La Rambla (climb)

''La Rambla'' is a sport climb at the limestone El Pati crag in Siurana, Catalonia in Spain. Originally bolted and climbed by Alexander Huber in 1994 as a route, the bolting was later extended by to a route, which was eventually climbed by Ramón Julián Puigblanque in 2003. While there has been debate about ''La Ramblas grade, there is now consensus that it meets the threshold. It is an important and historic route in climbing, and is part of the coveted "9a+ trilogy" with '' Realization'' and ''Papichulo''.

History

While a route was first bolted by Huber in 1993, a hold broke at the upper section and Huber was only able to climb to an intermediate anchor at , and not to his final anchor that was also the final anchor for Huber's neighboring route, ''La Reina Mora'' . Huber climbed his route in 1994, and called it ''La Rambla'', and graded it as . Huber explained in a 2008 interview that he felt his 35-metre route was no more difficult than Wolfgang Güllich's 1991 ascent of '' Action Directe'' that was then graded . ''Action Directe'' was later re-graded to , and is considered a "benchmark" for a "hard" 9a. Huber later said his 35-metre route should be graded .

After Huber's 1994 ascent, Spanish climber linked Huber's 35-metre route to the final anchor of ''La Reina Mora'' – Huber's original intention – by bolting a short traverse to the right that started from the last hold of Huber's route, a 3-finger pocket just below the intermediate anchor. Andrada's extended route was still long, and became known for a period as ''La Rambla Extension'', or ''La Rambla Direct'', and even ''La Rambla Original'' (as Andrada wanted to keep as much as possible Huber's original 41-metre route), however, as Huber's anchor at 35-metres is now gone, Andrada's 41-metre route is known as ''La Rambla''.

Andrada himself was not able to free his new 41-metre bolted route. Instead, it was later freed on 8 March 2003 by Spanish climber Ramón Julián Puigblanque, who redpointed the 35-metre route five times, and only completed Andrada's 6-metre extension after forty failed attempts.

Puigblanque re-graded the entire route to , and believed that this grade applied not only to the 6-metre extension but also to the original 35-metre Huber route as well. If this was correct, then Huber's original 35-metre ''La Rambla'' was the first 9a+, seven years before Chris Sharma's 2001 ascent of '' Realization/Biographie''. In a 2008 interview, Huber said that the 6-metre extension added little difficulty to his original route, and that his original 8c+ route would be graded 9a by contemporary standards, but no more, as ultimately it was not harder than ''Action Directe'', the benchmark 9a route. A second grading debate developed over the use of a big flake (or jug) one metre further to the right of the extension's traverse for resting. Puigblanque said that he had not used this flake on his first ascent and that using the flake made the climb a half grade easier, to which Adam Ondra (who also did not use the flake on his 2008 ascent) agreed with, but caveated saying: "although it is nonsense to consider it he flakeas prohibited".

It took three years until ''La Rambla'' was repeated by and Chris Sharma, on successive days in 2006. ''La Rambla'' has since become one of the most repeated routes in the sport, and is now widely considered a consensus . In March 2013, German climber Alexander Megos came closest to flashing ''La Rambla'', falling on his first attempt near the top, but succeeding on his immediate second attempt. On 26 February 2017, American climber Margo Hayes became the first-ever female climber in history to climb a route on ''La Rambla''; Hayes also went on to make the first female free ascent of ''Realization/Biography'' a few months later in September 2017.

Route

''La Rambla'' is described as having a diverse range of " cracks, pockets, crimps, side pulls, and underclings", but is also "sustained", and "continually overhanging". Several climbers have described it as being two climbs, the first circa 30-metres being essentially 5.14 climbing, via a 5.13c crack, a traverse to the left, which adds up to 5.14a, and then 5.14b as it moves right until a rest. At this stage, the climber is approaching the location of Huber's original anchor (since removed), and the climbing becomes even more overhanging "with violent moves on small holds and crimps".

The crux is at 35-metres where, as Ramón Julián Puigblanqué describes, "You have to make the two-finger pocket. If you get the pocket with your right hand you can clip Huber’s intermediate belay and you’ve done he 35-metreLa Rambla. If you are going for La Rambla Direct he 41-metre version you have to take the pocket with your left hand – this is the key move. I made it to this point four or five times". Ondra graded this crux a boulder move.

Legacy

''La Rambla'' is variously described as legendary, historic, and famous in the climbing media, and even two decades on from the various first ascents, repeat ascents of the route are reported on and chronicled by the climbing media. The sustained difficulty and length of the climb made it an important technical and physical test piece for the leading sport climbers, and it has become one of the most repeated routes, alongside Realization/Biographie, at the climbing grade of . ''PlanetMountain'' said in 2017, "Seeped in history, La Rambla is a symbol for sport climbing, one of the world’s most sought-after climbs", and listed ''La Rambla'' on its list of important climbs in the evolution of free climbing. When French climber Sébastien Bouin made the 20th ascent in December 2017, he said, "This route is a piece of climbing history".

''La Rambla'' has also been reassessed as part of German climber Alexander Huber's sport climbing legacy, and it has become apparent to contemporary extreme sport climbers that Huber was climbing consistently at the grade of 9a/9a+ in the early to mid-1990s, as evidenced by ''La Rambla'' and his other test-pieces of ''Open Air'' in 1996 (proposed for re-grading by Adam Ondra to 9a+ in 2008, and therefore potentially the first 9a+ as it was climbed before ''Realization/Biographie''), and ''Weisse Rose'' in 1994 (also proposed for re-grading by Adam Ondra to at least a "hard 9a").

The ascent of ''La Rambla'' at Siurana, ''Realization/Biographie'' at Céüse, and ''Papichulo'' at Oliana, have been referred to as the "9a+ trilogy", being long, sustained, and consensus graded 9a+ sport climbing routes, that aspiring extreme sport climbers seek to test themselves on.

Ascents

''La Rambla'' (being the 41m version post-1994) has been ascended by:

*1st (35m version) Alexander Huber in 1994
*1st (41m version) Ramón Julián on 8 March 2003.
*2nd. in December 2006
*3rd. Chris Sharma in December 2006
*4th. in 2007
*5th. Patxi Usobiaga in 2007
*6th. Adam Ondra in February 2008
*7th. in 2011
*8th. Sachi Amma in 2012
*9th. Felix Neumärker in 2013
*10th. in 2013.
*11th. Alex Megos in March 2013
*12th. Daniel Jung in 2014
*13th. Jonathan Siegrist in 2015
*14th. in February 2017
*15th. Matty Hong in February 2017
*16th. Margo Hayes in February 2017; first-ever female 9a+
*17th. Stefano Ghisolfi in March 2017
*18th. Jacopo Larcher in March 2017
*19th. in 2017
*20th. Sébastien Bouin in December 2017
*21st. Tomás Ravanal in 2018
*22nd. Gerard Rull in 2018
*23rd. Jon Cardwell in 2018
*24th. Dave Graham in 2019
*25th. Piotr Schab in 2019
*26th. Gonzalo Larrocha in 2019
*27th. in 2019
*28th. Chaehyun Seo in November 2022
*29th. Michaela Kiersch in January 2023
*30th. Seb Berthe in January 2023
*31st. in February 2024.

First female free ascents (FFFA):
*1st. Margo Hayes in February 2017; first-ever female to climb a
*2nd. Chaehyun Seo in November 2022
*3rd. Michaela Kiersch in January 2023

Filmography

* Margo Hayes' first female and 16th ascent:

See also

*History of rock climbing
*List of first ascents (sport climbing)
*''Silence'', first climb in the world with a potential grade of
*''La Dura Dura'', second climb in the world with a confirmed grade of
*''Jumbo Love'', first climb in the world with a confirmed grade of
*'' Realization/Biographie'', first climb in the world with a confirmed grade of
*'' Action Directe'', first climb in the world with a confirmed grade of

References

External links

La Rambla
''Hard Climbs'' (2023)
VINTAGE VIDEO: Dani Andrada on La Rambla (5.15a)
''Rock & Ice'' (1996)
Ramón Julián on La Rambla original, 9a+
''UKClimbing.com'' (2003)

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Sport climbing routes
1990s in sport climbing
2003 in sport climbing
Climbing areas of Spain
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