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Kota Doria or Kota Doriya is the name of a light woven fabric made of tiny woven squares (''khat'') which is still handwoven on traditional pit looms in Kaithoon near Kota in
Since the weavers had come from Mysore, the fabric produced was called ''kota masuriya''. It was woven on narrow 8 inch looms to make the traditional ''paags'' (turbans) and later on broader looms used for gossamer light saris. Silk was added to the cotton in a 20:80 ratio approximately to give the sari strength. This has become the usual cotton silk Kota Doria blend. Nowadays hand woven silk Kota Doria saris have also become popular. At first the design known as a ''buti'' was small and regular but larger designs are now made according to fashion and taste. A standard sari is 6.5 metres long and includes the blouse piece. A very ornate sari can take one month to make and is an heirloom piece to be treasured. A genuine Kota Doria sari will contain the GI mark woven in one corner indicating that it has been hand woven using real silver and gold thread.
Most Kota Doria or Kota Doriya saris are made on power looms in Surat and
The handcrafted elegance
Rajasthani arts Indian clothing Saris Kota, Rajasthan Geographical indications in Rajasthan Rajasthani clothing {{India-culture-stub
Kota Doria or Kota Doriya is the name of a light woven fabric made of tiny woven squares (''khat'') which is still handwoven on traditional pit looms in Kaithoon near Kota in Rajasthan
Rajasthan (; Literal translation, lit. 'Land of Kings') is a States and union territories of India, state in northwestern India. It covers or 10.4 per cent of India's total geographical area. It is the List of states and union territories of ...
and in some of the surrounding villages. Kota Doriya Sarees are made of pure cotton and silk and have square like patterns known as khats on them. The chequered weave of a Kota sari is very popular for their lightweight and comfortable wear. They are very fine weaves and weigh very little.
History
It is said that jhala zalim singh of Kotah brought weavers fromMysore
Mysore ( ), officially Mysuru (), is a city in the southern Indian state of Karnataka. It is the headquarters of Mysore district and Mysore division. As the traditional seat of the Wadiyar dynasty, the city functioned as the capital of the ...
in Karnataka
Karnataka ( ) is a States and union territories of India, state in the southwestern region of India. It was Unification of Karnataka, formed as Mysore State on 1 November 1956, with the passage of the States Reorganisation Act, 1956, States Re ...
to Kotah, in the mid 17th century, as they wove a characteristic small squared lightweight cotton fabric that looks like graph paper and is suitable for turbans. Rao Kishore Singh died in a battle in Karnataka in 1696 while fighting for the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb.
Weave
Since the weavers had come from Mysore, the fabric produced was called ''kota masuriya''. It was woven on narrow 8 inch looms to make the traditional ''paags'' (turbans) and later on broader looms used for gossamer light saris. Silk was added to the cotton in a 20:80 ratio approximately to give the sari strength. This has become the usual cotton silk Kota Doria blend. Nowadays hand woven silk Kota Doria saris have also become popular. At first the design known as a ''buti'' was small and regular but larger designs are now made according to fashion and taste. A standard sari is 6.5 metres long and includes the blouse piece. A very ornate sari can take one month to make and is an heirloom piece to be treasured. A genuine Kota Doria sari will contain the GI mark woven in one corner indicating that it has been hand woven using real silver and gold thread.
Most Kota Doria or Kota Doriya saris are made on power looms in Surat and Varanasi
Varanasi (, also Benares, Banaras ) or Kashi, is a city on the Ganges river in northern India that has a central place in the traditions of pilgrimage, death, and mourning in the Hindu world.*
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* The city has a syncretic tradition of I ...
and may be hand block printed, embroidered or hand finished in a variety of ways. The fabric is also used as dress fabric and for stoles and dupattas.
See also
*Mysore silk
Mysore silk is variety of mulberry silk produced in the Indian district of Mysore, Karnataka.
Karnataka produces 9,000 metric tons of mulberry silk, accounting for nearly 45% of the country's total mulberry silk production. In Karnataka, sil ...
*Mulmul
Muslin () is a cotton fabric of plain weave. It is made in a wide range of weights from delicate sheers to coarse sheeting. It is commonly believed that it gets its name from the city of Mosul, Iraq.
Muslin was produced in different regions of ...
*Khasa (cloth)
Khasa (Cossa, Cossaes) was a high-quality variety of calico cloth that was manufactured and used for clothing in the Mughal Empire.
Name
Khasa or means special. Khasa was termed “kashak” in the Ain-i-Akbari, and was also known as 'jangal ...
* Tansukh cloth
References
External links
The handcrafted elegance
Rajasthani arts Indian clothing Saris Kota, Rajasthan Geographical indications in Rajasthan Rajasthani clothing {{India-culture-stub