
Beth "Bijie" Martin (October 13, 1900 – January 30, 1968) was an American fashion director, writer and actress.
Born in New York City, she was the daughter of American Opera singers
Riccardo Martin and
Ruano Bogislav. From the time Martin was a small child she was dubbed 'Bijie' by her theatrical parents who moved between homes in New York, Paris and Italy. She early on developed an interest in theatre, but unlike her vocally talented parents opted to find a path on dramatic stage. Her brief though critically praised theatrical career in the early 1920s led to a close friendship with actress
Tallulah Bankhead
Tallulah Brockman Bankhead (January 31, 1902 – December 12, 1968) was an American actress. Primarily an actress of the stage, Bankhead also appeared in several prominent films including an award-winning performance in Alfred Hitchcock's ''Lif ...
whom she met in London. Both woman shared an affinity for fashion and bohemian living with a devotion and flare for their Southern backgrounds (Martin's father a Kentuckian born to a prominent Virginia family whom descended from
William Thornton
William Thornton (May 20, 1759 – March 28, 1828) was a British-American physician, inventor, painter and architect who designed the United States Capitol. He also served as the first Architect of the Capitol and first Superintendent of the Uni ...
,
William Thornton
William Thornton (May 20, 1759 – March 28, 1828) was a British-American physician, inventor, painter and architect who designed the United States Capitol. He also served as the first Architect of the Capitol and first Superintendent of the Uni ...
, and
Christopher Branch
Christopher Branch (circa 1600-1681) was an early English settler in Colonial Virginia, Planter class, tobacco planter, and a member and justice of the House of Burgesses. He was a three times great-grandfather of United States President Thomas Je ...
. Martin's theatre opportunities began to wane by 1928 and she opted to leave the stage to reside in Paris with her mother.
In 1928, Martin married Rudolph de Wardener. De Wardener was the American born son of Austro-Hungarian aristocrat Baron Rudolph de Wardener, who had arrived in the United States to fight for the Union Army during the Civil War. Wardener was a broker living in Paris at the time of the marriage and Martin remained in Paris until the outbreak of the Second World War. The marriage eventually fell apart and the two divorced though Martin retained her husband's name for the rest of her life. Early on Martin developed a fashion career and while in Paris found a position in the fashion house of couturier Main Rousseau Bocher better known as
Mainbocher
Mainbocher is a fashion label founded by the American couturier Main Rousseau Bocher (October 24, 1890 – December 27, 1976), also known as Mainbocher (pronounced "Maine-Bow-Shay"). Established in 1929, the house of Mainbocher successfully ope ...
. Martin remained as "Directrice" of the company for nearly thirty years overseeing the development of fashion lines and maintaining strong connections with high-profile customers including the
Duchess of Windsor
Wallis, Duchess of Windsor (born Bessie Wallis Warfield, later Simpson; June 19, 1896 – April 24, 1986), was an American socialite and wife of the former King Edward VIII. Their intention to marry and her status as a divorcée caused a ...
. Martin followed the company to New York where she remained until her retirement. During her New York period she regularly contributed to fashion magazines and other periodicals on fashion theory and developing women's fashion trends. She died at the age of 68 at Norwalk, Connecticut.
References
* United States Passport and Immigration Records, The National Archives and Records Administration, 700 Pennsylvania Ave. NW, Washington, D.C.
* "Biji Martin, Designer, Is Dead; Was Director of Mainbocher's", Obituary, The New York Times, February 1, 1968.
* Flanner, Janet, "Pioneer: Profile of Main Bocher", The New Yorker, January 13, 1940.
* Pictorial Review, Volume 33, Issue 12, New York, 1932.
* Crawford, Morris de Camp, "Ways of Fashion", Fairchild Pub., New York, 1941.
* De Acosta, Mercedes, "Here lies the Heart", Arno Press, New York, 1975.
* Home Journal, Volume 94, Hearst Corp. 1939.
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Martin, Bijie
1900 births
1968 deaths
Actresses from New York City
American fashion businesspeople
Businesspeople from New York City
20th-century American actresses
20th-century American businesspeople