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Himalchuli (also sometimes written as two words, Himal Chuli) is the second-highest 
Himalayan Index
lists five other ascents of this peak, and 10 additional unsuccessful attempts. The ascents were by various routes on the south, southwest, and southeast sides of the mountain.
The West Peak was first climbed in 1978 by two members of a Japanese expedition to the main peak of Himalchuli. They climbed from the south (the Dordi Khola) and approached the summit of the West Peak from the east.
The North Peak was first climbed in 1985 by a
DEM files for the Himalaya
(Corrected versions of SRTM data) Mountains of the Gandaki Province Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas
mountain
A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. Although definitions vary, a mountain may differ from a plateau in having a limited summit area, and is usually higher t ...
in the Mansiri Himal
Mansiri Himal is a small, high subrange of the Himalayas in north-central Nepal, about northwest of Kathmandu. The Marshyangdi River separates the Mansiri from the Annapurnas to the southwest, then an upper tributary the ''Dudh Khola'' separate ...
, part of the Nepal
Nepal, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is mainly situated in the Himalayas, but also includes parts of the Indo-Gangetic Plain. It borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China Ch ...
ese Himalayas
The Himalayas, or Himalaya ( ), is a mountain range in Asia, separating the plains of the Indian subcontinent from the Tibetan Plateau. The range has some of the Earth's highest peaks, including the highest, Mount Everest. More than list of h ...
, and the 18th-highest mountain in the world.
Features
Lying south-southeast ofManaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
and Ngadi Chuli
Ngadi Chuli (also known as Harka Gurung Chuli, Peak 29, Dakura, Dakum, or Dunapurna) is a mountain in the Mansiri Himal (or Manaslu Himal), also known as the Gurkha Massif, in Nepal. With an elevation of above sea level, it is the 20th-highest ...
, Himalchuli is the second-highest and southernmost of the three mountains that form the heart of the Mansiri Himal. It is a complex massif with a vast horizontal sprawl, connected to shorter satellite peaks such as Baudha () by numerous steep, winding ridges. A central plateau situated entirely above an elevation of 7000 metres is ringed by its three main peaks: East (), West () and North (). The main pyramid of the East summit is considered the eighteenth highest independent mountain on earth.
Himalchuli is also notable for its large vertical relief over local terrain. For example, it rises over the Marshyangdi River to the southwest in about horizontal distance.
Climbing history
Exploratory visits to the peak were made in 1950 and 1954, and a first attempt in 1955 failed early on. Further reconnaissance and attempts followed in 1958 and 1959. The first ascent was made on May 24, 1960, by Hisashi Tanabe and Masahiro Harada, of Japan. The route followed the "Sickle Ridge" from the southwest. They first climbed to the saddle between the West and Main peaks, where they placed the last of six camps. This ascent was somewhat unusual for a sub-8000m peak in using bottledoxygen
Oxygen is a chemical element; it has chemical symbol, symbol O and atomic number 8. It is a member of the chalcogen group (periodic table), group in the periodic table, a highly reactivity (chemistry), reactive nonmetal (chemistry), non ...
.
ThHimalayan Index
lists five other ascents of this peak, and 10 additional unsuccessful attempts. The ascents were by various routes on the south, southwest, and southeast sides of the mountain.
The West Peak was first climbed in 1978 by two members of a Japanese expedition to the main peak of Himalchuli. They climbed from the south (the Dordi Khola) and approached the summit of the West Peak from the east.
The North Peak was first climbed in 1985 by a Korea
Korea is a peninsular region in East Asia consisting of the Korean Peninsula, Jeju Island, and smaller islands. Since the end of World War II in 1945, it has been politically Division of Korea, divided at or near the 38th parallel north, 3 ...
n expedition, via the North Face.
References
Sources
* * {{cite web , url = http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/hi/ , title = Himalayan Index , publisher = The Alpine Club , access-date = 2014-01-11DEM files for the Himalaya
(Corrected versions of SRTM data) Mountains of the Gandaki Province Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas