Vogue Paris

''Vogue France'' (stylised in all caps) is the French edition of '' Vogue'' magazine, formerly called ''Vogue Paris'' from its inception until 2021. The magazine started publication in 1920 and has since been regarded as one of the top fashion publications.

History

1920–54

The French edition of ''Vogue'' was first issued on 15 June 1920, the first editor-in-chief being Cosette de Brunhoff (1886–1964). Her brother, (1892–1958) took over and was editor-in-chief from 1929 until 1954. Duchess Solange d'Ayen (1898–1976) was a fashion editor of ''Vogue'' from the late 1920s until the early 1940s.

Under Edmonde Charles-Roux (1954–66)

Edmonde Charles-Roux (1920–2016), who had previously worked at ''Elle'' and '' France-Soir'', became the magazine's editor-in-chief in 1954.Philips, Ian
"The Look that shocked the world"
''The Independent'' (11 February 1997). Charles-Roux was a great supporter of Christian Dior's " New Look", of which she later said, "It signalled that we could laugh again - that we could be provocative again, and wear things that would grab people's attention in the street." In August 1956, the magazine issued a special ready-to-wear (''prêt-à-porter'') issue, signaling a shift in fashion's focus from couture production.

She was dismissed from ''Vogue'' in 1966, as the result of a conflict for wanting to place black model Donyale Luna on the cover of the magazine. When later asked about her departure, Charles-Roux refused to confirm or deny this account. A black model on the cover of French Vogue did not come until 1988 when Naomi Campbell was featured on the cover.

1968–2000: Crescent, Pringle, and Buck

Francine Crescent (1933–2008), whose editorship would later be described as prescient,Furniss, Jo-Ann
"The image-maker"
''The Independent'' (22 March 2003). daring,Pitman, Joanna. "The man with ad extras". ''The Times'' (5 February 2002). and courageous,Pitman, Joanna
"Bonfire of the vanities"
. ''The Times'' (23 April 2003). took the helm of French ''Vogue'' in 1968. Under her leadership, the magazine became the global leader in fashion photography.Pitman, Joanna. "Non-stop erotic cabaret". ''The Times'' (8 May 2001). Crescent gave Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, the magazine's two most influential photographers, complete creative control over their work. During the 1970s, Bourdin and Newton competed to push the envelope of erotic and decadent photography; the "prone and open-mouthed girls of Bourdin" were pitted against the "dark, stiletto-heeled, S&M sirens of Newton". At times, Bourdin's work was so scandalous that Crescent "laid her job on the line" to preserve his artistic independence. The two photographers greatly influenced the late-20th-century image of womanhood and were among the first to realize the importance of image, as opposed to product, in stimulating consumption. Through the power photography within fashion both Bourdin and Newton were able to create new avenues within the world of fashion as well as advance the image of Vogue.

By the late 1980s, however, Newton and Bourdin's star power had faded, and the magazine was "stuck in a rut". Colombe Pringle replaced Crescent as the magazine's editor-in-chief in 1987. Under Pringle's watch, the magazine recruited new photographers such as Peter Lindbergh (1944–2019) and Steven Meisel, who developed their signature styles in the magazine's pages.Jobey, Liz. "A woman of taste and influence". ''The Independent'' (8 May 1994). Even still, the magazine struggled, remaining dull and heavily reliant on foreign stories.Muir, Kate. "An American in Paris fashion". ''The Times'' (4 May 1994). When Pringle left the magazine in 1994, word spread that her resignation had been forced.Daswani, Kavita. "Out of vogue". ''South China Morning Post'' (4 February 1996).

Joan Juliet Buck, an American, was named Pringle's successor effective 1 June 1994."French Vogue names editor"
. ''The New York Times'' (11 April 1994). Her selection was described by ''The New York Times'' as an indication that Conde Nast intended to "modernize the magazine and expand its scope" from its circulation of 80,000. Buck's first two years as editor-in-chief were extremely controversial; many employees resigned or were fired, including the magazine's publishing director and most of its top editors."How two Americans shook up French 'Vogue'". CNN Business Unusual (8 May 1999). Transcript via LexisNexis. Though rumors circulated in 1996 that the magazine was on the verge of a shutdown, Buck persevered; during her editorship, the magazine's circulation ultimately increased 40 percent. Horyn, Cathy
"Front row: New home for the best-dressed list? De Niro's dresser now has a store -- Editor of French Vogue calls it quits."
''The New York Times (12 December 2000). Buck remade the magazine in her own cerebral image, tripling the amount of text in the magazine and devoting special issues to art, music, literature, and science. Juliet Buck announced her decision to leave the magazine in December 2000, after her return from a two-month leave of absence. The ''Sydney Morning Herald'' later compared her departure, which took place during Milan's fashion week, to the firing of a football coach during a championship game.Wilson, Catherine. "Strictly black and white". ''Sydney Morning Herald'' (17 November 2001). Carine Roitfeld, who had been the magazine's creative director, was named as Buck's successor the next April.Trebay, Guy
"She's the face of fashion, and its prophet"
. ''The New York Times'' (16 April 2002).

Under Carine Roitfeld (2001–2011)

Roitfeld aimed to restore the magazine's place as a leader in fashion journalism (the magazine "hadn't been so good" since the 1980s, she said) and to estoreits French identity. Her appointment, which coincided with the ascendance of young designers at several of the most important Paris fashion houses, "brought a youthful energy" to the magazine.Healy, Murray
"We're French! We smoke, we show flesh, we have a lot of freedom"
. ''The Observer'' (25 February 2007). By April 2002, she had rid the magazine of foreign staffers, making it "all French for the first time in many years". The magazine also underwent a redesign by the Paris-based design firm M/M (Paris)."M/M make Vogue human"
. '' Creative Review'' (2 June 2003). It aimed to make the title appear more hand-crafted and organic, particularly through the use of collage and hand-drawn fonts. Continuity was created through the use of loose theming for each issue, smooth pacing, and visual uniformity in the shopping pages.

The magazine's aesthetic evolved to resemble Roitfeld's (that is, "svelte, tough, luxurious, and wholeheartedly in love with dangling-cigarette, bare-chested fashion").Larocca, Amy
"The anti-Anna"
. ''New York Magazine'' (25 February 2008). Roitfeld has periodically drawn criticism for the magazine's use of sexuality and humor, which she employs to disrupt fashion's conservatism and pretension. Roitfeld's ''Vogue'' is unabashedly elitist, "unconcerned with making fashion wearable or accessible to its readers". Models, not actresses promoting movies, appear on its cover. Its party pages focus on the magazine's own staff, particularly Roitfeld and her daughter Julia Restoin Roitfeld. Its regular guest-editorships are given to it-girls like Kate Moss, Sofia Coppola, and Charlotte Gainsbourg. According to ''The Guardian'', "what distinguishes French Vogue is its natural assumption that the reader must have heard of these beautiful people already. And if we haven't? The implication is that that's our misfortune, and the editors aren't about to busy themselves helping us out."Patrick O'Connor. "Un bon anniversaire". ''The Guardian'' (4 December 1995). Advertising revenue rose 60 percent in 2005, resulting in the best year for ad sales since the mid-1980s. On 17 December 2010, Carine announced her departure from ''Vogue Paris'' effective 31 January 2011.

Under Emmanuelle Alt (2011–2021)

On 7 January 2011, Emmanuelle Alt, who had worked at the magazine as it's fashion director since 2000 was announced as the new editor-in-chief. Under Alt the publication was simplified, the magazine was redesigned to eliminate "cluttered layouts and typography" along with the introduction of more feature articles. Her appointment was seen as the "safe" choice with The New York Times stating that it did not look like Condé Nast executives were looking for a change to the publication.

Valentina Sampaio was featured on the March 2017 cover and became the first transgender model to be featured on the cover of an edition of Vogue.

Alt was dismissed from her role as editor-in-chief in May 2021, this followed the firing of multiple high-profile Condé Nast staff members.

Under Eugénie Trochu and rebranding (2021–2024)

Eugénie Trochu was appointed as the Head of Editorial Content for Vogue Paris on 6 September 2021. The first issue under her leadership was November 2021 featuring Aya Nakamura on the cover. This was also the first issue of the magazine to be branded as ''Vogue France'' after 101 years as ''Vogue Paris''.

Under Claire Thomson-Jonville (2025–present)

After overseeing the December 2024/January 2025 issue Claire Thomson-Jonville was appointed as the magazines Head of Editorial Content following Trochus departure. Under her leadership the magazine has been redesigned and in February Alastair McKimm (ex-editor-in-chief of '' i-D'') was appointed as the magazines Fashion and Image Director-at-Large.

The first ''Vogue France Wellness'' retreat will occur in June 2025 hosted by Thomson-Jonville and Deepak Chopra, Vogue called the three day retreat 'A transformative journey to awaken your body, empower your mind and nourish your heart guided by Vogue France'''.'' Speakers at the event will include Jessie Inchauspé and Léna Mahfouf. Thomson-Jonville previously ran the ''Out of State'' wellness retreats.

Circulation

Editors

Editions

* ''Vogue Collections'' (since 2005)
* ''Vogue Beauté'' (from 1951 to 1952; from 1983 till closure)
* ''Vogue Décoration'' (from 1985 to 1992)
* ''Vogue Hommes'' (from 1973 to 1996; 2000 to 2022)
* ''Vogue Sport'' (1983 to 1986)

See also

* List of ''Vogue France'' cover models
* List of ''Vogue France'' guest editors
* Vogue World 2024

References

External links

''Vogue Paris''''Vogue Paris'' in English

*
* Digitized issues o
''Vogue Paris''
in Gallica, the digital library of the BnF.

{{Vogue magazines

1920 establishments in France
Condé Nast magazines
French-language magazines
Monthly magazines published in France
Women's magazines published in France
Magazines established in 1920
Magazines published in Paris
Women's fashion magazines
France
French fashion
Vogue France