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Eight-thousanders
The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise definition of the criteria used to assess independence, and at times, the UIAA has considered whether the list should be expanded to 20 mountain peaks by including the major satellite peaks of eight-thousanders. All of the eight-thousanders are located in the Himalayan and Karakoram mountain ranges in Asia, and their summits lie in the altitude range known as the death zone. From 1950 to 1964, all 14 eight-thousanders were first summited by expedition climbers in the summer (the first to be summited was Annapurna I in 1950, and the last was Shishapangma in 1964), and from 1980 to 2021, all 14 were summited in the winter (the first to be summited in winter being Mount Everest in 1980, and the last being K2 in 2021). On a variety of statis ...
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Reinhold Messner
Reinhold Andreas Messner (; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian climber, explorer, and author from the German-speaking province of South Tyrol. He made the first solo ascent of Mount Everest and, along with Peter Habeler, the first ascent of Everest without supplemental oxygen. He was the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders, doing so without supplementary oxygen. Messner was the first to cross Antarctica and Greenland with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds and also crossed the Gobi Desert alone. He is widely considered to be the greatest mountaineer of all time. From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as a member of the European Parliament for north-east Italy, as a member of the Federation of the Greens. Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2010, he received the 2nd Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award. In 2018, he received jointly with Krzysztof Wielicki the Princess of Asturias Award in the category ...
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Shishapangma
Shishapangma, or Shishasbangma or Xixiabangma ( zh, s=希夏邦马, p=Xī xià bāng mǎ), is the 14th-highest mountain in the world, at above sea level. The lowest 8,000 metre peak, it is located entirely within Tibet. Name Geologist Toni Hagen explained the name as meaning a "grassy plain" or "meadow" (') above a "comb" or a "range" (' or ') in the local Tibetan language, thereby signifying the "crest above the grassy plains". On the other hand, Tibetologist Guntram Hazod records a local story that explains the mountain's name in terms of its literal meaning in the Standard Tibetan language: ', which means "meat of an animal that died of natural causes", and ', which means "malt dregs left over from brewing beer". According to the story, one year a heavy snowfall killed most of the animals at pasture. All that the people living near the mountain had to eat was the meat of the dead animals and the malt dregs left over from brewing beer, and so the mountain was named Shisha ...
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Nirmal Purja
Nirmal Purja (known as Nims or Nimsdai) (; born 25 July 1983) is a Nepal-born naturalised British mountaineer. Prior to taking on a career in mountaineering, he served in the British Army with the Brigade of Gurkhas followed by the Special Boat Service (SBS), the special forces unit of the Royal Navy. Purja is notable for having climbed all 14 eight-thousanders (peaks above ) in a time of six months and six days with the aid of bottled oxygen between April and October 2019. This was a record at the time of climbing, although it was broken in 2023 by Kristin Harila and Tenjen Sherpa, who summitted all 14 eight-thousanders in 92 days. Purja was the first person to reach the summits of Mount Everest, Lhotse and Makalu within 48 hours. In 2021, Purja, along with a team of nine other Nepalese climbers, completed the first winter ascent of K2. Early life Nirmal ("Nims") Purja was born in July 1983 in Dana, a small village in Nepal's Myagdi District near Dhaulagiri, at 1,60 ...
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Kristin Harila
Kristin Harila (born 28 March 1986) is a Norwegian-Northern Saami mountaineer and former cross-country skier. During 2022–2023, she set multiple speed records for the ascent of all 14 eight-thousanders with Tenjen Sherpa. Climbing career In May 2021, Harila set a world record ''Fastest double-header of the Higher Eightthousanders by a woman'' becoming the fastest woman to climb Mount Everest and Lhotse in under twelve hours. On 22 May 2022, she beat her own record when she crossed from the top of Mount Everest to the top of Lhotse in nine hours, five minutes. Her success in previous expeditions and summit attempts inspired her to embark in 2022 upon her latest challenge, "Bremont 14 Peaks", and become the first woman in history, and the second person after Nirmal Purja, to climb all 14 eight-thousander peaks in six months. She came close to beating Purja's record time for climbing all 14 eight-thousanders in a season with only two peaks missing. However, when the Chinese aut ...
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Sirbaz Khan
Sirbaz Khan (born 1986.12.03) is a Pakistani mountaineer. He is the first Pakistani to summit all 14 eighth-thousander peaks in the world. Early life Sirbaz was born in Aliabad, Hunza Valley in 1987. His father was a carpenter and his first expedition was as an assistant cook for the base camp of K2 when he was in 9th grade. Career He initially started his climbing career working as a porter for foreign climbers but in 2016 he was sponsored by the Nepalese climber Mingma Sherpa for an expedition to climb K2. Although the duo failed in their attempt but in October 2017 Sirbaz successfully summited Nanga Parbat becoming the first to climb the mountain in autumn season. In July 2018, Sirbaz climbed the tall K2 — the second-tallest mountain in the world. In May 2019, Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to successfully summit the high Mount Lhotse – the world’s 4th highest mountain - without using supplementary oxygen. In July 2019, Sirbaz climbed the summit of the B ...
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Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (born 13 December 1970) is an Austrian mountaineer. In August 2011, she became the second woman to climb the fourteen eight-thousanders and the first woman to do so without using supplemental oxygen or high-altitude porters. In 2012, she won the prestigious National Geographic Explorer of the Year Award. Mountaineering Her interest in mountain climbing developed at a young age, and by the age of 13, she had completed climbing tours at the local Sturzhahn. As she pursued her nursing training in Vienna, Austria, she continued to hone her skills by participating in numerous ski, ice- and rock-climbing tours. At the age of 32, Kaltenbrunner climbed her fourth 8000m peak, Nanga Parbat, and decided to pursue professional mountain climbing full-time. Eight-thousanders Together with Edurne Pasaban and Nives Meroi she is one of only three women who have climbed the fourteen eight-thousanders. Kaltenbrunner climbs without supplemental oxygen, which makes her the f ...
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Edurne Pasaban
Edurne Pasaban Lizarribar (born August 1, 1973) is a Basque Spanish mountaineer. On May 17, 2010, she became the first woman to climb all 14 of the eight-thousanders – and the 21st person to do so.ExWeb Oh Eun-Sun report, final: Edurne Pasaban takes the throne
ExplorersWeb, Dec 10, 2010
Her first 8,000 peak had been achieved 9 years earlier, on May 23, 2001, when she reached the summit of . She has also completed the .


Life and career

Pasaban was born in
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Ed Viesturs
Edmund "Ed" Viesturs (; born June 22, 1959) is an American high-altitude mountaineer, corporate speaker, and well known author in the mountain climbing community. He was the first American to climb all 14 of the eight-thousander mountains, and the 5th person to do so without supplemental oxygen. Along with Apa Sherpa, he has summitted eight-thousanders on 21 occasions, including Mount Everest seven times. Viesturs took part in the 1996 IMAX filming of ''Everest'' shortly after the 1996 Mount Everest disaster, which became the highest grossing documentary up to that time.Survivors Look Back – April 2003
Thirteen days after the disaster, his team summited Everest accompanied by a film crew. He also had a cameo in the 2000 film ''

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Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapurna I () is east of Dhaulagiri. The Kali Gandaki River flows between the two in the Kaligandaki Gorge, said to be the world's deepest. The town of Pokhara is south of the Annapurnas, an important regional center and the gateway for climbers and trekkers visiting both ranges as well as a tourist destination in its own right. Toponymy Dhaulagiri (धौलागिरी) is the Nepali name for the mountain which comes from Sanskrit where धवल (dhawala) means dazzling, white, beautiful and गिरि (giri) means mountain. Dhaulagiri I is also the highest point of the Gandaki river basin. Geography Looking north from the plains of India, most 8,000-metre peaks are obscured by nearer mountains, but in clear weather, Dhaulagiri ...
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Tenjen Sherpa
Tenjen Sherpa (1987/1988 – 7 October 2023), also known as Tenjen Lama Sherpa, was a Nepalese mountaineer who climbed all 14 eight-thousander together with Kristin Harila in 92 days. He went missing after an avalanche hit on Shishapangma on 7 October 2023. He was declared dead by Chinese authorities on 8 October 2023. Climbing career On 15 May 2019, he and his brothers established the record ''Most siblings to climb Kangchenjunga''. On 27 July 2023, Tenjen Lama Sherpa became the 50th recorded mountaineer to have successfully climbed all 14 eight thousanders. Since 27 July 2023, together with Kristin Harila, he held the record as the fastest person to reach the summit of all 14 peaks above 8,000 metres, which they did in 92 days. They used helicopters to move between base camps and added supplemental oxygen. Tenjen worked as a climbing guide for the Nepalese adventure company Seven Summit Treks. Summit ascents 2016 * Dhaulagiri 2017 * Ama Dablam * Manaslu 2018 * ...
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Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the spirit" and the word is derived from the Sanskrit word ''manasa'', meaning "intellect" or "soul". Manaslu was first climbed on May 9, 1956, by Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu, members of a Japanese expedition. It is said that, given the many unsuccessful attempts by the British to climb Mount Everest, Everest before Nepali people, Nepali Tenzing Norgay and New Zealander Edmund Hillary, "just as the British consider Everest their mountain, Manaslu has always been a Japanese mountain".Mayhew, p. 326 Manaslu is the highest peak in the Gorkha District and is about east of Annapurna, the List of highest mountains on Earth, tenth highest mountain in the world at 8,091 metres (26,545 ft) above sea level. Manaslu's long ridges and valley ...
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Mountaineer
Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports in their own right. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering are also considered variants of mountaineering by some, but are part of a wide group of mountain sports. Unlike most sports, mountaineering lacks widely applied formal rules, regulations, and governance; mountaineers adhere to a large variety of techniques and philosophies (including grading and guidebooks) when climbing mountains. Numerous local alpine clubs support mountaineers by hosting resources and social activities. A federation of alpine clubs, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), is the International Olympic Committee-recognized world organization for mountaineering and climbing. The consequences of mountaineering on the natural env ...
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