Sirbaz Khan (born 1986.12.03) is a Pakistani

mountaineer Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...

. He is the first Pakistani to summit all 14 eighth-thousander peaks in the world.

Early life

Sirbaz was born in Aliabad,

Hunza Valley The Hunza Valley (; ) is a mountainous valley located in the northern region of the Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Geography The valley stretches along the Hunza River and shares borders with Ishkoman Valley, Ishkoman to the northwest, Shigar Val ...

in 1987. His father was a carpenter and his first expedition was as an assistant cook for the base camp of K2 when he was in 9th grade.

Career

He initially started his climbing career working as a porter for foreign climbers but in 2016 he was sponsored by the Nepalese climber Mingma Sherpa for an expedition to climb K2. Although the duo failed in their attempt but in October 2017 Sirbaz successfully summited

Nanga Parbat Nanga Parbat () (; ), known locally as Diamer (), is the ninth-highest mountain on Earth and its summit is at above sea level. Lying immediately southeast of the northernmost bend of the Indus River in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan-a ...

becoming the first to climb the mountain in autumn season. In July 2018, Sirbaz climbed the tall K2 — the second-tallest mountain in the world. In May 2019, Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to successfully summit the high Mount Lhotse – the world’s 4th highest mountain - without using supplementary oxygen. In July 2019, Sirbaz climbed the summit of the

Broad Peak Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...

mountain in Pakistan, without using supplementary oxygen. In September 2019, Sirbaz became the first Pakistani to scale Mount Manaslu, the world's 8th highest peak, in Nepal. In April 2021, Sirbaz and Muhammad Abdul Joshi became the first Pakistanis to scale the 8,091-metre

Annapurna Annapurna (; ) is a mountain situated in the Annapurna mountain range of Gandaki Province, north-central Nepal. It is the 10th highest mountain in the world at above sea level and is well known for the difficulty and danger involved in its as ...

peak in Nepal, the 10th highest mountain in the world. In May 2021, Sirbaz reached the summit of the world's highest peak

Mount Everest Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...

, in Nepal. In July 2021, Sirbaz successfully climbed the high Gasherbrum-II, the world's 13th-tallest peak. In October 2021, Sirbaz climbed the high

Dhaulagiri Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition. Annapur ...

mountain in Nepal. In May 2022, Sirbaz climbed the world's 3rd-highest peak,

Kanchenjunga Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...

, in Nepal. Later in May, Sirbaz summited the high Mount Makalu in Nepal, the world's 5th highest peak. In July 2022, Sirbaz climbed the high K2 — the 2nd highest mountain in the world. In August 2022, Sirbaz successfully climbed the high Gasherbrum-I, the 11th highest mountain in the world. In October 2023, Sirbaz summited the world’s sixth-highest peak,

Cho Oyu Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...

(8,201 metres), in

Tibet Tibet (; ''Böd''; ), or Greater Tibet, is a region in the western part of East Asia, covering much of the Tibetan Plateau and spanning about . It is the homeland of the Tibetan people. Also resident on the plateau are other ethnic groups s ...

. Later in October 2023, Sirbaz Khan and Naila Kiani called off their attempted ascent of

Shishapangma Shishapangma, or Shishasbangma or Xixiabangma ( zh, s=希夏邦马, p=Xī xià bāng mǎ), is the 14th-highest mountain in the world, at above sea level. The lowest 8,000 metre peak, it is located entirely within Tibet. Name Geologist Toni H ...

peak in

, after surviving an

avalanche An avalanche is a rapid flow of snow down a Grade (slope), slope, such as a hill or mountain. Avalanches can be triggered spontaneously, by factors such as increased precipitation or snowpack weakening, or by external means such as humans, othe ...

near its summit. In May 2024, Sirbaz reached the summit of the world's highest peak

, in Nepal without using supplemental oxygen. In September 2024, Sirbaz and Shehroze Kashif began their final ascent to

the last of the world's 14

eight-thousander The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defin ...

's peak and on 3 October, they successfully reached the summit making Sirbaz the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the eight thousander mountains. In May 2025, Sirbaz reached the summit of

Kangchenjunga Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...

and became the first Pakistani to climb all 14 of the

eight-thousanders The eight-thousanders are the 14 mountains recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) as being more than in height above sea level, and sufficiently independent of neighbouring peaks. There is no precise defi ...

without supplemental oxygen.

References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Khan, Sirbaz Living people Pakistani summiters of Broad Peak Pakistani summiters of K2 Pakistani summiters of Mount Everest Year of birth missing (living people) Summiters of all 14 eight-thousanders 1987 births People from Hunza