Vorderes Raubschloss
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The Frienstein, also called the Vorderes Raubschloss, is a rock formation, about 130 metres high, in
Saxon Switzerland Saxon Switzerland (, ) is a hilly climbing area and national park in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains. It is located around the Elbe valley south-east of Dresden in Saxony, Germany, adjoining Bohemian Switzerland in the Czech Republic. Toge ...
. It lies on the northern slopes of the
Großer Winterberg Großer Winterberg is a mountain of Saxony, southeastern Germany. It is the second highest mountain of the Saxon Switzerland and is located on the border between Germany and the Czech Republic The Czech Republic, also known as Czechia, and ...
in the
Affensteine The Affensteine are a long chain of deeply fissured rocks in the Elbe Sandstone Mountains that are located east of Bad Schandau in the German region of Saxon Switzerland. They are bounded to the north by the Kirnitzsch valley, to the south by ...
rocks. On the rock there was once a
watchtower A watchtower or guardtower (also spelt watch tower, guard tower) is a type of military/paramilitary or policiary tower used for guarding an area. Sometimes fortified, and armed with heavy weaponry, especially historically, the structures are ...
of the Barony of Wildenstein. Today the Frienstein is a popular
climbing peak A climbing peak () may refer to a mountain or hill peak or a rock formation that has to be ascended by climbing. The term is common in Germany where it is specifically used of free-standing rock formations in the climbing regions of Saxon Switzerlan ...
.


History

Around 1410 a watchtower was erected on the Frienstein as a signal station by the Barony of Wildenstein that was owned by the family of
Berka of Dubá Berka of Dubá () was a cadet branch of a Bohemian noble family of Lords of Dubá established by Hynek Berka of Dubá (1249–1306). It held estates in what is today the Czech Republic and Saxony in Germany throughout the Middle Ages. Ancestors ...
. By this means Frienstein could make contact with the surrounding watchtowers on the Winterstein, the Neuer Wildenstein and the ''Alter Wildenstein''. In 1451, the Frienstein, together with the rest of the barony, went to the
House of Wettin The House of Wettin () was a dynasty which included Saxon monarch, kings, Prince Elector, prince-electors, dukes, and counts, who once ruled territories in the present-day German federated states of Saxony, Saxony-Anhalt and Thuringia. The dynas ...
and thus to the
Electorate of Saxony The Electorate of Saxony, also known as Electoral Saxony ( or ), was a territory of the Holy Roman Empire from 1356 to 1806 initially centred on Wittenberg that came to include areas around the cities of Dresden, Leipzig and Chemnitz. It was a ...
. In the period that followed, robber knights lodged on the Frienstein, even in 1479 one of their workers conceded that ''"item near Frienstein is a trap..., where those who are caught are tormented"'' (''item beym Freynstein ist eyn loch ..., do man die gefangen eynfurt zu peynigen''). On the first cartographic record in Saxony, a map dating to 1592 by Matthias Oeder, the rock is marked as ''Freystein''. On the present-day climbing route called the ''Alter Weg'' ("Old Way"), one can still see the rebates and steps cut out of the rock that was once used to climb it. Even on the summit area, there are traces of the watchtower in the shape of rebates for anchoring a wooden observation post. On the eastern side at the foot of the rock is the Ida Grotto (''Idagrotte''), a large crevice and bedding cave that is nowadays a popular destination. It can only be reached over a narrow band of rock. In the grotto, there are still traces of its medieval use as a living area. Because of its size and the fact that it is easy to get to, the Ida Grotto is a popular goal for ''Boofer''s, a Saxon term for hikers who sleep out in the open. However, in recent years, there have been repeated cases of hikers who have fallen and been seriously injured or killed due to being intoxicated with alcohol.''Gipfelbuch''.
Accessed on 24 Apr 2011.


Climbing peak

The Frienstein is a famous climbing peak in the
Saxon Switzerland Climbing Region Saxon Switzerland () is the largest and one of the best-known rock climbing regions in Germany, located in the Free State of Saxony. The region is largely coterminous with the natural region of the same name, Saxon Switzerland, but extends well ...
, but its summit is not accessible to hikers and walkers. The first recreational ascent of the mountain took place in 1873, although it had been conquered before with the help of artificial aids. Today's route, known as the ''Alter Weg'' is classified as
climbing grade Many climbing routes have grades for the technical difficulty, and in some cases for the risks, of the route. The first ascensionist can suggest a grade but it will be amended for the ''consensus view'' of subsequent ascents. While many cou ...
III. There are also more challenging routes up to grade XIb. Climbing history was written on the ''Königshangel'' when grade IX was reached for the first time in Saxon Switzerland. In 1965, it was successfully climbed for the first time by Fritz Eske after several unsuccessful attempts by other noteworthy climbers.


References


Sources

*Peter Rölke (publ.): ''Wander- & Naturführer Sächsische Schweiz'', Vol. 1, Verlag Rölke, Dresden 1999,


External links


The Frienstein at the rock information pages of the German Alpine Club
{{in lang, de Rock formations of Saxon Switzerland Climbing areas of Germany Mountains of Saxon Switzerland