Schwedenturm (rock)
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Schwedenturm (rock)
The Schwedenturm ("Sweden Tower") in East Germany is a 35-metre-high rock formation made of sandstone in the hills of Saxon Switzerland near the spa town of Rathen and the famous Bastei rocks. From the car park for the Bastei, a path runs towards Schwedenlöcher. The Schwedenturm is situated on the right just before the entrance to a narrow ravine. Because it lies in the Saxon Switzerland Climbing Region the free-standing pinnacle may be used for climbing. Currently, there are 14 different climbing routes up the rock. It was here that the first grade Xb route in the mountain range was successfully climbed, route 6 (''Versuch''), by Bernd Arnold. The Schwedenturm was first climbed in 1905 by Rudolf Fehrmann Rudolf Fehrmann (22 June 1886 – 1947) was a German climber. He was a pioneer rock climber at the Elbe Sandstone Mountains near Dresden. Climbing career He began climbing at the age of 17 and was soon at the leading edge of the fledgling sport. ... and his brother Arymund. ...
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2014 Schwedenturm Rathen
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Saxon Switzerland
Saxon Switzerland (, ) is a hilly climbing area and national park in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. It is located around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany, adjoining Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic. Together with the Czech part, the region is known as Saxon-Bohemian Switzerland. The administrative district for the area is Sächsische Schweiz-Osterzgebirge. The fortress of Königstein is a well-known landmark. Etymology The German name for Saxon Switzerland, ''Sächsische Schweiz'', appeared in the 18th century. Two Swiss artists, Adrian Zingg and Anton Graff, were appointed in 1766 to the Dresden Academy of Art. They felt the landscape was reminiscent of their homeland, the Swiss Jura, and reported in their exchange of letters on the difference between their homeland and "Saxon Switzerland". Previously, the Saxon part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains had merely been referred to as the ''Meißner Hochland'', ''Meißen Oberland'' or ...
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Spa Town
A spa town is a resort town based on a mineral spa (a developed mineral spring). Patrons visit spas to "take the waters" for their purported health benefits. Thomas Guidott set up a medical practice in the English town of Bath, Somerset, Bath in 1668. He became interested in the curative properties of the hot mineral waters there and in 1676 wrote ''A discourse of Bathe, and the hot waters there. Also, Some Enquiries into the Nature of the water''. This brought the purported health-giving properties of the waters to the attention of the aristocracy, who started to partake in them soon after. The term ''spa'' is used for towns or resorts offering hydrotherapy, which can include cold water or mineral water treatments and geothermal baths, and comes from the Belgian town Spa, Belgium, Spa. Spa towns by country Argentina *Termas de Rio Hondo *Presidencia Roque Sáenz Peña Australia There are mineral springs in the Central Highlands of Victoria. Most are in and around Daylesfo ...
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Rathen
Rathen is a village in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains, in Saxony, Germany, about southeast of Dresden. The village occupies both banks of the river Elbe and, as of 2020, has 339 inhabitants. Rathen is a popular tourist destination, the main sights are the Bastei cliffs, the Amselsee (a lake), and the outdoor theater ''"Felsenbühne Rathen"''. History Rathen was founded in the 13th century around 1261 as place for a castle fortress. During World War II, a subcamp of Flossenbürg concentration camp was located here. Tourism The state-recognised climatic spa of Rathen is not only the base for tours in the western part of Saxon Switzerland, but also for the world-famous Bastei (rock), Bastei rocks. Other popular destinations in the local Amselgrund valley are the lake of Amselsee and the Rathen Open Air Stage. There are a good 400 inhabitants on both sides of the Elbe, linked by the historic Rathen Ferry, which is a protected monument. In addition to the Old Mill of 1567, which ...
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Bastei (rock)
The Bastei is a rock formation rising above the Elbe River in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains of Germany. Reaching a height of above sea level, the jagged rocks of the Bastei were formed by water erosion over one million years ago. They are situated near Rathen, not far from Pirna southeast of the city of Dresden, and are the major landmark of the Saxon Switzerland National Park. They are also part of a climbing and hiking area that extends over the borders into the Bohemian Switzerland (Czech Republic). The Bastei has been a tourist attraction for over 200 years. In 1824, a wooden bridge was constructed to link several rocks for the visitors. This bridge was replaced in 1851 by the present Bastei Bridge made of sandstone. The rock formations and vistas have inspired numerous artists, among them Caspar David Friedrich (). The spa town of Rathen is the main base for visiting the Bastei; the town can be reached from Dresden by paddle steamer on the river Elbe. History The na ...
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Schwedenlöcher
The Schwedenlöcher is a gorge-like side valley of the Amselgrund near Rathen in Saxon Switzerland. History The deeply incised ravine was formed by the erosion of the soft sandstone. Its course follows the Elbe Sandstone Mountains#Geology, main direction of fissuring in the Elbe sandstone. Originally the Schwedenlöcher was an undeveloped gorge that was difficult to access and was known as the ''Blanker Grund''. When, during the Thirty Years' War, the village of Rathewalde to the north was destroyed by Swedish soldiers in August 1639, the peasants of the region fled into the wild gorge and carried their possessions to safety. The gorge served as a refuge during later conflicts, such as in 1706 during the Great Nordic War, in 1813 during the German Campaign of 1813, Wars of Liberation and in 1945 during the last days of the Second World War. In the 1780s, the first tracks were made in the Schwedenlöchern in order to extract timber. This is recalled by several dates chiselled ...
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Saxon Switzerland Climbing Region
Saxon Switzerland () is the largest and one of the best-known rock climbing regions in Germany, located in the Free State of Saxony. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland, but extends well beyond the territory of the National Park within it. It includes the western part of the Elbe Sandstone Mountains and is the oldest non-Alpine rock climbing region in Germany. Its history of climbing dates back to the first ascent in modern times of the Falkenstein by Bad Schandau gymnasts in 1864. Currently, there are over 1,100 peaks with more than 17,000 climbing routes in the Saxon Switzerland area. Climbing The climbing is characterized by a strong traditional climbing ethic and a number of peculiarities rarely found in other climbing regions, or at least not to the same extent. An exception are Czech sandstone climbing regions, where similar rules apply. Climbers must observe the Saxon Climbing Regulations, which were first formu ...
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Climbing Routes
A climbing route () is a path by which a Climbing, climber reaches the top of a mountain, a rock face or an ice-covered obstacle. The details of a climbing route are recorded in a climbing guidebook and/or in an online climbing-route database. Details recorded will include elements such as the type of climbing route (e.g. bouldering route, sport climbing route, traditional climbing route, ice climbing route, and alpine climbing route, etc.), the Grade (climbing), difficulty grade of the route–and beta (climbing), beta on its crux (climbing), crux(es)–and any risk or commitment grade, the length and number of pitch (climbing), pitches of the route, and the climbing equipment (e.g. climbing protection gear) that is needed to complete the route. There are definitions as to what is a valid ascent of a route (e.g. the redpoint (climbing), redpoint in rock climbing), and the class or style of ascent (e.g. onsighted, flash (climbing), flashed). The coveted first ascent (FA), first f ...
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Grade (climbing)
Many climbing routes have grades for the technical difficulty, and in some cases for the risks, of the route. The first ascent, first ascensionist can suggest a grade but it will be amended for the ''consensus view'' of subsequent ascents. While many countries with a tradition of climbing developed their own grading systems, a small number of grading systems have become internationally dominant for each type of climbing, and which has led to the standardization of grading worldwide. Over the years, grades have List of grade milestones in rock climbing, consistently risen in all forms of climbing, helped by improvements in climbing technique and climbing equipment, equipment. In free climbing (i.e. climbing rock routes with no aid), the most popular grading systems are the French numerical or sport system (e.g. f7c+), the American YDS system (e.g. 5.13a), and latterly the UIAA scale (e.g. IX+). These systems grade technical difficulty being the main focus of the lower-risk a ...
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Bernd Arnold
Bernd Arnold (born 28 February 1947) is a German rock climber and mountaineer. He is known for more than 900 first ascents in the East German Saxon Switzerland climbing region. During the 1970s and 1980s, he established most of the hardest routes in the region and became one of the most influential German climbers of his era. He is well-known for climbing barefoot, even on very hard routes. Climbing career His first remarkable ascent was the ''Route Zehn'' (VIIIc) at Meurerturm in 1966, when he was only 19 years old. In 1970 he climbed the ''Nordwand'' at the rock tower Schwager in the Schrammsteine area and achieved a difficulty of grade IXb. This might have been the hardest free climbing route in the world at the time. First ascents such as the ''Nonplusultra'' (IXb) at Mittlerer Torstein, ''Talseite'' (IXb) at Teufelsspitze, and ''Lineal'' (IXa) at Meurerturm followed. In 1977 Arnold was the first to climb grade IXc when he achieved his first ascent of ''Direkte Superlative'' ...
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Rudolf Fehrmann
Rudolf Fehrmann (22 June 1886 – 1947) was a German climber. He was a pioneer rock climber at the Elbe Sandstone Mountains near Dresden. Climbing career He began climbing at the age of 17 and was soon at the leading edge of the fledgling sport. He and Oliver Perry-Smith, an American college student and fellow climber living in Dresden, became as close as brothers and formed a team which pushed the limits of risk and difficulty on the steep sandstone spires, making many first ascents. Early on, Fehrmann exerted leadership in both climbing ethics and environmental protection. He imagined the purest of climbing routes as "great lines", ascending directly up steep faces and cracks and sometimes presenting considerable difficulties, and he encouraged the use of rope-soled slippers and a minimum of metal protective devices in order to avoid destroying the fragile rock. In 1903, Fehrmann began climbing on the Schrammsteine rocks. Before long, he became one of the best mountain climbers ...
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Rock Formations Of Saxon Switzerland
Rock most often refers to: * Rock (geology), a naturally occurring solid aggregate of minerals or mineraloids * Rock music, a genre of popular music Rock or Rocks may also refer to: Places United Kingdom * Rock, Caerphilly, a location in Wales * Rock, Cornwall, a village in England * Rock, County Tyrone, a village in Northern Ireland * Rock, Devon, a location in England * Rock, Neath Port Talbot, a location in Wales * Rock, Northumberland, a village in England * Rock, Somerset, a location in England * Rock, West Sussex, a hamlet in Washington, England * Rock, Worcestershire, a village and civil parish in England United States * Rock, Kansas, an unincorporated community * Rock, Michigan, an unincorporated community * Rock, West Virginia, an unincorporated community * Rock, Rock County, Wisconsin, a town in southern Wisconsin * Rock, Wood County, Wisconsin, a town in central Wisconsin Elsewhere * Corregidor, an island in the Philippines also known as "The Rock" * Jamaica, an ...
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