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''Eureka'' is a side-wheel paddle steamboat, built in 1890, which is now preserved at the
San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park The San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park is located in San Francisco, California, United States. The park includes a fleet of historic vessels, a visitor center, a maritime museum, and a library/research facility. Formerly referred to ...
in
San Francisco San Francisco, officially the City and County of San Francisco, is a commercial, Financial District, San Francisco, financial, and Culture of San Francisco, cultural center of Northern California. With a population of 827,526 residents as of ...
,
California California () is a U.S. state, state in the Western United States that lies on the West Coast of the United States, Pacific Coast. It borders Oregon to the north, Nevada and Arizona to the east, and shares Mexico–United States border, an ...
. Originally named ''Ukiah'' to commemorate the railway's recent extension into the City of Ukiah, the boat was built by the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad Company at their Tiburon yard. ''Eureka'' has been designated a
National Historic Landmark A National Historic Landmark (NHL) is a National Register of Historic Places property types, building, district, object, site, or structure that is officially recognized by the Federal government of the United States, United States government f ...
and was listed in the
National Register of Historic Places The National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) is the Federal government of the United States, United States federal government's official United States National Register of Historic Places listings, list of sites, buildings, structures, Hist ...
on April 24, 1973. She is the largest existing
wood Wood is a structural tissue/material found as xylem in the stems and roots of trees and other woody plants. It is an organic materiala natural composite of cellulosic fibers that are strong in tension and embedded in a matrix of lignin t ...
en
ship A ship is a large watercraft, vessel that travels the world's oceans and other Waterway, navigable waterways, carrying cargo or passengers, or in support of specialized missions, such as defense, research and fishing. Ships are generally disti ...
in the world.


Construction and design

''Ukiah'', a wooden-
hulled Husk (or hull) in botany is the outer shell or coating of a seed. In the United States, the term husk often refers to the leafy outer covering of an ear of maize (corn) as it grows on the plant. Literally, a husk or hull includes the protective ...
, double-ended ferryboat, was built in 1890 by the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad Company at their Tiburon shipyard. She had a length at the
waterline The waterline is the line where the hull of a ship meets the surface of the water. A waterline can also refer to any line on a ship's hull that is parallel to the water's surface when the ship is afloat in a level trimmed position. Hence, wate ...
of ( overall), beam of — over guards—and hold depth of . Her original gross tonnage was 2,564 and net tonnage, 2,018 tons. The ship had a crew of sixteen, whose quarters were in the
hold Hold may refer to: Physical spaces * Hold (compartment), interior cargo space * Baggage hold, cargo space on an airplane * Stronghold, a castle or other fortified place Arts, entertainment, and media * Hold (musical term), a pause, also called ...
. According to the National Register of Historic Places, ''Ukiah'' was originally built with a
main deck The main deck of a ship is the uppermost complete deck extending from bow to stern. A steel ship's hull may be considered a structural beam with the main deck forming the upper flange of a box girder and the keel forming the lower strength mem ...
for
railroad car A railroad car, railcar (American English, American and Canadian English), railway wagon, railway carriage, railway truck, railwagon, railcarriage or railtruck (British English and International Union of Railways, UIC), also called a tra ...
s and a second deck for passengers above. Numerous contemporaneous newspaper reports, however, state that both the passenger accommodations and railroad cars were located on the main deck. A broad stairway led from this deck to the
promenade deck The promenade deck is a deck found on several types of passenger ships and riverboats. It usually extends from bow to stern, on both sides, and includes areas open to the outside, resulting in a continuous outside walkway suitable for ''prome ...
above, where the fore and aft
pilot house A bridge (also known as a command deck), or wheelhouse (also known as a pilothouse), is a room or platform of a ship, submarine, airship, or spaceship from which the ship can be commanded. When a ship is under way, the bridge is manned by an off ...
s, along with staterooms for the officers, were located. Rising from the promenade deck were also several smaller decks for sightseers, accessible only by ladder. Two standard-gauge
railway track Railway track ( and UIC terminology) or railroad track (), also known as permanent way () or "P way" ( and Indian English), is the structure on a railway or railroad consisting of the rails, fasteners, sleepers ( railroad ties in American ...
s, on which the railroad cars were transported, were installed the length of the main deck through the center of the ship. Passenger accommodations were located on either side, fore and aft of the paddleboxes, with one side of the ship reserved for female passengers and the other for males. The female side included a moveable partition around the paddlebox that allowed passengers to move between cabins in privacy; this partition could be folded up to make room for railroad cars when required. The passenger decorations on each side differed, with the men's featuring grained panelling, and the women's, "parti colors, with gilt moldings and beadings". Floors on the ladies' side featured
velvet Velvet is a type of woven fabric with a dense, even pile (textile), pile that gives it a distinctive soft feel. Historically, velvet was typically made from silk. Modern velvet can be made from silk, linen, cotton, wool, synthetic fibers, silk ...
carpets, while
oilcloth Oilcloth, also known as enameled cloth or American cloth, is close-woven cotton duck or linen cloth with a coating of boiled linseed oil to make it waterproof. Manufacture Boiled linseed oil was prepared by a long boiling of linseed oil with me ...
s sufficed for the men. At each end of the passenger quarters were vestibules, fitted with doors to prevent drafts. Seats throughout were built of semi-circular strips of
cedar Cedar may refer to: Trees and plants *''Cedrus'', common English name cedar, an Old-World genus of coniferous trees in the plant family Pinaceae * Cedar (plant), a list of trees and plants known as cedar Places United States * Cedar, Arizona ...
and
black walnut ''Juglans nigra'', the eastern American black walnut, is a species of deciduous tree in the walnut family, Juglandaceae, native to central and eastern North America, growing mostly in riparian zones. Black walnut is susceptible to thousand can ...
, separated by black walnut arms. The main deck also featured a
bar Bar or BAR may refer to: Food and drink * Bar (establishment), selling alcoholic beverages * Candy bar ** Chocolate bar * Protein bar Science and technology * Bar (river morphology), a deposit of sediment * Bar (tropical cyclone), a laye ...
—located near the engine—toilets and a restaurant.
Joiner Joinery is a part of woodworking that involves joining pieces of wood, engineered lumber, or synthetic substitutes (such as laminate), to produce more complex items. Some woodworking joints employ mechanical fasteners, bindings, or adhesives, ...
y work throughout the vessel was by Robert Bragg. ''Ukiah'' was powered by a single-cylinder vertical beam steam engine with a bore of and
stroke Stroke is a medical condition in which poor cerebral circulation, blood flow to a part of the brain causes cell death. There are two main types of stroke: brain ischemia, ischemic, due to lack of blood flow, and intracranial hemorrhage, hemor ...
of , built by the Fulton Iron Works of San Francisco. The NRHP states that the ship was originally fitted with four direct flue return tube boilers; again, however, contemporaneous newspaper reports differ, stating that steam was originally supplied by two steel
boiler A boiler is a closed vessel in which fluid (generally water) is heated. The fluid does not necessarily boil. The heated or vaporized fluid exits the boiler for use in various processes or heating applications, including water heating, centra ...
s; these had a length of and shell of , and operated at a pressure of . ''Ukiah''s paddlewheels were in diameter, and each fitted with 24 buckets having a width of . The ship was launched in
San Francisco Bay San Francisco Bay (Chochenyo language, Chochenyo: 'ommu) is a large tidal estuary in the United States, U.S. state of California, and gives its name to the San Francisco Bay Area. It is dominated by the cities of San Francisco, California, San ...
on Saturday, May 17, 1890, at 10:40 pm, witnessed by a crowd of about 800 people, many of whom had arrived by a special train from San Rafael.


Service history


Early service

The ship originally carried people between San Francisco and Tiburon during the day and hauled railroad freight cars at night. On April 16, 1907, she sank at the foot of East Street,
San Francisco San Francisco, officially the City and County of San Francisco, is a commercial, Financial District, San Francisco, financial, and Culture of San Francisco, cultural center of Northern California. With a population of 827,526 residents as of ...
due to errors in handling the off loading of railroad cars. She was later raised. In 1907, ''Ukiah'' was re-routed to the
Sausalito Sausalito (Spanish for "small willow grove") is a city in Marin County, California, United States, located southeast of Marin City, south-southeast of San Rafael, and about north of San Francisco from the Golden Gate Bridge. Sausalito's p ...
San Francisco Ferry Building The San Francisco Ferry Building is a terminal station, terminal for ferry, ferries that travel across the San Francisco Bay, a food hall and an office building. It is located on Embarcadero (San Francisco), The Embarcadero in San Francisco, Ca ...
route by its new owners,
Northwestern Pacific Railroad The Northwestern Pacific Railroad is a mainline railroad from the former ferry connections in Sausalito, California north to Eureka, with a connection to the national railroad system at Schellville. The railroad has gone through a complex h ...
. As automobiles became more common, motorists wanted to "drive across the bay". Since there were no bridges on
San Francisco Bay San Francisco Bay (Chochenyo language, Chochenyo: 'ommu) is a large tidal estuary in the United States, U.S. state of California, and gives its name to the San Francisco Bay Area. It is dominated by the cities of San Francisco, California, San ...
at the time, ''Ukiah'' was able to meet this demand via a refitted lower deck designed to handle vehicles. The deck above (also enclosed) was expanded for passengers.


World War I and subsequent rebuild

During
World War I World War I or the First World War (28 July 1914 – 11 November 1918), also known as the Great War, was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War I, Allies (or Entente) and the Central Powers. Fighting to ...
, ''Ukiah'' carried munition-filled rail cars for the war effort. Overloading of the ship caused hull strains so severe that the government paid for complete rebuilding of the ship.
Shipwright Shipbuilding is the construction of ships and other floating vessels. In modern times, it normally takes place in a specialized facility known as a shipyard. Shipbuilders, also called shipwrights, follow a specialized occupation that traces i ...
s at the Southern Pacific yard labored for two years—eventually replacing all of its structure above the waterline. This kind of reconstruction was called "jacking up the whistle and sliding a new boat underneath." The refurbished ferry was christened ''Eureka'' in honor of the Northern California city, which also happened to be the new northern termination of the Northwestern Pacific Railroad. As a passenger ferry, she could carry 2,300 passengers and 120 automobiles. At that time, she was the biggest and the fastest double-ended passenger ferry boat in the world— long, with an extreme width of and gross tonnage of 2,420 tons.


1920s through retirement

Between 1922 and 1941 ''Eureka'' was on the Sausalito commuter run. As the largest of the Northwestern boats, ''Eureka'' made the heaviest commuter trips - the 7:30 from Sausalito and the 5:15 from San Francisco. Each trip averaged 2,200 passengers. During this period the upper deck included seating areas, a magazine stand, and a restaurant that served full meals. Eureka was primarily a passenger boat, carrying very few cars. After 1929, though, she sometimes made an extra run from the
Hyde Street Pier The Hyde Street Pier, at 2905 Hyde Street, is a historic ferry pier located on the northern waterfront of San Francisco in the U.S. state of California. Background Prior to the opening of the Golden Gate Bridge and the San Francisco–Oakland Ba ...
in San Francisco, carrying autos on Sundays. Completion of the
Golden Gate Bridge The Golden Gate Bridge is a suspension bridge spanning the Golden Gate, the strait connecting San Francisco Bay and the Pacific Ocean in California, United States. The structure links San Francisco—the northern tip of the San Francisco Peni ...
between
San Francisco San Francisco, officially the City and County of San Francisco, is a commercial, Financial District, San Francisco, financial, and Culture of San Francisco, cultural center of Northern California. With a population of 827,526 residents as of ...
and Marin in 1937 doomed ferry service. Northwestern Pacific first cut service, then abandoned ferries altogether in 1941. During the war years, ''Eureka'' joined a number of bay ferries in the work of transporting troops from
Camp Stoneman Camp Stoneman was a United States Army facility located in Pittsburg, California. It served as a major troop staging area for and under the command of the San Francisco Port of Embarkation (SFPOE). The camp operated during World War II and the K ...
in
Pittsburg, California Pittsburg (formerly Black Diamond, New York Landing and New York of the Pacific) is a city in Contra Costa County, California, United States. It is an industrial suburb located on the southern shore of the Suisun Bay in the East Bay region of t ...
, up the
Sacramento River The Sacramento River () is the principal river of Northern California in the United States and is the largest river in California. Rising in the Klamath Mountains, the river flows south for before reaching the Sacramento–San Joaquin River D ...
, to the port of embarkation piers in San Francisco. By the 1950s ''Eureka'' served by linking Southern Pacific's cross-country trains, which terminated at
Oakland Oakland is a city in the East Bay region of the San Francisco Bay Area in the U.S. state of California. It is the county seat and most populous city in Alameda County, with a population of 440,646 in 2020. A major West Coast port, Oakland is ...
, with San Francisco until 1957, when she snapped an engine crank pin. That service was discontinued the following year. In 1958, ''Eureka'' joined the fleet of historic ships now at the National Historical Park. In the late 1990s she was used as a main filming location for the TV-show ''
Nash Bridges ''Nash Bridges'' is an American police procedural television series created by Carlton Cuse. The show stars Don Johnson and Cheech Marin as two Inspectors with the San Francisco Police Department's Special Investigations Unit (SIU). The seri ...
''. In October 1999, Eureka entered San Francisco Drydock for a $1 million restoration project focusing on the vessel's superstructure—the above-water portions of the vessel. A significant portion of that restoration was the replacement of the boat's "kingposts"—four large wooden structures that support the paddlewheels and upper decks.


Design

Although a number of large ferryboats survive in the US, ''Eureka'' is the only one with a wooden hull. She is one of the most impressive remaining examples of traditional American wooden shipbuilding. Beneath her upperworks, the round-bottomed hull is wide and long. The house rests on a platform extending from the hull on either side. Her walking beam engine was originally powered by
coal Coal is a combustible black or brownish-black sedimentary rock, formed as rock strata called coal seams. Coal is mostly carbon with variable amounts of other Chemical element, elements, chiefly hydrogen, sulfur, oxygen, and nitrogen. Coal i ...
-fired
boilers A boiler is a closed vessel in which fluid (generally water) is heated. The fluid does not necessarily boil. The heated or vaporized fluid exits the boiler for use in various processes or heating applications, including water heating, central ...
that were converted to oil in 1905. The engine was built in 1890 by the Fulton Iron Works in San Francisco. ''Eureka'' is one of only two surviving vessels equipped with a walking beam engine, alongside the Ticonderoga, and the only one still afloat. With the increased length of , ''Eureka'' became the largest wooden passenger ferry ever built. She was certified to carry 3,500 people.


See also

*
Ferries of San Francisco Bay San Francisco Bay in California has been served by ferry, ferries of all types for over 150 years. John Reed (Early Californian), John Reed established a sailboat ferry service in 1826. Although the construction of the Golden Gate Bridge and the ...


References

;Notes ;Bibliography * * **


External links

* * * {{California Steamboats San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park Ferries of California Museum ships in San Francisco Historic American Engineering Record in San Francisco National Historic Landmarks in the San Francisco Bay Area Ships on the National Register of Historic Places in California National Register of Historic Places in San Francisco Steam ferries Fisherman's Wharf, San Francisco 1890 ships