jean-Claude Ellena (born 1947) is a French perfumer and writer. He served as the in-house perfumer at Hermes from 2004 to 2016, prior to the appointment of incumbent Christine Nagel. He has collaborated with other major brands such as Van Cle ...


References

{{reflist Cosmetic industry Perfumery