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George Square () is a city square in
Edinburgh Edinburgh is the capital city of Scotland and one of its 32 Council areas of Scotland, council areas. The city is located in southeast Scotland and is bounded to the north by the Firth of Forth and to the south by the Pentland Hills. Edinburgh ...
, Scotland. It is in the south of the city centre, adjacent to the Meadows. It was laid out in 1766 outside the overcrowded
Old Town In a city or town, the old town is its historic or original core. Although the city is usually larger in its present form, many cities have redesignated this part of the city to commemorate its origins. In some cases, newer developments on t ...
, and was a popular residential area for Edinburgh's better-off citizens. In the 1960s, much of the square was redeveloped by the
University of Edinburgh The University of Edinburgh (, ; abbreviated as ''Edin.'' in Post-nominal letters, post-nominals) is a Public university, public research university based in Edinburgh, Scotland. Founded by the City of Edinburgh Council, town council under th ...
, although the
Cockburn Association The Cockburn Association, often subtitled Edinburgh Civic Trust, is an architectural, conservation, and urban planning monitoring organisation in the city of Edinburgh, Scotland, United Kingdom. The Cockburn Association, founded in 1875, is one o ...
and the Georgian Group of Edinburgh protested. Most but not all buildings on the square now belong to the university (among the exceptions being the Dominican priory of St Albert the Great). Principal buildings include the
Gordon Aikman Lecture Theatre The Gordon Aikman Lecture Theatre is a category B listed performing arts and lecture theatre located in the historic George Square in Edinburgh. Primarily operated as a lecture theatre for the University of Edinburgh, it is also used for general ...
,
Edinburgh University Library Edinburgh University Library is the main library of the University of Edinburgh and one of the most important libraries of Scotland. The University Library was moved in 1827 to William Playfair's Upper Library in the Old College building. The ...
,
40 George Square 40 George Square is a High-rise building, tower block in Edinburgh, Scotland forming part of the University of Edinburgh. Until September 2020 the tower was named David Hume Tower (often abbreviated as DHT). The building contains lecture theatres ...
and
Appleton Tower Appleton Tower is a tower block in Edinburgh, Scotland, owned by the University of Edinburgh. History Construction When the University developed the George Square, Edinburgh, George Square area in the 1960s, a large swathe of Georgian Ed ...
.


Georgian square

The square was laid out in 1766 by the builder James Brown, and comprised modest, typically Georgian, terraced houses. Away from the overcrowded
Old Town In a city or town, the old town is its historic or original core. Although the city is usually larger in its present form, many cities have redesignated this part of the city to commemorate its origins. In some cases, newer developments on t ...
, George Square was the location of the homes of lawyers and nobles. Residents included
Sir Walter Scott Sir Walter Scott, 1st Baronet (15 August 1771 – 21 September 1832), was a Scottish novelist, poet and historian. Many of his works remain classics of European literature, European and Scottish literature, notably the novels ''Ivanhoe'' (18 ...
, the judge Lord Braxfield, and the politician
Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville, PC, FRSE (28 April 1742 – 28 May 1811), styled as Lord Melville from 1802, was a British politician who served as Home Secretary from 1791 to 1794 and First Lord of the Admirality from 1804 to 1805. He ...
. In June 1792, the square was the starting point of the Dundas Riots, aimed at the house of the Lord advocate,
Robert Dundas of Arniston Robert Dundas of Arniston (6 June 1758 – 17 June 1819) was a Scottish judge. Dundas served as Solicitor General for Scotland between 1784 and 1789 and as Lord Advocate from 1789 to 1801. He sat as Member of Parliament for Edinburghshire fr ...
, who lived on the square. From 1876 to 1880,
Arthur Conan Doyle Sir Arthur Ignatius Conan Doyle (22 May 1859 – 7 July 1930) was a British writer and physician. He created the character Sherlock Holmes in 1887 for ''A Study in Scarlet'', the first of four novels and fifty-six short stories about Hol ...
, later author of the
Sherlock Holmes Sherlock Holmes () is a Detective fiction, fictional detective created by British author Arthur Conan Doyle. Referring to himself as a "Private investigator, consulting detective" in his stories, Holmes is known for his proficiency with obser ...
novels, lived at No. 23 while studying medicine at the
University of Edinburgh Medical School The University of Edinburgh Medical School (also known as Edinburgh Medical School) is the medical school of the University of Edinburgh in Scotland and the United Kingdom and part of the University of Edinburgh College of Medicine and Veterinar ...
. Redevelopment of the square began in the late 19th century when numbers 4 to 7 were redeveloped as George Watson's Ladies College. In the 1920s the college expanded to absorb numbers 8 to 10. These minor interventions were mild in comparison with the changes of the 1960s: the whole south side was demolished, together with half the east side, to provide new facilities for the university. Combined with the redevelopments on Potterow to the north-east and completion of
McEwan Hall McEwan Hall () is the graduation hall of the University of Edinburgh, in Edinburgh, Scotland. Designed by architect Sir Robert Rowand Anderson, it was funded by philanthropist William McEwan at a total cost of £115,000 (approx. £ today). Co ...
, this made George Square the new hub of the whole university.


Gardens

The central gardens are privately owned and are not a public park as such. However, they are usually available to public use, though only the southern access is usually open. The central gardens contain a memorial to
Winifred Rushforth Margaret Winifred Rushforth (née Bartholomew; 21 August 1885 – 29 August 1983) was a Scottish medical practitioner and Christian missionary in India who, influenced by Hugh Crichton-Miller and his friend, Carl Jung, became the founder of a ...
entitled "The Dreamer". The garden also contains several "Baillie lamps", which were formerly placed in front of the Edinburgh Baillies and latterly (until the 1970s) placed in front of councillors' houses. The pavements adjoining the central garden are "horonised": a system of using vertical slivers of granite remaining from the squaring of the granite setts on the main road surface, thereby having no wasted material.


Famous residents

*
Dionysius Wielobycki Dionysius Wielobycki (1813 – 16 November 1882) was a 19th century Polish doctor living in Scotland. A controversial homeopath during a period of scientific focus, his adventurous life ranged from being a soldier in the November Uprising and being ...
(at number 3) *Rev
John Jamieson John Jamieson (3 March 1759 – 12 July 1838) was a Scottish minister of religion, lexicographer, philologist and antiquary. His most important work is the ''Etymological Dictionary of the Scottish Language''. Life He was born in Glasgow in Ma ...
(4) *
Allan Maconochie, Lord Meadowbank The Hon Allan Maconochie, Lord Meadowbank FRSE FSA (Scot) (1748–1816) was a Scottish advocate, academic jurist, judge and agriculturalist. Life The only son of Alexander Maconochie of Meadowbank, Kirknewton, Midlothian, and his wife Isabell ...
(5) *
Henry Dundas Henry Dundas, 1st Viscount Melville, Privy Council (United Kingdom), PC, FRSE (28 April 1742 – 28 May 1811), styled as Lord Melville from 1802, was a British politician who served as Home Secretary from 1791 to 1794 and First Lord of the Ad ...
Lord Melville and Elizabeth Rannie (5) * Richard Huie (8) * John Campbell, Lord Stonefield (11) * Rev John Paul and his son
James Balfour Paul Sir James Balfour Paul (16 November 1846 – 15 September 1931) was the Lord Lyon King of Arms, the officer responsible for heraldry in Scotland, from 1890 until the end of 1926. Life James Balfour Paul was educated at Royal High School, Edinbur ...
(13) * Waller Hugh Paton (14) *
John Struthers (anatomist) Sir John Struthers Doctor of Medicine, MD FRCSE FRSE ( – ) was the first Regius Professor of Anatomy (Aberdeen), Regius Professor of Anatomy at the University of Aberdeen. He was a dynamic teacher and administrator, transforming the status of ...
(15) *Rev William King Tweedie (15) plus a short time at (50) *Very Rev
Patrick Clason Patrick Clason (13 October 1789 – 30 July 1867) was a Scottish minister who served as Moderator of the General Assembly to the Free Church of Scotland in 1848/49. Life He was born on 13 October 1789 in the manse at Dalziel near the Rive ...
(22) * Simon Somerville Laurie (22) *
Jane Welsh Carlyle Jane Baillie Carlyle (' Welsh; 14 July 1801 – 21 April 1866) was a Scottish writer and the wife of Thomas Carlyle. She did not publish any work in her lifetime, but she was widely seen as an extraordinary letter writer. Virginia Woolf ca ...
(23) *
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle Sir Arthur Ignatius Conan Doyle (22 May 1859 – 7 July 1930) was a British writer and physician. He created the character Sherlock Holmes in 1887 for ''A Study in Scarlet'', the first of four novels and fifty-six short stories about Hol ...
(23) *
Sir Walter Scott Sir Walter Scott, 1st Baronet (15 August 1771 – 21 September 1832), was a Scottish novelist, poet and historian. Many of his works remain classics of European literature, European and Scottish literature, notably the novels ''Ivanhoe'' (18 ...
(25) * Sir Adam Ferguson (27) *
Robert Kaye Greville Dr. Robert Kaye Greville FRSE FLS LLD (13 December 1794 – 4 June 1866) was an England, English mycologist, bryology, bryologist, and botanist. He was an accomplished artist and illustrator of natural history. In addition to art and scien ...
(31/33) *
Joseph Noel Paton Sir Joseph Noel Paton (13 December 1821 – 26 December 1901) was a Scottish artist, illustrator and sculptor. He was also a poet and had an interest in, and knowledge of, Scottish folklore and Celtic legends. Early life Paton was born in W ...
(33) * Charles Lawson (nurseryman) (35) * Dawson Turner (radiologist) (37) * Dr Andrew Fyfe (38) * William Archer Porter Tait (38) *
Percy Portsmouth Percival ("Percy") Herbert Portsmouth RSA FRSBS (1874–1953) was a 20th-century British sculptor. His most notable public work is Elgin War Memorial, and the similar War Memorial in Thurso. Life He was born in Reading, England, in 1874, th ...
(39) * Alexander Adam (39) * Very Rev John Inglis (43) * Hugh Cameron RSA RSW (45) *
Edmund Taylor Whittaker Sir Edmund Taylor Whittaker (24 October 1873 – 24 March 1956) was a British mathematician, physicist, and historian of science. Whittaker was a leading mathematical scholar of the early 20th century who contributed widely to applied mathemat ...
(48) * George Turnbull of Abbey St Bathans and his son
John John is a common English name and surname: * John (given name) * John (surname) John may also refer to: New Testament Works * Gospel of John, a title often shortened to John * First Epistle of John, often shortened to 1 John * Second E ...
(49) *
Gerard Baldwin Brown Gerard Baldwin Brown, FBA (31 October 1849 – 12 July 1932) was a British art historian. Life Brown was born in London, the son of church minister James Baldwin Brown and his wife, Elizabeth, a sister of the sculptor Henry Leifchild. He atten ...
(50) *
James Dalgleish Hamilton Jamieson James Dalgleish Hamilton Jamieson FRSE FDSE (10 September 1875 – 21 September 1966) was a Scottish dentist and author. Life He was born on 10 September 1875 at 52 Rankeillor Street, a ground floor and basement flat in Edinburgh’s South Sid ...
(52) *
Robert Dundas of Arniston Robert Dundas of Arniston (6 June 1758 – 17 June 1819) was a Scottish judge. Dundas served as Solicitor General for Scotland between 1784 and 1789 and as Lord Advocate from 1789 to 1801. He sat as Member of Parliament for Edinburghshire fr ...
(57) *
Charles Maclaren Charles Maclaren, (7 October 1782 – 10 September 1866), was a Scottish journalist and geologist. He co-founded ''The Scotsman'' newspaper, was its editor for 27 years, edited the 6th Edition of the ''Encyclopædia Britannica'', and was the f ...
(58) * Thomas M'Crie the Younger (58) earlier at (45) 33 George Square was used as the base for HM Geological Survey of Scotland with notable employees including
John Horne John Horne PRSE FRS FRSE FEGS LLD (1 January 1848 – 30 May 1928) was a Scottish geologist. He served as president of the Royal Society of Edinburgh from 1915 to 1919. Life Horne was born on 1 January 1848, in Campsie, Stirlingshire, the ...
. Other residents (whose exact addresses are unclear) include Henry Erskine,
Robert McQueen, Lord Braxfield Robert McQueen, Lord Braxfield (4 May 1722 – 30 May 1799) was a Scottish advocate and judge. Life McQueen was born at Braxfield House near Lanark on 4 May 1722, son of John McQueen. He studied law at Edinburgh University and was admitted to ...
(north side), William Craig, Lord Craig (west side), John Campbell, Lord Stonefield (north side) and Admiral Duncan of Camperdown.


Redevelopment

The University of Edinburgh began drawing up plans to redevelop the square in the 1950s. Architects
Basil Spence Sir Basil Urwin Spence, (13 August 1907 – 19 November 1976) was a Scottish architect, most notably associated with Coventry Cathedral in England and the Beehive in New Zealand, but also responsible for numerous other buildings in the Moderni ...
and
Robert Matthew Sir Robert Hogg Matthew (12 December 1906 – 2 June 1975) was a Scottish architect and a leading proponent of modernism. Early life and studies Robert Matthew was the son of John Fraser Matthew (1875–1955) (also an architect, and the pa ...
were closely involved in the plans. Opposition to demolition of the Georgian Square was led by the
Cockburn Association The Cockburn Association, often subtitled Edinburgh Civic Trust, is an architectural, conservation, and urban planning monitoring organisation in the city of Edinburgh, Scotland, United Kingdom. The Cockburn Association, founded in 1875, is one o ...
, and the Georgian Group of Edinburgh, which was established by
Colin McWilliam Colin McWilliam (1928–1989) was a British architecture academic and author. Career Born in London, he graduated from the University of Cambridge and became Director of the Scottish National Buildings Record, then the Assistant Secretary of ...
and others to resist the proposals. In the end, the western side of the square was retained. This was helped by the refusal of the
Dominican Order The Order of Preachers (, abbreviated OP), commonly known as the Dominican Order, is a Catholic Church, Catholic mendicant order of pontifical right that was founded in France by a Castilians, Castilian priest named Saint Dominic, Dominic de Gu ...
who owned 23 and 24 George Square to sell their premises to the university, despite the offer to build a replacement church and priory. Fr Anthony Ross O.P. was instrumental in this refusal. On the northern side, the 19th century George Watson's Ladies College was retained alongside the modern Hugh Robson Building. Georgian terraces were retained along half of the east side, while the southern side was entirely redeveloped. Today, George Square has the highest concentration of university buildings in its Central campus area, which includes the
Brutalist Brutalist architecture is an architectural style that emerged during the 1950s in the United Kingdom, among the reconstruction projects of the post-war era. Brutalist buildings are characterised by minimalist constructions that showcase the b ...
Gordon Aikman Lecture Theatre, the university's main library, and the
Appleton Tower Appleton Tower is a tower block in Edinburgh, Scotland, owned by the University of Edinburgh. History Construction When the University developed the George Square, Edinburgh, George Square area in the 1960s, a large swathe of Georgian Ed ...
and
40 George Square 40 George Square is a High-rise building, tower block in Edinburgh, Scotland forming part of the University of Edinburgh. Until September 2020 the tower was named David Hume Tower (often abbreviated as DHT). The building contains lecture theatres ...
teaching and administrative buildings.


Edinburgh Fringe

During August each year, the square becomes an important hub for events during the
Edinburgh Festival Fringe The Edinburgh Festival Fringe (also referred to as the Edinburgh Fringe, the Fringe or the Edinburgh Fringe Festival) is the world's largest performance arts festival, which in 2024 spanned 25 days, sold more than 2.6 million tickets and featur ...
. Many of the university buildings, notably Gordon Aikman Lecture Theatre and various lecture halls and classrooms are converted for use as venues by operator Assembly. The gardens are filled with bars, food stalls and pop-up venues, including, in recent years while nearby
Bristo Square Bristo Square, Edinburgh, Scotland, is a public space on the estate of the University of Edinburgh. It lies in the south of the city, between George IV Bridge and George Square, Edinburgh, George Square. The most prominent landmark on the sq ...
is being renovated, the
Underbelly Underbelly is the side of something that is not normally seen. Figuratively, it means a vulnerable or weak part, similar to the term Achilles' heel, or alternatively, a hidden, illicit side of society. This term could refer to: Business * U ...
purple cow venue.


References


Bibliography

* * * Greenwood Tree, "George and Charlotte, The Old Squares", in Thomson, David Cleghorn (ed.), ''Saltire Review'', Vol. 6, No. 22,
The Saltire Society The Saltire Society is a membership organisation which aims to promote the understanding of the culture and heritage of Scotland, founded in 1936. The society organises lectures and publishes pamphlets, and presents a series of awards in the fiel ...
, Edinburgh, pp. 9 - 14 * *


External links

* {{Edinburgh Festival Fringe Squares in Edinburgh Georgian architecture in Scotland University of Edinburgh 1766 establishments in Scotland Edinburgh Festival Fringe