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Steve House (climber)
Steve House (born August 4, 1970) American mountain sport coach, author of four books, entrepreneur, retired professional alpinist and mountain guide, and winner of the Piolet d'Or#Pre-2007 (only one winner), 2006 Piolet d'Or. After a near fatal accident in 2010 he stopped hard climbing saying that he wanted to share all the training knowledge resources he had learned and that he wished he had in his youth. Shortly thereafter he began writing what became Training for the New Alpinism and now is the owner/manager of Uphill Athlete, providing training resources for mountain athletes including trail runners, alpinists, mountaineers, and skiers. Early life and education House earned a Bachelor of Science in ecology from The Evergreen State College in 1995. Climbing career Alpine climbing Reinhold Messner called Steve “The best climber in the world.” He has said that while he dislikes being called the best, he is happy to be noted as among the most influential climbers. A ...
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Alpinist
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly equipped teams who carry their equipment (e.g. no porters), and do all of the climbing (e.g. no sherpas or reserve teams). Alpinists face a wide range of serious risks in addition to the specific risks of rock, ice, and mixed climbing. This includes the risks of rockfalls (common with rock faces in alpine environments), avalanches (especially in couloirs), seracs and crevasses, violent storms hitting climbers on exposed mountain faces, altitude effects (dehydration, edema, fro ...
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Mark Twight
Mark Twight (born November 2, 1961) is an American climber, writer and the founder of Gym Jones. He rose to prominence as a mountaineer in the late 1980s and early 1990s with a series of difficult, dangerous alpine climbs in various ranges around the world. His radical, light-weight approach to alpinism has seen him regarded as an influential figure in the single-push movement. Climbing In 1988, Twight made the first ascent of "The Reality Bath" on the White Pyramid with Randy Rackliff, which was unrepeated until january 2025. The route has been described by Canadian Rockies guidebook author, Albi Sole as "so dangerous as to be of little value except to those suicidally inclined." In his own guidebook to the Rockies, Joe Josephson declared that "The Reality Bath is undoubtedly the most dangerous ice route in the range." That same season Twight established a speed record on the 925 meter-high "Slipstream" (2hrs 4min) on the east face of Snowdome. Twight's first ascents in the Mont ...
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1970 Births
Events January * January 1 – Unix time epoch reached at 00:00:00 UTC. * January 5 – The 7.1 1970 Tonghai earthquake, Tonghai earthquake shakes Tonghai County, Yunnan province, China, with a maximum Mercalli intensity scale, Mercalli intensity of X (''Extreme''). Between 10,000 and 14,621 are killed and 30,000 injured. * January 15 – After a 32-month fight for independence from Nigeria, Biafran forces under Philip Effiong formally surrender to General Yakubu Gowon, ending the Nigerian Civil War. February * February 1 – The Benavídez rail disaster near Buenos Aires, Argentina (a rear-end collision) kills 236. * February 10 – An avalanche at Val-d'Isère, France, kills 41 tourists. * February 11 – ''Ohsumi (satellite), Ohsumi'', Japan's first satellite, is launched on a Lambda-4 rocket. * February 22 – Guyana becomes a Republic within the Commonwealth of Nations. * February – Multi-business Conglomerate (company), conglomerate Virgin Group is founded as a ...
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Mount Alberta
Mount Alberta is a mountain located in the upper Athabasca River Valley of Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. J. Norman Collie named the mountain in 1898 after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta. It is the most difficult of the 11,000ers from a climbing point of view. Mount Alberta is the fifth-highest peak of the Canadian Rockies and the third highest in Alberta. It is situated southeast of the town of Jasper, just beyond the Northern extent of the Columbia Icefield. According to the Climber's Guide, Mount Alberta is "One of the finest peaks in the Rockies, a singular uplift that is difficult on all sides." __NOTOC__ Climbing ;History The first ascent was made in 1925 by members of the Japanese Alpine Club: S. Hashimoto, H. Hatano, T. Hayakawa, Y. Maki, Y.Mita, N. Okabe. The team was guided by Hans Fuhrer, H. Kohler and J. Weber, and the leader of the team was Maki. This team consisted of four Keio University alpine club members and two Gakushuin University alpine cl ...
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Colin Haley
Colin Haley (born 2 September 1984) is an American alpinist known for fast ascents of technical routes on mountains around the world. Haley is perhaps best known for his traverse of The Torres (Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron, and Aguja Standhardt), first with Rolando Garibotti in 2008, and subsequently with Alex Honnold - this time completing the traverse in under 24 hours. Personal life Haley holds a BSc. in Geology from the University of Washington. He began studying engineering, but soon switched to geology so he could "have more free time in his future". Haley grew up in Seattle, Washington. First ascents * In 2005, Haley completed a new route on Chiwawa Mountain called Intravenous (IV WI4+ M6) with Dave Burdick in his home state of Washington. *Haley, along with Jed Brown, was the first to climb the Entropy Wall (2,300m, VI 5.9 A2 WI4+) on Mount Moffit, in 2006. *In 2007, Haley and Kelly Cordes made the first complete ascent of Tiempos Perdidos, a route on the ...
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Mount Robson
Mount Robson is the most prominent mountain in North America's Rocky Mountain range; it is also the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain is located entirely within Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia, and is part of the Rainbow Range. Mount Robson is the second highest peak entirely in British Columbia, behind Mount Waddington in the Coast Range. The south face of Mount Robson is clearly visible from the Yellowhead Highway (Highway 16), and is commonly photographed along this route. Mount Robson was likely named after Colin Robertson, who worked for both the North West Company and the Hudson's Bay Company at various times in the early 19th century, though there was confusion over the name as many assumed it to have been named for John Robson, an early premier of British Columbia. The Texqa’kallt, a Secwepemc people and the earliest known inhabitants of the area, call it (striped rock), spelled in Dawson 1891 as , ''The Mountain of the S ...
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Vince Anderson (mountaineer)
Vince Anderson is an American professional mountaineer, writer and mountain guide company manager from Ridgway, Colorado. He and Steve House won the Piolet d'Or in 2006 for an alpine-style first ascent of the ''Central Pillar of the Rupal Face'', (4100m, M5 X, 5.9, WI4), September 1–8, 2005 on Nanga Parbat in northern Pakistan. Notable ascents *2003 ''Carte Blanche'', White cliffs of Dover, UK, with Yann Bonneville, Manu Ibarra and Jerome Blanc-Gras. *2005 ''Central Pillar of the Rupal Face'', (4100m, M5 X, 5.9, WI4), September 1–8, on Nanga Parbat in northern Pakistan with Steve House *2007 K7 West (6858m), Charakusa Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan FA of peak with Steve House and Marko Prezelj. *2008 House-Anderson (WI5+ M8 R/X, 1000m), North Face, Mount Alberta Mount Alberta is a mountain located in the upper Athabasca River Valley of Jasper National Park, Alberta, Canada. J. Norman Collie named the mountain in 1898 after Princess Louise Caroline Alberta. It is the most ...
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Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-administered Kashmir, Nanga Parbat is the westernmost major peak of the Himalayas, and thus in the traditional view of the Himalayas as bounded by the Indus and Yarlung Tsangpo/Brahmaputra rivers, it is the western anchor of the entire mountain range. Nanga Parbat is one of the 14 eight-thousanders. An immense, dramatic peak rising far above its surrounding terrain, it has the second-highest prominence among the 100 tallest mountains on Earth only behind Mount Everest. Nanga Parbat is notorious for being an extremely difficult climb, and has earned the nickname ''Killer Mountain'' for its high number of climber fatalities and pushing climbers to their limits. According to Guinness World Records, Nanga Parbat is the fastest growing mountai ...
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Marko Prezelj
Marko Prezelj (born 13 October 1965) is a Slovenian mountaineer and photographer. Prezelj received four Piolet d'Or awards. He won the inaugural "Oscar of mountaineering" in 1992 with Andrej Štremfelj for their new route on the south ridge of Kangchenjunga South (8476) in alpine style. The second he received in 2007 with Boris Lorenčič, for the first ascent of Chomolhari's northwest pillar in October 2006. Prezelj rejected his second award because of his concern about the dangers of a competition. In 2014 he received his third Piolet d'Or together with Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič for their first ascent of the north face of Hagshu in the Indian Himalaya. In 2016 he won his fourth Piolet d'Or (with Manu Pellissier, Urban Novak and Hayden Kennedy, for ''Light Before Wisdom'', in the East face of Cerro Kishtwar. Prezelj has a degree in Chemical Engineering and is an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide and climbing instructor. He is married and has two sons. Ascents (selectio ...
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Slovenia
Slovenia, officially the Republic of Slovenia, is a country in Central Europe. It borders Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the south and southeast, and a short (46.6 km) coastline within the Adriatic Sea to the southwest, which is part of the Mediterranean Sea. Slovenia is mostly mountainous and forested, covers , and has a population of approximately 2.1 million people. Slovene language, Slovene is the official language. Slovenia has a predominantly temperate continental climate, with the exception of the Slovene Littoral and the Julian Alps. Ljubljana, the capital and List of cities and towns in Slovenia, largest city of Slovenia, is geographically situated near the centre of the country. Other larger urban centers are Maribor, Ptuj, Kranj, Celje, and Koper. Slovenia's territory has been part of many different states: the Byzantine Empire, the Carolingian Empire, the Holy Roman Empire, the Kingdom of Hungary, the Republic of Venice ...
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Pakistan
Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of over 241.5 million, having the Islam by country#Countries, second-largest Muslim population as of 2023. Islamabad is the nation's capital, while Karachi is List of cities in Pakistan by population, its largest city and financial centre. Pakistan is the List of countries and dependencies by area, 33rd-largest country by area. Bounded by the Arabian Sea on the south, the Gulf of Oman on the southwest, and the Sir Creek on the southeast, it shares land borders with India to the east; Afghanistan to the west; Iran to the southwest; and China to the northeast. It shares a maritime border with Oman in the Gulf of Oman, and is separated from Tajikistan in the northwest by Afghanistan's narrow Wakhan Corridor. Pakistan is the site of History of Pakistan, several ancient cultures, including the ...
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