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Raising Card
A raising card is used in the process of gigging, or producing the nap of cloth. Originally, only woolen cloth was raised, but now gigging is used on rayon, silk, and cotton fabrics to create a soft, lustrous nap. Raising is one of the last steps in the finishing process for cloth. It was first done using the dried fruit pod of a teasel ''Dipsacus'' is a genus of flowering plant in the family Caprifoliaceae. The members of this genus are known as teasel, teazel or teazle. The genus includes about 15 species of tall herbaceous biennial plants (rarely short-lived perennial plants ... plant, then technology moved on and raising cards were created. A raising card is a brush with metal bristles, similar to hand cards and to the original teasel pod. The process was mechanized during the industrial revolution, and the raising machine (the gig-mill) looks and works much like the large carding machines, in that it has a large main roller with several small ones positioned around ...
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Dipsacus Fullonum MHNT
''Dipsacus'' is a genus of flowering plant in the family Caprifoliaceae. The members of this genus are known as teasel, teazel or teazle. The genus includes about 15 species of tall herbaceous biennial plants (rarely short-lived perennial plants) growing to tall. ''Dipsacus'' species are native to Europe, Asia and northern Africa. Etymology The genus name (''Dipsacus'') is derived from the Greek word for thirst (''dipsa'') and refers to the cup-like formation made where sessile leaves merge at the stem. The name ''teasel'' derives from words such as Old English ''tǣsl'', ''tǣsel''; relating to the verb "to tease" – the dried heads of the plant were once used in the textile industry to raise the nap on woolen cloth. Description Teasels are easily identified with their prickly stem and leaves, and the inflorescence of purple, dark pink, lavender or white flowers that form a head on the end of the stem(s). The inflorescence is ovoid, long and broad, with a basal whorl of ...
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Gig-mill
A gig-mill (gigging machine, napping machine) was a type of raising machine that used Teasel, teasels to produce a Nap (fabric), nap on cloth. Examples of the results of gigging are woolen fabrics such as Chinchilla (cloth), chinchilla, beaver cloth, and Melton (cloth), melton. The process involved gradual teasing of the surface to raise the nap. Spelling in some localities is "Gigg". Gigging Gigging was an old method of raising. As with flannelette, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teasels during ''gigging'' to elevate the surface fibers, providing hairiness and lustrous nap. The fabric gets a soft feel. Teasels from a plant, a thistle-like species, were once used to make it. These were fixed to a cylinder. Later, teasels were replaced by metallic wires similar to those used in carding machines. Napped fabrics "Napping", "raising" and "gigging" are synonymous terms. Napping is the process of brushing for raising the Nap (fabric), nap. The raising method is used to dr ...
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Nap (textile)
Primarily, nap is the raised (fuzzy) surface on certain kinds of cloth, such as velvet or moleskin. Nap can refer additionally to other surfaces that look like the surface of a napped cloth, such as the surface of a felt or beaver hat. Starting around the 14th century, the word referred originally to the roughness of woven cloth before it was sheared."nap". ''The Oxford English Dictionary''. 2nd ed. 1989. When cloth, especially woollen cloth, is woven, the surface of the cloth is not smooth, and this roughness is the nap. Generally the cloth is then "sheared" to create an even surface, and the nap is thus removed. A person who trimmed the surface of cloth with shears to remove any excess nap was known as a shearman. Nap typically has a direction in which it feels smoothest. In garments, nap direction is often matched across seams, because cloth will not only feel but look different depending on the direction of the nap. For this reason, sewing patterns frequently show the nap d ...
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Woolen
Woolen (American English) or woollen (Commonwealth English) is a type of yarn made from carded wool. Woolen yarn is soft, light, stretchy, and full of air. It is thus a good insulator, and makes a good knitting yarn. Woolen yarn is in contrast to worsted yarn, in which the fibers are combed to lie parallel rather than carded, producing a hard, strong yarn. Commercial manufacture The woolen and worsted process both require that the wool (and other similar animal fibres, cashmere, camel, etc.) be cleaned before mechanical processing. Woolen and worsted nomenclatures apply only to the textile processing of animal fibres, but it has become common to include fibre blends under these terms. The resultant fabrics will be classified as being either woolen or worsted, but this designation is assigned during fiber processing and yarn formation, not in the cloth or finished garment. A woven woolen fabric is one which is subjected to fabric finishing techniques designed to add a dir ...
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Rayon
Rayon, also called viscose and commercialised in some countries as sabra silk or cactus silk, is a semi-synthetic fiber made from natural sources of regenerated cellulose fiber, cellulose, such as wood and related agricultural products. It has the same molecular structure as cellulose. Many types and grades of viscose fibers and films exist. Some imitate the feel and texture of natural fibers such as silk, wool, cotton, and linen. The types that resemble silk are often called artificial silk. It can be woven or knit to make textiles for clothing and other purposes. Rayon production involves solubilizing cellulose to allow turning the fibers into required form. Three common solubilization methods are: * The Cuprammonium rayon, cuprammonium process (not in use today), using ammoniacal solutions of copper salts * The viscose process, the most common today, using alkali and carbon disulfide * The Lyocell process, using amine oxide, avoids producing neurotoxic carbon disulfide but is ...
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Silk
Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), cocoons. The best-known silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm ''Bombyx mori'' reared in captivity (sericulture). The shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular Prism (optics), prism-like structure of the silk fibre, which allows silk cloth to refract incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colors. Harvested silk is produced by several insects; but, generally, only the silk of various moth caterpillars has been used for textile manufacturing. There has been some research into other types of silk, which differ at the molecular level. Silk is mainly produced by the larvae of insects undergoing holometabolism, complete metamorphosis, but some insects, such as webspinners and Gr ...
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Cotton
Cotton (), first recorded in ancient India, is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus '' Gossypium'' in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure cellulose, and can contain minor percentages of waxes, fats, pectins, and water. Under natural conditions, the cotton bolls will increase the dispersal of the seeds. The plant is a shrub native to tropical and subtropical regions around the world, including the Americas, Africa, Egypt and India. The greatest diversity of wild cotton species is found in Mexico, followed by Australia and Africa. Cotton was independently domesticated in the Old and New Worlds. The fiber is most often spun into yarn or thread and used to make a soft, breathable, and durable textile. The use of cotton for fabric is known to date to prehistoric times; fragments of cotton fabric dated to the fifth millennium BC have been found in the Indus Valley civilizat ...
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Finishing (textiles)
In textile manufacturing, finishing refers to the processes that convert the woven or knitted cloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing the yarn or fabric to improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finish textile or clothing. The precise meaning depends on context. Fabric after leaving the loom or knitting machine is not readily useable. Called greige cloth at this stage, it contains natural and added impurities. Sometimes it is also processed at fiber or yarn stages of textile manufacturing. Grey fiber or yarn or fabric goes through a series of processes such as wet processing and finishing. Finishing is a broad range of physical and chemical treatments that complete one stage of textile manufacturing and may prepare for the next step, making the product more receptive to the next stage of manufacturing. Finishing adds value to the product and makes it more attractive, useful, and functional for the end-u ...
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Teasel
''Dipsacus'' is a genus of flowering plant in the family Caprifoliaceae. The members of this genus are known as teasel, teazel or teazle. The genus includes about 15 species of tall herbaceous biennial plants (rarely short-lived perennial plants) growing to tall. ''Dipsacus'' species are native to Europe, Asia and northern Africa. Etymology The genus name (''Dipsacus'') is derived from the Greek word for thirst (''dipsa'') and refers to the cup-like formation made where Sessility (botany), sessile leaves merge at the stem. The name ''teasel'' derives from words such as Old English ''tǣsl'', ''tǣsel''; relating to the verb "to tease" – the dried heads of the plant were once used in the textile industry to raise the nap on woolen cloth. Description Teasels are easily identified with their prickly stem and leaves, and the inflorescence of purple, dark pink, lavender or white flowers that form a head on the end of the stem(s). The inflorescence is ovoid, long and broad, wit ...
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Carding
In Textile manufacturing, textile production, carding is a mechanical process that disentangles, cleans and intermixes fibres to produce a continuous web or sliver (textiles), sliver suitable for subsequent processing. This is achieved by passing the fibres between differentially moving surfaces covered with "card clothing", a firm flexible material embedded with metal pins. It breaks up locks and unorganised clumps of fibre and then aligns the individual fibres to be parallel with each other. In preparing wool fibre for Spinning (textiles), spinning, carding is the step that comes after teasing. The word is derived from the Latin meaning thistle or Dipsacus, teasel, as dried vegetable teasels were first used to comb the raw wool before technological advances led to the use of machines. Overview The ordered fibres can then be passed on after carding to other processes that are specific to the desired end use of the fibre: Cotton mill, Cotton, Batting (material), batting, felt, ...
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Meyers B13 S0606 B1
Meyers is a surname of English origin; many branches of the Meyers family trace their origins to Anglo-Saxon England. The name is derived from the Old French name ''Maire'', meaning an officer in charge of legal matters. The English surname may also mean "physician" (from ''mire'', Old French), or "marsh" (from , Old Norse). The name may also be an Anglicization of the Irish surname ó Meidhir or one of the Scottish surname MacMoyers Notable people *Abby Meyers (born 1999), American basketball player * Adam Meyers (1812–1875), lawyer and political figure in Canada West * Al Meyers (1908–1976), American pioneer aviator * Albert Meyers (1932–2007), American organic chemist * Albertus L. Meyers (1890–1979), American music conductor and cornet player *Ann Meyers (born 1955), American basketball player and sportscaster *Anne Akiko Meyers (born 1970), American concert violinist *Ari Meyers (born 1969), American actress, ''Kate & Allie'' * August Meyers (1864–1951), American p ...
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Gig-mill
A gig-mill (gigging machine, napping machine) was a type of raising machine that used Teasel, teasels to produce a Nap (fabric), nap on cloth. Examples of the results of gigging are woolen fabrics such as Chinchilla (cloth), chinchilla, beaver cloth, and Melton (cloth), melton. The process involved gradual teasing of the surface to raise the nap. Spelling in some localities is "Gigg". Gigging Gigging was an old method of raising. As with flannelette, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teasels during ''gigging'' to elevate the surface fibers, providing hairiness and lustrous nap. The fabric gets a soft feel. Teasels from a plant, a thistle-like species, were once used to make it. These were fixed to a cylinder. Later, teasels were replaced by metallic wires similar to those used in carding machines. Napped fabrics "Napping", "raising" and "gigging" are synonymous terms. Napping is the process of brushing for raising the Nap (fabric), nap. The raising method is used to dr ...
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