Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998)
is an American professional
rock climber
Rock climbing is a sport in which participants climb up, across, or down natural rock formations. The goal is to reach the summit of a formation or the endpoint of a usually pre-defined route without falling. Rock climbing is a physically an ...
from
Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the
Bouldering
Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help sec ...
and
Lead Climbing events at the World Youth Championships in
Guangzhou
Guangzhou (, ; ; or ; ), also known as Canton () and alternatively romanized as Kwongchow or Kwangchow, is the capital and largest city of Guangdong province in southern China. Located on the Pearl River about north-northwest of Hong ...
(
China). In 2017, she became the
first woman in history to climb a graded route.
Early life
Originally a gymnast who trained at CATS Gymnastics in Boulder,
Hayes began climbing at age 10. She joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was coached by
Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou
Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou (born 8 August 1963), is an American rock climber and rock climbing coach. In competition lead climbing, she is a 4-time World Cup champion (1992, 1993, 1994, 1995), and won the biennial World Championships in 1995. Sh ...
.
Hayes' grandfather, Dr. James Morrissey, led the first successful climb of the
Kangshung Face on
Mt. Everest
Mount Everest (; Tibetan: ''Chomolungma'' ; ) is Earth's highest mountain above sea level, located in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas. The China–Nepal border runs across its summit point. Its elevation (snow heig ...
and her father spent time climbing in
Yosemite Valley
Yosemite Valley ( ; ''Yosemite'', Miwok for "killer") is a glacial valley in Yosemite National Park in the western Sierra Nevada mountains of Central California. The valley is about long and deep, surrounded by high granite summits such as ...
.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
As part of the US National Team, Hayes has competed in all three disciplines (
lead climbing,
speed climbing
Speed climbing is a climbing discipline in which speed is the ultimate goal. Speed climbing is done on rocks, walls and poles and is only recommended for highly skilled and experienced climbers.
Competition speed climbing, which takes place on a ...
, and
bouldering
Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers use climbing shoes to help sec ...
) of the
International Federation of Sport Climbing
The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) is the international governing body for the sport of competitive climbing, which consists of the disciplines lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering. It was founded in Frankfurt on 27 ...
competitions. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in
Arco, Italy
Arco is a ''comune'' in Trentino-Alto Adige in northern Italy.
The town is faced on one side by sheer limestone cliffs jutting up like a wall protecting it and its ancient hilltop castle.
King Francis II of the Two Sicilies died here in 1894.
...
Hayes won silver both in bouldering and lead, behind
Janja Garnbret.
In 2016, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in
Guangzhou
Guangzhou (, ; ; or ; ), also known as Canton () and alternatively romanized as Kwongchow or Kwangchow, is the capital and largest city of Guangdong province in southern China. Located on the Pearl River about north-northwest of Hong ...
(
China), she competed in the Juniors category, winning both the bouldering and lead events, placing 15th in speed, and placing first in the overall standings.
In the same year, Hayes won a Golden Piton award from
Climbing Magazine
''Climbing'' is a major US-based rock climbing magazine first published in 1970. In 2007, it was bought by Skram Media, the publisher of ''Urban Climber Magazine''. The headquarters of the magazine is in Boulder, Colorado. It is published nine t ...
for successfully climbing 14 routes graded 5.14.
Hayes was one of four women to earn a spot on the 2019 U.S. Overall National Team as a first step to qualifying for the 2020 Olympics climbing competition.
Rock climbing
On February 26, 2017, Hayes became the
first-ever woman in history to climb a graded route when she ascended ''
La Rambla'', in Siurana,
Spain
, image_flag = Bandera de España.svg
, image_coat = Escudo de España (mazonado).svg
, national_motto = '' Plus ultra'' ( Latin)(English: "Further Beyond")
, national_anthem = (English: "Royal March")
, ...
).
On September 24, 2017, she also completed the
third-ever female ascent of a when she ascended ''
Realization/Biographie'', in
Céüse
Céüse (french: Montagne de Céüse) is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département'' of France near Gap and Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is included in the Natura 2000 protected area. ...
, in
France
France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of overseas regions and territories in the Americas and the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian Oceans. Its metropolitan ar ...
.
In March 2019, Hayes completed her third , climbing ''Papichulo'' at Oliana, Spain, and thus completing the trilogy of the "benchmark" and most notable graded routes.
Personal life
In 2016 she won a prize in a scholastic art show.
Rankings
* 2019 - USA Climbing Open Bouldering Championships - Bronze
* 2018 - IFSC Climbing World Championships Female Boulder - 10th
* 2017 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Combined - Bronze
* 2017 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
* 2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold
* 2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Lead - Silver
* 2016 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Gold
* 2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold
* 2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Lead - Gold
* 2015 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver
* 2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Boulder - Silver
* 2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Lead - Silver
Notable ascents
Redpointed routes
:
:* ''Papichulo'' –
Oliana (
ESP) – March 24, 2019 – First female ascent.
Hayes became the first female to complete the "9a+ trilogy" of ''La Rambla'', ''Biographie'' and ''Papichulo''.
[
:* '' Realization/Biographie'' – ]Céüse
Céüse (french: Montagne de Céüse) is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département'' of France near Gap and Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is included in the Natura 2000 protected area. ...
( FRA) – September 24, 2017 – First female ascent of one of sport climbings most iconic routes.
:* '' La Rambla'' – Siurana ( ESP) – February 26, 2017 – First-ever female ascent in history of a consensus climb.[Historique! Margo Hayes, 18 ans, enchaîne « La Rambla », 9a+!]
on planetgrimpe.com
:
:* ''Bad Girls Club'' – Wicked Cave (Rifle Mountain Park. ( USA) – August 2016 – First female ascent.
:
:* ''The Crew'' – Rifle Mountain Park (Colorado, ( USA) – June 2016.Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle
on ''rockandice.com''
Filmography
* ''Break on Through'' - 2017 film directed by
Matty Hong, documenting Hayes' ascent of ''La Rambla'' and ''Biographie'', featured on
Reel Rock 12.
See also
*
Notable first free ascents
References
External links
*
*
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Hayes, Margo
1998 births
Living people
American female climbers
Sportspeople from Boulder, Colorado
Competitors at the 2017 World Games
21st-century American women