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Grès was a French
haute couture (; ; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design. The term ''haute couture'' generally refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the ...
fashion house founded by Madame Grès in 1942. Parfums Grès is the associated perfume house, which still exists, and is now based in
Switzerland Switzerland, officially the Swiss Confederation, is a landlocked country located in west-central Europe. It is bordered by Italy to the south, France to the west, Germany to the north, and Austria and Liechtenstein to the east. Switzerland ...
.


History

Germaine Émilie Krebs (1903–1993), known as Alix Barton and later as " Madame Grès", relaunched her design house under the name Grès in Paris in 1942. Prior to this, she worked as "Alix" or "Alix Grès" during the 1930s. Formally trained as a sculptor, she produced haute couture designs for an array of fashionable women, including the
Duchess of Windsor Wallis, Duchess of Windsor (born Bessie Wallis Warfield, later Spencer and then Simpson; June 19, 1896 – April 24, 1986) was an American socialite and the wife of Prince Edward, Duke of Windsor (former King Edward VIII). Their intenti ...
,
Marlene Dietrich Marie Magdalene "Marlene" DietrichBorn as Maria Magdalena, not Marie Magdalene, according to Dietrich's biography by her daughter, Maria Riva ; however, Dietrich's biography by Charlotte Chandler cites "Marie Magdalene" as her birth name . (, ; ...
,
Greta Garbo Greta Garbo (born Greta Lovisa Gustafsson; 18 September 1905 – 15 April 1990) was a Swedish-American actress and a premier star during Hollywood's Silent film, silent and early Classical Hollywood cinema, golden eras. Regarded as one of the g ...
,
Jacqueline Kennedy Jacqueline Lee Kennedy Onassis ( ; July 28, 1929 – May 19, 1994) was an American writer, book editor, and socialite who served as the first lady of the United States from 1961 to 1963, as the wife of President John F. Kennedy. A popular f ...
, and
Dolores del Río María de los Dolores Asúnsolo y López Negrete (3 August 1904 – 11 April 1983), known professionally as Dolores del Río (), was a Mexican actress. With a career spanning more than 50 years, she is regarded as the first major female Latin Am ...
. Her signature was cut-outs on gowns that made exposed skin part of the design, yet still had a classical, sophisticated feel. She was renowned for being the last of the
haute couture (; ; French for 'high sewing', 'high dressmaking') is the creation of exclusive custom-fitted high-end fashion design. The term ''haute couture'' generally refers to a specific type of upper garment common in Europe during the 16th to the ...
houses to establish a
ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear (RTW)also called ''prêt-à-porter'', or off-the-rack or off-the-peg in casual useis the term for garments sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothing tailored to a partic ...
line, which she called a "prostitution". The name Grès was a partial
anagram An anagram is a word or phrase formed by rearranging the letters of a different word or phrase, typically using all the original letters exactly once. For example, the word ''anagram'' itself can be rearranged into the phrase "nag a ram"; which ...
of her husband's first name and alias. He was Serge Czerefkov, a Russian painter, who left her soon after the house's creation. Grès enjoyed years of critical successes but, after Grès herself sold the business in the 1980s to Yagi Tsucho, a Japanese company, they hired
Lloyd Klein Lloyd David Klein is a French couturier born 15 February 1967 in Canada. His fashion label is Lloyd Klein Couture. Career Klein was born in Montreal, Quebec, Canada, to French parents and was raised in Paris, France.Emili Vesilind (6 December ...
as the artistic director for the entire house supervising 46 licencies between Paris and Japan. At the time,
Klein Klein may refer to: People *Klein (surname) *Klein (musician) Places * Klein (crater), a lunar feature *Klein, Montana, United States * Klein, Texas, United States * Klein (Ohm), a river of Hesse, Germany, tributary of the Ohm * Klein River, a r ...
was offered one of the highest salaries of per month and an annual fee of 12 million FRF. After the death of Madame Grès,
Lloyd Klein Lloyd David Klein is a French couturier born 15 February 1967 in Canada. His fashion label is Lloyd Klein Couture. Career Klein was born in Montreal, Quebec, Canada, to French parents and was raised in Paris, France.Emili Vesilind (6 December ...
left the house to continue his collections in New York. By 2012, the last Grès store in Paris was closed. Some of Grès' work is exhibited at the
Palais Galliera The Palais Galliera, also formally known as the Musée de la Mode de la Ville de Paris (City of Paris Fashion Museum), and formerly known as Musée Galliera, is a museum of fashion and fashion history located at 10, avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie, ...
in Paris.


Style

The Grès house produced many Hellenic, draped dresses. The influence of Grès' sculpting years is very visible.


Parfums Grès

Grès's signature fragrance was ''Cabochard'', created by Bernard Chant, and launched in 1958. , ''Cabochard'' is still being manufactured and retailed. Other perfumes, launched after the sale of the company, include: * ''Cabotine ''(1990) * ''Folie Douce'' (1997) * ''Cabaret'' (2003) * ''Caline'' (2005) * ''Caline Night'' (2006) * ''Sphinx Hommage a Greta Garbo'' ''(a fragrance dedicated to the actress Greta Garbo)''''.''


References


Biography

* Laurence Benaïm, ''Madame Grès'', Editions Assouline, 1999 (in French) * Patricia Mears, ''Madame Grès: Sphinx of Fashion'', Yale University Press, 2008


Further reading

* {{DEFAULTSORT:Gres Clothing brands of France Clothing companies established in 1942 Gres, Madame Gres, Madame Haute couture Parfums Gres French companies established in 1942 Design companies disestablished in 2012 French companies disestablished in 2012