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Latok
The Latok () group is a cluster of large and dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakoram mountain range in Pakistan. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakoram. On the north side, lies the Choktoi Glacier. The Latok range may be best known for Latok I's north ridge wall, which remains unclimbed in its entirety, despite many attempts. The Latok Tuber Belay Device, a piece of climbing equipment popularized by Jeff Lowe, takes its name from the mountain range. Latok group The Latok group comprises four main summits, each listed here with its relative position in the group, elevation, and first ascent date: * Latok I, north-central, 7,145 m, climbed 1979 * Latok II, west, 7,108 m, climbed 1977 * Latok III, east, 6,949 m, climbed 1979 * Latok IV, southeast, 6,456 m, cli ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Thomas Huber
Thomas Huber (born 18 November 1966) is a German rock climber (and especially big wall climbing) and mountaineering, mountaineer (and especially alpine climbing). He lives in Berchtesgaden with his family. His brother and regular climbing partner is Alexander Huber, and the two are called "Huberbuam" (Huberboys) in the Bavarian dialect; they were the subject of the 2007 film To the Limit (2007 film), ''To the Limit''. In 2001, Huber won the 10th Piolet d'Or award with Iwan Wolf for their ascent of the direct north pillar of Shivling (mountain), Shivling. Early life and education Thomas Huber was born 18 November 1966, in Palling, Bavaria as the first child of Thomas and Maria Huber.Our Milestones Thomas and Alexander Huber. retrieved 20 November 2017 His father was a climber known for early speed ascents of now classic climbs. He took hi ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Don Morrison (mountaineer)
Donald Kenneth Morrison (19 March 1929 – 21 June 1977) was a British climber and mountaineer. Morrison first became known as a pioneer rock climber in Canada, then in England's Peak District and he led three expeditions to the Himalayas. He died in 1977 leading an attempt on Latok II peak in the Karakoram. Early years Morrison was born in Bromley, Kent and his family later moved to Sheffield, Yorkshire. While on military service with the RAF Morrison first developed his climbing skills, during travels in the Middle East, including Kurdistan, Turkey and Iraq. Climbing career Canada During the 1950s Morrison lived in North America. Joining the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) in 1955, he climbed and guided extensively in the Rockies around Banff and Lake Louise. Among 14 first ascents made in the Rockies, Bugaboos, and Coast Range during this period were Mount Morrison (Alberta, 1955)], and Mount Jerram (1957) with Canadian climber, Jim Tarrant. In 1955 Morrison and Tarrant mad ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Panmah Muztagh
The Panmah Muztagh is a subrange of the Karakoram range, in Shigar, a district of Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. Geography Panmah Muztagh's highest peaks are not particularly high by Karakoram standards, but they are exceedingly steep rock spires, unlike many of the peaks in the surrounding subranges.Andy Fanshawe and Stephen Venables, ''Himalaya Alpine-Style'', Hodder and Stoughton, 1995, . In particular, the highest of the Panmah peaks, Baintha Brakk (The Ogre) (7,285 m/23,901 feet), is a very difficult climb; it has seen only three ascents. The nearby Latok group is of similar difficulty.''American Alpine Journal'', 2001, p. 365 Both groups lie on the north side of the long Biafo Glacier. The Panmah Muztagh lies in the heart of the Karakoram, northwest of the Baltoro Muztagh The Baltoro Muztagh (, ) is a subrange within the Karakoram mountain range. It spans across the Baltistan region of Gilgit-Baltistan, which is the northernmost political entity of Pakistan, and extends ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Aleš Česen
Aleš Česen (born 26 April 1982) is a Slovenian climber, mountaineer, mountain guide and entrepreneur. Climbing career In 2015, Česen was awarded Piolet d'Or for the ascent of the north face of Hagshu along with Marko Prezelj and Luca Lindič. In 2019, he received the award again for the North ridge of Latok I in 2019 with his climbing partners, Tom Livingstone and Luka Stražar. In 2017, Česen was awarded Alpinist of the year award, by the Alpine Association of Slovenia. Personal life Česen has a PhD in Civil Engineering, and is an IFMGA/UIAGM mountain guide. and climbing instructor. Ales has two sons. His father is the Slovenian mountaineer, Tomo Česen. Notable ascents * 2018. Karakoram – North ridge on Latok I (7145 m / 23 442 ft) *2017. Indian Himalaya (Kishtwar) – New route on North Ridge of P6013 (6038 m / 19 809 ft) *2017. Indian Himalaya (Kishtwar) – New route on Arjuna (6250 m / 20 505 ft), 2nd ascent of the summit, 1st in alpine styl ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Alexander Huber
Alexander Huber (born 30 December 1968) is a German rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of rock climbing. Huber came to prominence in the early 1990s as the world's strongest sport climber after the passing of Wolfgang Güllich. He is the second-ever person to redpoint a graded route by ascending ''Om'' in 1992, and has come to be known as the first-ever person to redpoint a graded route from his 1996 ascent of '. For a decade following the mid-1990s, Huber, often partnered with his brother Thomas, also came to be regarded as the strongest big wall free climber of his generation, with groundbreaking first ascents in Yosemite (''El Nino'' in 1998, and ''Zodiac'' in 2003), the Karakoram ( Latok II in 1997, and '' Eternal Flame'' in 2009), and in other notable big wall locations around the world. Huber’s 1995 ascent of the '' Salathé Wall'' in Yosemite was the first-ever redpoint of an graded big wall in h ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Jeff Lowe
Jeff Lowe (September 13, 1950 - August 24, 2018) was an American alpinist from Ogden, Utah who was known for his visionary climbs and first ascents established in the Rocky Mountains, US and Canadian Rockies, Alps and Himalayas. He was a proponent of the Alpine style, where small teams travel fast with minimal gear. He is also credited as the inventor of mixed climbing. Lowe made over 1000 first ascents. Lowe was a co-founder of Lowe Alpine along with his brothers Greg Lowe (climber), Greg Lowe and Mike Lowe. Jeff Lowe is the cousin of George Henry Lowe , George Henry Lowe III. Lowe suffered from a neurological disease similar to ALS for approximately 18 years, until he died on August 24, 2018, in Colorado, United States. Career achievements Lowe is credited with bringing modern ice climbing to the United States from Europe as well as pushing the limits of mixed climbing. He was the founder of companies such as Latok Mountain Gear and Cloudwalker. He helped to invent the wor ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Alpine Climbing
Alpine climbing () is a type of mountaineering that uses any of a broad range of advanced climbing skills, including rock climbing, ice climbing, and/or mixed climbing, to summit typically large routes (e.g. multi-pitch or big wall) in an alpine environment. While alpine climbing began in the European Alps, it is used to refer to climbing in any remote mountainous area, including in the Himalayas and Patagonia. The derived term alpine style refers to the fashion of alpine climbing to be in small lightly equipped teams who carry their equipment (e.g. no porters), and do all of the climbing (e.g. no sherpas or reserve teams). Alpinists face a wide range of serious risks in addition to the specific risks of rock, ice, and mixed climbing. This includes the risks of rockfalls (common with rock faces in alpine environments), avalanches (especially in couloirs), seracs and crevasses, violent storms hitting climbers on exposed mountain faces, altitude effects (dehydration, edema, f ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Jim Donini
James "Jim" Donini (born July 23, 1943) is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for a long history of cutting-edge climbs in Alaska and Patagonia. He was president of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009, and a 1999 recipient of the AAC's Robert and Miriam Underhill Award. Donini first began climbing in the 1960s while serving with the United States Army Special Forces. In 1978 Donini along with George Lowe spent 26 days climbing Latok's unclimbed North Ridge, which Donini has described as the "''most awe inspiring and beautiful mountain cathedral on the planet''". Notable climbs * 1976 ''Torre Egger'' - First Ascent - with John Bragg, and Jay Wilson from the United States, by climbing first to the col between the Egger and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted. * 1978 ''North Ridge'' on Latok I, Karakorum Rang ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
George Henry Lowe
George Henry Lowe III (born August 16, 1944) is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for his alpine style ascents of difficult and infrequently repeated routes, and his development of traditional climbing routes in the Western United States. He pioneered winter ascents in the North American Rockies along with cousins Jeff Lowe (climber), Mike Lowe, and Greg Lowe. He is also known for his technically difficult ascents of mixed climbing faces in the Himalayas including the North Ridge of Latok I (within 200m of the summit) and the first ascent of the East Face of Mount Everest (Kangshung Face), where the "Lowe Buttress" bears his name. Lowe is currently a resident of Colorado. Early life He was raised in Ogden, Utah, and began climbing in 1962 while attending Harvey Mudd College. He finished his undergraduate degree at the University of Utah where he later received a PhD in Physics in 1973. Honors and awards Lowe was the 1990 recipient of the American Alpine Club's Ro ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Michael Kennedy (climber)
Michael Kennedy is an American rock climber, alpinist, photographer, writer and editor. From 1974 to 1998 he was the editor of ''Climbing'' magazine, an American climbing magazine. In March 2009, he took the position of Editor-in-Chief of ''Alpinist'' magazine. His son Hayden Kennedy, also a renowned climber, died in October 2017. Notable climbs * 1977 ''Lowe-Kennedy'', on the north face of Mount Hunter, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA with George Lowe. * 1977 ''Infinite Spur'', on the south face of Mount Foraker, Alaska Range, Alaska, USA with George Lowe. * 1978 ''North Ridge'' on Latok I, Karakorum Range, Pakistan. Attempt with Jim Donini, George Lowe and Jeff Lowe (climber). * 1985 ''Northeast Face'' on Ama Dablam, Nepal. FA of route with Carlos Buhler, Dec 1-7, 1985. * 1994 ''Wall of Shadows'', (Alaska Grade 6, AI6+ 5.9 A4), Mount Hunter, Alaska Range The Alaska Range is a relatively narrow, mountain range in the Southcentral Alaska, southcentral region of the U.S. sta ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Piolets D'Or
The Piolets d'Or (, "Golden Ice Axe") is an annual mountaineering and alpine climbing award organized by the (GHM), and previously with co-founder ''Montagnes Magazine'', since its founding in 1992. Golden ice axes are presented to the annual winners at a weekend awards festival based on their achievements in the previous year. It is considered mountaineering's highest honor and is referred to as the "Oscars of mountaineering". The Piolets have progressed from being a competition-like single-award event (Le Piolet d'Or) into a broader celebration of mountaineering and alpinism, with several awards made (Les Piolets d'Or). After a crisis in 2008, the Charter for the awards was rewritten to focus on the style and innovation of the nominations, respect for the mountain, environment, and future climbing generations, and to increase the independence and transparency of the award process; the official name was also changed to the plural. History At the start of the 1990s, it was di ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
Baintha Brakk
__NOTOC__ Baintha Brakk () or The Ogre is a steep, craggy mountain, high, in the Panmah Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakoram mountain range. It is located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.This region is disputed, and is claimed by India to be an integral part of the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. It is famous for being one of the hardest peaks in the world to climb: twenty-four years elapsed between the first ascent in 1977 and the second in 2001. Location Baintha Brakk rises above the north side of the Biafo Glacier, one of the major glaciers of the central Karakoram. It lies about north of Skardu, the major town of the region, and about north of the roadhead at Askole.''Orographical Sketch Map of the Karakoram'' by Jerzy Wala, 1990. Published by the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Notable features Baintha Brakk is exceptional in its combination of altitude, height above local terrain, and steepness. It is a complex granite tower, steeper and rockier than mos ... [...More Info...] [...Related Items...] OR: [Wikipedia] [Google] [Baidu] |
