Yosif Buzurtanov () — an
Ingush mountaineer
Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...
and hunter, also called Yosif the Mokhevian, the first person to ascend
Mount Kazbek
Mount Kazbek or Mount Kazbegi, , romanized: ''q'azbegi''; ; ; ; is a dormant stratovolcano and one of the major mountains of the Caucasus Mountains, Caucasus, located in Georgia (country), Georgia, just south of the border with Russia.
Lying ...
in the
Caucasus
The Caucasus () or Caucasia (), is a region spanning Eastern Europe and Western Asia. It is situated between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, comprising parts of Southern Russia, Georgia, Armenia, and Azerbaijan. The Caucasus Mountains, i ...
in the second half of the 18th century. Yosif Buzurtanov was a resident of the medieval village ''(
aul)''
Gveleti (), abode of the Ingush clan Gelatkhoy.
History
Prince Ioane of Georgia, in his manuscript ''Kalmasoba'', mentions Yosif as the first to ascend the mountain peak of
Kazbek
Mount Kazbek or Mount Kazbegi, , romanized: ''q'azbegi''; ; ; ; is a dormant stratovolcano and one of the major mountains of the Caucasus, located in Georgia, just south of the border with Russia.
Lying at 5,054 meters (16,581 ft) above ...
( ka, მყინვარწვერი, tr; ) in the late eighteenth century during the reign of
Heraclius II of Georgia
Heraclius II, also known as Erekle II ( ka, ერეკლე II) and The Little Kakhetian ( ka, პატარა კახი, link=no ; 7 November 1720 or 7 October 1721 Cyril_Toumanoff.html" ;"title="ccording to Cyril Toumanoff">C. Touman ...
.
Member of the in
Pyatigorsk
Pyatigorsk (; Circassian languages, Circassian: Псыхуабэ, ''Psıxwabæ'') is a types of inhabited localities in Russia, city in Stavropol Krai, Russia, located on the Podkumok River, about from the town of Mineralnye Vody, which has an i ...
, associate professor Yakov Frolov, after studying the history of the conquest of Mount Kazbek, asserted that the first climber to the top of mountain was Yosif Buzurtanov. Yakov Frolov conducted a scrupulous survey among the
centenarians
A centenarian is a Human, person who has Ageing, reached the age of 100. Because life expectancy, life expectancies at birth worldwide are well below 100, the term is invariably associated with longevity. The United Nations estimated that there w ...
of various regions adjacent to Kazbek. Residents of the Ingush foothill village of Akhki-Yurt (located in modern-day
Prigorodny district
Prigorodny District (Russian: Пригородный район) is the name of several administrative and municipal districts in Russia:
* Prigorodny District, Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, an administrative and municipal district of the Re ...
) acclaimed that Yosif, a native of the village of
Gveleti, was the first to climb to the top of Mount Kazbek. Famous climber Yagor Kazalikashvili reported in the early 20th century, with reference to the information given by elderly inhabitants of the Kazbek region, that “the pioneer was an Ingush hunter from Gveleti who was looking for the treasure of
Queen Tamara”, a rumor which had long existed among local mountaineers.
The first documented attempts to conquer Mount Kazbek were made by German travelers
Moritz von Engelhardt and
Friedrich Parrot
Johann Jacob Friedrich Wilhelm Parrot (14 October 1791) was a Baltic German naturalist, explorer, and mountaineer, who lived and worked in Tartu, Estonia in what was then the Governorate of Livonia of the Russian Empire. A pioneer of Russian ...
in 1811, but they ended in failure. The next ascent was made in August 1844 by professor
Friedrich Kolenati, who was guided by local Gveletians. But this expedition did not reach the summit either. In 1868, Kazbek was officially conquered by English climbers
Douglas Freshfield
Douglas William Freshfield (27 April 1845 – 9 February 1934) was a British lawyer, mountaineer and author, who edited the ''Alpine Journal ''from 1872 to 1880. He was president of both the Royal Geographical Society and the Alpine Club. He was ...
,
Adolphus Moore, Charles Tucker and French guide
François Devouassoud
François Devouassoud (September 1831 – 1905) was a French mountain guide who made many first ascents in the Alps, notably as guide to Douglas William Freshfield, who claimed that Devouassoud "was the first Alpine guide to carry his ice-axe to th ...
. Success was achieved thanks to both excellent equipment and the fact that they were accompanied by experienced guides from the Gveleti village — Tsogol Buzurtanov (son of Yosif Buzurtanov), Toto Oziev, Anzor Doskhoev and another Gveletian, whose name is unknown. In 1873, Tsogol Buzurtanov again conquered Kazbek. This time with Vladimir Kozmin, the first Russian climber to climb this peak, and 3 Ingush guides from Gveleti, including Tsogol Buzurtanov's son Isak. When Tsogol Buzurtanov was asked who taught him mountaineering techniques, Tsogol confidently answered: ''“My father, who climbed to the top of Bashloam to find the treasure stored there.”''
Tsogols Buzurtanovs had five sons Mussa, Yani, Isak, Inarko and Abzi. In 1901,
Alexander Sipiagin wrote about the Buzurtanov brothers: ''“All the brothers are excellent walkers, and have been to the top of Kazbek; Isaac has already been 4 times. They can make excellent guides.”'' In 1902, the Russian Mountain Society introduced special diplomas and badges for its guides. Among the first seven to whom they were awarded were three of Yosif's grandchildren — Yani, Musa and Isak. In 1944, the Buzurtanovs, like the entire Ingush people, were
deported
Deportation is the expulsion of a person or group of people by a state from its Sovereignty, sovereign territory. The actual definition changes depending on the place and context, and it also changes over time. A person who has been deported or ...
to
Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan, officially the Republic of Kazakhstan, is a landlocked country primarily in Central Asia, with a European Kazakhstan, small portion in Eastern Europe. It borders Russia to the Kazakhstan–Russia border, north and west, China to th ...
and
Central Asia
Central Asia is a region of Asia consisting of Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Uzbekistan. The countries as a group are also colloquially referred to as the "-stans" as all have names ending with the Persian language, Pers ...
. After returning from exile, of all the descendants of the five brothers, except Inarko's son, Yakub, and grandson, Yani-Girey, returned to Gveleti, but didn't live there long, and moved to the
Prigorodny district
Prigorodny District (Russian: Пригородный район) is the name of several administrative and municipal districts in Russia:
* Prigorodny District, Republic of North Ossetia-Alania, an administrative and municipal district of the Re ...
. Thus ended the history of the dynasty of Ingush mountain climbers.
See also
*
Gveleti
Notes
References
Sources
*
*
*
*
*
External links
* {{cite web, url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ljBg1peNso, title=Хроника покорения горы Казбек. Бузуртановы из Гвилети., trans-title=Chronicle of the conquest of Mount Kazbek. Buzurtanovs from Gvileti., language=ru, publisher=НТРК «Ингушетия»., series="Заманхо" №1
History of Ingushetia
Ingush people