
Col du Tourmalet (; elevation ) is one of the highest paved
mountain passes in the French
Pyrenees, in the department of
Hautes-Pyrénées.
Sainte-Marie-de-Campan is at the foot on the eastern side and the ski station
La Mongie two-thirds of the way up. The village of
Barèges lies on the western side, above the town of
Luz-Saint-Sauveur.
Higher roads in the Pyrenees
The Col du Tourmalet is the highest ''paved mountain pass'' in the ''French'' Pyrenees second only to the
Col de Portet. So in contrast to frequent claims (see for example), it is neither the highest paved road in the Pyrenees nor the highest paved mountain pass in the Pyrenees. Paved roads leading to the mountain lakes
Lac de Cap-de-Long and
Lac d'Aumar in the same French Department
Hautes-Pyrénées are higher, as these lakes are at altitudes of and , respectively. However, these roads are not mountain passes. Departing directly from the Col du Tourmalet, there is a road to the mountain pass
Col de Laquets with an altitude of However, this road is not paved. Finally, the highest paved mountain pass in the Pyrenees is the
Port d'Envalira in
Andorra with its altitude of .
Meaning of "Tourmalet"
Some Frenchmen believe that ''Tourmalet'' translates into "bad trip" or "bad detour" because in French ''Tour'' translates into "trip" and ''mal'' translates into "bad"; however, the correct language to translate from is
Gascon, not French, because of the mountain's location in the
Gascony region. Then ''Tour'' becomes "distance", which is spelled "tur" but pronounced "tour" and ''mal'' is translated into "mountain". The translation from Gascon to English then becomes "Distance Mountain".
Tourmalet is also a
cheese made from
sheep milk produced in these mountains.
Details of the climb

The western side,
from
Luz-Saint-Sauveur, is long, climbing at an average of 7.4% with a maximum of 10.2% near the summit. Starting from
Sainte-Marie-de-Campan, the eastern climb is , gaining , at an average of 7.4% with a maximum of 12%. As with most French climbs, each kilometre
mountain pass cycling milestones indicate the height of the summit, the distance to the summit, and the average gradient of the next kilometre. According to PJAMM Cycling's ranking system, the east side is the 24th hardest bike climb in France, and the west is ranked 26th.
From the pass, a rough track leads to the
Pic du Midi de Bigorre observatory. Up to the Col de Laquets (elevation ) this track is a dirt and gravel road. The part between the Col de Laquets and the observatory is a steep and narrow hiking track. Some terraces of the observatory can be entered for free from the end of the track. Paying an entrance fee, one can enter the actual observatory and also take the cable car down to
La Mongie.
Tour de France

The Col du Tourmalet is one of the most famous climbs on the
Tour de France. It has been included more than any other pass, starting in
1910, when the Pyrenees were introduced. The first rider over was
Octave Lapize, who went on to win the
general classification in Paris. In 1913,
Eugène Christophe broke his
fork on the Tourmalet and repaired it himself at a forge in Sainte-Marie-de-Campan.
Up to 2020, the Tour has visited the Col du Tourmalet a total of 87 times. The total includes three stage finishes at the summit and three at La Mongie. Since 1980 it has been ranked ''
hors catégorie'', or exceptional. The
Vuelta a España
The Vuelta a España (; ) is an annual stage race, multi-stage bicycle racing, bicycle race primarily held in Spain, while also occasionally making passes through nearby countries. Inspired by the success of the Tour de France and the Giro d'Ital ...
has also crossed the pass several times.
The 2010 edition of the Tour included the pass on two consecutive stages, crossing westward on the 16th stage to Pau and eastward on the 17th stage with a finish at the summit.
At the col is a memorial to
Jacques Goddet, director of the
Tour de France from 1936 to 1987, and a
large statue of
Octave Lapize gasping for air as he struggles to make the climb. The
Souvenir Jacques Goddet prize is awarded for the first rider to cross the Col du Tourmalet summit.
In
2023, the climb was featured in the
Tour de France Femmes for the first time, as the ''queen stage'' of the race.
Origins in the Tour

The Pyrenees were included in the Tour de France at the insistence of Alphonse Steinès, a colleague of the organiser,
Henri Desgrange. He told the story in a book published soon after the event.
Steinès first agreed that the Tour would pay 2,000 francs to clear the
Col d'Aubisque, then came back to investigate the Tourmalet. He started at Sainte-Marie-de-Campan with sausage, ham and cheese at the inn opposite the church and arranged to hire a driver called Dupont from Bagnères-de-Bigorre. Dupont and Steinès made it the first 16 km, after which their car came to a stop. Dupont and Steinès started to walk but Dupont turned back after 600m, shouting: "The bears come over from Spain when it snows". Steinès set off. He mistook voices in the darkness for thieves. They were youngsters guarding sheep with their dog. Steinès called to one.
"Son, do you know the Tourmalet well? Could you guide me? I'll give you a gold coin. When we get to the other top, I'll give you another one"
The boy joined him but then turned back.
Steinès rested on a rock. He considered sitting it out until dawn, then realised he'd freeze. He slipped on the icy road, then fell into a stream. He climbed back to the road and again fell in the snow. Exhausted and stumbling, he heard another voice.
"Tell me who goes there or I'll shoot".
"I'm a lost traveller. I've just come across the Tourmalet".
"Oh, it's you, Monsieur Steinès! We were expecting you! We got a phone call at Ste-Marie-de-Campan. Everybody's at Barèges. It's coming on for three o'clock. There are search teams of guides out looking for you".
The organising newspaper, ''
L'Auto'', had a correspondent at Barèges, a man called Lanne-Camy. He took him for a bath and provided new clothes.
Steines sent a telegram to Desgrange: "Crossed Tourmalet stop. Very good road stop. Perfectly feasible".
Tour de France stage finishes
Other appearances in Tour de France
Tour de France Femmes
The Col du Tourmalet featured in the premiere event of
Tour de France Femmes in 2023 as the finish of stage 7 on July 29.
Other events
The Col du Tourmalet features in other bicycle races, including the
Vuelta a España
The Vuelta a España (; ) is an annual stage race, multi-stage bicycle racing, bicycle race primarily held in Spain, while also occasionally making passes through nearby countries. Inspired by the success of the Tour de France and the Giro d'Ital ...
when it has made excursions into France. It is also on the route of
cyclosportive competitions. Thousands of amateur riders make the climb every year and many take documents to have rubber-stamped in the shop at the summit to show they have made it.
See also
*
Souvenir Henri Desgrange
References
Further reading
*
External links
Profile on climbbybike.com
Complete list of leaders over summit
Tourmalet website
Bagneres de Bigorre - La Mongie website
Tourmalet cheeseReconnaissance DVD b
CyclefilmDetails of the 1910 tourCol du Tourmalet on Google Maps (Tour de France classic climbs)
{{DEFAULTSORT:Tourmalet
Mountain passes of Hautes-Pyrénées
Mountain passes of the Pyrenees
Climbs in cycle racing in France
Transport in Occitania (administrative region)