Yajin (), also known as shijian er (), is a type of Chinese accessory which is placed at the lapels of Chinese clothing (robes and
jackets
A jacket is a garment for the upper body, usually extending below the hips. A jacket typically has sleeves and fastens in the front or slightly on the side. Jackets without sleeves are vests. A jacket is generally lighter, tighter-fitting, and l ...
); they would typically hanged down on the right side (sometimes at the front depending on the clothing closure) of the chest area in order to press on the clothing. The yajin appeared as early as the
Tang dynasty
The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
and became popular in the
Ming
The Ming dynasty, officially the Great Ming, was an imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming was the last imperial dynasty of China ruled by the Han people, t ...
and
Qing
The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing, was a Manchu-led Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China and an early modern empire in East Asia. The last imperial dynasty in Chinese history, the Qing dynasty was preceded by the ...
dynasties. There are various styles of yajin, including a dangling pendant-style (which is similar to
jinbu or
tassel
A tassel is a finishing feature in fabric and clothing decoration. It is a universal ornament that is seen in varying versions in many cultures around the globe.
History and use
In the Hebrew Bible, the Lord spoke to Moses instructing him to ...
s in style) and a bracelet-style, known as ().
Yajin can also be used as accessories on the
cheongsam
''Cheongsam'' (, ), also known as the ''qipao'' () and sometimes referred to as the mandarin gown, is a Chinese dress worn by women which takes inspiration from the , the ethnic clothing of the Manchu people. The cheongsam is most often seen ...
, where it is tied on the
pankou knots.
Construction and design
Pendant-style yajin
The pendant-style yajin may consist of string of beads, metal chains, and pendants (including precious stones,
yupei
Yupei () is a generic term for jade pendants. Yupei were popular even before Confucius was born. Jade culture is an important component of Chinese culture, reflecting both the material and spiritual culture. Jade is deeply ingrained in Chinese cu ...
-like materials, or metal
filigree
Filigree (also less commonly spelled ''filagree'', and formerly written ''filigrann'' or ''filigrene'') is a form of intricate metalwork used in jewellery and other small forms of metalwork.
In jewellery, it is usually of gold and silver, m ...
) which comes in various shapes such as flowers, animals, and auspicious motifs/ themes/ Chinese characters. It may also include
tassel
A tassel is a finishing feature in fabric and clothing decoration. It is a universal ornament that is seen in varying versions in many cultures around the globe.
History and use
In the Hebrew Bible, the Lord spoke to Moses instructing him to ...
s. In the late Qing, people sometimes used old silver coins to make their yajin.
In Qing dynasty,
Han Chinese
The Han Chinese, alternatively the Han people, are an East Asian people, East Asian ethnic group native to Greater China. With a global population of over 1.4 billion, the Han Chinese are the list of contemporary ethnic groups, world's la ...
women also wore pendant-like charms made of diverse materials (such as jade, amber, gold) at the top button on the side of their
ao jackets.
They also wore other forms of pendants, such as pendants made of metal filigree in the shape of
potpourri
Potpourri ( ) is a mixture of dried, naturally fragrant plant materials used to provide a gentle natural scent, commonly in residential settings. It is often placed in a decorative bowl.
Etymology
The word "potpourri" comes into English from ...
container which would be filled with fragrant herbs and long silver pendants with small silver charms which were filled with bells which would frightened evil spirits away when they tickled as they wore.
They would also hang
purses on the top button of their jacket.
File:The Qing Dynasty Empress XiaoQuan.JPG, Empress Xiaoquancheng
Empress Xiaoquancheng (24 March 1808 – 13 February 1840), of the Manchu Bordered Yellow Banner Niohuru clan, was a posthumous name bestowed on the wife and second empress consort of Mianning, the Daoguang Emperor. She was empress consort of ...
Shibazi-style yajin
A ' is a type of 18-beads
bracelet
A bracelet is an article of jewellery that is worn around the wrist. Bracelets may serve different uses, such as being worn as an ornament. When worn as ornaments, bracelets may have a supportive function to hold other items of decoration, ...
which originated from the
japamala
A japamala, , or simply Japay mala (; , meaning 'garland') is a loop of prayer beads commonly used in Indian religions such as Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Sikhism. It is used for counting recitations ('' japa'') of mantras, prayers or other ...
and could also be used as a form of yajin.
Shibazi sometimes have hanging buckles; they would be hung on the right lapels of the clothing or could be worn around the wrist like a regular bracelet.
There were no strict regulations on its wearing etiquette.
File:《容妃和卓氏像》.jpg, Fragrant Concubine (after Giuseppe Castiglione)
File:《载湉读书像》.jpg, Guangxu Emperor
The Guangxu Emperor (14 August 1871 – 14 November 1908), also known by his temple name Emperor Dezong of Qing, personal name Zaitian, was the tenth Emperor of China, emperor of the Qing dynasty, and the ninth Qing emperor to rule over China ...
in informal robes
File:Concubine Xin.JPG, First Class Female Attendant Xin
File:Empress-Dowager-Cixi1.jpg, Empress Dowager Cixi
Empress Dowager Cixi ( ; 29 November 1835 – 15 November 1908) was a Manchu noblewoman of the Yehe Nara clan who effectively but periodically controlled the Chinese government in the late Qing dynasty as empress dowager and regent for almost 50 ...
by Hubert Vos
File:The Portrait of the Qing Dynasty Cixi Imperial Dowager Empress of China by an Imperial Painter 3.JPG, Empress Dowager Cixi
Empress Dowager Cixi ( ; 29 November 1835 – 15 November 1908) was a Manchu noblewoman of the Yehe Nara clan who effectively but periodically controlled the Chinese government in the late Qing dynasty as empress dowager and regent for almost 50 ...
by Katharine Carl
File:A Cantonese lady, 1861-1864 (Vintage.es).jpg, A Cantonese lady wearing -style yajin on her ao jacket, 1861–1864
Depictions and media
Yajin are sometimes depicted in
Chinese television drama
Chinese television dramas (), sometimes colloquially known as C-dramas, are Chinese-language television drama series originating from mainland China, sometimes including co-productions with the Greater China region. Popular drama series genres in ...
, especially Qing dynasty Court drama:
*
Nothing Gold Can Stay (2017)
*
Ruyi's Royal Love in the Palace
''Ruyi's Royal Love in the Palace'' () is a 2018 Chinese television series based on the novel ''Inner Palace: The Legend of Ruyi'' by Liu Lianzi. Starring Zhou Xun and Wallace Huo, it chronicles the marital relationship between the Qianlong Emp ...
(2018)
*
Story of Yanxi Palace
''Story of Yanxi Palace'' () is a 2018 Chinese television series recounting the struggles of a palace maid in the court of the Qianlong Emperor. It was created by Yu Zheng, with original screenplay written by Zhou Mo, and later developed into a ...
(2018)
Similar items
*
Jinbu - A Chinese waist accessory used to press clothing down; it is an ensemble of
yupei
Yupei () is a generic term for jade pendants. Yupei were popular even before Confucius was born. Jade culture is an important component of Chinese culture, reflecting both the material and spiritual culture. Jade is deeply ingrained in Chinese cu ...
(jade pendants)
*
Norigae - a Korean clothing accessory
See also
*
Qizhuang
(), also known as () and commonly referred as Manchu clothing in English, is the traditional clothing of the Manchu people. in the broad sense refers to the clothing system of the Manchu people, which includes their whole system of attire use ...
*
Ruqun
(;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment ...
*
Chaozhu (Court necklace)
Chaozhu (), also known as Court necklace and Mandarin necklaces in English, is a type of necklace worn as an essential element of the Qing dynasty Court clothing uniform (mostly worn in the formal and semi-formal court attire). Chaozhu were worn ...
*
Longhua (collar)
Longhua (龍華) were white, scarf-like collars worn by Manchu women in the early to mid-Qing dynasty. It was worn all year around when robes without collar were worn.
History
Robes and jackets in the Qing dynasty were generally round-necked. C ...
*
Hanfu accessories
References
{{Types of Han Chinese clothing
Chinese traditional clothing
Chinese art