Changdeok Palace

Changdeokgung () is a former royal palace in Seoul, South Korea. A UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Historic Site of South Korea, it is among the best preserved of all Korean palaces. It and its neighboring palace Changgyeonggung have together been called the "East Palace".

Changdeokgung was established in 1405. It was the second palace to be established in Seoul, after Joseon's official main palace Gyeongbokgung. Despite Gyeongbokgung's legally superior status, a majority of kings preferred to reside in Changdeokgung instead. In 1592, amidst the Imjin War, Changdeokgung and all the other palaces in the city were completely destroyed. After the war, due to budgetary constraints, Gyeongbokgung was not repaired, while Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung were. This effectively made Changdeokgung Joseon's main palace for several centuries.

In the late 19th century, under the reign of the penultimate Korean monarch Gojong, Gyeongbokgung was rebuilt and the royal family moved out of Changdeokgung and into Gyeongbokgung. In 1907, Gojong was forced by Japan to abdicate, and his son and final Korean monarch Sunjong ascended the throne and made Changdeokgung his official palace. In 1910, Japan colonized Korea, and proceeded to heavily alter the palace. The Korean royal family continued to reside in the palace even after the 1945 liberation of Korea and into the late 20th century.

Changdeokgung is now a major tourist attraction. In 1997, it was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The palace's , long beloved by Korean monarchs, are now mostly available to the public, with some sections requiring tours to be booked.

Name

"Changdeokgung" means "Palace of Prospering Virtue". The palace received this name on the 25th day, 10th month of 1404, shortly after the first phase of its construction was completed.

Changdeokgung and its neighboring palace Changgyeonggung are together known as the "Eastern Palace" (), as they are located to the east of the city's main palace Gyeongbokgung.

History

Establishment

In 1392 (Korean calendar), Joseon was established. Afterwards, the state's capital Hanyang (also called Hanseong and later called Seoul) was established and Gyeongbokgung was made its main palace (). Due to political turmoil, the capital was temporarily moved to Kaesong and then back to Hanyang in 1404. King Taejong () then ordered the establishment of Changdeokgung as a secondary palace (). His possible motivations for this order have been analyzed. A number of scholars have argued Taejong wanted to avoid Gyeongbokgung because he associated it with unpleasant memories of familial deaths there and thought it had inauspicious feng shui qualities. Historians Lee et al. have also argued that he wanted a secondary palace to be freer from the political influences of government offices and politicians in and around Gyeongbokgung.

A temporary office was established to manage the creation of the palace. Changdeokgung's location was finalized on the 6th day, 10th month of 1404, and construction began that day. Under the supervision of , numerous artisans, soldiers, monks, and commoners worked on the construction. The first phase of construction was completed on the 19th day, 10th month of 1405. Taejong entered the palace on the 20th day of that month and held a celebration banquet there. At the time, there were only several complete buildings in the palace, including the royal bedchambers and bathhouse. The palace then had either a total of 287 rooms () or 192 rooms. There was likely not much space for government offices in the palace for government offices at the time; offices in and around Gyeongbokgung were repaired and officials likely went back and forth between those and Changdeokgung. Meanwhile, construction continued. In 1406, the shrine Insojeon () and a Buddhist shrine were completed in the rear garden area, along with the pavilion Gwangyeollu (); in 1408, a pond was dug; and in 1411, a pavilion was completed.

Before the Imjin War

For the rest of his reign, Taejong primarily resided in Changdeokgung. Gyeongbokgung's restoration was ordered only after Taejong had moved into Changdeokgung. Even after his abdication, he resided in the palace Suganggung (; later became Changgyeonggung) next to Changdeokgung; from there he influenced the reign of his son Sejong the Great (). Even after Taejong's abdication, construction continued. Part of a building collapsed and the supervisor of that building's construction was exiled as punishment. By 1418, facilities were deemed adequate enough to hold more significant ceremonies at Changdeokgung instead of at Gyeongbokgung. From the third year of Sejong's reign, Sejong began putting more emphasis on Gyeongbokgung and moved frequently between the two palaces. In 1426, he ordered that many structures in Changdeokgung be named. In 1427, he entirely moved out of Changdeokgung and resided primarily in Gyeongbokgung, although he continued moving between the two frequently. King Sejo () significantly expanded Changdeokgung to the north and east. For one such project, 19,000 people from the Hanyang region were assembled. King Seongjo () also expanded the palace and resided in Changdeokgung for the entirety of his reign. In 1475, he had all 29 of the palace's gates named and held a ceremony for the installation of their name plaques. As there was not enough space in Changdeokgung for all the living queens in the royal family, he decided to expand Changgyeonggung for them instead. King Yeonsangun () also greatly renovated the palace, although renovations were put to a halt when he was deposed.

Destruction and reconstruction

In 1592, during the 1592–1598 Imjin War, all the city's palaces were completely burned down. It is debated who burned down the palaces, as surviving contemporary records are from intellectuals who did not witness the burnings. Various contemporary Korean texts, including the ', report hearsay that it was Korean commoners who burned down the palace to destroy palace records. When the Japanese invaders entered the city on the 2nd day, 5th month of that year, Gyeongbokgung was still intact. Japanese discipline in the city was reportedly initially high, but when they began suffering defeats, they took their frustrations out on the city and locals, burning buildings and killing.

After the war, efforts began to repair the city's palaces. Initially, plans were drawn up to have Gyeongbokgung repaired, but these were not acted upon. There is a record of arguments against Gyeongbokgung's reconstruction because of perceived inauspicious qualities of that palace. In addition, Joseon's economy had been devastated by the war, and funding for repairing Gyeongbokgung was likely difficult to procure. Changdeokgung was restored instead; a number of buildings were recreated in their original locations. The first round of restorations was completed during the reign of King Gwanghaegun () on the 1st day, 9th month of 1610. However, Gwanghaegun expressed little interest in Changdeokgung, and continued to reside in the temporary palace Gyeongungung (later became Deoksugung). In 1617, he had the palaces and established.

In 1623, during the Injo coup that installed King Injo (), rebels burned down almost all the buildings in Changdeokgung. Only Injeongjeon, two buildings for the , a palace pharmacy, a building for the government office Ch'unch'ugwan, a building called Biseunggak, a building for the government office Hongmun'gwan, and a building called Sujeongjeon were spared. Injo was crowned at Gyeongbokgung, and resided at Changgyeonggung. He had In'gyŏnggung and Kyŏngdŏkkung demolished and recycled to repair Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung. Injo had the rear gardens renovated, and spent much relaxation time there. In 1624, during Yi Kwal's Rebellion, Changgyeonggung was mostly burned down. Injo then resided in Kyŏngdŏkkung temporarily, and first ordered that Changgyeonggung be repaired. In 1633, after repairs on Changgyeonggung were completed, Injo ordered that Changdeokgung be repaired. He then began to temporarily reside in the palace pharmacy. Construction work on palaces was interrupted and delayed by the 1636 Qing invasion of Joseon. Minor construction projects occurred in the meantime, especially in the rear garden. Significant construction resumed in 1647 and concluded after five months in 1648; a major reason why construction was able to be finished in five months was because of recycling of buildings from In'gyŏnggung. In total there were around 735 rooms in the palace around this time. One significant change after the reconstruction was the presence of more government office buildings. This was in part because the government offices in Gyeongbokgung had not been restored.After this reconstruction and without rivalry from Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung became the definitive main palace of Joseon. More buildings continued to be constructed in the palace. There was a fire in the palace in 1671. Under the reign of King Sukjong (), the rear garden reached its greatest extent. In 1687, a fire destroyed almost all of the Mansujeon area. In 1702, a fire destroyed part of the East Palace. Succeeding kings continued to expand and renovate the palace, although King Yeongjo () ordered much fewer repairs as he primarily resided in Gyeonghuigung. There were a number of fires during the reign of King Sunjo (), with a major one occurring in the 10th month of 1833. During his reign, most construction at the palace was either rebuilding or maintenance work. By the 19th century, Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung were functionally a single palace. The two had some unique government offices, although they had some facilities with overlapping purposes.

Late Joseon and Korean Empire periods

In 1865, efforts began to restore Gyeongbokgung. King Gojong () and his family moved out of Changdeokgung and into Gyeongbokgung on the 2nd day, 7th month of 1868. Although Gyeongbokgung was officially made Joseon's main palace, Changdeokgung continued to see some use. Gyeongbokgung experienced major fires in 1873 and 1876. After the 1876 fire, the royal family moved back into Changdeokgung and did not return to Gyeongbokgung until 1885, after the 1884 Kapsin Coup. The king resided mostly in Gyeongbokgung until 1895. Meanwhile, more maintenance work occurred at Changdeokgung. Such work was interrupted in by the 1882 Imo Incident. In 1891, a number of Changdeokgung's buildings were disassembled and moved to Gyeongbokgung.

Amidst increasing Japanese influence over Korea and the 1895 assassination of Empress Myeongseong at Gyeongbokgung, Gojong fled Gyeongbokgung and made Gyeongungung his official palace. From there, he established the Korean Empire and crowned himself emperor. Gojong did not significantly use Changdeokgung thereafter. Some minor construction work continued at the palace in his absence.

In 1905, Korea was made a protectorate of Japan, governed by the . On July 19, 1907, Gojong was forcefully deposed by Japan and replaced by his son and the final Korean monarch Emperor Sunjong (). After ascending the throne, Sunjong made Changdeokgung his primary residence, while Gojong continued to stay in Deoksugung. Historian Lee Gyu-cheol argued that Japan moved Sunjong to Changdeokgung in order to separate him from his father. Soon after his coronation, Sunjong ordered that Changdeokgung be repaired. He moved into the palace in November of that year. The residency-general oversaw the demolition of large portions of the palace from 1907 to 1909; this has since been viewed critically by Lee et al., who argued it was an attempt to demolish a symbol of Korean sovereignty.

Colonial period

On August 29, 1910, Korea became a colony of Japan. According to a 1912 document, the Office of the Yi Dynasty, an organization representing the former Korean royal family, owned the palace. Japan continued significantly altering the palace, demolishing dozens of buildings. Despite this, the overall outer boundary of the palace and its rear garden remained mostly unchanged throughout the colonial period.

Around 5 p.m. on November 10, 1917, a major fire broke out in the palace. It began in the former emperor's bedchambers Daejojeon and destroyed the ''naejŏn'' area of the palace. The fire was extinguished by 8 p.m. that day. Numerous valuables and historic relics were lost in the fire. Reconstruction work began soon after and lasted for years afterwards, although it was delayed by the 1919 March First Movement protests. The colonial government ordered that many of Gyeongbokgung's buildings be demolished and recycled for reconstructing Changdeokgung. Daejojeon was reconstructed by 1920, and the former royal family resumed living in it.

Sunjong died in the palace on April 25, 1926. Historian Se-Mi Oh argued that, after Sunjong's death, efforts to modify the palace accelerated. In either 1927 or 1931, the road was constructed between Jongmyo and Changdeokgung, separating the two entities for the first time. Oh described the separation as "direct violence against the sacred ancestral shrine and the monarchy".
File:조선고적도보의 창덕궁 배치도.jpg, Map of Changdeokgung published in 1930; extant structures colored in black, demolished structures colored in grey
File:昌德宮平面圖 창덕궁평면도.jpg, Map of Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, the rear gardens, and Jongmyo (produced around 1921 to 1932)

Post-liberation

Parts of the palace (notably Nakseon-jae hall) continued to function as a royal residence up to 1989, when both Princess Deokhye and Crown Princess Bangja died. Other post-WWII residents included Empress Sunjeong (Sunjong's second wife), Crown Prince Yi Un, his son Yi Ku and Yi Ku's wife Julia Mullock. Residence for former royals in the palace in the post-war period was at the whim of South Korean presidents, and after the Korean liberation in 1945. The resignation of Syngman Rhee finally allowed former imperial family members to return.

Changdeokgung was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997. The UNESCO committee stated the place was an "outstanding example of Far Eastern palace architecture and garden design" being exceptional because the buildings are "integrated into and harmonized with the natural setting" and adapted "to the topography and retaining indigenous tree cover."

Design and layout

The palace was designed in consideration of both ancient Chinese principles and practicality. Changdeokgung's primary layout is based on the three gates and three courtyards () system, from the Chinese work ''Kaogongji'', part of the ''Rites of Zhou''. The system advocates for palaces to have three main sections that are to be accessed in sequential order. The sections proceed from public-facing to private. These sections are the first gate Donhwamun and courtyard (; used for government offices and public-facing events), second gate Jinseonmun and courtyard (; used for conducting politics between the king and his subjects), and third gate Injeongmun and courtyard (; where the king and his family resided).
Lee et al. subdivided the palace as such: ''oejŏn'', ''naejŏn'', East Palace, government offices, and rear gardens (also called Secret Garden).

Changdeokgung is based primarily on a west to east axis, in contrast to Gyeongbokgung's south to north axis. Correspondingly, the outer palace proceeds east to the inner palace.

There are numerous mulberry trees around the palace, the leaves of which can be used to feed silkworms. This is possibly linked to several queens having raised silkworms in the palace.

Relationship with Changgyeonggung

Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung have been strongly interlinked, and have been described as functionally being a single palace. Buildings for which there was insufficient space in Changdeokgung were often constructed in Changgyeonggung instead. Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung are separated by the gate Geonyangmun (). Over time, various contradicting claims have been made about which buildings (particularly those on the border of the two palaces) belonged to which palace. Such claims were made about the East Palace, Junghuidang, and Changgyeonggung's Jeoseungjeon ().

According to a 1912 document, the two palaces were then considered to belong to the same administrative district: . The two palaces were physically divided with a border wall during the colonial period. In 1963, the border wall was used to define a formal legal boundary between the two palaces. This boundary has persisted to the present.

Landmarks

Outer gates

''Oejo''

''Oejo'' () refers to the part of a palace where the king conducted state affairs. It can be subdivided into the ''chŏngjŏn'' (; main area) and ''p'yŏnjŏn'' (; secondary area).

''Oejŏn''

Government offices

The government offices inside palaces are called ' (). Changdeokgung's facilities were relatively small and meant for daily work with the king; most large government ministry facilities were located outside the palace, for example on . After being destroyed in 1592 during the Imjin War, government offices were rebuilt during in 1647. Many offices that had once existed in Gyeongbokgung were moved over to Changdeokgung. All government office buildings in front of Seonjeongjeon and Huijeongdang were demolished between 1907 and 1909.

''Naejo''

''Naejŏn''

''Naejŏn'' () refers to a part of a palace where a king or queen resided. Palace women, particularly those of the Naemyŏngbu, also often used this space. When space for buildings became insufficient in this part of the palace, buildings were constructed in Changgyeonggung instead. The ''naejŏn'' experienced a fire in 1833 and was rebuilt in 1834. It was completely destroyed in the 1917 fire.

East Palace

The East Palace () was used as the residence, study area, and office of the crown prince, although when it was not occupied by a crown prince it was used for other purposes. Before the Imjin War, it was located outside the confines of Changdeokgung. It was reconstructed after the Imjin War, but after a series of fires, it was reconstructed closer to the rest of the palace, as part of the ''naejo''. Its facilities became shared by both Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung, and its main gates are located to the east, meaning that it was primarily meant to be accessed from Changgyeonggung. After Gyeongbokgung and that palace's East Palace was reconstructed in the late 19th century, Changdeokgung's East Palace lost its utility. Many of the buildings in this area no longer exist.

Secret Garden

The rear garden (), popularly known as the (), is located to the north and rear of both Changdeokgung and Changgyeong, and access to it is shared by both palaces. It was a private garden used often for leisure, but also for politics, ceremonies, military training drills, and civil service and military examinations. Leisure activities included hunting, parties, and practicing martial arts. Prior to the 20th century, entrance into the garden was prohibited for most people. A new road was built in the area in 1909. It has a number of artificial ponds and pavilions. It has over 160 species of trees. More than 70 trees in this area are over 300 years old. The garden's highest elevation is in its center, and it slopes to the east and west.

Buyongjeong area

Yeongyeongdang area

Ongnyucheon area

The stream () flows through the north side of the Secret Garden. It was created in 1636. This area was closed for access beginning in 1979, in order to protect the ecology of the area. It was reopened to the public on May 1, 2004 on a reservation only basis. The pavilions Soyojeong, Taegeukjeong, and Cheonguijeong are collectively called the "Three Pavilions of the Royal Grove" () and have been described as scenic.

Aeryeonjeong area

Gwallamjeong area

Other structures

Nakseonjae area

Old Seonwonjeon area

New Seonwonjeon area

Other

Geumcheon and Geumcheongyo

Geumcheon () is the ' (; different Hanja but same Hangul spelling) that previously flowed through the palace. Water no longer flows through the stream.

The () is a ''kŭmch'ŏn'gyo'' (bridge over a ''kŭmch'ŏn'') that crosses over Geumcheon. It was completed on the 18th day, 3rd month of 1411 and is the oldest extant ''kŭmch'ŏn'gyŏ'' of all Joseon palaces. It has two arches. It has a number of stone statues of mythological creatures. On its northern baluster is a statue of the Black Turtle-Snake, mythological guardian of the north. The statue on the south baluster is the Bai Ze, guardian of the south. On each of the bridge's four newels is a statue of a ''Xiezhi''. The bridge also has engravings of a ''dokkaebi'' (Korean goblin) called '' nati'' on both sides.

Former landmarks

''Naejo''

''Naejŏn''

Jinggwangnu () was a two-story pavilion to the northeast of Daejojeon. It was built in 1647 using materials from In'gyŏnggung. It had blue roof tiles. It was destroyed in the 1917 fire. Gyeonghungak was rebuilt in Jinggwangnu's former location in 1920.

Yeonghwidang () was a building to the west of Gyeonghungak. It was closely linked with another building Okhwadang. It was destroyed by fire in 1833 and restored. It was destroyed in the 1917 fire and never rebuilt.

Yeonyangnu () was a small pavilion to the southeast of Yeonghwidang. It burned down in 1833, was restored, then was again burned down in 1917 and never rebuilt.

Okhwadang () was a building to the west of Yeonghwidang. It was named in 1461. It was destroyed by fire in 1833 and restored. It was destroyed in the 1917 fire and never rebuilt.

Bogyeongdang () was the living quarters of Royal Noble Consort Sukbin Choe. It was the birthplace of King Sukjong. It was named in 1461. After being destroyed in 1592 during the Imjin War, it was rebuilt in 1647.

Sodeokdang () was a northern annex to Seonjeongjeon. It received the name "Sodeokdang" in 1461. It is attested to in 1565 but is not depicted in the 19th-century map ''Donggwoldo''.

Taehwadang () was a building to the north of Seonjeongjeon. It is not known when it was built; it is attested to in 1647.

Jaedeokdang () was a building to the north of Seonjeongjeon and to the east of Taehwadang.

East Palace

() was the East Palace's main hall and the residence of the crown prince. It was originally built in 1782, likely for Crown Prince Munhyo. It was meant to replace older facilities in the East Palace that had previously burned down. After Munhyo's premature death, it was used as a council hall. It was relocated to an unknown location in 1891; its former location has remained empty ever since. A number of its former buildings still stand, including the crown prince's library Seunghwaru (), the gazebo Samsamwa (), and the building Chilbunseo ().

Old East Palace

Simindang (), Jeoseungjeon, and Nakseondang (later replaced by Nakseonjae) were together considered the East Palace. Simindang was destroyed by fire in 1780. Rather than rebuild Simindang and the rest of the East Palace, Junghuidang was built in what became the current East Palace area inside the ''naejŏ''.

Old Seonwonjeon area

Mansujeon () was a building behind Injeongjeon. It was completed on the 2nd day, 4th month of 1657. It had an annex building Chunhwijeon () that was completed that same year. Mansujeon burned down on the 2nd day, 9th month of 1687. In its place was later built Gyeongbokjeon (). Chunhwijeon was then converted to a portrait hall. In 1695, it was renamed "Seonwonjeon" and became a part of the Seonwonjeon complex. Queen Jeongsun died here in 1805. Gyeongbokjeon burned down on the 24th day, 8th month of 1824.

Yeongmodang () was a hall. It was a residence of Queen Jeongsun.

New Seonwonjeon area

Daebodan () was a building constructed to hold rituals honoring the Chinese Ming Emperor, in thanks for their assistance during the Imjin War. It was first built in 1704 and was significantly renovated in 1749. The building was demolished to make way for the New Seonwonjeon some time between 1911 and 1921.

Other buildings

Sujeongjeon (). It was originally called Sujeongdang () and received its final name in 1794. Repairs were completed on the 8th day, 12th month of 1794. In 1796, the crown prince began to reside here. Queen Jeongsun and Queen Hyoui resided here. A fire broke out here on the 13th day, 12th month of 1813, but the main building was mostly undamaged. Hyoui died here in the 3rd month of 1821. It was repaired in the 3rd month of 1881 and renamed to Hamnyeongjeon (; different from the in Deoksugung). It was destroyed by fire only months later, on the 7th day, 11th month of 1881. It was nearly finished being rebuilt when its progress was interrupted by the 1895 assassination of Empress Myeongseong. Hamnyeongjeon was then relocated to Gyeongbokgung, where it became the building Jibokjae.

Jibokjae and Hyeopgildang. They were originally built as annex buildings to Sujeongjeon in 1881. They were spared by the Hamnyeongjeon fire that year. In 1891, they were disassembled and moved to Gyeongbokgung.Jipsangjeon () was a residence hall. It was built in either 1647 or 1667, originally for Queen Inseon.

Cheonhangak () was a building. It was previously named Gyeongsojae () but was renamed in 1694. It was possibly located to the north of Jipsangjeon.

Maewoljeong () was a pavilion to the north of Jipsangjeon. It was demolished when Jipsangjeon was constructed.

Yeonhwadang () was a building to the east of Seonjeongjeon. It is attested to existing in 1647 and 1784.

Jangchunheon () was a building. It is presumed the building was used as a living quarters for concubines. Queen Danui died here in 1718. The building was gone by the 1790–1834 reign of King Sunjo.

Notes

References

Sources

In Korean

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In English

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Additional reading

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External links

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UNESCO: Changdeokgung Palace Complex

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Palaces in Seoul
Gardens in South Korea
Jongno District
Downtown Seoul
Royal residences in South Korea
Tourist attractions in Seoul
World Heritage Sites in South Korea

Korean gardens
Palaces of Joseon