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Meisen
is a type of silk fabric traditionally produced in Japan; it is durable, hard-faced, and somewhat stiff, with a slight sheen, and slubbiness is deliberately emphasised. was first produced in the late 19th century, and became widely popular during the 1920s and 30s (late- Taishō to early- Shōwa period), when it was mass-produced and ready-to-wear kimono began to be sold in Japan. is commonly dyed using (Japanese ikat) techniques, and features what were then overtly modern, non-traditional designs and colours. remained popular through to the 1950s. The fibre used for is staple fibre (often silk noil), degummed and sized with soy milk, which increases durability and increases the depth and brilliance of the dye colours. Between 1910 and 1925 (late Taishō to Shōwa period), the ability to spin as well as weave noil by machine (see ) was developed into mass production. Prices dropped drastically, and silk cloth and clothing was suddenly within the budget of most Japane ...
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Kasuri
is the Japanese term for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric, typically referring to fabrics produced within Japan using this technique. It is a form of ikat dyeing, traditionally resulting in patterns characterized by their blurred or brushed appearance. The warp and weft threads are resist-dyed in specific patterns prior to dyeing, with sections of the warp and weft yarns tightly wrapped with thread to protect them from the dye. When woven together, the undyed areas interlace to form patterns, with many variations –including highly pictographic and multi-colored results – possible to achieve. patterns may be applied to either the warp or the weft, or to both in order to create a resulting woven pattern, with the cloth classified using different names depending on the method used. Though commonly confused, the terms and are not interchangeable. While refers to a dyeing technique, , literally translating ...
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Tanmono
A is a bolt of traditional Japanese narrow-loomed cloth. It is used to make traditional Japanese clothes, textile room dividers, sails, and other traditional cloth items. ( is a placeholder name) are woven in units of , a traditional unit of measurement for cloth roughly analogous to the bolt, about by about . One kimono takes one () of cloth to make. are woven in the narrow widths most ergonomic for a single weaver (at a handloom without a flying shuttle). Fibers may be woven of a variety of fibers, including silk, wool, hemp, linen and cotton. Polyester is also popular, as it is easy to wash at home. In the Jomon period (8000–300BC) people made twined textiles from a variety of bast fibers from wild plants. Wild fibers () include the inner bark of wild trees or shrubs (), and grass fibers (). Between the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC, immigrants from the mainland began using the domesticated long-stapled ramie plant. Silk was also known at this time, but used ...
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Kasuri
is the Japanese term for fabric that has been woven with fibers dyed specifically to create patterns and images in the fabric, typically referring to fabrics produced within Japan using this technique. It is a form of ikat dyeing, traditionally resulting in patterns characterized by their blurred or brushed appearance. The warp and weft threads are resist-dyed in specific patterns prior to dyeing, with sections of the warp and weft yarns tightly wrapped with thread to protect them from the dye. When woven together, the undyed areas interlace to form patterns, with many variations –including highly pictographic and multi-colored results – possible to achieve. patterns may be applied to either the warp or the weft, or to both in order to create a resulting woven pattern, with the cloth classified using different names depending on the method used. Though commonly confused, the terms and are not interchangeable. While refers to a dyeing technique, , literally translating ...
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Slubbed
A slub in textiles production refers to thickened areas of a fiber or yarn. Slubbed or slubby fabric is woven from slubby yarn (yarn with a very variable diameter). Both high and low slubbiness may be sought. Slubs in spun fibers may be produced deliberately by varying spinning tension (see Novelty yarns#Slub). They are also produced when short, staple fibers are spun into a single yarn. Slubs may be valued or deliberately produced for aesthetic effect, but they may also be regarded as a defect caused by either uneven spinning or using low-grade, lumpy or short-staple fiber. Types Slubby cotton fabric includes: *Madras (cloth), woven from short-staple cotton *Some denim used for jeans; the slubs cause the cloth to fade unevenly, in a pattern called Linen is often slubbed. Wool fabrics, such as tweeds, may also be slubbed. Silk is a filament fiber, and the only natural fiber type to come in filament length naturally (strands can be over 1.5 km long). However, some silk fi ...
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Twist Per Inch
TPI (twists per inch or turns per inch) is a term used in the textile industry. It measures how much twist a yarn has,Kadolph, Sara J., ed.: ''Textiles'', 10th edition, Pearson/Prentice-Hall, 2007, , p. 197 and can be calculated by counting the number of twists in an inch of yarn. Variation per yarn Twist is needed in yarn to hold the fibres together, and is added in the spinning (textiles), spinning and plying processes. The amount of twist varies depending on the fibre, thickness of yarn, preparation of fibre, manner of spinning, and the desired result. Fine wool and silk generally use more twist than coarse wool, short staple (wool), staples more than long, thin more than thick, and short draw (spinning), short drawn more than long draw (spinning), long drawn. The amount of twist in a yarn helps to define the style of yarn – a yarn with a lot of air such as a woollen-spun yarn will have much less twist than a yarn with little air such as a worsted-spun yarn. The amount of twi ...
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Warp Thread
Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is drawn through and inserted over and under the warp. A single thread of the weft crossing the warp is called a ''pick''. Terms vary (for instance, in North America, the weft is sometimes referred to as the ''fill'' or the ''filling yarn'').Barber (1991), p. 79 Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a ''warp end'' or ''end''.Burnham (1980), pp. 170, 179 Inventions during the 18th century spurred the Industrial Revolution, with the "picking stick" and the "flying shuttle" ( John Kay, 1733) speeding up the production of cloth. The power loom patented by Edmund Cartwright in 1785 allowed sixty picks per minute. Etymology The word ''weft'' derives from the Old English word ''wefan'', to weave. ''Warp'' means "that which is thrown away" ...
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Warp-faced
Warp and weft are the two basic components used in weaving to turn thread or yarn into fabric. The lengthwise or longitudinal warp yarns are held stationary in tension on a frame or loom while the transverse weft (sometimes woof) is drawn through and inserted over and under the warp. A single thread of the weft crossing the warp is called a ''pick''. Terms vary (for instance, in North America, the weft is sometimes referred to as the ''fill'' or the ''filling yarn'').Barber (1991), p. 79 Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a ''warp end'' or ''end''.Burnham (1980), pp. 170, 179 Inventions during the 18th century spurred the Industrial Revolution, with the "picking stick" and the "flying shuttle" ( John Kay, 1733) speeding up the production of cloth. The power loom patented by Edmund Cartwright in 1785 allowed sixty picks per minute. Etymology The word ''weft'' derives from the Old English word ''wefan'', to weave. ''Warp'' means "that which is thrown away" (O ...
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Traditional Colors Of Japan
The traditional colors of Japan are a collection of colors traditionally used in Japanese art, literature, textiles such as kimono, and other Japanese arts and crafts. History The traditional colors of Japan trace their historical origins to the Twelve Level Cap and Rank System which was established in 603 by Prince Shōtoku and based on the five Chinese elements. In this system, rank and social hierarchy were displayed and determined by certain colors. Colors known as were strictly reserved for the robes of the highest ranking government officials; for example, the color was used as the color for the robes of and use by any other lower rank was prohibited. Colors known as were permitted for use by the common people. Most names of colors originate from the names of plants, flowers, and animals that bore or resembled them. Certain colors and dyeing techniques have been used since the Asuka period, while others had been developed as late as the Meiji period when synthetic d ...
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Meiji-period Clothing
Japanese clothing during the Meiji period (1867–1912) saw a marked change from the preceding Edo period (1603–1867), following the final years of the Tokugawa shogunate between 1853 and 1867, the Convention of Kanagawa in 1854 – which, led by Matthew C. Perry, forcibly opened Japanese ports to American vessels, thus ending Japan's centuries-long policy of isolation – and the Meiji Restoration in 1868, which saw the feudal shogunate dismantled in favour of a Western-style modern empire. During the Meiji period, Western-style fashion () was first adopted most widely by Japanese men in uniformed, governmental or otherwise official roles, as part of a drive towards industrialisation and a perception of modernity. Western-style uniform was first introduced as a part of government uniform in 1872, and quickly became associated with elitism, modernity, and money. The Western trends adopted by the government were not popular with the public at large. While those in employed ...
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