Food Journalism

Food journalism is a field of journalism that focuses on news and current events related to food, its production, and the cultures of producing and consuming that food. Typically, food journalism includes a scope broader than the work of food critics, who analyze restaurants and their products, and is similar to a sub-genre of "food writing", which documents the experience and history of food.

Food journalism often explores the impact of current events on food, such as how the Impact of the COVID-19 pandemic on the food industry, or larger issues, such as impacts of climate change on food production. Increasingly, these themes overlap with public health journalism, political journalism, and economic journalism. This expands on themes traditional to food criticism, which has tended to focus on fine dining and other kinds of food writing, like cookbook writing. These themes are similar to the themes covered in agricultural journalism, which focuses on the agriculture industry for agricultural audiences.

The contemporary field of food journalism grew in the mid-20th century, especially as issues like food rationing during and after World War II. In the United States, the Association of Food Journalists provides professional standards and a code of ethics.

History of Food Journalism

Food journalism dates back to the 1880s when Joseph Pulitzer introduced women's pages into his newspaper, the ''New York World''. Other publications were quick to take on these additions with the women's section covering news on fashion, family, furnishings—and food. These were considered the four Fs of ‘soft news’ or ‘women’s news’. The pages were both a chance for advertisers to reach audiences and for women to be employed in journalism. The newspaper food sections were dense with product advertisements, news on recipes, and nutrition studies. In 1948, it was reported that 56% of women got their food news from newspapers and magazines, citing the relevancy of this emerging field. By 1950, the number of newspaper food editors had more than doubled to a total of 561. As a result, the revenue and advertisement potential influenced prominent editors to produce food pages.

Until the 1940s and 1950s, women in journalism were contained from writing on sports, editorials, or what was considered hard news. During World War II, women took on a variety of roles, recognized both on the home front and in the military effort. As a result, the women's pages after World War II diversified and changed the significance of women's news. In the post-World War II era, food coverage often addressed social history and reflected the evolving roles of women in society.

In the 1940s, Jane Nickerson began her job as the first ''New York Times'' food editor. Nickerson began covering war-rationing news, food product developments, and recipes. After World War II, her work evolved to document the rapidly developing New York restaurant industry and profiled future food celebrities. Nickerson pioneered the industry of food journalism in the women's pages and was at the forefront of influence in restaurant reviews, interviews, and new products. These food journalists reached consumers and cooks, documented nutritional issues and food safety, and covered the impact of governmental food regulation and the consumerism movement. Jane Nickerson activated the potential for food discourse to engage with important social, political, and cultural issues. Her contributions have grown the scholarship of newspaper food journalism into what it is today.

By the 1950s, most food editors were educated and had a degree in either journalism, home economics, or both. Like other mediums of journalism, food editors followed traditional news values, researching the precision of their articles. ''Milwaukee Journal'' food editor Peggy Daum gave the same care to the food section as the front page, stating, “If someone’s age is wrong, that’s one thing. But if the amount of flour in a recipe is wrong, then the whole recipe can be ruined.” The food section has become a serious practice with publishers like the ''Chicago Tribune'' even reprinting entire recipes if there were to be a mistake. Food journalism has evolved to be legitimate journalism, rooted in the accomplishments of women at the forefront.

Code of Ethics

The Association of Food Journalists (AFJ), founded in the 1970s, created the American Food Journalist Code of Ethics, and was made up of five core principles that food journalists should strive to abide by and are expected to adhere to. The AFJ was dissolved in 2024 due to lack of funds from failure to adapt their revenue model to keep up with the rise of digital journalism and the decreased hegemony of print media. However, the Code of Ethics and the AFJ's legacy continue to be respected by food journalists following the dissolution. The five core principles outlined by the AFJ have not been rewritten or replaced and continue to constitute the main guidelines food journalists follow. The five principles are:
1) "We take pride in our work, and respect the work of others"
2) "We do not abuse our positions"
3) "We avoid conflicts of interest"
4) "We recognize and respect diversity"
5) "We are committed to total transparency in our work"

Prominent Figures

Anthony Bourdain

Anthony Bourdain (1956-2018) was a celebrity chef and author, most known for his work in travelling to various countries as a food journalist and critic.

He became popularized as a food journalist through his essay submission to the ''New York Times'' titled ''Don't Eat Before Reading This'' in 1999 while working as a chef in New York City. The essay reported the inside tricks of New York City restaurant culture from Bourdain's perspective, ranging from when to order what type of dish to what not to ask for when ordering. The public adored Bourdain's unfiltered character and style of writing, launching him into popularity in the food journalism industry. The success of the essay then influenced the writing of his book New York Times Best Selling Non-Fiction Novel, ''Kitchen Confidential'', published in 2000, which brings readers into a behind-the-scenes look at luxurious restaurants and the reality of the kitchen's inner workings. These written works are representations of some of Bourdain's written food journalism.

Following these achievements, Bourdain had further successful television programs representing the field of food journalism, specifically in his show '' Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown'', which aired from 2013-2018. The television show on CNN portrayed Bourdain travelling to countries all around the world, big and small, and immersing himself into each country's culture by exploring their cuisine and cultural traditions. While different than written food journalism, ''Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown'' is a media representation of food journalism and discovery.

Julia Child

Julia Child (1912-2004) was a famous chef, author, and television figure. She is most known for making French cuisine less daunting and more accessible in American culture.

In a time when food journalism was not nearly as accessible as in modern times, her career in the industry began when she graduated from Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris. It was after this that she, along with some colleagues, began to teach Parisian women how to cook traditional American dishes in the comfort of her home kitchen. She informally named this cooking school the ''École Des Trois Gourmandes''. Bringing American traditional cuisine to Paris is one of the initiators of her start in the food journalism industry through spreading her knowledge by word of mouth.

Following this, she and two colleagues wrote the New York Times Bestseller cookbook, ''Mastering the Art of French Cooking'' in 1961, with the specific intention of making French cooking and culture less intimidating to the American audience. Child's cookbook is another one of her contributions to the food journalism industry, through inspiring Americans to venture out of their comfort zone and try varying cultural recipes.

Breaking the boundaries of a predominantly male-based industry, Child was the first woman to have her own cooking show broadcast on American television, while also being one of the first cooking programs on American television in totality. Her program ''The French Chef'' was heavily based on the success of her cookbook, where she further taught Americans traditional French dishes; a notable contribution to food journalism in the media.

Guy Fieri

Guy Fieri (1968-) is a celebrity chef, author, and restaurant owner, best known for his work as a host on ''The Food Network''.

While not considered a traditional food journalist, Fieri's area of food journalism focuses on the media representation side with his television program on ''The Food Network'',''Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives''. First airing in 2007 with new episodes currently being released, Fieri travels to restaurants across North America with traditional greasy, comfort food. His show portrays each restaurant's behind-the-scenes workings, ranging from the chefs cooking up the dishes to interactions with the customers.

While Fieri's main work with food journalism is with ''Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives'', he also has successful cookbooks in the realm of food journalism. His cookbook ''Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives: An All-American Road Trip...with Recipes!'' from 2008, once again plays on the theme of road-tripping to various restaurants and documenting his favourite recipes.

Kenji López-Alt

James Kenji Lopez-Alt (more commonly known as Kenji Lopez-Alt) (1978-) is a famous James Beard Foundation Award-winning food writer and chef.

Kenji began his career as a food writer, or journalist, through his work as a columnist for SeriousEats.com. His column, "The Food Lab" reported how specific science practices of cooking can improve recipes in the comfort of one's own home. This column was then nominated for a James Beard Foundation Award.

Following the success and popularity of his column, Kenji wrote a cookbook, '' The Food Lab: Better Home Cooking Through Science'' in 2015, inspired by the theme of his column. This cookbook then won the James Beard Foundation Award for The Best General Cookbook.

Kenji still participates in writing as a food journalist at SeriousEats through his role as Chief Culinary Consultant, however focuses more on writing various cookbooks and maintaining a presence on social media. His recent cookbook released in 2022, ''The Wok: Recipes and Techniques'', won him a second James Beard Foundation Award in 2023 in the Single Subject category. He often is present on social media through his various food reviews on Instagram.

Major Awards

The James Beard Foundation Awards

The James Beard Foundation Award, organized by the James Beard Foundation, first began in 1991 with the mission to "recognize culinary professionals for excellence and achievement in their fields". In 1992, the journalism and media award was added, which includes awards for excellence in books, broadcast media, and journalism related to food and gastronomy. The James Beard Foundation Award is often referred to as the 'Oscars' of the culinary industry.

Within the food journalism category are several sub-awards including Beverage, Columns and Newsletters, Emerging Voice, Dining and Travel, Feature Reporting, Food Coverage in a General Interest Publication, U.S. Foodways, Health and Wellness, Homecooking, Investigative Reporting, Narrative Photography, Personal Essay, Personal Essay with Recipes, and Profile. Furthermore, there are several categories named after significant figures within the food journalism industry, including the Jonathan Gold Local Voice Award, named after the Los Angeles Food Critic Jonathan Gold, which honours "new writers who are telling stories of their cities and regions". As well as the Craig Claiborne Distinguished Criticism Award, names after Craig Claiborne, an American food critic for the New York Times which recognizes "discerning criticism or commentary that contributes to the larger discourse on food, drink, and related topics". Finally, the MFK Fisher Distinguished Writing Award, named after American food journalist M. F. K. Fisher who wrote ''The Art of Eating'', which awards "a single article of exceptional literary merit on the subject of food and/or drink published in any medium".

Food Journalism in Social Media

In recent years, food journalism has extended its scope from blogs, books, and TV networks to social media. Its move to social media has allowed wider accessibility to creating and consuming food journalism. From paid and unpaid reviews, recipes, "what I eat in a day" videos, to a quick food mention in "Day in the Life" videos, food journalism is seen all over media platforms. By 2014, people began utilizing platforms, like Instagram, as a replacement for the traditional food blog style. With this change, users gained more exposure to food journalism by the algorithms feeding them the content instead of having to search it up themselves. Traditional food blogs made consumers 62% more likely to visit a positively reviewed restaurant and 78% more likely to try a recipe. With the incredible consumption of formal and informal food journalism on social media, this statistic likely skyrocketed.

Some influencers dedicate their entire platform to recipes, like Kenny Song, who has accumulated over 5 million followers across TikTok and Instagram, sharing delicious Asian food recipes. Others incorporate food into their content. For example, model and influencer Nara Smith shares completely homemade recipes and days in her life while actively showing off her incredible fashion sense. Much of her food content has become satirical and over-exaggerated, due to internet memes surrounding her over-the-top homemade recipes which range from creating her own healthy Goldfish to even toothpaste.

Though influencers have brought in millions of new audience members to food journalism, not all of it is positive. Social media is already shown to worsen self-esteem through comparison of oneself to unrealistic and edited standards portrayed in the media. Many influencers will use their platform and "What I Eat in a Day" videos to promote diet habits, many of which are unhealthy. One influencer, Liv Schmidt, was put under fire for sharing daily food habits that clearly discourage a healthy caloric intake and promote the greatness of being thin to her highly impressionable, young audience. Though she has since been banned from TikTok, she is far from the only influencer that shares her eating disorder-like mentality.

More criticism of food journalism on social media is attributed to the argument that it killed traditional styles of food blogging. Particularly, people in the traditional food media, such as in magazines and newspapers, have lost their audience traction and jobs since people choose to watch a quick food video on social media than an article. This is not a concept unique to food journalism, many traditional journalists have taken a hit or lost their jobs due to social media's power not only to influence, but also as a news outlet.

References

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Food-related literary genres
Types of journalism