
Philip Kraft (born in
Rendsburg
Rendsburg (, also ''Rensborg'', , also ''Rensborg'') is a town on the Eider (river), River Eider and the Kiel Canal in the central part of Schleswig-Holstein, Germany. It is the capital of the ''Kreis'' (district) of Rendsburg-Eckernfoerde, Rends ...
on March 24, 1969) is a
German organic chemist. Since 1996 he has been employed by
Givaudan, a leading Flavor and Fragrance company, where he designs
captive odorants for use in
perfumes. He has lectured at the
University of Bern, the
University of Zurich
The University of Zurich (UZH, ) is a public university, public research university in Zurich, Switzerland. It is the largest university in Switzerland, with its 28,000 enrolled students. It was founded in 1833 from the existing colleges of the ...
, and the
ETH Zurich.
Career
Kraft's interest in fragrance chemistry and perfumery was awakened in 1986 by an article on
rose oxide analogs, which led to contacts with Haarmann & Reimer (now
Symrise), where he was introduced to the world of scents and fragrances. After graduation from high school and
military service
Military service is service by an individual or group in an army or other militia, air forces, and naval forces, whether as a chosen job (volunteer military, volunteer) or as a result of an involuntary draft (conscription).
Few nations, such ...
which involved
forensic and
analytical chemistry, he studied chemistry from 1989–1994 at the
University of Kiel. He obtained his degree while working in
Werner Tochtermann's group, then continued his research with this group, producing his
PhD thesis on the
synthesis of
macrocyclic musks in 1996. Moving to industry, he joined
Givaudan's Fragrance Research center of in
Dübendorf
Dübendorf is a Municipalities of Switzerland, municipality in the district of Uster (district), Uster in the Cantons of Switzerland, canton of Zürich (canton), Zürich in Switzerland.
It is a suburb of Zürich in Switzerland with a population o ...
(
Switzerland
Switzerland, officially the Swiss Confederation, is a landlocked country located in west-central Europe. It is bordered by Italy to the south, France to the west, Germany to the north, and Austria and Liechtenstein to the east. Switzerland ...
) in 1996 as the head of an organic synthesis laboratory. In 2001 he participated in an
expedition with
Roman Kaiser to the primary
rain forest of the
Masoala peninsula
A peninsula is a landform that extends from a mainland and is only connected to land on one side. Peninsulas exist on each continent. The largest peninsula in the world is the Arabian Peninsula.
Etymology
The word ''peninsula'' derives , . T ...
(
Madagascar
Madagascar, officially the Republic of Madagascar, is an island country that includes the island of Madagascar and numerous smaller peripheral islands. Lying off the southeastern coast of Africa, it is the world's List of islands by area, f ...
) in search of new natural
leads. That same year, he was promoted to group leader for the discovery of new odorants. His primary
research
Research is creative and systematic work undertaken to increase the stock of knowledge. It involves the collection, organization, and analysis of evidence to increase understanding of a topic, characterized by a particular attentiveness to ...
interests are the rational design of new odorants, molecular modeling, and structure–odor correlations, particularly in the domain of
musks and floral odorants. Since 2008 he has taught courses in fragrance chemistry at the
University of Bern, the
University of Zurich
The University of Zurich (UZH, ) is a public university, public research university in Zurich, Switzerland. It is the largest university in Switzerland, with its 28,000 enrolled students. It was founded in 1833 from the existing colleges of the ...
, and the
ETH Zurich.
Publications and patents
Kraft, as of 2014, has authored 78 papers in peer-reviewed chemistry journals, and is inventor or co-inventor of 30 patents. Highly cited reviews include “Fragrance Chemistry“, “Odds and Trends: Recent Developments in the Chemistry of Odorants”, “New and Unusual Natural Products of Fascinating Flower Scents“, and a book chapter on “Musks”. He co-organized the ''Flavor & Fragrance'' conference series of the
Royal Society of Chemistry
The Royal Society of Chemistry (RSC) is a learned society and professional association in the United Kingdom with the goal of "advancing the chemistry, chemical sciences". It was formed in 1980 from the amalgamation of the Chemical Society, the ...
and the Society of the Chemical Industry in Manchester 2004 and London 2007, and the
Gesellschaft Deutscher Chemiker at
Leipzig in 2013.
Kraft was the research instigator and lead author of ''From Rallet No1 to Chanel No5 versus Mademoiselle Chanel No1'' which explored the work of perfumer
Ernest Beaux leading to the creation of
Chanel's No.5.
Books
* Philip Kraft, Karl A. D. Swift
“''Perspectives in Flavor and Fragrance Research''” Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta, Zurich, and WILEY-VCH Verlag, Weinheim, 2005, .
* Philip Kraft, Karl A. D. Swift
“''Current Topics in Flavor and Fragrance Research''” Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta, Zurich, and WILEY-VCH Verlag, Weinheim, 2008, .
*
Günther Ohloff, Wilhelm Pickenhagen, Philip Kraft
“''Scent and Chemistry – The Molecular World of Odors''” Verlag Helvetica Chimica Acta, Zurich, 2011, .
Invented Materials
* Super Muguet (6-ethyl-3-methyloct-6-en-1-ol, 2001), non-sensitizing
muguet alcohol: »''Marc Jacobs Men''« (
Givenchy, 2003).
* Azurone (7-isopentyl-2''H''-benzo
'b''1,4]dioxepin-3(4''H'')-one, 2004), potent marine odorant: »''Oscar Marina Spirit''« (
Oscar de la Renta, 2005), »''Sécrétions Magnifiques''« (
Etat Libre d'Orange, 2007).
*
Pomarose ((2''E'')-5,6,7-trimethylocta-2,5-dien-4-one, 2005), diffusive
damascone mimic: »''Be Delicious for Men''« (
DKNY, 2005), »''Unforgivable''« (
Sean John
Sean John is a privately held fashion lifestyle company created by music mogul Sean "Diddy" Combs, Sean John "Diddy" Combs. The line made its fashion debut with a men's sportswear collection for the spring 1998 season.
In 2016, the brand had ann ...
, 2006), »''Unforgivable Woman''« (
Sean John
Sean John is a privately held fashion lifestyle company created by music mogul Sean "Diddy" Combs, Sean John "Diddy" Combs. The line made its fashion debut with a men's sportswear collection for the spring 1998 season.
In 2016, the brand had ann ...
, 2007), »''John Galliano''« (
John Galliano, 2008), »''1 Million''« (
Paco Rabanne, 2008), »''CK free''« (
Calvin Klein, 2009).
* Serenolide (2-(1-(3,3-dimethylcyclohexyl)ethoxy)-2-methylpropyl cyclopropanecarboxylate, 2006), linear musk odorant: »''Polo Double Black''« (
Ralph Lauren, 2006), »''Unforgivable Woman''« (
Sean John
Sean John is a privately held fashion lifestyle company created by music mogul Sean "Diddy" Combs, Sean John "Diddy" Combs. The line made its fashion debut with a men's sportswear collection for the spring 1998 season.
In 2016, the brand had ann ...
, 2007), »''John Galliano''« (
John Galliano, 2008). This substance showed only weak potential for skin sensitization.
* Sylkolide ((3' ''E'')-2-((3',5'-dimethylhex-3'-en-2'-yl)oxy)-2-methylpropyl cyclopropanecarboxylate, 2010), linear top-note musk: »''Core for Men''« (
GAP, 2010).
* Cassyrane (2-(''tert''-butyl)-5-methyl-2-propyl-2,5-dihydrofuran, 2010), sulfur-free cassis top note.
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Kraft, Philip
Living people
21st-century German chemists
1969 births
People from Rendsburg
Academic staff of ETH Zurich