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Separate Reality (climbing Route)
''Separate Reality'' is a traditional climbing route in Yosemite National Park in California. The route is known for its exposed and dramatic crux that consists of a long crack in its horizontal roof. When it was first free-climbed by Ron Kauk in 1978, it was one of the first climbs in the world to have a grade of (it was temporarily downgraded one notch when a hold broke in the mid-1980s). In 1986, German climber Wolfgang Güllich free soloed the route, and the photographs by Austrian became iconic in rock climbing history. History The route was first redpointed by Ron Kauk in 1978 and given a difficulty grade of ; it was temporarily downgraded to when a block fell off near the lip, sometime in the mid-1980s, exposing a new handhold (but is today graded at 5.12a). At the time of Kauk's ascent, it was one of the first climbs in the world to have a grade of . Kauk named the route after the 1971 novel '' A Separate Reality'' by Carlos Castaneda. Kauk's partner, Lucy Par ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Free Solo
Free solo climbing, or free soloing, is a form of rock climbing where the climber (or ''free soloist'') climbs Solo climbing, solo (or alone) without Climbing rope, ropes or other Rock climbing equipment#Protection devices, protective equipment, using only their climbing shoes and their liquid chalk, climbing chalk. Free soloing is the most dangerous form of climbing, and, unlike bouldering, free soloists climb above safe heights, where a fall can be fatal. Though many climbers have free soloed Grade (climbing), climbing grades they are very comfortable on, only a tiny group free solo regularly, and at grades closer to the limit of their abilities. Some climbers' profiles have been increased by free soloing (e.g. Alex Honnold and John Bachar), but others question the ethics of this, and whether the risks they are undertaking should be encouraged and commercially rewarded. "Free solo" was originally a term of climber slang, but after the popularity of the 2018 Academy Awards, Os ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian climber, explorer, and author from the German-speaking province of South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, doing so without supplementary oxygen. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds and also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. He is widely considered to be the greatest mountaineer of all time. From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as a member of the European Parliament for north-east Italy, as a member of the Federation of the Greens. Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2010, he received the 2nd Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. In 2018, he received jointly with Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess of Asturias Award in the category ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Realization (climb)
''Realization'', also called ''Biographie'', is a circa sport climbing route on an overhang (climbing), overhanging limestone cliff on the southern face of Céüse mountain, near Gap, Hautes-Alpes, Gap and Sigoyer, Hautes-Alpes, Sigoyer, in France. After it was first climbed in 2001 by American climber Chris Sharma, it became the List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Redpointed by men, first rock climb in the world to have a consensus grade of . It is considered an history of rock climbing#2000s, historic and important route in rock climbing, and one of the most attempted climbs at its grade. History In 1989, French climber Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the entire circa 35 metre Pitch (climbing), pitch, and named it ''Biographie'' (he was not able to climb it). ''Biographie'' remained a long-standing open project, and in 1996, French climber freed the lower half of the route, added an anchor at his high-point and graded it at . Petit estimated that the remaining unclimbed ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Jumbo Love
''Jumbo Love'' is a very long sport climbing route, on remote limestone cliffs on Clark Mountain in the Mojave Desert. Bolted by American climber Randy Leavitt in the 1990s, he invited Chris Sharma to attempt it in 2007. When Sharma completed the first free ascent on September 11, 2008, the route became the first-ever rock climb in history to have a confirmed grade of , and it remains an important route in the history of rock climbing. The route has been repeated, and its grade confirmed, by a number of subsequent climbers, including French climber Seb Bouin, who made the fourth ascent on October 25, 2022. Bouin followed up his ascent by adding a direct start to the route on November 1, 2022, to create a route called ''Suprême Jumbo Love'', which at was at that time North America's hardest rock climbing route and only the sixth-ever 9b+ sport-climbing route in history. History The route was bolted by American Randy Leavitt in the late 1990s, who envisaged it being a 3 ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Silence (climb)
''Silence'' (also ''Project Hard''), is a severely overhang (climbing), overhanging sport climbing route in the granite Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger Municipality, Norway. When Czech climber Adam Ondra made the first free ascent on 3 September 2017, it became the List of first ascents (sport climbing)#Redpointed by men, first rock climb in the world to have a proposed climbing grade of , and it is an important route in history of rock climbing#2010s, rock climbing history. To complete the route, Ondra undertook specialist physical and mental training to overcome its severely overhanging terrain. , ''Silence'' remains unrepeated. History Ondra bolted the route in 2012–2013while he climbed ' at Flatanger, the world's first 9b+but dropped the project for a period saying: "I could sort of imagine doing the individual moves, but I could see that linking the whole sequence, with its 8C boulder, all the way from the ground just looked way too ridiculous". After retrying it in 2015 a ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Salathé Wall
The ''Salathé Wall'' is one of the original big wall climbing routes up El Capitan, a high granite monolith in Yosemite National Park. The ''Salathé Wall'' was named by Yvon Chouinard in honor of John Salathé, a pioneer of rock climbing in Yosemite. The route is recognized in the historic climbing text ''Fifty Classic Climbs of North America'' and is considered a classic around the world. Climbing history First ascents The first ascent was in 1961 by Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, and Chuck Pratt. After climbing about a quarter of the route, they retreated to re-supply, leaving four fixed ropes in place. Quickly returning, they jumared back up the ropes and totally committed to climbing the upper wall in a single push, which they did in 6 days using only 15 bolts total. The route was about 25% free climbing with sections of run-out at grade 5.9, and the rest being aid climbing which was also difficult at grade A4. A year later, Robbins and Frost returned and did the route ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
The Nose (El Capitan)
''The Nose'' is a big wall climbing route up El Capitan. Once considered impossible to climb, El Capitan is now the standard for big wall climbing. It is recognized in the historic climbing text ''Fifty Classic Climbs of North America'' and considered a classic around the world. El Capitan has two main faces, the Southwest (on the left when looking directly at the wall) and the Southeast. Between the two faces juts a massive wikt:prow, prow. While today there are numerous established routes on both faces, the most popular and historically famous route is ''The Nose'', which follows the massive prow. First ascents Once thought to be unclimbable, the high granite walls of Yosemite Valley began to see their first attempts and first ascents in the 1950s. One of the most coveted routes was the Regular Northwest Face of Half Dome, Northwest Face of Half Dome, and among those coveting it was Californian Warren Harding (climber), Warren Harding (Harding made an unsuccessful attempt on H ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Alex Honnold
Alex Honnold (born August 17, 1985) is an American rock climber best known for his Free solo climbing, free solo ascents of Big wall climbing, big walls. Honnold rose to worldwide fame in June 2017 when he became the first person to free solo a full route on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park (via the 2,900-foot route ''Freerider (climb), Freerider'' at Grade (climbing)#American YDS grade, 5.13a, the List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Free-soloed, first-ever big wall free solo ascent at that grade), a climb described in ''The New York Times'' as "one of the great athletic feats of any kind, ever." In 2015, he won a Piolet d'Or in alpine climbing with Tommy Caldwell for their completion of the enchainment (known as the ''Fitz Traverse'') of the Fitz Roy, Cerro Chaltén Group (or Fitzroy Group) in Patagonia over 5 days. Honnold is the author (with David Roberts (climber), David Roberts) of the memoir ''Alone on the Wall'' (2015) and the subject of the 2018 biographical docu ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Climbing (magazine)
''Climbing'' is a major US-based rock climbing magazine first published in 1970. In 2007, it was bought by Skram Media, the publisher of ''Urban Climber Magazine''. The headquarters of the magazine is in Boulder, Colorado. It is published nine times a year. Climbing was purchased by ''Outside'' in 2021. Golden Pitons Each year, ''Climbing'' gives out a number of awards, called the ''Golden Pitons''. Award categories include: Sport Climbing, Breakout Performance, Climber of the Year, Rusty Piton, Lifetime Achievement, Comeback, Alpine, Boldest Move, and Competition. See also * ''Alpinist'' magazine * ''Summit'' magazine * ''Rock & Ice ''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became e ...'' References External links * Online magazines published in the United States Spor ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
First Free Ascent
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains (e.g. the eight-thousanders) and climbing routes (e.g. the great north faces of the Alps) by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of aid climbing, and/or with large expedition style support teams that laid "siege" to the climb. As all the key tops were summited, the manner in which each top was reached became important, particularly the ability to complete the ascent without artificial aid, which is called free climbing. In free climbing, the term first free ascent (abbreviated FFA) is used where a mountain or climbing route is ascended without any artificial aid (devices for protection in the event of a fall could be used as long as they did not aid progression). Completing ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Dean Potter
Dean Spaulding Potter (April 14, 1972 – May 16, 2015) was an American free climber, alpinist, BASE jumper, and highliner. He completed many hard first ascents, free solo ascents, speed ascents, and enchainments in Yosemite National Park and Patagonia. He won the Laureus World Action Sportsperson of the Year in 2003. In 2015, he died in a wingsuit flying accident in Yosemite National Park. Early life Dean Potter was born in 1972 to an Army officer in a military hospital at Fort Leavenworth, Kansas and grew up in New Hampshire. He taught himself to climb when he was in 10th grade in southern New Hampshire. He attended the University of New Hampshire, where he rowed varsity crew. Potter quit college and pursued his passion for climbing. Climbing career Free solo Potter climbed many new routes and completed many solo ascents in Yosemite and Patagonia. He free-solo climbed a small part of El Capitan in Yosemite, where he pioneered a route he called ''Easy Rider'' by climbing ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
