Matt Kramer (wine)
   HOME

TheInfoList



OR:

Matt Kramer is an American
wine Wine is an alcoholic drink made from Fermentation in winemaking, fermented fruit. Yeast in winemaking, Yeast consumes the sugar in the fruit and converts it to ethanol and carbon dioxide, releasing heat in the process. Wine is most often made f ...
critic A critic is a person who communicates an assessment and an opinion of various forms of creative works such as Art criticism, art, Literary criticism, literature, Music journalism, music, Film criticism, cinema, Theater criticism, theater, Fas ...
since 1976. He is a columnist for ''
The Oregonian ''The Oregonian'' is a daily newspaper based in Portland, Oregon, United States, owned by Advance Publications. It is the oldest continuously published newspaper on the West Coast of the United States, U.S. West Coast, founded as a weekly by Tho ...
'', was a columnist for ''
The New York Sun ''The New York Sun'' is an American Conservatism in the United States, conservative Online newspaper, news website and former newspaper based in Manhattan, Manhattan, New York. From 2009 to 2021, it operated as an (occasional and erratic) onlin ...
'' before its demise in 2008, and previously for ''
Los Angeles Times The ''Los Angeles Times'' is an American Newspaper#Daily, daily newspaper that began publishing in Los Angeles, California, in 1881. Based in the Greater Los Angeles city of El Segundo, California, El Segundo since 2018, it is the List of new ...
'', and since 1985 is a regular contributor to '' Wine Spectator''. He has been described as "perhaps the most un-American of all America's wine writers", by Mike Steinberger as "one of the more insightful and entertaining wine writers around", and by Hugh Johnson as "an intellectual guerrilla among wine writers".Prial, Frank J., ''The New York Times'' (October 8, 2003)
'Making Sense' Still Making Sense
/ref> Among his publications are the books ''Making Sense of Wine'' (1989), ''Making Sense of Burgundy'' (1990), ''Making Sense of California Wine'', (1992), ''Making Sense of Italian Wine'' (2006) and ''Matt Kramer on Wine''.


Career

Kramer describes in ''Making Sense of Wine'' how he began his career as a wine writer in 1976, then a food writer of a weekly paper, in a meeting with his publisher. As the advertising department had altered the food page contents to include a "wine of the week" column, to the advertisers' approval, Kramer was told that he would write this new column. Kramer resisted, saying, "But I don't know anything about wine", but the publisher replied, "That's all right. Neither does anyone else".


Contentions

Considered an advocate of the concept of ''
terroir (; ; from ''terre'', ) is a French language, French term used to describe the environmental factors that affect a crop's phenotype, including unique environment contexts, farming practices and a crop's specific growth habitat. Collectively, th ...
'', Kramer is credited with defining the term as a wine’s "somewhereness", a frequently quoted definition.Prial, Frank J., ''The New York Times'' (September 2, 1992)
Wine Talk
/ref> Kramer has, like Allen Meadows, expressed concern on what they consider over-reliance among
California California () is a U.S. state, state in the Western United States that lies on the West Coast of the United States, Pacific Coast. It borders Oregon to the north, Nevada and Arizona to the east, and shares Mexico–United States border, an ...
Pinot noir Pinot noir (), also known as Pinot nero, is a red-wine grape variety of the species ''Vitis vinifera''. The name also refers to wines created predominantly from Pinot noir grapes. The name is derived from the French language, French words fo ...
growers on using limited variation series of
Burgundy Burgundy ( ; ; Burgundian: ''Bregogne'') is a historical territory and former administrative region and province of east-central France. The province was once home to the Dukes of Burgundy from the early 11th until the late 15th century. ...
clones from
Dijon Dijon (, ; ; in Burgundian language (Oïl), Burgundian: ''Digion'') is a city in and the Prefectures in France, prefecture of the Côte-d'Or Departments of France, department and of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté Regions of France, region in eas ...
in their practice, citing this as one reason that so many California pinot noirs have similar taste and lack complexity, and have urged growers to aim for a more varied mix of clones. On the debate on
wine cellar A wine cellar is a storage room for wine in bottles or barrels, or more rarely in carboys, amphorae, or plastic containers. In an ''active'' wine cellar, important factors such as temperature and humidity are maintained by a climate control s ...
humidity Humidity is the concentration of water vapor present in the air. Water vapor, the gaseous state of water, is generally invisible to the human eye. Humidity indicates the likelihood for precipitation (meteorology), precipitation, dew, or fog t ...
, Kramer states in ''Making Sense of Wine'', "the precept that a home cellar should be humid is a relic of the past" due to the inherent humidity within the bottles themselves, and are "impervious to moisture or humidity-laden air", concluding, "humidity in the home cellar is an irrelevancy". Kramer was the target of criticism by Australian wine writer James Halliday who stated Kramer was "even more misguided than Robert Parker". Halliday spoke in reaction to what he perceived to be "Kramer's suggestions of big company taste fixing", which he called "farcical". Reacting to a statement by
Jancis Robinson Jancis Mary Robinson OBE, ComMA, MW (born 22 April 1950) is a British wine critic, journalist and wine writer. She currently writes a weekly column for the ''Financial Times'', and writes for her website JancisRobinson.com, updated daily. She ...
who reported the result of a PROP test that suggested she might be a
supertaster Supertasters are individuals whose sense of taste for certain flavors and foods, such as chocolate, is far more sensitive than the average person. The term originated with experimental psychologist Linda Bartoshuk and is not the result of respo ...
, and a following admission by Robert Parker that he does not care for mildly spicy or seasoned food,Yarrow, Alder, vinography.com (July 20, 2006)
The Blogger and The Critic's Golden Tastebuds
/ref> lead Kramer to criticize wine critics in his ''New York Sun'' column, pointing to "almost desperate attempt by some of today's wine tasting potentates to bolster their credibility by suggesting a physical superiority". Kramer summarized that, "suggesting a linkage of taste buds to wine judgment is like confusing eyesight with insight". Robinson later addressed the issue in an article that suggested Kramer may not have read Robinson's own account before publishing his column, stressing that to suggest physical superiority "was the last thing hewas attempting".


Bibliography

*''Making Sense of Wine'' (1989, revised and updated 2004) *''Making Sense of Burgundy'' (1990) *''Making Sense of California Wine'' (1992) *''Passion for Piedmont'' (1997) *''Matt Kramer's New California Wine'' (2004) *''Matt Kramer's Making Sense of Italian Wine'' (2006) *''Matt Kramer on Wine: A Matchless Collection of Columns, Essays, and Observations by America's most original and lucid Wine Writer'' (2010)


See also

* List of wine personalities


References


External links


Matt Kramer articles in ''The New York Sun''

Matt Kramer articles in ''The Oregonian''
{{DEFAULTSORT:Kramer, Matt Year of birth missing (living people) Living people American wine critics Oregon wine The Oregonian people