Peter Gillman
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Peter Gillman
Peter Gillman (born 1942) is a British writer and journalist specialising (but not exclusively) in mountaineering topics. Many of his books are co-written, mainly with his wife Leni Gillman. Early life and education Gillman attended Dulwich College (1953–61), and University College Oxford (1961–64). He was editor of ''The Isis Magazine'' at Oxford. Career He joined the Weekend Telegraph as a feature writer in 1965. He subsequently spent fifteen years on the staff of the ''Sunday Times'', including five years on the newspaper's Insight team. He became a freelance journalist in 1983 and has written for most British newspapers. With Dougal Haston he co-authored the book, ''Direttissima; the Eiger Assault'' (1967), also published under the title ''Direttissima'', which told the story of the ascent of the Eiger North Face in which John Harlin II lost his life. Peter and Leni Gillman's 2000 book, ''The Wildest Dream'', is a biography of the Everest climber George Mallory ...
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Mountaineering
Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become mountain sports, sports in their own right. Indoor climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering are also considered variants of mountaineering by some, but are part of a wide group of mountain sports. Unlike most sports, mountaineering lacks widely applied formal rules, regulations, and governance; mountaineers adhere to a large variety of techniques and philosophies (including grade (climbing), grading and climbing guidebook, guidebooks) when climbing mountains. Numerous local alpine clubs support mountaineers by hosting resources and social activities. A federation of alpine clubs, the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA), is the International Olympic Committee-recognized world organization for mountaineering and climbing. T ...
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Leni Gillman
Leni may refer to: * Leni (name) Leni is both a given name and a surname. Notable people with the name include: Given name Male and female: * Leni Alexander (1924–2005), Chilean composer * Leni Apisai (born 1996), New Zealand rugby union player * Leni Björklund (born 1944), S ... * Leni, Sicily {{dab ...
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Dulwich College
Dulwich College is a 2-18 private, day and boarding school for boys in Dulwich, London, England. As a public school, it began as the College of God's Gift, founded in 1619 by Elizabethan actor Edward Alleyn, with the original purpose of educating 12 poor scholars. It began to grow into a large school from 1857 and took its current form in 1870, when it moved into its current premises. Admission by examination is mainly into years 3, 7, 9, and 12 (i.e. ages 7, 11, 13, and 16 years old) to the Junior, Lower, Middle and Upper Schools into which the college is divided. It is a member of both the Headmasters' and Headmistresses' Conference and the Eton Group. In the 2023 A-levels, the school saw 64.8% of its candidates score A*/A. The school is included in The Schools Index as one of the 150 best private schools in the world and among the top 30 senior schools in the UK. History 1619: The College of God's Gift On 21 June 1619, the College of God's Gift was establish ...
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University College Oxford
University College, formally The Master and Fellows of the College of the Great Hall of the University commonly called University College in the University of Oxford and colloquially referred to as "Univ", is a constituent college of the University of Oxford in England. It has a claim to being the oldest college of the university, having been founded by William of Durham in 1249. As of 2023, the college had an estimated financial endowment of £146.084 million, and their total net assets amounted to £238.316 million. The college is associated with a number of influential people, including Clement Attlee, Harold Wilson, Bill and Chelsea Clinton, Neil Gorsuch, Stephen Hawking, C. S. Lewis, V. S. Naipaul, Robert Reich, William Beveridge, Bob Hawke, Robert Cecil, Tom Hooper, and Percy Bysshe Shelley. History A legend arose in the 14th century that the college was founded by King Alfred in 872. This explains why the college arms are those attributed to King Alfred, why the Vi ...
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The Isis Magazine
The ''Isis'' is a student publication at the University of Oxford, where the magazine was established in 1892. Historically a rival to the student newspaper '' Cherwell'', ''Isis'' was finally acquired by the latter's publishing house, Oxford Student Publications Limited, in the late 1990s. It now operates as a termly magazine and website, providing an outlet for features journalism, although for most of its life it appeared weekly. The two publications are named after the two rivers in Oxford, "Isis" being the local name for the River Thames. History The ''Isis'' was founded by Mostyn Turtle Piggott, the first of the student editors, on 27 April 1892. In his first editorial he wrote: "We have no politics and fewer principles, and should we last until the General Election we shall use our influence for neither side. We shall endeavour to be humorous without being ill-humoured, critical without being captious, militant without being malevolent, independent without being impe ...
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Dougal Haston
Duncan "''Dougal"'' Curdy MacSporran Haston (19 April 1940 – 17 January 1977) was a Scottish mountaineer noted for his exploits in the British Isles, Alps, and the Himalayas. From 1967 he was the director of the International School of Mountaineering at Leysin, Switzerland, a role he held until his death in an avalanche while skiing above Leysin. Biography Haston was born in Currie, on the outskirts of Edinburgh, and educated at West Calder High School. Early in his career, he climbed numerous new Scottish routes with Robin Smith. Routes such as The Bat on the Carn Dearg Buttress of Ben Nevis helped establish the pair as future stars. Smith died in an accident in 1962. In 1965, shortly before his ascent of Harlin Direct on the Eiger, Haston was sentenced to 60 days in prison having run down and killed 18-year-old student James Orr whilst driving drunk. Haston lived on to realize his early promise. In 1970, he and Don Whillans were the first to climb the south face of An ...
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Eiger
The Eiger () is a mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen in the Bernese Oberland of Switzerland, just north of the main watershed and border with Valais. It is the easternmost peak of a ridge crest that extends across the Mönch to the Jungfrau at , constituting one of the most emblematic sights of the Swiss Alps. While the northern side of the mountain rises more than 3,000 m (10,000 ft) above the two valleys of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen, the southern side faces the large glaciers of the Jungfrau-Aletsch area, the most glaciated region in the Alps. The most notable feature of the Eiger is its nearly north face of rock and ice, named ''Eiger-Nordwand'', ''Eigerwand'' or just ''Nordwand'', which is the biggest north face in the Alps. This substantial face towers over the resort of Kleine Scheidegg at its base, on the eponymous pass connecting the two valleys. The first ascent of the Eiger was made by Swiss guides Christian Alm ...
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John Harlin
John Elvis Harlin II (June 30, 1935 – March 22, 1966) was an American alpinist and US Air Force pilot who was killed while making an ascent of the north face of the Eiger at age 30. Biography Harlin graduated from Sequoia High School and Stanford University. Having established himself as a leading alpine climber with the first American ascent in 1962 of the '' 1938 Heckmair Route'' on the north face of the Eiger, and the first ascent of the ''American Direct'' route on Les Dru, he conceived of climbing the Eiger by a '' direttissima'' (Italian for "most direct") route. Two thousand feet from the summit, his rope broke and he fell to his death in 1966. The Scottish mountaineer Dougal Haston, who had been climbing with Harlin, reached the summit with a German party which joined forces to follow the same route, afterward named the ''Harlin route'' in his honor. The story of the climb was recounted in the book ''Direttissima: The Eiger Assault'' by the British author (and gro ...
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George Mallory
George Herbert Leigh-Mallory (18 June 1886 – 8 or 9 June 1924) was an English Mountaineering, mountaineer who participated in the first three British Mount Everest expeditions from the early to mid-1920s. He and climbing partner Andrew Irvine (mountaineer), Andrew "Sandy" Irvine were purportedly last seen ascending near Everest's summit during the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition, 1924 expedition, sparking debate as to whether they reached it before they died. Born in Cheshire, England, Mallory became a student at Winchester College, where a teacher recruited him for an excursion in the Alps, and he developed a strong natural climbing ability. After graduating from Magdalene College, Cambridge, where he became friends with prominent intellectuals, he taught at Charterhouse School while honing his climbing skills in the Alps and the English Lake District. He pioneered new routes and became a respected figure in the British climbing community. His service in the ...
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Boardman Tasker Prize For Mountain Literature
The Boardman Tasker Prize for Mountain Literature is an annual prize of £3,000 awarded by the Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust to an author or authors for "an original work which has made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature". The prize was established in 1983 in memory of British climbers Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker, both of whom wrote books about their mountaineering expeditions, after their deaths on the northeast ridge of Mount Everest in 1982. It can be awarded for a piece of fiction or non-fiction, poetry or drama, although the work must have been written in (or translated into) English. The prize is announced at the annual Kendal Mountain Festival. Winners *2024 Nandini Purandare and Deepa Balsavar, ''Headstrap: Legends and Lore from the Climbing Sherpas of Darjeeling'' *2023 Katie Brown, ''Unraveled: A Climber’s Journey through Darkness and Back'' *2022 Brian Hall, ''High Risk: Climbing to Extinction'' and Helen Mort, ''A Line Above the Sky: A Story ...
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The Wildest Dream
''The Wildest Dream'' is a 2010 theatrical-release feature documentary film about the British climber George Mallory who disappeared on Mount Everest in 1924 with his climbing partner Andrew Irvine. The film interweaves two stories, one about climber Conrad Anker (who discovered Mallory's body lying on Everest in 1999) returning to Everest to investigate Mallory's disappearance and the other a biography of Mallory told through letters (read by Ralph Fiennes and Natasha Richardson, in her final film), original film footage from the 1920s and archival photos. The film was released in the US and on giant screen cinemas around the world by National Geographic Entertainment in August 2010 as ''The Wildest Dream: Conquest of Everest''. The film was released in the UK by Serengeti Entertainment in September 2010 as ''The Wildest Dream''. Synopsis In 1924 mountaineer George Mallory was torn between love for his wife Ruth, and his obsession with the last great adventure left to man: becom ...
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Outdoor Writers And Photographers Guild
The Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild was established in 1980 as the Outdoor Writers Guild - a professional group for writers specialising in the outdoors. In 2006 the Guild changed its name to Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild to recognise that members had professional skills in other areas to writing, with an informal strapline ‘Words and Pictures from the Outdoors’. Today’s membership includes writers, journalists, photographers, illustrators, broadcasters, film-makers, artists, web designers, publishers and editors, but all with the common bond of a passionate interest in the outdoors. Most members are based in the UK although membership extends internationally. It has over 150 members and is run by a committee of members. The current chair is the prolific writer and journalist Stan Abbott. His predecessor, whom he succeeded in October 2021, was the mountaineering writer and Boardman Tasker winner, Peter Gillman, who was chair for five years, and is now the gu ...
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