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Assateague Island is a long barrier island located off the eastern coast of the Delmarva Peninsula facing the
Atlantic Ocean The Atlantic Ocean is the second-largest of the world's five oceans, with an area of about . It covers approximately 20% of Earth#Surface, Earth's surface and about 29% of its water surface area. It is known to separate the "Old World" of Afr ...
. The northern two-thirds of the island is in
Maryland Maryland ( ) is a U.S. state, state in the Mid-Atlantic (United States), Mid-Atlantic region of the United States. It shares borders with Virginia, West Virginia, and the District of Columbia to its south and west; Pennsylvania to its north; ...
while the southern third is in
Virginia Virginia, officially the Commonwealth of Virginia, is a state in the Mid-Atlantic and Southeastern regions of the United States, between the East Coast of the United States, Atlantic Coast and the Appalachian Mountains. The geography an ...
. The Maryland section contains the majority of Assateague Island National Seashore and Assateague State Park. The Virginia section contains Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge and a one-mile stretch of land containing the lifeguarded recreational beach and interpretive facilities managed by the
National Park Service The National Park Service (NPS) is an List of federal agencies in the United States, agency of the Federal government of the United States, United States federal government within the United States Department of the Interior, U.S. Department of ...
(or NPS). It is best known for its herds of feral horses, pristine beaches and the
Assateague Light Assateague Light is the lighthouse located on the southern end of Assateague Island off the coast of the Virginia Eastern Shore, United States. The lighthouse is located within the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge and can be accessed by r ...
house. The island also contains numerous marshes, bays, and coves, including Toms Cove. Bridge access for cars is possible from both Maryland and Virginia, though no road runs the full north/south length of the island.


History

Like all barrier islands, Assateague has changed in form over the years. The structure of barrier islands is determined by movement of sand in the littoral zone, the portion of the ocean closest to the seaward side of the island. At one time, the island was connected to the lowest point of Fenwick Island. However, the 1933 Chesapeake–Potomac hurricane created an inlet south of Ocean City, Maryland.Williams, Jeff. "USGS Research Contributes to Assateague Island Restoration—Mitigating 70 Years of Coastal Erosion Due to Ocean City Inlet Jetties". ''Sound Waves'' November, 2002. Accessed online December 3, 2010.
/ref> This inlet separated the two landforms. Normally, it would have silted back due to the littoral drift that ran from north to south. However, after the storm, between 1933 and 1935 a permanent system of artificial jetties was built to preserve the inlet as a navigation channel. As a result, the island has drifted considerably westward, and the two landmasses are now over apart. While this process has benefitted Ocean City, creating wider beaches and better fishing access, it caused erosion problems on Assateague. Between 1933 and the early 1960s, federal interest in creating a national seashore on the island alternated with periodic pushes for development. In 1950, a 15-mile section of the Maryland side of Assateague was plotted for development, and a paved road, Baltimore Boulevard, was constructed to traverse the new development. The
Ash Wednesday Storm of 1962 Ash or ashes are the solid remnants of fires. Specifically, ''ash'' refers to all non-aqueous, non-gaseous residues that remain after something burns. In analytical chemistry, to analyse the mineral and metal content of chemical samples, ash is ...
destroyed or covered most of Baltimore Boulevard, and many of the structures on the island were destroyed. Although some private landowners on the island supported re-development, by this time the state of Maryland generally supported a national seashore and legislation was introduced in the United States Congress. After Congressional efforts did not produce final legislation in 1964, new legislation in 1965 was successful and Assateague Island National Seashore was formed.Mackintosh, Barry. "Assateague Island administrative history" History Division, National Park Service. 1982. Accessed December 3, 2010


Parks and refuge

The entirety of Assateague Island is owned and operated by three different agencies: the NPS,
Maryland State Parks This list of Maryland state parks includes the state parks and state battlefields listed in the Maryland Department of Natural Resources's current acreage report. Generally, the Maryland Park Service, a unit of and under the authority of the Mar ...
, and United States Fish and Wildlife Service. All of the land on the island north of the Maryland-Virginia state line is the Assateague Island National Seashore, with the exception of the smaller Assateague State Park. The national seashore was established in 1965 to preserve the barrier island and surrounding waters, and provide recreational opportunities. All of the island south of the state border in Virginia is the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, with the exception of a one-mile stretch of land including the recreational beach and interpretive facilities managed by the NPS. The Refuge was established in 1943 to provide habitat for migratory birds, primarily snow geese. The U.S. Geological Survey has initiated studies aimed at mitigating the potential sea-level rise on this barrier island complex.


Human use of the island

The National Park Service allows off-road vehicles with permits in certain areas. Car camping sites are available in both the National Seashore and Assateague State Park by reservation. Backcountry sites are also available from the National Seashore. There is no camping available from the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge. Pets are prohibited in all areas except certain parts of the National Seashore and parts of the state park. Kayak touring is a popular way to see the wildlife, especially on the calmer bay side. Summer months are known for heavy mosquito populations, particularly on the bay side. Assateague State Park comprises almost and lies in Maryland within the National Seashore. The state park is the most developed area on the island with 350 campsites. Most of the water around the island is within the boundaries of the national seashore. The island has a land area of and has no resident population in either Maryland or Virginia, though a few retained property rights until 2006. These were mainly hunting camps.


Fauna

Large populations of birds inhabit the island, including American oystercatcher,
great blue heron The great blue heron (''Ardea herodias'') is a large wading bird in the heron family Ardeidae, common near the shores of open water and in wetlands over most of North America and Central America, as well as the Caribbean and the Galápagos ...
, and snowy egret. There are over 320 species that are known to inhabit the island during some portion of the year. These include gulls, terns, and other shorebirds along with raptors, waterbirds, and waterfowl. The
piping plover The piping plover (''Charadrius melodus'') is a small sand-colored, sparrow-sized shorebird that nests and feeds along coastal sand and gravel beaches in North America. The adult has yellow-orange-red legs, a black band across the forehead from ...
is a threatened species that nests on Assateague. The feral horse population of Assateague Island is alternately known as the Assateague horse in Maryland and the Chincoteague Pony in Virginia. This distinction, made both on per-breed and per-individual basis, is sometimes a matter of disagreement. The traditional definition of a horse or a pony is based on whether the animal in question falls over or under . The equines on the island tend to be under 14.2, but have a horse
phenotype In genetics, the phenotype () is the set of observable characteristics or traits of an organism. The term covers the organism's morphology or physical form and structure, its developmental processes, its biochemical and physiological prop ...
. It is argued that their relatively small size is primarily due to environmental, rather than genetic conditions. The National Park Service provides information about these animals through brochures and the internet. The Maryland and Virginia horses are kept apart by fencing at the border between the two states. Though commonly called "wild," these horses had domesticated ancestors. Legend states their ancestors were survivors of a Spanish galleon that shipwrecked along the coast, and DNA evidence indicates the modern population includes the closest living descendants of Spanish horses brought to the Americas in the early 1500s. Previously, it was suggested the horses originated from late 17th century mainland owners who brought their horses to the barrier islands to avoid fencing laws and taxation. When excess numbers are removed from the island and they are placed into human ownership, they adapt quickly to domestication. Made famous by Marguerite Henry in her children's book '' Misty of Chincoteague'', the animals are popular tourist attractions and subjects for photography. The Maryland horses are owned and managed by the NPS, who have carefully followed the population over generations. In Virginia, the Chincoteague ponies are owned by the
Chincoteague Volunteer Fire Company The Chincoteague Fire Department is a historic United States, U.S. building located at 4026/4028 Main Street, Chincoteague, Virginia, Chincoteague Island, Virginia. This building was initially constructed in 1930 and expanded in 2019 The Chinco ...
. Once a year in July, the local "salt water cowboys" round them up and sort a number of animals to be removed from the island, which are put up for auction on Pony Penning Day. To keep their numbers under control on the Maryland side, a federal contraceptive program has been in place since 1994.Feral Horse Management at Assateague Island National Seashore
/ref> In Virginia, the Pony Penning Days auction keeps the horse population at levels required by agreement with the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge.


Climate

Assateague Island has a humid subtropical climate and is the only part of Maryland with the southern tip of the Delmarva peninsula in hardiness Zone 8a.


Gallery

File:A deer walks along the Snow Goose Pool in the Assateague Island National Seashore.jpg, A deer walks along the Snow Goose Pool in the Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge, Chincoteague, Virginia, 2006-07-27 File:Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge 1.jpg, Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge with lighthouse in distance File:Assateague Island ASIS2576.jpg, Assateague Island waterways File:Assateague Island horses August 2009 4.jpg, Humans and horses are often brought into proximity on the island. File:Egrets-assateague.jpg, Egrets in Assateague's marshes File:Assateagueponies.jpg, Feral horses on Assateague Island File:Assateague Island ASIS4010.jpg, Deer on Assateague File:Chincoteague ponies by Bonnie Gruenberg5.jpg, Saltwater cowboys round up ponies on Assateague and herd them down the beach at sunrise. File:Chincoteague Pony swim by Bonnie Gruenberg.jpg, Swimming from Assateague for Pony Penning Day on Chincoteague File:Snow on the Dunes.jpg, Winter 2022 on Assateague Island File:Winter scene on Assateague Island.jpg, Snow blankets Assateague Island in January 2022 File:Winter landscape on Assateague.jpg, A winter scene on Assateague Island in January 2022


References


External links

* *
Assateague Island National SeashoreAssateague State ParkAssateague photos
* Philip E. Hartman papers at the
University of Maryland library The University of Maryland Libraries is the largest university library in the Washington, D.C. - Baltimore area. The university's library system includes eight libraries: six are located on the College Park campus, while the Severn Library, an of ...
contain letters, reports, and publications, which document environmental activities relating to Assateague Island. {{authority control Barrier islands of Maryland Barrier islands of Virginia Islands of Accomack County, Virginia Landforms of Worcester County, Maryland Beaches of Maryland Beaches of Virginia Tourist attractions in Accomack County, Virginia Tourist attractions in Worcester County, Maryland