Expedition Climbing
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Expedition Climbing
Expedition climbing (or expedition-style or pejoratively siege climbing), is a type of mountaineering that uses a series of well-stocked camps on the mountain leading to the summit (e.g. Base Camp, Camp 1, Camp 2, etc.), that are supplied by teams of porter (carrier), mountain porters. In addition, expedition climbing can also employ multiple 'climbing teams' to work on the climbing route—not all of whom are expected to make the summit—and allows the use of supports such as fixed ropes, Ladder (mountaineering), aluminum ladders, High altitude breathing apparatus, supplementary oxygen, and sherpa people, sherpa climbers. By its nature, expedition climbing often requires weeks to complete a given climbing route, and months of pre-planning given the greater scale of people and equipment that need to be coordinated for the climb. 'Expedition style' climbing is in direct contrast to 'alpine style' climbing, which involves a single small fast-moving summit climbing team that carrie ...
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High Altitude Breathing Apparatus
High altitude breathing apparatus is a breathing apparatus which allows a person to breathe more effectively at an altitude where the partial pressure of oxygen in the ambient atmospheric air is insufficient for the task or to sustain consciousness or human life over the long or short term. High altitude breathing sets may be classified by type in several ways: * by application: aviation breathing apparatus and mountaineering breathing apparatus. * by breathing gas source: self-contained gas supply, or remotely supplied gas, * by breathing circuit type: open, semi-closed, or closed circuit, * by gas supply type: constant flow, supply on demand, or supplemental, * by ventilatory driving force: the breathing effort of the user, or mechanical work from an external source, * by gas mixture: air, oxygen enriched, or pure oxygen. The user respiratory interface is the delivery system by which the breathing apparatus guides the breathing gas flow to and from the user. Some form of face ...
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Climbing (magazine)
''Climbing'' is a major US-based rock climbing magazine first published in 1970. In 2007, it was bought by Skram Media, the publisher of ''Urban Climber Magazine''. The headquarters of the magazine is in Boulder, Colorado. It is published nine times a year. Climbing was purchased by '' Outside'' in 2021. Golden Pitons Each year, ''Climbing'' gives out a number of awards, called the ''Golden Pitons''. Award categories include: Sport Climbing, Breakout Performance, Climber of the Year, Rusty Piton, Lifetime Achievement, Comeback, Alpine, Boldest Move, and Competition. See also * ''Alpinist'' magazine * ''Summit'' magazine * ''Rock & Ice ''Rock & Ice'' is a magazine published by Outside focusing on rock and ice climbing. The first issue came out in March 1984. The first publisher was Neal Kaptain. George Bracksieck worked for him, beginning in January 1984, and the two became e ...'' References External links * Online magazines published in the United States Spo ...
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Himalayan Journal
The ''Himalayan Journal'' is the annual magazine of the Himalayan Club in India. History and profile The magazine was established in 1929. The first editor-in-chief was the English geographer Kenneth Mason. He was a surveyor operating from Shimla Shimla, also known as Simla ( the official name until 1972), is the capital and the largest city of the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh. In 1864, Shimla was declared the summer capital of British India. After independence, the city .... Mason later continued editing from England. Subsequent editors were C.W.F. Noyce, H.W. Tobin, and Trevor Braham. In 1960, K. Biswas took over as the first Indian editor. From 1969 to 1979 and from 1987 to 1989 Soli S. Mehta was editor. Harish Kapadia was editor from 1980 to 1986 and again from 1990 to 2010. Since 2014, Nandini Purandare has been the editor, the first woman to hold this post. Editors The following persons have been editor-in-chief of the magazine: * Kenneth Mason (1 ...
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Piolet D'Or
An ice axe is a multi-purpose hiking and climbing tool used by mountaineers in both the ascent and descent of routes that involve snow or ice covered (e.g. ice climbing or mixed climbing) conditions. Its use depends on the terrain: in its simplest role it is used like a walking stick, with the mountaineer holding the head in the center of their uphill hand. On steep terrain it is swung by its handle and embedded in snow or ice for security and an aid to traction. It can also be buried pick down, the rope tied around the shaft to form a secure anchor on which to bring up a second climber, or buried vertically to form a stomp belay. The adze is used to cut footholds, as well as scoop out compacted snow to bury the axe as a belay anchor. History The ice axe of today has its roots in the long-handled alpenstock that came before it. Not only is an ice axe used as a climbing aid, but also as a means of self-arrest in the event of a slip downhill. Most ice axes meet design an ...
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First Ascent
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in climbing guidebook, guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused on reaching the tops of iconic mountains (e.g. the eight-thousanders) and climbing routes (e.g. the great north faces of the Alps) by whatever means possible, often using considerable amounts of aid climbing, and/or with large expedition style support teams that laid "siege" to the climb. As all the key tops were summited, the manner in which each top was reached became important, particularly the ability to complete the ascent without artificial aid, which is called free climbing. In free climbing, the term first free ascent (abbreviated FFA) is used where a mountain or climbing route is ascended without any artificial aid (devices for climbing protection, protection in the event of a fall could be used as long as the ...
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Piolets D'Or
The Piolets d'Or (, "Golden Ice Axe") is an annual mountaineering and alpine climbing award organized by the (GHM), and previously with co-founder ''Montagnes Magazine'', since its founding in 1992. Golden ice axes are presented to the annual winners at a weekend awards festival based on their achievements in the previous year. It is considered mountaineering's highest honor and is referred to as the "Oscars of mountaineering". The Piolets have progressed from being a competition-like single-award event (Le Piolet d'Or) into a broader celebration of mountaineering and alpinism, with several awards made (Les Piolets d'Or). After a crisis in 2008, the Charter for the awards was rewritten to focus on the style and innovation of the nominations, respect for the mountain, environment, and future climbing generations, and to increase the independence and transparency of the award process; the official name was also changed to the plural. History At the start of the 1990s, it was di ...
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Joe Tasker
Joe Tasker (12 May 1948 – 17 May 1982) was a British Climbing, climber, active during the late 1970s and early 1980s. He died while climbing Mount Everest. Early life Born into a Roman Catholic family in 1948, Tasker was the second of ten children and spent his early childhood in Port Clarence, Middlesbrough. The family later moved to Billingham and Joe attended Ushaw College, Ushaw Seminary, County Durham between the ages of 13 and 20, in training to become a Catholic priest. Fascinated by ''The Climb Up to Hell'' by Jack Olsen, a book recounting harrowing tales of tragic attempts to climb the North face (Eiger), North Face of the Eiger, he started climbing in a nearby quarry in 1966. After leaving the seminary he first worked as a dustman before studying sociology at Manchester University, where he was an enthusiastic participant in the Student Union's gypsy liaison and soup-run groups. He improved his climbing skills during this time, graduating from rock climbing in B ...
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Peter Boardman
Peter Boardman (25 December 1950 – 17 May 1982) was an English mountaineer and author. He is best known for a series of bold and lightweight expeditions to the Himalayas, often in partnership with Joe Tasker, and for his contribution to mountain literature. Boardman and Tasker died on the North East Ridge of Mount Everest in 1982. The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature was established in their memory. Early life and education Boardman was born in Stockport, Cheshire, England, the youngest son of Alan Howe Boardman (1920–1979) and Dorothy Boardman (1923–2007). He attended Stockport Grammar School from 1956 to 1969, going on school trips to Corsica in 1964 and 1965, and to the Swabian Alps in 1966. Boardman first began climbing with school friends at Windgather Rocks in the Peak District National Park. After joining the Mynydd Climbing Club in 1966, Boardman's climbing progressed quickly and he went on to climb in the Pennine Alps in 1968. From 1969 to 1972, B ...
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Doug Scott
Douglas Keith Scott (29 May 19417 December 2020) was an English Mountaineering, mountaineer and climbing author, noted for being on the team that made the 1975 British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition, first ascent of the south-west face of Mount Everest on 24 September 1975. In receiving one of mountaineering's highest honours, the Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award, his personal style and his climbs were described as "visionary". Over the years he was on 40 expeditions to the high mountains of Asia, during which he made some 30 first ascents. In 2020 he was diagnosed with cancer, and he died of the disease in December 2020. Early life Scott was born in Nottingham, England, and was the eldest of three sons. Scott would later discover that his mother was born at almost the exact same time as famed mountaineer Edmund Hillary, which Scott felt was an uncanny coincidence. Scott was educated in Nottingham at Cottesmore Secondary Modern and Mundella Grammar School, Mund ...
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Peter Habeler
Peter Habeler (born 22 July 1942) is an Austrian mountaineer. He was born in Mayrhofen, Austria. He developed an interest in mountain climbing at age six.http://www.everesthistory.com/climbers/habeler Among his accomplishments as a mountaineer are his first ascents in the Rocky Mountains. He was also the first European to take part in big wall climbing in Yosemite National Park. He began climbing with Reinhold Messner in 1969. Several accomplishments in mountaineering followed. The most notable event was the first ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen on 8 May 1978 together with Messner, which was previously thought to be impossible. A year after his climb on Everest he published ''Lonely Victory ("Der einsame Sieg". Author: Eberhard Fuchs)'' in 1978.http://www.thecourier.com.uk Habeler set further records by descending from the summit to the South Col in only one hour and climbing the North Face of the Eiger in ten hours. Other eight-thousanders (mountains over ...
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Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian climber, explorer, and author from the German-speaking province of South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, doing so without supplementary oxygen. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds and also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. He is widely considered to be the greatest mountaineer of all time. From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as a member of the European Parliament for north-east Italy, as a member of the Federation of the Greens. Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2010, he received the 2nd Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. In 2018, he received jointly with Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess of Asturias Award in the category ...
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Eight-thousander
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayas, Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone. From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were first summited by Expedition climbing, expedition climbers in the summer (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first to be summited in winter being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021 ...
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