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Bhitargarh () is an archaeological site that includes the remains of an ancient fort city built in and around the 5th century AD. It is located in Panchagarh District in
Rangpur Division Rangpur Division (; ; ) is a first-level Divisions of Bangladesh, administrative division of Bangladesh. It covers the northernmost part of the country with a population of about 18 million inhabitants within an area of . Rangpur Division shar ...
in the northern part of
Bangladesh Bangladesh, officially the People's Republic of Bangladesh, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, eighth-most populous country in the world and among the List of countries and dependencies by ...
and is large enough that it can be seen from space. The archaeological significance of the site lies in its strategic position as an intersection of the trade routes between
Tibet Tibet (; ''Böd''; ), or Greater Tibet, is a region in the western part of East Asia, covering much of the Tibetan Plateau and spanning about . It is the homeland of the Tibetan people. Also resident on the plateau are other ethnic groups s ...
,
Nepal Nepal, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is mainly situated in the Himalayas, but also includes parts of the Indo-Gangetic Plain. It borders the Tibet Autonomous Region of China Ch ...
,
Bhutan Bhutan, officially the Kingdom of Bhutan, is a landlocked country in South Asia, in the Eastern Himalayas between China to the north and northwest and India to the south and southeast. With a population of over 727,145 and a territory of , ...
and the middle and lower Ganges Valley. At its height the city stretched over 5km by 3km and involved rerouting the Talma River.


History

Bhitargarh was a walled city state, the largest in the northern South Asia, and used to be the seat of King Prithu, popularly known as Maharaja. It used to be an independent city state with a sovereign government till the 13th century. Very little is known about its last sovereign, Prithu Raja, who was believed to have committed suicide because of his religion. There is a legend that Prithu Raja committed suicide along with his army at the Maharaja Dighi to protect their purity from being sullied by an invading force from the impure Kichok Tribe, which had attacked the city. The tribe is believed to be from present-day
Cooch Behar District Cooch Behar district (), also known as Koch Bihar district, is one of the List of districts of West Bengal, 23 districts of the state of West Bengal in India. The district is the part of Jalpaiguri division, Jalpaiguri Division. Cooch Behar ci ...
in India, located to the north of the city. In the ancient period, Bhitargarh served as a node of important trade routes, including the Southwest Silk Road, linking the ancient kingdoms of Tibet and
Yunnan Yunnan; is an inland Provinces of China, province in Southwestern China. The province spans approximately and has a population of 47.2 million (as of 2020). The capital of the province is Kunming. The province borders the Chinese provinces ...
with
Bengal Bengal ( ) is a Historical geography, historical geographical, ethnolinguistic and cultural term referring to a region in the Eastern South Asia, eastern part of the Indian subcontinent at the apex of the Bay of Bengal. The region of Benga ...
and eastern India. Its location on the bank of Karatoya River made it easier to access Tibet through the city. Its influence in connecting the ancient trade routes in the region extends from Magadha to as far as Southwest China through the Brahmaputra Valley as well as western and southeastern bank of
Mekong River The Mekong or Mekong River ( , ) is a transboundary river in East Asia and Southeast Asia. It is the world's List of rivers by length, twelfth-longest river and List of longest rivers of Asia, the third-longest in Asia with an estimated l ...
. The city could have seen the arrival of Kambojas in the first half of 10th century, who were ruling the rest of Bengal at that time. It became part of the
Bengal Sultanate The Bengal Sultanate (Middle Bengali: , Classical Persian: ) was a Post-classical history, late medieval sultanate based in the Bengal region in the eastern South Asia between the 14th and 16th century. It was the dominant power of the Ganges- ...
in 1498 during the reign of Alauddin Husain Shah. Bhitargarh later fell into the Khen Kingdom and then into the Koch Kingdom and continued to serve as a trading hub till the seventeenth century when it was conquered by the
Mughal Bengal The Bengal Subah ( Bengali: সুবাহ বাংলা, ), also referred to as Mughal Bengal and Bengal State (after 1717), was one of the puppet states and the largest subdivision of The Mughal Empire encompassing much of the Bengal ...
under the reign of Mir Jumla II.


Geography

Bhitargarh covers an area of , situated in the Amarkhana Union of Panchagarh Sadar Upazila within the Panchagarh District. The site is covered by sand and gravel which flowed down from the Himalayan foothills by glacial waters as well as monsoon rainfalls. Topographically, the land is part of the Old Himalayan Piedmont Plains while the gravel beds belong to the Upper Pleistocene stage, similar to the rest of Panchagarh District. The Upper Pleistocene layer is further overlain by
Holocene The Holocene () is the current geologic time scale, geological epoch, beginning approximately 11,700 years ago. It follows the Last Glacial Period, which concluded with the Holocene glacial retreat. The Holocene and the preceding Pleistocene to ...
deposits, evident in the alluvium sand, silt and clay. The composition of different minerals in the Holocene gravel beds is indistinguishable from that of the Himalayas. The site is in close proximity to two tributaries of Karatoya river, Talma and Kudum to its west and east respectively. There is also the
Teesta River Teesta River is a long river that rises in the Pauhunri Mountain of eastern Himalayas, flows through the Indian states of Sikkim and West Bengal and subsequently enters Bangladesh through Rangpur division. In Bangladesh, it merges with Jamu ...
, flowing about to the east of the site, as well as the Salmara river which flows right beside the western rampart of the city.


Archaeological excavations

Excavations at Bhitargarh began in 2008 by a team from the University of Liberal Arts Bangladesh (ULAB) when the site was found in a dilapidated condition. Archaeological investigations assert that the city's territorial boundary included four "concentric quadrangles", separated by ramparts built with earth and bricks. The ramparts were further bolstered by the presence of rectangular
bastion A bastion is a structure projecting outward from the curtain wall of a fortification, most commonly angular in shape and positioned at the corners of the fort. The fully developed bastion consists of two faces and two flanks, with fire from the ...
s and
buttress A buttress is an architectural structure built against or projecting from a wall which serves to support or reinforce the wall. Buttresses are fairly common on more ancient (typically Gothic) buildings, as a means of providing support to act ...
es found at regular intervals. Each of the quadrangles were also surrounded by
moat A moat is a deep, broad ditch dug around a castle, fortification, building, or town, historically to provide it with a preliminary line of defence. Moats can be dry or filled with water. In some places, moats evolved into more extensive water d ...
s. These ramparts were built to protect the city from both floods and foreign invasions. The fortified structural design of Bhitargarh conforms to the construction recommendations defined at
Arthashastra ''Kautilya's Arthashastra'' (, ; ) is an Ancient Indian Sanskrit treatise on statecraft, politics, economic policy and military strategy. The text is likely the work of several authors over centuries, starting as a compilation of ''Arthashas ...
. Some foundations of religious and other monuments that trace their origin to the early medieval period have been discovered in the excavations. One of these structures is a residential complex while the rest are temples. One of the temples has a cruciform shape and has a stupa nearby which is bordered by two verandas, all situated in the first quadrangle. In the second quadrangle exist two gateways called ''Yama Duar'' or "Door of death" at the western rampart and ''Kala Duar'' or "Door of eternal time" at southern rampart. Artifacts which were discovered include pottery, clay, iron, and brass-based objects; copper and gold bangles; terracotta and stone beads as well as some stone sculptures which are believed to be from a period between 7th and 12th centuries AD. Some black basalt-based artifacts including pieces of idols of Manasa, Ramachandra and
Hanuman Hanuman (; , ), also known as Maruti, Bajrangabali, and Anjaneya, is a deity in Hinduism, revered as a divine ''vanara'', and a devoted companion of the deity Rama. Central to the ''Ramayana'', Hanuman is celebrated for his unwavering devotio ...
were also discovered by local villagers. Ten ponds (''dighi'') also exist in the area, of which Maharajar Dighi of 53 acres is historically significant. Archaeological studies also discovered evidence of dams in the ancient city, pointing to the advanced irrigation and cultivation system of its inhabitants. These stone-based dams were built to divert the water of Shalmara into the city during dry seasons to be utilized in agricultural and household activities. One of these dams was located at a place called Domoni at the southern rampart of the third quadrangle, used to control the water flow. There were two additional structures made of granite stones, one at Pathar-ghata and another at Kamarbhita which were built to split the course of Shalmara river into three. These structures were also used as embankments to control the level of water flow to store water at upstream. The Shalmara river then joins the Talma river at Birbandh in the northeastern part of the third quadrangle which is believed to be a man-made diversion made by the city's inhabitants.


Threats and preservation efforts

Despite its considerable potential in the historical studies of the region, Bhitargarh remains threatened by continuous encroachment. The Department of Archaeology of
Bangladesh government The government of the People's Republic of Bangladesh () is the central government of Bangladesh. The government was constituted by the Constitution of Bangladesh comprising the executive (the president, prime minister and cabinet), the le ...
does not possess any land in the area and neither has any preservation project. As of 2019, about 40,000 people were residing within the archaeological site and were involved with agricultural activities. The people are mostly migrants from Comilla, Rangpur,
Tangail Tangail (, ) is a city of Tangail District in central Bangladesh. A significant city in Bangladesh, Tangail lies on the bank of the Louhajang River, northwest of Dhaka, the nation's capital. Etymology ''Tangail'' originates from the Beng ...
,
Mymensingh Mymensingh () is a metropolis, metropolitan city and capital of Mymensingh Division, Bangladesh. Located on the bank of the Old Brahmaputra River, Brahmaputra River, about north of the national capital Dhaka, it is a major financial center ...
districts as well as recent migrants from Jalpaiguri District of India. Archaeologists believe as the migrants lack close connection with the heritage of the area, they are least interested in its preservation and as such, their continuous habitation and agricultural activities have been causing significant damage to the site. Some community engagement programs have been arranged in the area by archaeologists to build mass-awareness about preserving the heritage of the site and protect it from further damage. A rock museum, the first of its kind in Bangladesh, was established at Panchargarh Government Women's College, displaying different artifacts discovered from Bhitargarh. In 2016, a seminar was arranged at Bangladesh National Museum in
Dhaka Dhaka ( or ; , ), List of renamed places in Bangladesh, formerly known as Dacca, is the capital city, capital and list of cities and towns in Bangladesh, largest city of Bangladesh. It is one of the list of largest cities, largest and list o ...
on the preservation efforts for Bhitargarh archaeological site, attended by then
Finance minister A ministry of finance is a ministry or other government agency in charge of government finance, fiscal policy, and financial regulation. It is headed by a finance minister, an executive or cabinet position . A ministry of finance's portfoli ...
of Bangladesh, Abul Maal Abdul Muhith as the chief guest. An allocation of 20 crore BDT was demanded and a permanent custodian office was recommended to establish at the site for its preservation.


See also

* Mahasthangarh, another ancient city in the region * Varendra * Pundravardhana


References


External links

* , short documentary by '' The Daily Star'' {{Ancient-Medieval sites in Bengal Archaeological sites in Bangladesh Former populated places in Bangladesh Panchagarh District Forts in Bangladesh